Upper control arm bushings are a PITA!!!!!!

So, right now I sit with my thinking cap on. I have the passenger side front end torn down (the east part). But I am stumped as to how to get the bushing out...it is in there good! Since you can not get the control arm out completely unless you disconnect the brake line room to work is limited. The manual shows a "special tool" to remove them. I obviously don't have access to one. I have tried prying, twisting, BFH, c-clamps...
Anyone have any ideas? I will check back in a few...back to see what I can come up with. If you have any ideas lets hear 'em.:mado::mady::mado::mady:

Ttt

Use a socket to tap em out? I haven't looked at em so I have no idea, I would just take the brake line off, it only takes about 15 seconds to do that, then a few minutes later to bleed em.

Socket won't work. Removes from the inside out and there is a shaft (folcrum pin) in the center. Section 3c of the manual shows it.

Also, I am at a point of no return...I can not put it back as was. The inners of the current bushing pretty much disintegrated during the tear down.:mad:

Well, the sun is setting so I am calling it quites for the night. In the AM I will disconnect the brake lines, completely remove the control arm and have better access with the BFH.

I'm guessing that you might have to have them pressed out/in.

Pressed...BFH...same thing!:bwgy:

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Originally Posted by Triathlete

Pressed...BFH...same thing!:bwgy:

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Ball joint separator, BFH, same thing...

Dremel with cutoff wheel?

Post a picture of the situation, and maybe we can come up with a solution.

John C.

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Originally Posted by Hotsauce

Dremel with cutoff wheel?

Post a picture of the situation, and maybe we can come up with a solution.

John C.

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Once I get the arm off completely tomorrow If all else fails that may be an option.

Are they burnable? I've had to burn/melt some bushings out before in another vehicle... maybe if you don't want to take the control arm out and don't want to put a flame into the wheel well you could get an industrial heat gun and kinda melt them, or at least soften them to a slippery point?

Sorry if I missed this, but was your bushing shot Billy or are you finally going for the SAS option? I wish I remembered how I got mine out.

The bushing is toast. The bushing is a metal sleeve, rubber and a metal outter shell. The rubber part was 70% gone. I have the sleeve out, just need to get the shell out.11 years and 140,000 miles have it stuck pretty good. Going to get started on it as soon as I refueling the body from my morning run.
Bob B...everything that is burnable is gone. I have speedy took a torch to it to see if the heat would loosen things up...did nothing.

Well ,here is where I currently sit. Disconected the brake lines, abs wire unplugged, and got the control arm out. Those bushings are going nowhere without the removle tool or a press! So, we're off to the local auto machine shop. $30 to remove and press in the new ones. Said he could have them done in an hour or two. Then I get to throw it all back together and bleed the brakes.:bwgy:

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Originally Posted by Triathlete

Pressed...BFH...same thing!:bwgy:

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Triathlete

Those bushings are going nowhere without the removle tool or a press! So, we're off to the local auto machine shop. $30 to remove and press in the new ones. .:bwgy:

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Soooooo...whaddya sayin'? Press - BFH, NOT same thing?...:rotate:...:smilewink...:laughing:


Nuffin' but :heart: Bro...:yesgray:

Glad you're getting it handled.

Na, the BFH just wasn't big enough!:bwgy:

Actually you just couldn't get a good angle on it to give it the required beating. 15 minutes and $20 and the machine shop had it good to go. Tomorrow I start to put it all back together.:yesy:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Triathlete

Na, the BFH just wasn't big enough!:bwgy:

Actually you just couldn't get a good angle on it to give it the required beating. 15 minutes and $20 and the machine shop had it good to go. Tomorrow I start to put it all back together.:yesy:

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Tha's why God created hydraulic presses on the 8th day my friend...:smilewink

He should've created a cash tree in my back yard so I could afford one!:bgwo:

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Originally Posted by Triathlete

He should've created a cash tree in my back yard so I could afford one!:bgwo:

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http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a...ress-1666.html

80 buck$...:smilewink

I know y'all old retired farts have all the jing...:rotate:

Da press ain't da ching. It's all the blocks & little adapters that you need ... & a different one for each job.

Well we are all back together except for bleeding the brakes...will get that done in the morning.
A few helpfull tidbits...
*Fulcrum bolts are 19mm (if you need to replace one they are m14 1.50 thread pitch and very hard to find). They get torqued to 80lbs.
*The bolts that hold the fulcrum shaft are 22mm and get torqued to 112lbs. When removing these you need to pay attention to the spacers in the back. They need to go back in the same position. A couple small pieces of tape will help hold them together...there are several thin ones.
*Before torquing the fulcrum bolts you need to set the upper control arm so that the upper bump stop is 17mm from the thingy t(tech term) he bump stop hits.
The front fulcrum bolt is easily accessed from the front with a 3-4 inch extension on your torque wrench.

*After doing it the 1st time it is now a fairly easy job. If properly prepared less than 2 hours (additional time for a machine shop to press the old bushings out/new bushings in if you don't have a press and the proper addapters)
*The info for this is in section 3c of the manuel.

:bwgy::bwgy::bwgy:

:_wrench:...:thumbup:...:yesgray:

Mission complete!:bgwo:

But...found my next project. Driver side lower ball joint...boot is split...time to replace. Fortunately I have spares in hand!