Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

First of all, I believe it was KAT who told us about the 303. THANKS!!!!

I went by my local marine shop today and picked some up. Dear god it really helps the rubber a TON. Already feels much more pliable and rejuvenated. So there's that.

Second, The Mother's headlight Powerball restoration kit is fracking awesome.

It took me about 15-20 minutes from opening the box and my lights were REALLY clouded and yellow. They are absolutely smooth and clear minus some deeper road dings. I just wish there was a great UV sealer that would work now.

I'm keeping my new set of lights wrapped up until I absolutely can't restore this pair any longer. They look great!

Here are some picks along with my RR treatment a year later (after washing only with no product ever applied since RR application).

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_2.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_5.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_6.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_1.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_3.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_4.jpg

I recommend ALL 3 of these products very highly. If you have questions, just ask. I also updated KAT's thread on the RR.

:thumbup: Amazin' stuff that 303!....I think I once said I wanted to dunk my entire truck in it! :laugho:

So glad to hear such good reports on the R/R, that's the way it was supposed to go! :thumbup:

Wow, you don't even have any crazing or that weird lightly crackled looking area up top of the horn.....both mine do, but it must be sub-surface, cuz nothin' I tried even touched it. I just picked up a used headlight and it looks like yours...perfect up by the horn area, like new, and so is the rest of it.

Lookin' sharp!

What's 303? Missed that one. Thx

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Originally Posted by blacksambo

What's 303? Missed that one. Thx

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Amazing stuff for rejuvenating rubber and plastic. It's got a SPF of 40, and is used a lot in the marine industry/boating. It's white liquid stuff, totally non-toxic, no smell, easy to use, amazing what it does for rubber & plastic. I use it on painted metal also. Have done almost my entire engine bay in it. Check out the pics in my thread on how I use it to clean and restore the old, sun-baked roof racks I recondition.
Can get it at RV and marine places, and Amazon too.

http://www.303products.com/shop303/i...protectant.cfm

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...&highlight=303

Can buy it at RV and marine places, and Amazon has it too.

I'm pretty amazed at how well the powerball bit worked. It's small enough I was able to get in around the horn really well. I've tried this twice with other kits and didn't even get close to this. They look new! There was heavy crazing and yellowing all over except the very bottom edge of the assembly. That drill and buffing sponge approach really made short work of it!

KAT, do you follow the directions and wipe the 303 totally dry, or do you just let it soak into the rub er parts?

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Originally Posted by technocoy

KAT do you just rub er parts?

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:laughing:.:laughing:.:rotate:.:laughing:. :laughing:

Dub....> "bad boy bad boy whatcha goin do when they come for you..."

On the plastic and rubber parts of the rack I spray it on and let it sit/soak for a long time, on the towers, end caps and flaps I usually do it overnight. It gets kind of dried up but I spray it again lightly the next day, then start working it with a rough shop rag. Rubbing really REALLY hard takes off the oxidation & crude off the plastic (including the nasty stuff inside the end caps).

By the time I'm satisfied with the dry oxidized layer being removed, they are basically "dry" so no further "wiping dry" is necessary. And I can tell they've absorbed a ton of the 303 because they have a totally different moist look, so I like to leave them that way, not rubbing them any dryer. And they're not sticky or tacky so it works fine.

I just lightly wipe the aluminum cross members after I've washed them. It leaves finger prints on metal surfaces like these, so I end up using a rag to grab and pack the cross members.

Same with the plastic & rubber engine bay bits...just wipe down with the 303 damp rag, and leave 'em that way.

I think the "wipe dry" instructions MAY be so it doesn't collect as much dust...I can see people complaining to them about that.

So many openings, so little time...:bwgy:

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Originally Posted by Ldub

:laughing:.:laughing:.:rotate:.:laughing:. :laughing:

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Damn, that's what I get for posting from my phone!!! Dub you're trouble, man. "paraphrasing" me like a politician!!!!
:bwgy::laughing:

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Originally Posted by VX KAT

Dub....> "bad boy bad boy whatcha goin do when they come for you..."

On the plastic and rubber parts of the rack I spray it on and let it sit/soak for a long time, on the towers, end caps and flaps I usually do it overnight. It gets kind of dried up but I spray it again lightly the next day, then start working it with a rough shop rag. Rubbing really REALLY hard takes off the oxidation & crude off the plastic (including the nasty stuff inside the end caps).

By the time I'm satisfied with the dry oxidized layer being removed, they are basically "dry" so no further "wiping dry" is necessary. And I can tell they've absorbed a ton of the 303 because they have a totally different moist look, so I like to leave them that way, not rubbing them any dryer. And they're not sticky or tacky so it works fine.

