My RWD VX :-(

Hey everyone,

I purchased my VX a couple months ago and haven't really challenged it much.
Today I got stuck in the snow trying to pull into a parking spot, a few people gathered around and watched. I the VX into 4L and to my surprise, only the rear wheels spin. According to my TOD lights, it is in 4WD mode... but it isn't.

I have also come to the realization that my TOD doesn't work at all, even when in standard AWD mode. I am always in 2WD. I really love my VX, and have already put a lot of work into her. I am not getting any error lights or anything like that. I am thinking the previous owner knew about this and failed to mention it.

So any ideas where I should start troubleshooting this? The nearest Isuzu Dealership is Columbus (like 60 miles away), I might drive there and drop it off when I find the time, but i would love to find a cheaper and more local solution.

I'd start at the front & work your way back...:yesgray:

Are there manual locking hubs on the front axle?
Are the half shafts intact on the front axle?
Is there a driveshaft from the transfer case to the front axle?
Is the wiring harness properly connected to the TOD computer?
Is the fuse for the TOD system blown or removed?
Any suspect switches in the interior, that might be a manual TOD cut off?
(I suspect not on the last two, since the indicator lights up)

Maybe search the VIN in the members list, to see if you could get some info from the previous owner(s)

:luck:

Ummm i did not think that there is a fuse for the tod...i could be wrong.

I am feeling that when my vx is in 4l i am not getting power to the front as well...could be just me though...

As Mr L suggested start from the front and work back.

Check your diffs vacuum hose as well.

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Originally Posted by Ldub

Is the fuse for the TOD system blown or removed?
Any suspect switches in the interior, that might be a manual TOD cut off?

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X2 I was thinking some kind of TOD cut off..

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Originally Posted by JKeopka

I am thinking the previous owner knew about this and failed to mention it.

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You're damn right he knew about, and it's probably the primary reason he sold the VX to you.:mado:

Thanks for all the suggestions, it looks like I have lots of places to check now. Over the next week or so I will try and figure this out. I will be sure to post the results.

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Originally Posted by JKeopka

Thanks for all the suggestions, it looks like I have lots of places to check now. Over the next week or so I will try and figure this out. I will be sure to post the results.

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Please do...I'm curious...:yesgray:..:confused:

Hmmm, anyone that sells you a 'Dragon Ironman' is probably not being entirely honest about that vehicle since there was no Ironman in the Dragon color.

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Originally Posted by VX crazy

Hmmm, anyone that sells you a 'Dragon Ironman' is probably not being entirely honest about that vehicle since there was no Ironman in the Dragon color.

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This may be the VX from Indy that the guy said was an Ironman and it started out White and someone painted it Dragon Green (including the cladding IIRC). Said he was selling because it was too small for his growing family...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

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Originally Posted by Mile High VX

This may be the VX from Indy that the guy said was an Ironman and it started out White and someone painted it Dragon Green (including the cladding IIRC). Said he was selling because it was too small for his growing family...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

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Sounds like the TOD decided to stay back with that growing family.... Dragon Ironman.... don't make me laugh. :p

JK, definitely post any findings. That is a pretty new one around here, as many folks would actually LOVE to have a RWD VX, heh. Good luck.

This exact thing happened to me while wheelin last time. My CV joint blew in half. There was no weird noises or clicking or anything, because the cage that surrounds the balls on the joint just blew apart. For a quick fix I just took out the CV and now am running 2wd and getting a ton better gas mileage. I have a newly rebuilt CV and CV cup/short shaft ready to go in as soon as I have the time. Good luck I should post some pics soon on this.

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Originally Posted by LittleBeast

This exact thing happened to me while wheelin last time. My CV joint blew in half. There was no weird noises or clicking or anything, because the cage that surrounds the balls on the joint just blew apart. For a quick fix I just took out the CV and now am running 2wd and getting a ton better gas mileage. I have a newly rebuilt CV and CV cup/short shaft ready to go in as soon as I have the time. Good luck I should post some pics soon on this.

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Bring it to the next Austin meet and we can all do that, havent done that before!

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Originally Posted by JKeopka

Thanks for all the suggestions, it looks like I have lots of places to check now.

