So I came across this article about a Vehicross for sale. The writer doesn't take a position, himself...he's leaving it up to you, the voters.
So, VOTE! Nice price, or crack pipe?
http://jalopnik.com/5597129/for-1000...-from-the-past
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So I came across this article about a Vehicross for sale. The writer doesn't take a position, himself...he's leaving it up to you, the voters.
So, VOTE! Nice price, or crack pipe?
http://jalopnik.com/5597129/for-1000...-from-the-past
I voted "nice price" but I'm kinda partial.
I think whoever wrote that may own one or more crack pipes though...:yesgray:
"changing of the torque split, and is able to send the majority to either axle"
since when could the majority of power go to the front axle...:confused:
"seller makes the claim of 300 ponies from the now forced induction six. Power delivery of the stock motor was said to be adequate back in the day, so this one, if it does rock 300"
That's a pretty big IF ya got there fella...:smilewink
"The dash is shared with the decidedly ‘80s Trooper"
Mmmmmmmaybe try Rodeo/Pilot...:rolleyesg
C'mon folks, vote.
Fer = 40%
Agin = 60%
Ebony, supercharged, low miles, looks clean, nice price to me.
Bart
For $10k, you'd think he could INCLUDE a crack pipe, but I voted "Nice" anyway just 'cause I'm sick of 'ignert' people takin' pot shots at our beloved VXs!
Ldub...Honda Pilot...lol: http://automobiles.honda.com/pilot/exterior-photos.aspx
Nearly a mirror image of mine in looks and mileage. Mine probably has far less cosmetic blemishes like they mention in the article, never been roughed up off road, and is garage kept though.
I would price mine at $15k, no frills. If it didn't sell, it would sit till someone came along that had $15k (sorry Russia, not meeting you guys at the shipyard :p ). Think about it, 2 years, 5 years, 10 years from now.... someone will eventually.
I like the bra in the pics. Were that scoop actually functional, it would defeat the purpose, heh. Also, 300hp? I'm a S/C'd monkey butt too but I dunno dude, you better show some dyno slips first. That's some pretty big talk for what you may actually be peaking 200 at the wheels. Keep saying to myself, I am gonna get mine slipped.... and it keeps slipping my mind. :(
Well it COULD make 300hp at the crank, seeing as that's what most reference when asked about a vehicle, like my VX has 215hp etc etc. Or as I do with my "fast" builds, I'd say "I make xxx HP at the tires" if I have dynoed and I will throw out the calculated engine HP sometimes too. Like "I make 365hp at the tires, pushing a bit over 400 at the motor"
I voted NP, with only 54K miles, that would be a fair deal. Personally I would rather not have the SC, but thats just me. I would take the SC off, sell it, use the money for more mods!!!!!!!:bgwb:
Dang, where the heck are all these Crack Pipe votes comin' from???....oh yeah.....the rest of the world...non vehicross.info members and non VX owners...:rollo:
Right, but I hear that talk all the time living in the Subaru world as well so I NEED slips to prove it. All I'm saying. Too many people go with a bolt-on and expect that advertised power.... only to find out that they need to spend another $120 per hour on a dyno and laptop to map a tune for full potential (sure wish we had that option). Luckily, the S/C is pretty cut and dry since it's far more mechanical and sensor free. But still.... even the Ebay Intake Turbo Twister advertises a 35hp boost.... let me see some slips.
Wish I had the time to dyno mine cause I am very interested in knowing where it's powerband lays and just how much in the low end I am increasing. My VX is sluggish on it's low end, no thanks to the larger tires and full OEM weight, but high end, that little monster can make a highway lane pass like my STi. Would love to work some of those kinks out.
I would have to think that our lowly 4-spd transmission gearing has a lot to do with it.... if and when the time comes, does anyone know if there are any newer 5 spd transmissions that would bolt up?
I know, it's hard to ignore the haters, but "they know not what they do."
Still, let's Rock the Vote and do right by our trusty VXs. :bwgy:
PS: Just found out (accidentally, of course) that I can input multiple votes as long as I use different computers, or laptops, or iPhones...just sayin'...
Yup...a manual bolts right up...http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ght=speed+swap
http://www.powwows.com/gathering/ima.../gotsearch.gif...:smilewink
The 4L60E that is in the Hummer H3 should bolt right up....its a 4 speed but does have a lower 1st gear....
The are 5speed autos that will bolt right up,(to the engine at least) but finding/making a computer to controll it properly is the hard part...
And Dub,
while I have your attn........
Can I borrow your Mad Max version VX? There are hundreds of people downtown protesting the new 1070 bill.
I figured your machine would look much more formidable while barreling through telling everyone to go home!!!;wtf;:drama:
Yep, my mechanic fitted up a 4L60E when I had my tranny replaced, but it was gonna be another 900 bucks to upgrade to a new one. :( The insurance company refused and said they wouldn't warranty if I did that. I am still out 2K from that work, the company went tits up about two weeks ago. No money to me, but the Pennsylvania Attorney General is filing a class action against them and said I could come away with more than I paid, and the car dealership is refunding the full warranty purchase price. So, at least I get some back, but that just means I could have done the 4L60E swap...
why would they need jobs when our govm't hands them money for coming here and having babies?!?!
The 4L60E also has alot of "upgrade" parts available for it but it would need a controller (I'
m pretty sure the 4L30E's electronics would not interchange) but also the Atlas engine family does NOT use the same bolt pattern, it looks similar to the 60 degree pattern but it is not. So the H3 trans won't just bolt up to our engines. Here's a pic of an Atlas bellhousing next to a small block chevy pattern, the 60 degree pattern is actually different than both:
http://www.rockfrogs.org/members/bac...0vs%204200.jpg
You could get a 700R4 from behind an early 2.8 V6 S10 and mod that to work (a guy on the Planet used a Dana 300 case or people have made adapters to keep the Zu' case).
After going all OCD while shopping and comparing prices, there was no way I would vote for crack pipe. The price is definitely out of my budget, but not unfair in my opinion.
One of the comments from those icky crack-pipers caught my attention, "I can only imagine what sort of new creaks and rattles have cropped up in the years since."
The day I bought my VX, I was driving from Dallas to OK City when it hit me, "Where are the squeaks and rattles?" There was a big bang when I ran over the really big bumps in the road and I suspected that was the back seat. In anticipation of transporting my new tires home tomorrow, I removed the back seat a little while ago. Yep, the Big Bang was gone. There was still a slight rattle when going over the same big bumps and that was fixed by putting some cheap gasket material between the spare tire cover and the rear hatch.
ZERO squeaks and rattles in a 9-year-old vehicle with 120k miles so I say "UP YOURS, Crack-pipers!"
(Wish I could say the same thing about my 2-year-old Ford.)
I experienced the same thing. I put a subwoofer in the rear door, no rattles, not even the license plate. That blows my mind. My 08 Expy rattled quite a bit. Now, having said that, after wheeling for the last year or so, the rear interior plastic started creaking and squeaking. Part of the reason I removed that stuff.:)
I added a Flowmaster Off-Road Extreme muffler to my VX. Even if there ARE rattles, I can't hear them over the thunderous roar of the engine.