Printable View
Just wondering if anyone has tried this stuff?
It's called Stoner Trim Shine and It's for sale at Canadian Tire.
The website is pretty informative... just thought I'd ask first before trying it.
Company claims that it has UV protectant in it.
I'm looking to get rid of the chalky, drip marks and water stains that are left over after I wash the vx, and want something that doesn't need to be re-app'ed every week.
http://www.trimshine.com/media/Photo-91034Can-01C.jpg
Thanks all...
I know nfpgasmask (Bart) uses it and swears by it. I tried it, looked great, but dust sticks to it so that ruled it out for me. Can get it at regular auto stores here in the U.S.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben-man
I like Mequires Natural Shine. Nice natural look...not shiney, does not attract dust/dirt and last fairly long.
I hate when my cladding gets dusty. You lean against your car in a nice white shirt and khakis and BAM! your filthy. I find this unacceptable so I went in search of a solution that would last longer and not dust up.
The previous owner of my black VX tried some kind of cladding cleaner and it also dusted up and even left white streaking stains from the rain.
Something I found that worked was rubbing alcohol and armor all detailer.
Cleaning it with the alcohol, then go over it again with this stuff gave my cladding a like new look without the thin film that attracts and holds dust.
http://www.armorall.com/img/products...6_original.jpg
Here's some more info. There's many threads addressing this common topic.
Many of us have tried a product called "Restore/Refinisher". it's not a treatment but a permanent coating, almost like a coat of clear nail polish.
Here's the thread talking in detail about it, and my post #33 explaining exactly how I applied it. And my post #51 provides some updated info since I applied a 2nd coat this year. I did discover a down side, that is, it chips off when abraded, like from a bush or tree branch.
http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...inish+restorer
Definately worth the effort and money to use the restorer. Stuff is amazing. Brings back color and stays for a long time. Not a dust magnet like armorall or the other stuff.
I agree regular armor all is not the way to go. But the stuff I was referring to is called Detailer, and has a "Natural Finish". It wipes off clean. I don't like the glossy look on the cladding.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daly
try armor-dillo. its like a green baby wipe. realy easy to aply. last for about 2-3 months. with ZERO dust colection and looks like it just came off the show room floor. the only place ive seen it is at a chevy dealership. (its what they now recomend for the clading on Avalanches)
You can also order it online, pretty sure somebody mentioned this in one of the other cladding treatment threads. Just search Google for "armor-dillo ts1" and you'll get hits for places to buy online. The first one in the list is this:Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingV77
http://www.autocosmeticproducts.com/Armordillots1.htm
You'll notice it's SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than the other products mentioned in this thread.
i havr no idea how much it costs. the parts mgr is a close friend of my brother. he gave it to me for free to test it for him. as the dealer just got there first shipment the day before. it does work great. everything you want with none of what you dont.
When I did my refinish restorer it took me about 2.5-3 hours. '
Here's why:
When you put it on the first time if you use a lint free rag or sponge/chamois, run it around a bit to really get it soaked in the plastic (make SURE you are doing this in shade/cooler weather.
Once you see it darkening to a decent amount THEN run it in even strokes to smooth it out and get it texture free. Once that coat dries you can repeat until satisfied with coverage and sheen.
Unlike Kat the refinish restorer did darken my cladding significantly, nearly as much as my MANY Back to Black applications and even took away my gas stain and a few marred areas. I did wash those areas and the fender edges and such with windex first to get all the grease and oil off.
That was about 4 months ago. I would have either done 3 Back to Backs by now or be driving with some extremely faded cladding.
Point being, I've tried nearly every product on the cladding that we have been through on the boards. I settled on Back to Black for over two years (intermittently trying other product that came out) and I can tell you now if you are using anything else other than refinish restorer or something that achieves the exact same effect through a similar process you are honestly wasting a lot of time, elbow grease, and good looking days for the VX.
It's permanent for the most part. You can touch it up from time to time if you get a scuff or a little rough area and there are like 20 applications in the can. It doesn't accumulate dust repels water effectively and is easy to wash with mild soap and water when doing the rest of the car. I LOVE having my car wash be an hour long instead of 2 because I'm recoating everything with Mother's.
