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They are on their way from Vegas!:bwgy:
So does it really help save front end parts with locking hubs?
The CV's and shafts will still turn but there will be less stress on them so I think it will definately help. Also those that have done them see a slight MPG improvement.
Isn't this kind of counter-productive to your SAS?
Yes....but more productive for my wallet at the time!:bwgy: Hubs and shafts will be under $200...SAS a lot more to do it right!:yesy: SAS is still a long term goal!
Are those the ones on the planet for 50 bucks? Also, what ever happened to your bumper plan we talked about over a year ago:rolleyes:
Billy, just a quick tip, when you get them and put them back together, be conscious of the orientation of the big spring. It looks the same on both sides but it is not. I made the mistake of putting mine together backwards on one side and it took me a while to figure out wtf I did wrong. Let me know if you need the diagram for these.
Bart
I got a set of these for my JDM as i can select 2wd on the transfer box, disengage the hubs and im in 2wd with none of the front drive train turning. I dont understand their use when your front end is always being driven with the TOD ????
Yeah same here - I don't get how these will help unless you have a detroit locker or something like that in the front diff, then they would eliminate the clacking and wear and ill handling a locker would cause. But for a stock open diff and no 2WD function on the TOD what is gained by these hubs? C'mon Billy - edumacate us non-wheelers!
Even though the front end is being turned, there is no weight against them since the wheels are not locked in, so all the TOD has to do is turn the gears inside the transfer case and since that has no real weight on it there is less work for all the parts and longer life.
At least that's the story I been tellin'!
Bob, I may be wrong (someone please correct me if so), but with the hubs unlocked, the trans is still going to spin the transfer case which in turn will still be powering the front diff when the TOD kicks in, which will still be powering everything all the way to the CV joints, but at the end of the CVs, the hubs will be there and unlocked so there will be no tire weight/friction on the CVs, they will just spin. I think it's a little strange myself, but I understand the principle. Most of the time when CVs break, it is because the vehicle is lifted, putting the CVs at a sharper angle, which in turns creates way more stress on the joint when wheeling. That is why so many folks have had issues with a front locker and our IFS. Too much stress is being put out to the front IFS, and both sides at the same time, which causes CVs to fail more when one tire is hung up and the other isn't. With the hubs unlocked, you are minimizing the stress (i.e. weight and pressure) on the CVs, and thus, making them last longer, hopefully.
I think this would be a benefit to someone with a front locker, because if you were wheeling, and got one of your front tires stuck pretty good, you should be able to, in theory, unlock the stuck side, so there is no torque going to that side (via the locker) at the same time there is torque going to the other side. Which, in theory, should eliminate the potential to snap the stuck side. Does that make sense?
And I suppose a negligible MPG increase may also happen.
Bart
Having the manual hubs definitely help me. I have the Aussie locker in the front which means no 4wd on asphalt for me. I also put in a kill switch for the TOD so the front gets ALMOST zero power when I'm not wheelin'.
Billy, you should really think about doing that too... while you're at it, go ahead and drop the front diff an inch or so. :)
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VAPORGENIE CHEAP
I got them on the Planet for $70. If I remember the $50 ones were missing a few things on one of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
As far as the bumper...the plans are still floating around in my head but my fab guy that does all the tube bending and welding has been MIA. Right now I need to do a lot of mech stuff...this project (cv shafts/hubs) and then I need to get to the timing belt. But some day...hell, by then maybe I will learn to weld!:bwgy:
My TOD just flashes randomly when I have the front hubs unlocked. I assume that the front end is getting little to no power.Quote:
Originally Posted by phines
They also help if you break a CV on the trail, you can still drive it home without having to listen to the clacking and what not. My front CV's have been on there last leg but I have the Aisin's as well (ran them on a few Isuzu's actually) and it works great, my MPG is about 17 too all the time so I'm happy with my combo lol. But like everyone said, even though the front shafts are still spinning, they are basically "freewheeling" so no real stress or resistance on the drivetrain or motor from the front end like would normally be if locked in.
I've been driving around with my CV boot holding all the pieces of my snapped CV joint since off roading 3 weeks ago :D I have it in 2wd and hubs unlocked!
However i thnk on the US model you'll still have the CV's spinning with power from the transfer case
Does it seem logical to do this mod even if you only drive on the street to chase your IRS gov't rep away, but never go off-road? If it in fact does result in less wear than i'm figuring it does make sense. Any opinons for folks using this setup on the street? Are there more costs to this swap that might make it prohibitive?
New superwinch hubs are not much over 100 bucks. Takes less than 20 min to install each one. They have a lifetime warranty, I broke one in the first month or so (aftermarket CV exploded and pushed the Hub guts out) They sent me two brand new ones!!!! Now I have a spare, ZERO cost to me. I just had to mail the old one back, so I guess 8bucks S&H.
From an efficiency standpoint, there has to be some energy lost in spinning two extra tires, as well as load on the front drivetrain. As it has been said countless times before, they will be spinning, but not under load. I found that my acceleration seemed to improve, and my steering felt "lighter". Not sure how to describe it any other way, maybe it was all psychological? But if you bust a CV on the trail, as crotch mentioned, they are a life saver!!!
Sure, with the hubs unlocked, your wheels are getting zero power. But if the TOD computer is still running, it definitely transfers more power to the front diff than it does when the computer is 'killed', even on the highway. My front diff is a little noisier since installing the locker so it's very audible if I drive with the TOD on and the hubs are unlocked. As soon as I switch off the TOD the 'whirring' of the front diff completely goes away. I have to assume that means I'm saving on wear and tear of the front diff as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
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Lovely Wendie99
Did you do the TOD off via the write up in the how to?Quote:
Originally Posted by phines
I started using Tad's write-up over at Planetisuzoo, but then just got lazy and put in a basic kill switch. As a result, the 'Check' light flashes all the time when I have the TOD off and won't come back on by just flipping the switch; I have to restart the VX to reset the computer. (must be Windows based) :)
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Lovely Wendie
Hubs arrived today....they are in great shape and ready for install!:dan_ban::dance::dan_ban:
P.S. If anyone else is looking there is another set of Asins for sale on the Planet.