Switching to Synthetics? msg me.

If anyone needs synthetic oil, tranny fluid, differential fluid, oil filter, and anything else for your VX and other vehicles... I can probably help you save some money on anything within AMSoil's product line. Let me know what you need and in what quantity. I'll check with my source to see what I can do on price.

AMSoil's online catalog for cars and light trucks is at http://www.amsoil.com/products/cars/index.htm

I can only do this between now and Feb. 04. After that, I won't be able to help.

Why AMSoil? I've been using it for four years and the stuff is good. I used to read the DSM and VW performance boards (I had a VW, a friend has a DSM) and two people for the boards did their own independant oil analysis with different brands of synthetic oils... Mobil, Redline, etc. AMSoil yielded the best test results in both cases.

I've been thinking of changing. I have a few of questions. First, with synthetic, how many miles is it recommended between changes? Second, is it o.k. to switch synthetics after you start one type? Last, what is the price with shipping to Dallas? Thanks.
Tom

I've considered switching too and wonder if there are any issues switching a VX with 70k+ miles? I've never used a synthetic. Also, can we expect a noticeable difference in the way our VX runs, or is it more a preventative medicine type of thing?

Haven't changed anything else yet, but I just did the switch over to Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil Friday night before the beach meet yesterday, and it already does feel different and seems less coarse under acceleration.

Each manufacturer as their own recommendation for change intervals... it also depend on driving conditions.

AMSoil's Synthetic 10W-30, which I use, is suppose to last up to 25,000 miles or up to a year under normal driving conditions. If you want to spend more, the Series 2000 0W-30 is suppose to last up to 35,000 miles or a year and has better flow properties. I haven't tried it myself but have read reports from people who have and were able to get rid of valve tick in their cars.

It's ok to switch from one brand to another. I've done it with my last car. First from Mobil to Redline, then from Redline to AMSoil.

If you want to run a bigger oil filter, AMSoil has a filter that is twice the size of stock that fits. It's the SDF-36. SDF-20 is suppose to be the direct factory replacement size. Price is the same for both. DragonBob/GrampaBob recommended the 36. That's the one I will and would use since we all know it works. I can't guaranteed that the 20 will work. Don't know how accurate AMSoil's application guide is, besides, extra filtration surface wouldn't hurt. It'd just take a little more oil that's all.

I don't know of any known issues with higher mileage cars. Most of the myths regarding that has to do with cars with bad/old gaskets and seals. Since synthetic flows better, after they switched to synthetics they noticed they had oil leaks... not realizing that the leaks had been there all along... just gunked up.

Shipping to Dallas... What I was going to do was to ship by UPS and have them collect shipping on delivery. Also, I can't figure out how much shipping would be without knowing the weight (how much you want to get). Once we know the weight, it's pretty easy to find the shipping charge with UPS.com

The only consideration with older, higher mileage vehicles is that the synthetic will de-sludge the engine. I know Mobil-1 will do this and imagine Amsoil probably would too, so be mindful as you probably should do an earlier filter/oil change initially on such a vehicle.

Also keep in mind that Mobil-1 and Amsoil are, to the best of my knowledge, the only TRUE synthetic lubes out there. There isn't any regulation on the term "synthetic". I could actually go down to Wal-Mart and buy the cheapest oil I could find, pour it into my own containers with a drop of synthetic and sell it as "Joe's Super Synthetic" and be completely in the clear.

Except for XL-7500 series from AMSoil. That's a blend like Castrol. Not full synthetic. It's their low cost alternative to full fossil for those who don't want to go the whole nine yards. Recommended change interval is 7,500 miles (which happens to be the VX's factory recommended interval). I'd still go with full synthetic though.

Yikes... I just looked up UPS ground rates. They're passing on the cost of fuel to their customers... which means shipping costs would pretty much wipe out whatever savings I can pass on to you. :( So... if you don't have a local AMSoil dealer, I can help you save. If you do, you're better off paying full retail.

