Uh...hmmm...Thinking t-case but not sure

Ok, so I just got my 01 Proton today:). Drives great and feels awesome. But I went to go get some stuff from the grocery store and as I was backing out of my driveway and turning the vx stopped dead in its tracks. So, I pulled forward and backed out straight. Now, there is a whirling noise. Its not too loud but loud enough to notice (I'm anal so yes I will notice). Other than that the VX runs and drives great. Was thinking something to do with the t-case and/or diffs. In any case, I'm gonna change the fluids on all three and if you guys could point me in the right direction as to fluids that would be awesome (was thinking Royal Purple, as I have had several great experiences in the past). Thanks for the help and time.

Fluids should be in the vx service manual found in the downloads section of this site. Sounds like your t-case was partially engaged. Did you make sure the lever was fully seated in place?

Lever is seated in the "HIGH" position or all the way back. I can feel that the linkage is moving in and out so I don't think its that. After reading several posts I went and checked my tires and the front tires are worn a little more than the rears. I'm also thinking that my fluids are starting to be a major player in the problem. I picked the VX from a dealership and my guess is the performed some kind of service to the rig and forgot to put the LSD additive to the diffs.

UPDATE: The ABS light is on and my "Winter" driving switch does not work. "Power" switch does work.

**this is OT**
hey 'red ninty 9', im pretty sure i saw you near walmart headed towards LPHS like maybe 2 days ago? was that you?

No but I do live in that area. I just picked up my proton today.

congrats on your new vx

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ibmx2

congrats on your new vx

---

Thanks, it'll be better with some TLC;Dy;.

UPDATE: I just flushed t-case with no positive results. I will be flushing the diffs tomorrow after work.

So before I go off and get the diff fluids, I just wanted to know what the capacities of the diffs are? I know of the capacity page on this site but I'm just double checking.

If I remember correctly (totally guessing) it was 1.25 in the front and 1.75 in back? I think I only needed 3 bottles total... And DAMN is that stuff spendy these days Royal Purple was like $25 a a bottle

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xXxRed_Ninty_9xXx

Thanks, it'll be better with some TLC;Dy;.

UPDATE: I just flushed t-case with no positive results. I will be flushing the diffs tomorrow after work.

---

But did you follow the tranny fluid directions ie run time shifting etc? Failure to do so will leave your tranny woefully short of fluid and therefore not correct the issue.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by circmand

But did you follow the tranny fluid directions ie run time shifting etc? Failure to do so will leave your tranny woefully short of fluid and therefore not correct the issue.

---

circ- he said t-case... thats transfer case....not transmission....

red99-
buy some extra... you'll use it, plus you wont run outta fluid then and have to walk to wally world ;)
just fill it till it overflows....

if you need any help on weekends, i work on my car all the time and i'll be happy to help you.

Well i changed the diff and t-case fluids. Now at a crawling speed (2-3 mph) it has a buckle when i turn all the way to the locks and in reverse it stops while turning lock to lock. Now this car is pretty new to me and I don't know if that's how its supposed to be. If anyone can provide some input that would be great. Mainly on drive-ability.

What to do you mean exactly by a buckle? I know my VX was one of the smoothest feeling vehicles I've owned when turning. It's agility was one of the selling points for me. If it's binding or stopping, then something is way wrong.

It feels like the kind of hop/buckle you get when you turn on pavement while in 4-Low. The problem is I'm not in 4-Low and it only does it while moving really really slow. The second I hit the gas it moves of course. And if its moving at like 10 mph, it of course drives like it should.

Have you checked to make sure that your tires are not hitting/binding on the frame when at full lock?
If not that then the only thing I can think of that might cause those symthems only at full lock would be the CV's...possibly the retaining ring was left off the joint during a boot replacement or aftermarket shafts that are slightly shorter allowing them to pull out during full lock turns.
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

TCase and tranny shouldn't be affected by turning...if it were one of those it seems your symthems would accur at other times also.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Triathlete

Have you checked to make sure that your tires are not hitting/binding on the frame when at full lock?
If not that then the only thing I can think of that might cause those symthems only at full lock would be the CV's...possibly the retaining ring was left off the joint during a boot replacement or aftermarket shafts that are slightly shorter allowing them to pull out during full lock turns.
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

---

I don't think its the CV's as all 4 tires slip and grip like they are locked in 4-Low. I starting to think its one of two things. T-case has been abused and never maintained or speed sensors are bad and sending false info.