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Well if it's RWD when you've got it in 4L you can skip the electrical/TOD stuff and concentrate on something mechanical - like the first three items on Ldub's list. Drive shafts don't ordinarily go missing but CV Joints are a weak spot - so you might want to start there. Hopefully that's all it is and not a broken chain or some other internal prob with the transfer case...

Just out of curiosity - when you put it in 4L, did that gear it down? It should still go into low range (about 2.5:1) even if power is not making it to the front.

My money is on a CV gone bad.
Unless you do have manual locking hubs or are missing a front driveshaft :yeso:

THE FIRST THING YOU SHOULD DO:

Make sure the VX is in 4H and park, crawl under the VX and try to move the front drive shaft. There should not be much play to it at all. A good healthy VX only has about 1/2" of turn (play) if any at all. If one of the CV's is blown or needing attention you will have quite a bit of loose feeling when you turn the shaft. If there is any weird noises or you can easily turn the front shaft (thing that attaches the TOD transfer case to the Differential) then you have CV issues. When my CV was blown I had about an inch of play. Checked someone else's VX at a meet and it had no play at all in the front drive shaft. After I replaced the front CV with the rebuilt one, I was close to no movement at all, but it still moved slightly, and then I came to learn that because I had driven around with the blown CV for so long it had damaged the Cup that goes into the Diff,

and so I have this sitting in the garage to do as soon as Aamco is done fixing there mistakes that should've been fixed 2 and a half years ago when they first rebuilt my tranny.

Lisa I can do the CV swap in about an hour now, but the differential short shaft cup (green inner cup) swap that goes into the Diff will take me a while at least a weekend or more, I have to drop my front diff again and this time I am going to replace both front seals. I don't mind doing this with some help, but it is a pain and I would rather do that in my garage at home, I have already done it once and have all the photos ready to post, but I have been super busy here lately.

Just to be sure...
Are you certain NO front wheel is spinning when in 4Lo? Your front diff is open and even when in 4Lo only one wheel will spin.
Yes, "4 wheel drive" is not "4" wheel drive!:bwgy: One of the biggest marketing lies out there...

I had rear drive only about two months ago. I only noticed it trying to back up hill in the snow. My top notch 'Zu guy found a half-shaft had a splined end totally stripped. I'm not sure exactly what part it was. I needed a new half-shaft. He was gonna show me the part, but I got there right at closing and didn't bother. Very costly, the part and mucho labor.

http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/...x7/cvshaft.gif

Mark

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Originally Posted by VX crazy

Hmmm, anyone that sells you a 'Dragon Ironman' is probably not being entirely honest about that vehicle since there was no Ironman in the Dragon color.

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I noticed that my insurance company has mine listed as a Proton Ironman. I tried to get them to correct it but I don't think they ever did.

That's crazy that you guys can't feel it in 4Lo. When I shift into 4Lo in my VX, I can idle up the side of a mountain. Meaning, I can FEEL the extra pull from the front end. If you can't feel that, there is definitely something wrong. Looks like everyone has got you on the right track though.

Bart

JKeopka,

Did you get this sussed out? Don't leave us hanging...

Dude... I'm losing sleep here...

I just installed a TOD on/off switch and my TOD display lights up whether the TOD is on or not. This is because I have the cable from the TOD ECU going to a 20 ohm resistor to trick the TOD ECU into thinking that it's connected and not give a bunch of error lights. Apparently, the electronics that operate the TOD lights come from the TOD ECU and not the TOD clutch or solenoid. So the TOD display is telling you how much power the TOD ECU is sending, not how much is acctually getting there.

First, as has been suggested, look for an unmarked switch. I can't feel any difference when mine is switched, so you may not be able to tell what it does right away. Maybe take it off road.

Second, take out your passenger seat and look at the electronic thing that looks like a small amp. That's the TOD ECU. If the light blue wire that is coming out of it has been diverted, then that is your issue. You either need to reattach it or connect it to a switch. I would recommend the switch assuming that it was diverted, in the first place, for a reason.

^^^^^ Good thinking
Didn't even think of the previous owner installing a TOD On/Off switch.

Do the lights move up and down when slipping in AWD mode? If not, that could be your simple fix.

Edit: Wait MattLewis your TOD lights actually do light up when slipping? Then I guess you will have to check under the seat. My TOD ON/OFF switch sends me a "Check TOD" Light I thought the resistor just got rid of the check light not actually make it look as if TOD was working.