I am now using mobile 10w/30 fully synthetic in the engine.What are the part numbers to all the oils to change everything to Amsoil 100% synthetic for the motor, trans, differentials, ect, And what amounts should I buy for each.:confused:

I can't speak for the amsoil product range, but in Florida's severe-duty environment I've been using Mobil-1 with great success. For the VX I use 15W-50 (red cap) in the engine with the Mobil-1 High-Efficiency oil filter, Mobil-1 Synthetic ATF for the tranny and TOD, and Mobil-1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant for the differentials.

I've noticed about a 3MPG increase over the last few tanks since the diffs and TOD were done at 12K miles. The engine has gotten the oil/filter done every 3K miles since new and I'm currently just over 15K miles.

This stuff is so awesome I'm about to go totally Mobil-1 in the 1943 Caterpillar D4 that I just got. Mobil's diesel synthetic is known as Delvac-1 and is also an outstanding oil especially considering the severe-duty environment of Florida.

For the motorcycle owners out there be sure to either use the motorcycle-specific Mobil-1 products or find the older Tri-Synthetic formulation. The new SuperSyn formula is too slippery for wet-clutch applications.

You can review the complete line of Mobil-1 automotive products on their website HERE.

Slight hijack here, but D4 airborne Cat?

How would a system need to be prepped for synths?

Jonathan

Hey Jonnie! The Cat D4 isn't airborne and Cat didn't produce any airborne tractors during WWII. There was an airborne crawler-tractor produced by the Clark Equipment Company called the Clarkair Crawler Model CA-1. Here's a photo...
http://www.wpafb.af.mil/museum/vfe/vfe3-1.jpg

There was also an airborne scraper used with it made by Laplant-Choate and known as the CAB-1. Here's a couple photos with the Clarkair...
http://www.syltech.net/images/p0002148.jpg
http://www.syltech.net/images/p0002150.jpg

LeTourneau did make a carryall scraper that I believe was airborne known as the D-4 Tournapull which was used alongside the Clarkair. Here's a pic...

http://www.syltech.net/images/d-4-qcarryall.jpg

Let me know via PM or such if you've got any interest or questions regarding the Cat D4 or antique tractors in general.

As for prepping the VX, or any vehicle for that matter, for use with synthetic; All you do is change fluids as normal and simply start using it. Easy as that!

Paulvx -

So how much money are we talking about for 5 quarts and a filter? How substantial would the savings be for, say, a case and four filters? Also, can you shoot us some prices on the transfer case fluids too?

BTW, I'm just south of Seattle so it would be conceivable that I could come pick up a supply at some point. How much savings are we talking about vs. a local dealer, if there are any?

Quote:

---

Originally posted by nuk
I am now using mobile 10w/30 fully synthetic in the engine.What are the part numbers to all the oils to change everything to Amsoil 100% synthetic for the motor, trans, differentials, ect, And what amounts should I buy for each.:confused:

---

Amsoil has 10W-30. Part number for a case is ATM-01. All other weights and part numbers are shown on AMSoil's site in the product information section.

Tranny and transfer case fluid would be their Universal Automatic Transmission Flud (ATF). Part number for a case is ATF-01. The amount you need is listed in your owners manual. 2 qts for the transfer case, 9.1 qts for the tranny.

Front differential fluid, again... accroding to the owners manual, should be 75W-90. Quantity you need is also listed in the manual.

Rear differential fluid should be 80W-90. Quantity... check your manual. Page 9-4 through 9-6. Everything is there.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by kpaske
Paulvx -

So how much money are we talking about for 5 quarts and a filter? How substantial would the savings be for, say, a case and four filters? Also, can you shoot us some prices on the transfer case fluids too?

BTW, I'm just south of Seattle so it would be conceivable that I could come pick up a supply at some point. How much savings are we talking about vs. a local dealer, if there are any?

---

I'll email you with prices. Save more by the case. Not much with individual bottles.

I switched to Mobil One years ago. Once we ran my wifes SUV DRY on trip, and didn't realize we even had a leak until at the oil change place, there was no fluid when the oil plug came out. That was a nice surprise. ever since then, I won't even THINK of running any vehicle without synthetics.


Bill

Before I got a VX I had a Maserati 228 BiTurbo and was recommended Royal Purple synthetics by a friend. After using Royal Purple I would never go back to anything else. If you go to www.jegs.com and search for royal purple you will find everything there. thx, V