I just lightly wipe the aluminum cross members after I've washed them. It leaves finger prints on metal surfaces like these, so I end up using a rag to grab and pack the cross members.

Same with the plastic & rubber engine bay bits...just wipe down with the 303 damp rag, and leave 'em that way.

I think the "wipe dry" instructions MAY be so it doesn't collect as much dust...I can see people complaining to them about that.

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Thanks KAT, good info. I'm also sorry to have dragged you into a conversation that is more than likely going to draw out a lot of comedy over the next little but here. HAHAHAHA.

I'm going to "soak all my rubber bits" now. :winkgray:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by technocoy

Damn, that's what I get for posting from my phone!!! Dub you're trouble, man. "paraphrasing" me like a politician!!!!
:bwgy::laughing:

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:laughing:...I don't really serve any other purpose on the planet.

Troublemaker is the only job description that's ever fit so well.

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Originally Posted by Ldub

:laughing:...I don't really serve any other purpose on the planet.

Troublemaker is the only job description that's ever fit so well.

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Some people make due...some make excuses...OTHERS...trouble:p

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Originally Posted by Scott Harness

Some people make due...some make excuses...OTHERS...trouble:p

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I do what I can widdit...:naughty:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ldub

:laughing:...I don't really serve any other purpose on the planet.

Troublemaker is the only job description that's ever fit so well.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott Harness

Some people make due...some make excuses...OTHERS...trouble:p

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ldub

I do what I can widdit...:naughty:

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:laugho::laugho:..:thumbup::thumbup:

I tried the Mother's headlight kit today and here are my results:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/Lighs_off.jpg

You can see the difference between the treated side and the untreated side.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/lights_on.jpg

Here is shot lights on.

Is it perfect, no. It is a big improvement though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by technocoy

I just wish there was a great UV sealer that would work now.

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I picked up a bottle of this (I think it was this - don't have it in front of me) at Auto Zone last weekend. They only had one bottle, right beside all the various headlight restoration products. I slathered it on my recently polished out headlights. We'll see if they stay shiney and clear longer than without the sealant.

Click me
http://bluemagicusa.com/bm_images/he...lenssealer.png

According to the manufacturer:

http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/bl...t_lens_sealer/

Quote:

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Headlight Lens Sealer

* For new & restored lenses

* Keeps lens clear & bright

* Protects lens from UV rays

* Seals out dirt & grime

* Prevents yellowing & hazing

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This may be the Headlight Sunblock everyone has been looking for.

I used the Mother's a few weeks ago and it worked great. FYI, the faster or more powerful the drill the better your results will be. I initially tried it with a 12v Craftsman cordless and discovered it wasn't working very well. I went to a more powerful industrial corded one and then got the results I was looking for. An 18v cordless may be powerful enough,though. idk.
I'll be trying the 303 next week in hopes it will last longer than the Back to Black I've been using for the past few years.

I just picked up some of the BlueMagic Headlight Lens Sealer at my local AutoZone, $6.99. :thumbup: Going to apply it to all our other headlights, but still have to figure out what I'm going to do about my StonGard covers........keep or remove...keep or remove...keep or remove.....:rollo:

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Originally Posted by raider

I used the Mother's a few weeks ago and it worked great. FYI, the faster or more powerful the drill the better your results will be. I initially tried it with a 12v Craftsman cordless and discovered it wasn't working very well. I went to a more powerful industrial corded one and then got the results I was looking for. An 18v cordless may be powerful enough,though. idk.
I'll be trying the 303 next week in hopes it will last longer than the Back to Black I've been using for the past few years.

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I think others found 303 basically washed off in the rain also, when it was on cladding. (On rubber, it's pretty long lasting).
Here's some good posts on 303:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...7&postcount=66

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...0&postcount=67

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...&postcount=125
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...&postcount=132

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Originally Posted by samneil2000

I picked up a bottle of this (I think it was this - don't have it in front of me) at Auto Zone last weekend. They only had one bottle, right beside all the various headlight restoration products. I slathered it on my recently polished out headlights. We'll see if they stay shiney and clear longer than without the sealant.

Click me
http://bluemagicusa.com/bm_images/he...lenssealer.png

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Very interesting. I may go check out my local Autozone/Advance and see if they have this.

Raider... I used my 18v drill and it definitely made easy work of it, but you are right, once you get the polish worked into the buffer you can really smooth em out quick.

