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im now over 80k miles.. my vx is growing up so fast!
heres my question.. my last 40k have been run with mobil1 full synthetic almost exclusively.. (5w30 and 10w30 depending on season/availability) but now im wondering if it would be better to switch to high mileage formulas or to just stick with regular synthetic.. i havent seen a high mileage specific synthetic.. anyone make one of them?
and i always run a mobil1 filter (except this last change, i got a K&N oil filter at a great price)
Hi eric !
It's a good question,i think it all depends on your perception about if your believe high mileage oil formulas really do the job it was design for;I recall driving my little GEO tracker with more the 100R & used regular oil & never had any issues.
All high mileage oil products just says it's design for the high mileage cars,but doesn't certainly explains whats differs from the regular oil products & they all cost the same price so i don't get it :?:
I guess expert advice is the way to go to clear any doubts
My 2 cents is that oil makers are wanting to cover every field they can, since cars are lasting longer than from the 70's/early 80's there marketing High Mileage, Heavy use, Higher RPM's, SUV, Light Truck, Heavy Truck etc... Is there much or any difference I don't know...But as we all know the oil companies can do and say anything they want with minimal regulations from the government... I'm at 152k miles and have used Mobil1 for the last 70k and I don't see myself ever changing brands/types. 5w-30 Winter and 15w-50 in the summer. They do make a High Mileage 10w-30 and 10w-40
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...s/Mobil_1.aspx
I use high mileage GTX 10w 30 in my Isuzu Amigo which has 115,000 miles.
I switched from Mobile 1 at around 80,000.
I don't know if it helps. I don't see any difference.
But advertising works. It makes you think that you are doing something special for your vehicle.
i use 10w-40 high milage oil and works great, the diffrence i have seen sence starting to use it for the past 2 years is i have seen better milage, not much but a little better, and most noticeable is the burning of the oil, it does not burn as much thats it, and i got a oil gasket cracked before on the oil pan when i hit a rock and it starting leacking through and thats when i chanced to 10w-40 high milage and what i saw also it stop leaking, so i guess it's thicker as well. but i have been thinking if i should change to full synthetic soon, to see if i see a diffrence.
Not sure what the PO used, but I use Quaker State 4x4 Torque synthetic. It is a bit cheaper than the Castrol synthetic, but I use it in both my toys. Another good question, how about oil filters, I personally use the FRAM tough filter, but I am gonna guess that they are all about the same.
Speaking of maintenance, I replaced my fuel filter today, I swear it runs better and better throttle response. I am pretty sure it was the original filter at 117K miles.;eeky;
My fuel pressure regulator will be here tuesday. Cleaned the TPS, which wasn't really all that dirty. New dielectric grease in most of the connections under the hood.
All in all, as far as oil, I think that as long as you do it regularly and use the appropriate weight for your weather, they probably all work out the same. (I am still gonna run synthetic)
That oil seems to be good quality though,i consider this # 1 on my list if mobil 1 ever ran out of stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
80K isn't high mileage, at least not in my book. I use Mobil One in my Trooper, 128K miles, doesn't burn any oil so no reason to change.
if you have a formula that works, then there is no reason to change.
you might see some detrimental effects switching from regular oil to synthetic on higher mileage vehicles because sludge builds up around the gaskets and in crevices with regular oil and synthetic will clear that out, and while that might sound like a good thing, consider that the build up also keeps those areas from seeping oil...
I've had more than one car that started burning and leaking oil after switching to synthetic.
some older sensors have problems with synthetic oil as well and the synthetics can gum them up... I have a friend who is a Subaru Technician, apparently the owners manuals stated to NOT used ANY synthetics in their motors, and there are only certain tested brands that they'll let you use without voiding your warranty.
synthetics are nice sometimes but it's not a clear cut better oil than the regular stuff.
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as for filters, they're much more important than the oil you use... every mechanic and oil filter comparison I've seen has revealed 2 things
1. there are really only 4-5 filter manufacturers and most companies buy one of those and re brand it, (though there are sometimes subtle differences)
2. 90% of the filters out there are COMPLETE GARBAGE
kind of old but here is some good info on picking the right oil filter:
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ers/index.html
I use either K&N, Mobile 1 or Purolator in my cars, depending on which one I can get cheaper (they all have the same manufacturer). though the best filter you can get is made by "WIX" who make filters for most OEMs as well as the generic NAPA band.