On a secondary note, my "Winter" switch doesn't work. "Power" does. Could it be that the trans is starting in third all the time and because the switch is broken I can't turn it off?

I don't see the winter mode causing your symptoms. That'll just make it a dog coming off the line.

Do check to make sure your tires aren't hitting the fender well or anything else. Mine just touches at full lock (right turn) & sounds similar.

What's wrong with the winter mode switch? The dash light is not coming on when stopped in drive?

The button does not stay down like the power switch. Basically, you have to be stopped in drive and the switch turns the dash light on and then you have to hit it again each time you wanna use it when stopped.

Mark

Got home late today and I have to work in the morning so I'll check when I get home tomorrow as to whether or not the tires rub. As for the winter switch....it doesn't work period. Power does though which is whats so confusing because unless I'm mistaken, they are apart of the same switch.

UPDATE: Whatever is causing my problem is literally killing my gas mileage. I filled up two days ago and put less than 200 miles on my tank. I just put a whole tank in it tonight. We'll see how long this lasts.

Then again it could just be me as my previous vehicle was a diesel dodge ram.

Gas mileage will not be your friend in the VX.

I started out getting between 12 and 13 MPGs when I first got mine...can't imagine why...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

After a year of fluid changes, new spark plugs, cleaing the MAF, cleaning the green air filter, using Lucas gas treatment with every tank, inflating my tires to 45 psi (does wonders for our already smooth ride...:bgwo:) and driving more like I'm 70 than 22...I'm up to about 16 MPG on average. I know it's going to go down again as the winter gas begins to hit the stations here in CO, so if you're needing something with great mileage its probably not going to happen.

Thanks Mile high for the info. Duly noted. At this point after working on my vx and starting to take care of the problems someone else neglected I can honestly say that gas mileage has been firmly removed from my list of worries.

UPDATE:I checked to see if the tires rub and they do not rub. Wheels and tires are stock in size.

red99-
give me a call this week and one night we'll get together and i can give you an opinion on whether it feels like a regular VX thing or not...

I have just re-read this thread from the beginning to get some ideas.

Could the handbrake be stuck partially on?? The hand brake is much more efficient when rolling backwards, so would stop you then, but only slow you down going forwards.
Could also explain the poor gas mileage??
A quick feel around the inside centre of the rear discs after a few miles of driving would pick up any residual heat.
Be careful - it might be real hot.

Winter switch - IIRC I read somewhere that the winter switch only works if the temperature is under a certain reading. This was to stop people using it when not needed, as starting from a standstill in 3rd gear is never good for the transmission.

Ok - now I will duck down and let the real experts tell me how wrong I am.
It's always fun.

PK

pk has some VERY valid points...
one of your brakes could be 'sticky' and causing a lot of your problems... could be any of the 4 individual calipers, or even the emergency brake cable...

but, unfortunately, i dont think PK's information is correct regarding the winter switch, because im pretty sure i've used it in 100+ heat just to see what it would do when offroading :naughty: not very impressive results haha.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PK

I have just re-read this thread from the beginning to get some ideas.

Could the handbrake be stuck partially on?? The hand brake is much more efficient when rolling backwards, so would stop you then, but only slow you down going forwards.
Could also explain the poor gas mileage??
A quick feel around the inside centre of the rear discs after a few miles of driving would pick up any residual heat.
Be careful - it might be real hot.

Winter switch - IIRC I read somewhere that the winter switch only works if the temperature is under a certain reading. This was to stop people using it when not needed, as starting from a standstill in 3rd gear is never good for the transmission.

Ok - now I will duck down and let the real experts tell me how wrong I am.
It's always fun.

PK

---

I would have never of thought that the brakes could be part of the problem. It does make a little bit of sense though. Sorry that I haven't been around I've been kinda busy.