Really...some 2000 grit sand paper and careful rubbing will bring them almost all the way back. Then add your powerball and plastic polish for the final shine. Try it, it works. Did it on a VX from Atlanta, couldn't be any worse.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blacksambo

Really...some 2000 grit sand paper and careful rubbing will bring them almost all the way back. Then add your powerball and plastic polish for the final shine. Try it, it works. Did it on a VX from Atlanta, couldn't be any worse.

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Hmmm, ironically that is what a product called "BrightEyes Headlight Restorer" uses per Step 1 of their instructions-- starting with 1000 grit sandpaper (wetsanding), and then graduating to 2000 grit sandpaper (wetsanding). Step 2 is to apply a clarifying agent, and finally Step 3 is to apply a protective clear coating. There is no use of a power drill or buffing pads with the product; everything is done by hand.

The "BrightEyes Headlight Restorer" kit (for 1-vehicle) sells for $20 USD. See www.AutoCosmeticProducts.com. They are the same people that sell the GM-approved "TS-1" cladding restorer baby-wipes.

RAIDER--- As VX-KAT indicated, the 303 product is best for rubber products like tires, not cladding. When used on cladding, the 303 product merely washes off during the first rain/car wash.

"Refinish Restorer" is a topical cladding treatment, but has been known to produce a brittle varnish-like hard resin coating that may be subseptible to flaking/chipping when abrased by tree branches or from frontal debris and rock chips.

"ShowRoom New Dye" is a colored dye for cladding available in 2 colors (Black, Gray). It is a staining/re-coloring dye and will alter the OEM color of the cladding.

"TS-1" is a topical cladding restoration treatment that is GM-approved for the Chevy Avalanche cladding (just like VX cladding). It is essentially the same as using ArmorAll/Back-To-Black topical treatment products, but the "TS-1" will last 90 days (+/-) before retreatment is necessary. "TS-1" is applied using pre-treated disposable baby-wipes and comes in sealed pouches.

:bgwb:

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Originally Posted by Riff Raff

"ShowRoom New Dye" is a colored dye for our cladding and is available in 3 colors (Black, Charcoal/Dark Gray, Light Gray).

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Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.

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Originally Posted by VX KAT

Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.

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Whoopsy, I thought I had read somewhere on this forum that 3 colors were available. However; after clearing the cobwebs, I now remember YOU had created a custom half-n-half mixture using both 1-part Black + 1-part Gray to create a Charcoal/Dark Gray mixture. My bad.

:bgwb:

The person that sold me my VX gave me a bottle of 303. The cladding on mine looks immaculate. The guy said he used it once every couple months. It seems really great. I'll be using myself soon.

As far as headlight resto goes, mine need it very badly. Should I try the Powerball? Is there any disassembly of the headlight lenses required to resto?

Depends on where the damage is. Most crazing / scratches / hazing / yellowing are caused by oxidation on the exterior surface of the headlight, BUT if you have cracks or punctures in the seal you could also have condensation and other contaminants on the inside. Most VX's seem to develop the exterior issues over time, so I'd start by cleaning and polishing the exterior, then see where you are at that point.

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Originally Posted by H3_VX

The person that sold me my VX gave me a bottle of 303. The cladding on mine looks immaculate. The guy said he used it once every couple months. It seems really great. I'll be using myself soon.

As far as headlight resto goes, mine need it very badly. Should I try the Powerball? Is there any disassembly of the headlight lenses required to resto?

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RickOKC did some good testing of products on the cladding, one was 303, here's his post with the findings (post #19 above also listed it).
Some of us think if you wipe the cladding dry as directed, AND let the 303 treated cladding sit overnight, less dust will be attracted to it, as it seems to dry a bit more and stick less. (303 will NOT be sticky at any point on your cladding.)
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...7&postcount=66
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...0&postcount=67

No disassembly of headlight required, just put double to triple tape around the edges so you don't buff right through it and hit your paint. If you do wet sanding, the water mixture running down always caused my tape to want to come undone, but keep reapplying tape if you have too....it's too easy to have the drill jump and hit the paint. I bought the 3" wide painter's tape. I actually think DUCT tape would be better since it's stickier and thicker.

I wouldn't use duct tape on paint, it's way to sticky and will leave all kinds of hard to get off residue on the paint. Painter's tape is the way to go for automotive stuff.

Technocoy, all I can say is... I love you.... :heart:

My headlights are going to get extra special attention soon!

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Originally Posted by VX KAT

Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.

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thanks for helping...

