Went into a couple of local Advance auto's to pick up a purolator pcv 1061 and everyone one of them brought out the right box but it appears that they have changed the design. Wonder if any one else has seen this.
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Went into a couple of local Advance auto's to pick up a purolator pcv 1061 and everyone one of them brought out the right box but it appears that they have changed the design. Wonder if any one else has seen this.
Yes, I discovered that too about 4 months ago.
Used to be all black with sharp edges on L...
now they're brown and blue plastic, different edges.
Does that newer pcv valve fit better or work better because I was thinking of going back to the Isuzu pcv or maybe swapping that valve cover with an 2003 Axiom to get that metal screw in type. What do you think?
I don't know yet as I've only put about 2,000 miles on it. The base was quite a bit harder to get in, had to put some oil on the edge and I still didn't get it 100% flush with the grommet...really close, but not flush like the old style was. I assumed the base circumference was just a hair larger than the previous model, or my grommet had swelled or sumpin??:_thinkingQuote:
Originally Posted by habs10
I won't have any opinion until I change it out next oil change (which isn't that far off) and rattle it and see what it sounds like. I've kept my last few for reference, as they each seemed to sound different (and they were all the black Purolator 1061), they all sounded muffled to different degrees, sure not like a new one.
I'll bet they went with a different supplier (probably cheaper). I don't recall right now what country of origin the black or the brown said they came from.
I checked at a PepBoys recently, and had clerk check some backstock boxes to see if they had any of the black ones -> nope, all brown/blue. That was another difference, these were boxed, the black Purolators were carded.
I don't recall if the gang thinks the OEM was good or not??
I had to put grommet on pcv then put in hole to get to fit with the oil also.
So Sue whats the verdict? I will be changing my pcv soon, which brand has the groups approval?
I'm not sure where the pcv is,if i'm right i think i have the metal scew in on,cause that thing is the only thing i see that could be the pcv?
The PCV valve is located right above the front, driver's side cylinder (I can't recall which cyl # that is). In this picture, on my plastic engine cover, right side, front, see the square thing projecting to the right (about 1" below the silver stripes)? The PCV is directly under that.Quote:
Originally Posted by WILLY
Just SLOWLY wiggle your engine cover up.
There's 4 pegs holding it on.
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T lose the 4 rubber inserts that go over the pegs.
They tend to fall off as you are lifting the cover.
As far as brand...many use the Purolator, but I know many use other brands too, but can't recall the brands right now, been too long ago. Do a search and I think many posts should come up.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_2817.JPG
The old purolater 1061 had a metal slider valve, the new one has a spring mechanisim. Try to keep cleaning your old one if you'd like with carb cleaner. It's probably better.
I'm pretty P.O.'d about the quality of these parts from various manufacturers as I started with Purolator PCV's and had them pull apart in two pieces as well as stick (not rattle) shortly after being purchased.
I tried Autozone's DEUTSCH PCV VALVE for a 2000 ISUZU TRUCK VEHICROSS 4WD
Unit Price: $3.49
Part No.: PCV193
Weight: 0.05 lbs.
Availability: Online: Ships within 2 business days
Store: Normally Stocked
only to have them also stick (quit rattling) shortly after purchase. I sometimes wonder if my choice of oil (Mobil 1 Synthetic) isn't causing the PCV's to stick? Also tried a PCV from NAPA made in the USA only to have it stick closed not long after purchase too.
The longest working one I've had so far was one I purchased from some Mom & Pop place in Moab Utah after my newly purchased Purolator stuck closed during my road trip to Moab. But I finally had to replace it after it started to repeatedly stick closed.
I'm currently running one I bought from some Mom & Pop place in Edinboro, PA that I do like in that it has a larger diameter which "seems" to let my VX idle smoother when it is functioning correctly. I've gotten myself into a habit of checking for "rattle" after every fuel stop as I always check the oil level anyways. Usually like every 2nd fuel stop mine isn't rattling and I give it a shot of PB blaster or SeaFoam and then it rattles perfectly for like 2 tanks of gas before sticking again!
When my PCV sticks closed...my breather cap on the opposite valve cover starts foaming oil due to the crankcase pressure building up internally and releasing pressure as well as oil spray out the breather. Kind of nice in that I get a visual indication that the PCV isn't working...however...kind of sucks because I have to top off my oil due to usage/leakage. I swear my idling isn't as smooth too when the darn thing sticks as well. I am wondering if your best bet isn't to stick with the OEM PCV from ISUZU???
I was surprised to see that my '07 Mustang doesn't have a serviceable PCV as per the owners manual...time will tell if this is a great design!
I agree JR, I've had at least 2 of the black Purolators come apart in two pieces when removing. And a few that were hardly rattling at all....which is all the more worrisome for someone like me who has no skill, diagnostic or mod abilities to fix or change anything.
Anybody have any opinions on the OEM one?
If Billy and Mav had their OEMs functional for a really long time, is it worth trying that one again? (probably costs a mint comparatively!)
When I first changed mine, it was an OEM, at 65k (but could have been replaced obviously).
Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
At $13.50 I think I'll pass and find another solution/brand that works. I'm happy with my Microguard, but I don't use any oil so that a plus.
No saying that this is the right thing to do, but in the past when I had other cars that used oil I just drilled the hole in the bottom of the valve bigger, took out the rattle and never worried about it again. Gotta be careful with this because you can cause the engine to run lean and that causes other issues.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...filter_001.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by habs10
I've had two of the black ones fall apart on me - and the brown one does fit better on my VX. No issues so far.
