rear speaker install question

Well, finally getting around to upgrading the rear speakers with 6.5 inchers. Have a question for those of you that have done it. I am having a interference issue with the magnet and bodywork. Of course I can take a BFH and knock the sheet metal in, but is there enough room between the speaker and the speaker grill to put a spacer between the speaker and speaker mount? Hence, moving the speaker closer to the grill and away from the bodywork. I have the interior stripped out completely so can't really do a trial and fit exercise.

I have swapped out my rear speakers and I found no there is not enough clearance without modification. I put in Kenwood 4.5" 2-way speakers and they sound great no modification no hassle.

Here is a photo of the spacer. It is 1/4 inch. Just hope I don't have a interference with the interior panel. The speaker depth is 2.25 but for some reason the magnet is hitting the sheet metal.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../IMG_00152.JPG

not positive rowhard. but im pretty sure you should have about 1.5" of clearance in front of the speaker before you have issues...

my guess would be that your inner part of your panel probably has some plastic pieces that may be in the way though...my have to dremmel a little where you cant see it anyways

Thanks PBKid. Think the problem with these speakers is the size of the magnet, much larger then the OEM. Anyway, when using the supplied mounting ring, have about 3/8 between magnet and sheet metal. Now, to fix the static in the radio. Ant. mount seems fine, did fix the sizzle when applying brakes. Amp for sub seems fine too.

hmm... static in radio or any kind of amplifier interference in 90% of the time a grounding issue...

so, check the ground on the antenna, and all connections.

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Originally Posted by pbkid

check the ground on the antenna, and all connections.

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Been doing that, even ran a jumper to ground from the ant. Any idea what the blue wire is for since I guess out ant is not powered?

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Originally Posted by rowhard

Been doing that, even ran a jumper to ground from the ant. Any idea what the blue wire is for since I guess out ant is not powered?

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Hmm our stock antenna does have a little blue wire that runs up to it, just like a powered antenna, but of course for our one it is to get a stronger signal?
i didnt have mine connected at first then realised what it was so connected it and the reception was much better

The manual says the blue wire in the connector behind the radio isn't used. Maybe it's just there for use if an aftermarket power antenna is ever installed?

At the antenna location/connector(s), is there just a blue wire and an antenna coax?

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Originally Posted by Y33TREKker

At the antenna location/connector(s), is there just a blue wire and an antenna coax?

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Yes there is but it's not hot.

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Originally Posted by rowhard

...Now, to fix the static in the radio. Ant. mount seems fine, did fix the sizzle when applying brakes.

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There are a couple of noise suppression filters in the brake light circuit. Any chance one of those got unplugged during the install process? One of them is behind the left kick panel is the drivers' foot well, the other is behind the roof panel in the center, up where the antenna would be. (It would have red and white wires going into the connector).

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Originally Posted by Y33TREKker

the other is behind the roof panel in the center, up where the antenna would be. (It would have red and white wires going into the connector).

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I will go look right now, I don't remember seeing it which might be the problem.

Just checked and it is connected.

i believe the antenna is powered for am radio, not sure where it gets power from since the blue wire off the back of the radio harness is not used. but i definitely remember reading about poor am reception when that wire was disconnected.

as far as the rear speakers, i used low profile door speakers back there and they fit well, mine also had the two way tweeter that stuck out maybe 1 inch past the mounting surface of the speaker, so if needed you could probably put a spacer ring under the speaker to install it and get the magnet up off the fender

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Originally Posted by rowhard

I will go look right now, I don't remember seeing it which might be the problem.

Just checked and it is connected.

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That figures. It's hardly ever the easy stuff.

Are we still talking about the stock head unit? I noticed you said you have an amp for your sub, so is it safe to assume there's an aftermarket head unit too? A good ground strap/connection for the head unit never hurts.

As far as the sub amp goes, is there any type of noise suppression on the power feed for the amp? Inductive interference caused by speaker wires running too close or parallel to power leads can cause radio noise, so a noise suppressor on the power feed near the amp, or re-routing speaker wires or power leads (whichever is easiest) can sometimes cure the problem.