Well, here's MY experience w/303. My 2001 VX is a two-owner, "high desert", garage-kept VX w/80K miles. Original owner used 303 on the cladding RELIGIOUSLY every 3-6 months; I've kept up that regimen over the 2.5 years I've owned it. Last Sunday I replaced the RR and Rear "underdoor" cladding with new (thanks, Merlin!) - I was VERY concerned about color differences between the existing cladding and the new cladding. There was ZERO difference between the two - you literally can NOT see a color/shading difference between the old and the new! Put me down as a serious proponent of 303...

That's a great perspective, Ganz!

Earlier, somewhere here, I commented that I thought 303 treatment made my cladding look "new - although I had no real frame of reference." I dunno, to me it just makes it look "right" - dark & satiny, not greasy and shiny.

Just to follow up on the 303, I've used it twice so far and i've noticed some streaking once i'm finished. Am I not using enough? Am I not drying it quickly enough or drying too quickly? It does look sweet after I wipe it off, but then a few minutes later it has kind of a hazy look for a day or two. My cladding still loooks almost new, I just want to know if I should be applying it differently. FYI, I'm using Microfiber towels to wipe and dry. I usually use 3 for the entire job just so I'm not using a dirty towel. I also wash the entire car with a pressure washer beforehand.

Hard to say for sure, but I my first guess would be that water may be getting mixed in with the 303. I've experienced streaking with every product I've tried due to that. Now after I wash/dry, I'll let the VX sit for at least several hours before applying 303 - if it's cool outside, I'll even let it air dry overnight or for a day or two. This insures all the water evaporates out of the pesky recessed areas/cladding screws, etc.

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Wash/dry VX
* Let it sit & air dry completely
* Wipe off dust with a slightly damp terrycloth towel (if I let it dry for more than a few hours)
* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.
* Wait a few minutes and thoroughly buff off the 303 with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.
* Go to next section

I split up the cladding into 5 sections: entire right side, entire left side, front cladding, rear cladding, and finally half moon/door handles/etc.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

This has worked great and has consistently given me good results. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickOKC

Hard to say for sure, but I my first guess would be that water may be getting mixed in with the 303. I've experienced streaking with every product I've tried due to that. Now after I wash/dry, I'll let the VX sit for at least several hours before applying 303 - if it's cool outside, I'll even let it air dry overnight or for a day or two. This insures all the water evaporates out of the pesky recessed areas/cladding screws, etc.

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Wash/dry VX
* Let it sit & air dry completely
* Wipe off dust with a slightly damp terrycloth towel (if I let it dry for more than a few hours)
* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.
* Wait a few minutes and thoroughly buff off the 303 with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.
* Go to next section

I split up the cladding into 5 sections: entire right side, entire left side, front cladding, rear cladding, and finally half moon/door handles/etc.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

This has worked great and has consistently given me good results. :)

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awesome, thanks for taking the time to type this. i'll try next time around. so, you recommend a terrycloth towel?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickOKC

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

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Absolutely agree with Rick...I use the corner "area" (maybe 3" x 4") of a small terry rag and just spray a few times.

Keep in mind I'm doing roof rack parts, not the cladding. You can get ALOT of mileage out of that damp section of rag. I use a rough terry towel cuz I'm using the rag to clean and rub off lots and LOTS of oxidation type crude off the plastic parts, so I need the rough texture.

After the cladding, use the damp area on your interior panels, dash, console, back seat, etc....

And also agree with Rick- you can use the rag area even after it's basically "black". I even continue to use the same area on the rag the next day after spritzing it with the 303 again. :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by H3_VX

awesome, thanks for taking the time to type this. i'll try next time around. so, you recommend a terrycloth towel?

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I just figure terrycloth is absorbent, cheap and plenty soft enough that it doesn't have a chance on harming the cladding. I say save the nicer, more expensive microfiber for work on the painted areas that are more scratch-prone & delicate. Honestly, although I have some microfiber towels, I've never actually used them (where the heck are they?) I've always been perfectly happy with terrycloth even when polishing/waxing paint. (Tip: always remove any tags from the towel - they WILL scratch!)

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Originally Posted by VX KAT

Absolutely agree with Rick...I use the corner "area" (maybe 3" x 4") of a small terry rag and just spray a few times.

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What I like about using a small rag (in addition to conserving 303, etc.) is that it makes it tremendously easier to get into all the small places like around the racks, gaps between the door/fender, front lenses, cladding bolts, etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VX KAT

I even continue to use the same area on the rag the next day after spritzing it with the 303 again. :thumbup:

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Ha, I do that, too! Sometimes I notice the next day that I missed a spot.