My 4$ Windows fix :)

I tired everything to fix my window (graphit spray's , new window seal(rubber) , grease...etc ) but my window was not able to roll up straight...So i went to the walmart and spent 4 $ for "rubber tie down strap ".. :)
If any of you doing this , please make sure , the rubber tie down strap is not to tight...or you will burning up the motors due to the heavy load !!!
I had to cut the rubber strap to the right size.
Dont ask me how i found out the right lenght.. :) I just did it :)
My windows now working perfect ,no binding, sticking, jumping the track, tilting...ect
So there is some picture :

http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/1.jpg
http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/2.jpg
http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/3.jpg
http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/4.jpg
http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/5.jpg
http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/6.jpg
http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/7.jpg

I'm not very good at mechanics...how's the bungee cord work?

Also, the plastic square tabs holding the bottom edge of the glass don't look OEM...did you do anything there?

I'd strongly suggest you get the SBC brackets for $65 as they're strong metal. a The plastic square tabs look like they can age and snap off, like so many owners have reported. Metal is better there:yeso:

Probably qualifies as a cheap workaround rather than a fix, but I applaud your resourcefulness!

Sue, what I think he's getting at here is pulling the rear of the window back and down so that the front of the window lifts up easier relative to the rear. This way the front of the window binds less which is part of the cause of our window woes.

"Sue, what I think he's getting at here is pulling the rear of the window back and down so that the front of the window lifts up easier relative to the rear. This way the front of the window binds less which is part of the cause of our window woes. "

Yes Grif! You are right :)

We can call cheap workaround , rather than fix , but its working ... and now my windows not binds at all

"Also, the plastic square tabs holding the bottom edge of the glass don't look OEM...did you do anything there?"

No ! I did not do anything with those plastic square . I have no idea its OEM or not :)

Pretty ingenious joshi, I was considering adding some sticky weights to the bottom rear part of my glass to eliminate the rocking, but this actually achieves the same effect. I think the difficult part will be replicating the proper length/tensile strength of the bungee strap. Why is it we always forget to document what we're doing when we're experimenting? (That includes me.) ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Grif

Probably qualifies as a cheap workaround rather than a fix, but I applaud your resourcefulness!

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When I first got the VX in 2004, the windows were starting to drag, especially the driver's side. I too did the bungee cord thing - thinking it would be a temporary measure until I could figure out how to move the lift point since it is too far aft and that's what causes the window to tilt and bind. I was sure the bungees would break within a few months but here we are almost seven years later and they're still hanging in there. I'd call that a fix!

If both bungees break tomorrow I'll replace them and won't waste one second of my life trying to figure out how to move the lift point. Yeah - it's quick and cheap but it works and a second set of bungees will probably outlast me, so hey - in my world, it's a fix! :yesb:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SlowPro48

I was sure the bungees would break within a few months but here we are almost seven years later and they're still hanging in there. I'd call that a fix!

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Haha! Thats awesome!

joshi,

If you want to replace the vapor barrier (I noticed in your pix that it was torn & not replaced), Merlin was still able to get them a few months ago. IIRC they were only about $8.

If you're pleased with operating on the cheap/innovative alternatives, you can also make your own out of a large trash bag & just duct tape in in place.

His tabs looked just like mine, so I would say OEM. As for the SBC brackets, those address a separate problem and have nothing to do with the binding issue. If your tabs look good, I wouldn't mess with em.
I may try the bungee idea sometime in the next few weeks. Looks like a decent fix to our problem.

What kind of sound deadener, mid, and x-over? I used Raammat on the door of the Legend and will be doing so on the VX. Focal and Image Dynamics front stage for the VX :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marlin

As for the SBC brackets, those address a separate problem and have nothing to do with the binding issue. If your tabs look good, I wouldn't mess with em.

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Sorta ... but not entirely true.

When you mount the SBC brackets, you can actually slide them forward on the glass before the adhesive cures & before you tighten the bolts. That will have at least as much effect on the tilting as the bungie cord does.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joshi

http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/2.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marlin

His tabs looked just like mine, so I would say OEM. As for the SBC brackets, those address a separate problem and have nothing to do with the binding issue. If your tabs look good, I wouldn't mess with em.

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My windows were slowing down and "binding", was told the clips would likely snap off due to age (brittle) and the extra stress from the "binding". Between silicone spray in the rubber track and the SBC brackets, I eliminated that possibility. I consider the brackets cheap insurance, especially in my arid, low humidity environment where plastic cracks.

These pics (of both sides) made me think his tabs were different than mine.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0802.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0811.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0800.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vt_maverick

Pretty ingenious joshi, I was considering adding some sticky weights to the bottom rear part of my glass to eliminate the rocking, but this actually achieves the same effect. I think the difficult part will be replicating the proper length/tensile strength of the bungee strap. Why is it we always forget to document what we're doing when we're experimenting? (That includes me.) ;)

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Believe me or not :) i documented every step , i have done on my VX ! But my hard drive failed few weeks ago. At this moment im still running data recovery for that failed hard drive , i hope i can back all of my data , and pictures, and all my documents :)

http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/screen1.jpg

Nice work and since your really not stretching the bungee cord that much, I imagine it will last you a good while

UPDATE
Im done this 4$ windows fix about 8 months ago , and still working perfect :)

The window not going up straight getting cocked and jamming stems from the regulator being worn. The horizontal bar that holds the glass rides on the vertical track. There are plastic blocks that snap into the horizontal bar that keep it from rocking front to rear too much. I found that the blocks on the rear were worn because the window it is not quite balanced on the track, making it heave to the front. This causes the rear block to ware. I added a small zip tie around the block to take up the slack. That keeps the window level as it rises. I cleaned and lubed the track and cables with lithium grease and also cleaned and lubed the window rubber with silicone spray. The windows have been working grate ever since. I do expect to have to replace the regulators at some point.

Phil

Hey JOSHI, do you remember the length of the bungies you used?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sintender

Hey JOSHI, do you remember the length of the bungies you used?

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He hasn't been on since December of last year.

You might send him an Email instead of posting here...:bwgy:

I tried this fix... didn't work for me. :(

I felt that it also strained the regulator a bit which could lead to failure. I ended up messing the guides/track which resolved the binding issue.

Wish someone could make a manual crank mod for these... and solve the track issue at the same time.

I installed the aftermarket brackets a long time ago - purchased them from someone on here, they worked for a while but eventually the regulators wore out and both windows have the issue. The brackets are almost completely rusted off from moisture inside the door as-well. Would anyone consider making these brackets in aluminum?

Good thing about the motors, they are exactly the same as the trooper, so they can be had at any junkyard for next to nothing.

Can anyone tell me the length of the bungie used? Just the slack unstreched length? 12" 14"? just guessing from the pics.

Update :-) my 4$ window fix just failed after 4 years and 8 months :-) on the driver side , passenger side still ok :-) but I will replace that too
sorry I did not reply to the questions how long is that bungies what I used .
I think it's will be different for every car . Have to play with it a little bit and find the right length :-) that is how I did mine more than 4 years ago .