FRAM is down right horrible, you'd be better off stuffing cheesecloth in a can.
I buy the regular 10W40 or the the High Mileage stuff. I actually think the High Mileage formula runs pretty good in my VX.
Bart
A VX forum member posted link to this study a while back, can't recall who it was, but it certainly gives you clearer understanding of the differences between oil filters and confirms there are big differences.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
I just picked up a Royal Purple oil filter at Pep Boys, first time I've seen one by RP. I'll use it next oil change.
My VX runs with Royal Purple 10w30 w/ Fram filter. I just gave her a fresh change yesterday in the garage actually. Of course my VX only gets about 3k miles a year and 1 oil change a year. Each change I am always draining very clean oil that looks like it could go another 3k and am usually only 1/4 to 1/2 qt low, if at all. 49k on the clock.
I don't really fall for that "older vehicles should use a different oil". I have had vehicles with up to near 200k on the clock and none of them even used synthetic. Never had any major engine issues with any of them. I gave one ('90 Amigo) a valve job just to relieve some slight knocking but it wasn't really needed. I guess if this "geriatric vehicle oil" is no different in price, it wouldn't hurt, but I certainly wouldn't pay any more. Maybe the stuff works as advertised, I dunno. Never used it, heh. I would definitely research it to see just what the advantages are if I decided to though.
[QUOTE=WormGod;153833]My VX runs with Royal Purple 10w30 w/ Fram filter. I just gave her a fresh change yesterday in the garage actually. Of course my VX only gets about 3k miles a year and 1 oil change a year. Each change I am always draining very clean oil that looks like it could go another 3k and am usually only 1/4 to 1/2 qt low, if at all. 49k on the clock.
QUOTE]
How it run wormgod? i've been thinking of putting that on, but was not sure if it was to rich.
Ive been using "regular" mobil one since i bought my truck (had around 55k on it iirc).. i now have 174k on the clock, no issues and runs no different than it did at 55k...oil changes every 5k, 98% highway driving..
maybe i should switch to high mileage oil now.... :)
Hey everyone... figured I'd chime in on this one. This topic was always of interest to me and a few years back I finally sat down and researched the crap out of it as I got tired of the guesswork and needed certain answers.
First of all, I'll apologize up front for this is going to be a LONG POST!
TO ANYONE CURRENTLY USING FRAM OIL FILTERS IN THEIR VEHICLES:
Remove that piece of sh*t now! It is absolutely one of the worst things you can use in your Vx/vehicle! Remove it, even if you still have plenty of miles left 'till your oil change or just did a fresh one. Those FRAM filters have many weak points almost on every level - flow rate, efficiency, structural integrity (collapsing), etc...
>> FILTERS
I've done a veeery extensive search on the filters (short of bench-testing) and pretty much concluded that I will only use one of the two brands of oil filters.
Mobil 1
Purolator PureONE
Both filters are the same in a sense that they outperform pretty much anything else out there, but there is a slight difference between the two:
- Mobil 1 has a high-flow rate: that is the amount of oil per minute through the filter
- PureONE has a higher density material and able to capture particles smaller that Mobil 1, but the trade off is your flow rate is lower so you don't pump as many gallons per minute as Mobil 1
So you've got to ask what vehicle will perform better with which oil filter.
On my 1993 Mazda RX7 and Vx I use Mobil 1 because I tend to keep it closer to redline ;)
On my Econolines at work we use PureOne since it's mostly low RP, idling, etc..
>> OIL
I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 on the Vx that I switched back when my mileage was in high 50's. It gradually increased fuel economy and noticeably "livelier" motor response. I mean she zooms! And that's not easy for a vehicle like Vx with 4wd and that much weight.
BTW, whenever you go from mineral to synthetic oil, you should do that in stages, adding more synthetic blend (25-30%) each oil change until full synthetic.. and you want to do it around 50k or so while the motor is still fresh. For motors over 75k I'd probably just stick with the stuff you're already using.