-- John
Pulled VT_Mav's questions from the other thread.....Good question....Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
~Would you expect a code to be thrown?....:_thinking
~If it stuck OPEN, would you expect an oil spray mess in the engine bay?
~If my oil level doesn't drop, BUT the PCV valve does NOT rattle when removed....is that really considered a malfunctioning PCV?
~Or, might that imply a malfunctioning PCV doesn't affect oil consumption?
~If the old PCV has some rattle, is it still functioning?
~Some of my old ones have a rattle that sounds like it's wet/muffled...I assume from oil...wouldn't that be expected?
The only way I can answer those questions would be to explain how the PCV works.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve: PCV Valve
On a VX...if the valve is rattling when you shake it that means it is good. This is because it is acting like a simple ball & check Valve. If it is not rattling than it is stuck either open or closed.
In a normally operating PCV System...the pressure in the crankcase has to go somewhere and it is looking for the least path of resistance, which in this case is the valve, which gets popped off its seat (lifted up by the pressure) as it allows the pressure to escape through the exit hose back to the intake. It is sent back to the cylinders for reburning as this pressure is considered a contaminent in that by-products of the combustion process are mixed in the air being released.
As this pressure begins to release you get a "Venturi effect" in that air begins to circulate the crankcase because it is now being pulled into the left valve cover (opposite the right valve cover with the PCV Valve) which on a stock VX has a hose that goes to your air filter box IIRC; as mine is no longer stock since I simply have a breather filter installed on the left valve cover. Either way...filtered air is now being sucked into the left valve cover and "postively ventilates the crankcase" as the valve allows it to exit the right valve cover.
On pre-emissions controlled cars they simply installed a breather pipe that dropped down below the engine block and vented the pressure out to the atmosphere. This is why you could bypass it with a breather filter as someone above has shown. This will not pass emission testing however.
If your PCV Valve is faulty in that it no longer rattles when shook. That means the valve is either stuck open or stuck closed. Stuck open would be preferable as this would be like the "gutted PCV" someone mentioned above and simply always release pressure...but for some reason...mine only knows to get stuck closed which is not preferable in that pressure now builds up in the crankcase and is looking for another way to release....more than likely it will cause the PCV system to sort of work in reverse in that the pressure will now exit the left valve cover and probably foam oil spray towards your air filter box via the hose on a stock VX or in my case out the breather cap.
On other vehicles it has been known to blow the oil pan off the engine block in severe cases...usually though it caused the oil pan gasket to start leaking as pressure escaped.
There is no code thrown for any of the above so your VX's computer won't pick up on this.
A popular theory that has been mentioned here on this site is that if your PCV sticks closed and pressure builds up in the crankcase...this pressure resists your oil returning back to the oil pan which means it stays longer up in the cylinders which results in higher burn-off. Add to this, if your EGR Valve is faulty it is stuck closed as though you "blocked it off" and results in higher cylinder temps. Combine the two faults and now you have oil lingering longer in what is now hotter operating cylinders which is the perfect storm for oil burn-off hence greater consumption of oil.
I had previously purposely blocked my EGR with a blocking plate when my EGR went bad as I didn't want to spend the $$$ to replace it and by blocking it off you raise the cylinder temps supposedly gaining performance since only pure air/fuel is going in and not reburnt exhaust too. However, I noticed worse oil consumption especially when my PCV would stick closed too. I've since un-blocked the EGR and replaced it with a new one and as I've said before...I check my PCV after every fill-up when I'm under the hood checking my oil level too. If my PCV isn't rattling..I used either a spurt of SeaFoam or PB blaster to free it up until I can find a GOOD, Quality PCV Valve!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry for the long-winded post...hope it helps! Gotta go to work! Bye! lol.
Wow JR, thanks. Really helps me understand how this all works. Sounds like you're saying if it's rattling at all, it's still functioning.
I'm going to keep changing it frequently.
Like you, wish we all could find a good quality one.
how about any of these.... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...481523-7397859
or this...... http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto...ml?3593=100884
The Krankvent seems like a good idea to solve the PCV issue and possibly the oil consumption issue.
http://www.et-performance.com/normal.html
JR,
Thanks for the brilliant description. I was going to ask the question and you explained it in detail before I got the chance :bgwb:
Cheers Mate!
Sorry, but it's ford engineering, great design...not likely...:rotate:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger VX'er
And just because I'm gonna try to remain on topic for a change...:mbrasd:
Read this... http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=oil+catch
This is also some good read'n...http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=oil+catch
Is this one of your New Year's resomalutions....:bgwb::smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
:_confused...:rotate:...:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile High VX
Actually, so far after almost 2 years and 24k miles the only disappointment I've had with the 'stang is that with it's stock tires I've been unable to get up and out of my somewhat steep, snow covered driveway during some test runs...:oQuote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
I store it winters in my garage...but, if anything ever happens to my VX...I was HOPING my 'stang could get me to work....not gonna happen! :(
Maybe next winter I'll have some dedicated snows mounted up on extra rims just in case if its in the budget! :yesb:
On the other hand, I had to pick up a new Amish-made, Log "pioneer-style" bed I bought (they don't deliver...probably 'cause they don't drive) and needed my VX with trailer to haul it. The VX pulled my trailer up my snow-covered driveway without any trouble! :bgwb:
==============> video just for you 'dubster<====================
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZzXHq7gKN8
sorry for straying off topic......yeah, yeah, where can I get a GOOD, Quality PCV Valve??????
why "Puralator" pcv valves?
Nice video, Jolly Roger.
Just spent too much time on YouTube again, tho. Nice tributes.