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Originally Posted by etlsport

i believe the antenna is powered for am radio, not sure where it gets power from since the blue wire off the back of the radio harness is not used. but i definitely remember reading about poor am reception when that wire was disconnected.

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Poor reception caused by that wire being disconnected may have just been a matter of the different types of antennas used for AM and FM reception. FM reception is better achieved using some sort of aerial antenna, but AM reception can be had using a simple piece of coiled wire, so maybe that blue wire running through the vehicle from the radio to the back spoiler area is actually used as an AM antenna lead?

the antenna on the vehicross should be un-powered but im not positive about that.

the 'blue' wire coming out an aftermarket radio is used for powered antenna's (our's may be powered even though it doesnt move)

rowhard- the 'car side' of the blue wire would not be hot because its an input. and it expects 12v when the stereo is turned to the radio function.
honestly, i would hook up the blue wire out of your radio into the 'car side' of the blue and see if it helps your reception.
pretty much you can look at the other side of the connector and see if there is a wire going into the car or not. if there is a wire going out of the stereo connector into the car then its necessary for the 'ant. turn on' to be hooked up.

Jack, aren't our little shorty antennae's "amplified"? Could that be the "power" going to the antennae?

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Originally Posted by Y33TREKker

That figures. It's hardly ever the easy stuff.

Are we still talking about the stock head unit? I noticed you said you have an amp for your sub, so is it safe to assume there's an aftermarket head unit too? A good ground strap/connection for the head unit never hurts.

As far as the sub amp goes, is there any type of noise suppression on the power feed for the amp? Inductive interference caused by speaker wires running too close or parallel to power leads can cause radio noise, so a noise suppressor on the power feed near the amp, or re-routing speaker wires or power leads (whichever is easiest) can sometimes cure the problem.

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Aftermarket head unit, Pioneer something or other. No noise suppression on power feed, but it wasn't a problem before the body work. I did try it with the fuse removed, so no power to sub amp and still had the static with ant. disconnected at back, and when I reconnected it, static went off the chart. VX in the garage but it was raining and that seems to make it worse.:upsetgray

Have you tried a new ant. ? Also with an aftermarket head unit the cable for the ant. connects on the opposite side and requires an extension to reach it...maybe it is not connected completely (or if they tried stretching the original cable to fit it might be pulling partially out).

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Originally Posted by rowhard

Aftermarket head unit, Pioneer something or other. No noise suppression on power feed, but it wasn't a problem before the body work. I did try it with the fuse removed, so no power to sub amp and still had the static with ant. disconnected at back, and when I reconnected it, static went off the chart. VX in the garage but it was raining and that seems to make it worse.:upsetgray

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What kind of body work was done? (Sorry if you've already mentioned it somewhere here on the board and I missed it.)

Rowhard: So bottom line is what depth can I go to behind the speaker and how far in front before hitting the plastic panel? I went to Best Buy looking at a few 3-way 6.5 inch speakers and then chickened out when I didnt know the distances. (all the boxes have the rear depth listed on them so that will be easy once I know..I have my scroll saw so I can cut the larger hole. Just unsure of depths.

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Originally Posted by wekilled

Rowhard: So bottom line is what depth can I go to behind the speaker and how far in front before hitting the plastic panel? I went to Best Buy looking at a few 3-way 6.5 inch speakers and then chickened out when I didnt know the distances. (all the boxes have the rear depth listed on them so that will be easy once I know..I have my scroll saw so I can cut the larger hole. Just unsure of depths.

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http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...at/3257/page/2

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...hp/photo/12044

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...hp/photo/12043

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...hp/photo/12039

Max mounting depth without modification = 2"

See photos above to see how amazingly close 2" will be, literally it is 1-2mm from contacting the wheel well.
As you can see from the thread below, I used the included speaker grilles on my install, and just had to remove the stock VX black mesh and cut a little plastic off the factory VX speaker grille. In the end I think it looks better this way, just remember to move the yellow insulation stuff out of the way or it will look bad :)
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...943#post135943

Well, appreciate all the help! I am going for it, my speakers are officially blown and its time!

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Originally Posted by wekilled

my speakers are officially blown and its time!

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Musta been your big nuts causing overpressure in the cabin.:)