I really don't even know why we still have "OH noooesss! my cladding is fading what do i do!" threads anymore. The solution is 45 bucks, comes from germany and is in a red metal can.
Get it and be done with the weakest link to your VX care regime. Period.
*Full Disclosure* I HAVE heard that Armordillo wipes have been effective for those that are nervous about the permanence of RR. I, however, only found info about Armordillo once I had completed my RR treatments. I am pretty certain though that's its not nearly as permanent. I think that Chopper has been running it on his for over a year now with no fading.
one more thing. you only need one pad to do the entire vx
@ FlyingV77 - I'm glad you mentioned washing with a "mild soap and water."
I'm sure everyone here already knows this, but just in case... only wash using a soap that is meant for vehicles. Every once in a while I still find family, friends, neighbors or coworkers who are using dish soap to wash their cars (like we were taught "way back when.") It will immediately remove your wax. Ditto for commercial car washes.
Speaking of wax, cladding and helpful hints - got dried wax streaks or stains in your cladding or other textured plastic? A few applications of smooth peanut butter will remove it. First time I heard about that I was sure some joker was trying to see how many suckers he could get to fall for his prank. Nope, it works. Use your fingertip to apply it like it's a polish and then wipe it off. It instantly looks better and the plastic is darker because part of the wax has been removed and the peanut butter is oily. That "Armour-All" effect doesn't last and any remaining dried wax will reappear after a few hot summer days. Just keep re-appling until it's all actually removed. At worst, I had to do this 4 times.
Hard water spots? 50-50 mix of white vinegar & distilled water. If it's really bad, let it set for 4 or 5 minutes before you wipe it off. Then re-apply wax.
Bugs on the bumper? Soak a towel in hot water and let it rest on the bumper for a little while to soften them up, then wipe 'em off.
Sorry... I ramble.
-- Rick the detailing freak
If your cladding has NOT suffered from UV damage/color change etc., I recommend "303 Aerospace Protectant" by 3M. You can find it at some auto parts stores, and at most marine supply stores. I got turned on to this when I bought my Calfee Carbon Fiber bicycle frame - the owner/builder, Craig Calfee, recommends it to protect the frames he builds. (Sidebar - this is where ALL carbon fiber bicycle frames in North America are sent for repairs, regardless of who originally built them!). I'm lucky enough that my VX has been garage kept since new, so my cladding is in VG condition. I tried it a few weeks ago, and was flat out AMAZED at how easy it is to apply, how GREAT it makes the cladding look, and how long it lasts (so far)! Furthermore, it will protect your cladding from UV damage - that is this product's "claim to fame". I've found that you pretty much can't lose on ANY product with the 3M name...
Hey techno...wanna trade cladding??:laugho: I'm pretty sure my cladding is possessed! :rollo:
I'll 2nd the recommendation on the "303"..it's just flat out amazing! :thumbup:
Been using it on all the roof racks I've procured, nothing short of amazing, turns the black aluminum bars a nice silky black, & rubber and plastic are like new. Spray it on & let it soak on the plastic for several hours, have found it's even more spectacular that way. Lasts a long time, but bottle says reapply every 6 weeks or so for max UV (SPF40) protection. Got mine on Amazon with free shipping, also avail on ebay.
Wish I coulda tried it on my cladding before R/R...get it all nice and dark, then apply the R/R to seal it all in that way! (I know that's not how the surface is to be prepped though)
Ganz...Calfee builds some very sweet road bikes! I was unpleasently surprised by his TT/tri frame...I was expecting something more than a cookie cutter design. I also dig his bamboo frames. Have heard they have an amazing ride.
P.S. not ALL carbon frames are repaired by Craig though he is quite capable. My Felt just came back from some warranty work from the Felt plant in Irvine, Ca.
:ot: :hj:
**End threadjack**
Sorry KAT, I will put some VooDoo on it if you want me to!
I need to find some of this 303 for my rack. It could definitely use some TLC. The aluminum is oxidized looking and the rubber as well.
Wonder if they have it at autozone or pepboys?
Looks like Cabela's will ship it to store for free, if you have one of those close...16 oz $14.99. A lot of marine and RV supply places often have it also.Quote:
Originally Posted by technocoy
Otherwise, I'd just search Amazon for the best deal. I know I got free shipping.
I bought the 32 oz spray and it will last a lifetime...I've used it a ton and it's maybe 1/4 gone...I'd say go for the smaller 8 oz or 16 oz ...but then again, you may go crazy with the stuff like I am and spray everything you possibly can! Even see a user on Amazon included a pic of his engine bay. I've detailed my engine bay twice, check out my ROM pics.
http://www.amazon.com/303-Aerospace-...6974785&sr=8-2
Here's 16 oz $12.50 + $6.99, not too bad.
http://www.amazon.com/Aerospace-Prot...6975281&sr=1-4
HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! Good try KAT with the subliminal quote manipulation...
I'm one of those people that thinks a VX just loses a certain amount of testosterone when there is no rack.
I'll check some local marine shops and see whats there... The closest Cabela's is like 2.5 hours. ugh.
Thanks for the info though. Definitely a big help.
Damn! I think he's on to me...:_brickwalQuote:
Originally Posted by technocoy
Maybe it was the bold italicized purple font:_thinking
.....you know us Mac people, we're pretty crafty with the graphics! :laugho:
Hey Kat,
so, is that 303 stuff a cleaner as well, or just a sealer/protectant. I do have some lighter streaks on the cladding, but nothing that l would call oxidation. I guess what I'm asking is: would you just buy the 303 or would you clean it first with something else?
Sprayed directly on very dirty, grimmy roof rack parts (plastic end caps and the towers especially), wiped down with a rag, resprayed them and let them sit for a few hours. By then, it loosened dirt of any type, so I could just wipe it away AND it seemed to absorb into the plastic much more than just when sprayed and wiped it off. I heavily sprayed the inside of the end caps and cleaned them with Q-tips...so Joshi and VxMtb you'll be really impressed if you look inside there! :laugho:Quote:
Originally Posted by ben-man
Made the black plastic look nice & dark and "moisturized", like new.
Think it would work very well on cladding! Except I don't know if it will remove prior products (B2B etc...)
Here's the product instructions....doesn't mention cleaning any item first...
303 Aerospace Protectant
"SPF 40 SUNSCREEN" For Your Stuff
Developed for aerospace and aviation applications, 303 is the world's most effective UV screening product. Unlike other "protectant" products, 303 does not contain silicone oils, waxes, glycerin or petroleum distillates. 303 leaves a like-new, non-oily, anti-static finish that does not attract dust. Treated stay cleaner longer, reducing maintenance.
Interior/Exterior: Vinyl & leather Interiors, plastic bumpers, fender flares, trim and lenses, car bras, tonneau covers, vinyl soft tops & Plastic windows, chrome and alloy wheels. Spray on, wipe dry.
Synthetic & Natural Rubber: for inflatable boats, wet/dry suits, tires, door & trunk seals and under-the-hood rubber. Spray on, wait 5 min. & wipe dry.
RV EPDM Rubber Roofing: Clean surface. Spray on mop on 3x3 foot area. Wipe dry. For your safety, never walk on wet roof.
Fiberglass: RV's boats, truck caps. Out of direct sun, spray surface with 303 and wipe completely dry. If streaking occurs, too much product has been used. Use a wet towel to remove excess, immediately wipe dry.
Motorcycles/ATV's/Snowmobiles, PWC's: Spray on wipe dry & polish to a high gloss. Also for gear... helmets, visors, goggles. Repels dirt, insects, snow ice and road grime.
Household: Patio furniture, spa and pool covers, vinyl liners & pool inflatables. Not for unfinished leathers (such as suede), fabrics (canvas) or floors.
Application:
Spray on, wetting the surface with 303. Wipe COMPLETELY dry. Turn cloth over to a dry area (or use a second clean, dry, absorbent cloth) and polish to remove any and all excess. Following these simple instructions.getting the surface wet (not just damp) with 303, then wiping COMPLETELY dry.will give you a beautiful, like-new finish that repels soiling and stains and LASTS LONGER.
KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN, STORE & USE ABOVE FREEZING.
303 is non-toxic, non-flammable.