On all my other vehicles I use Castrol GTX 5w-30, 10w-30 because it is a good performing mineral oil. It doesn't break down like Quaker state or Pennzoil, imho. We use Castrol GTX on our vans because it is budget-friendly and I use it on my RX7 because I can't use synthetic in a rotary motor.
Now, for those who don't know - RX7s are very sensitive to the kind of oil you use because it is such a major part of engine operation (it actually injects oil with fuel.. so burning oil is part of the FI process, not just lubrication). So when you change to a different brand, you notice it. Personally, the best results I got was with Castrol GTX by far. Didn't burn as much, motor ran smoother... "lighter" - quicker throttle response, temperatures a lot more consistent. Other brans I used were Valvoline, Pennzoil, and Quaker State and I've have two Rx7s that I've driven in Central Florida since 1997 so I've got enough years of experimentation ;)
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So I hope this helps. Please remember that the feedback I posted here is based on my personal experience. It may vary for others. Sorry again for the long post but remembering my personal turmoil of not knowing for sure I will jump at the opportunity to share my experience with others the best I can.
Cheers!
My neighbor has a 1995 Ford Taurus - it's hitting like 385k - he uses Castrol GTX high mileage oil, every 2k miles religiously. It's a POS car but it runs like a champ!
You are absolutely right,mobil 1 filter is the way to go,i don't play games with that stuff neither.Quote:
Originally Posted by bentcipher
My VX is 560 miles away from new oil change & already bought my 6 pack bottle mobil 1 10w-30 with filter. The filter # is M 1104 for you guys who wanna give a try.
I'll make that few miles comes shorter,i'll be driving to binghampton (upstate NY) 380 miles round trip on friday morning to vist few friends & also take some pics of the rampage that took place at the inmigration helping center guys
Is that Mobil 1 filter the "longer" variety? I read somewhere that you can upgrade to a longer filter; the one on my VX is like 3 inches long...
thats the same article I posted earlier in this thread :PQuote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
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is there a reason you all use 10W30/40 as opposed to the 5W30 that the owners manual specifies?
While I'm not sure what each of the specific abbreviations in the Typical Properties sections refers to, it does appear as if there are differences in the formulations of regular vs. high mileage oils offered by Mobil-1.
The Features - Advantages and Potential Benefits section also give brief laymens descriptions of what the formulation is intended to do.
Mobil 1 - Regular 10W-30 Synthetic
Mobil 1 - High Mileage 10W-30 & 10W-40 Synthetics
My $.02 on that filter study would be that the date of the study would also have to be considered (filter technology changes just like everything else), plus, not every filter in a filter companys' lineup is made by that same company. There are a few companies that make filters, and they put whatever label a second company that buys those filters for resale wants them to. Is it not curious that some of those filters look just like their competitors when taken apart? Basically, if you buy a cheap filter, you generally get what you pay for, but if you spring for a more expensive filter, (even by the same "company/manufacturer", you'll generally get a better product.
I think the main comparison between dino (regular) oils and synthetics is that while the viscosities may be listed as being the same, it's how each one flows at it's rated temperature extremes that is most important. We've all probably either added oil to or changed oil in an engine when the snow has been flying at some point, and seen how the pour-rate of a dino oil changes at those lower temps. Well that's also how it flows through an engine at those lower temps until it gets heated up. Synthetics don't have that problem since their viscosities are engineered to remain more constant through their rated temperature extremes, meaning that they simply flow better when cold, and don't get thinner/break-down as much when hot when compared to dino oils. As a result, they offer more consistent engine protection.
(That's also why a 10W-30 or 10W-40 synthetic can be used in place of a regular 5W-30 oil. With more and more vehicles using engines with overhead cam systems, etc, synthetics can get to all the places it needs to easier because of the more consistent flow rates).
Oops, my bad...since the link was different, I "assumed" it was different.
I use carquest filters as they are made by Wix . shawn
The one thing i became aware of is that the 'high mileage' oils tend to have additives that 'address' your oil seals. In other words, stuff in it that helps swell up 'old' seals and gaskets thus helping to prevent drying out gaskets and minimizing oil leaks. Other than that, don't know what else is different about them.
I've used Mobil1 M1-104 filters since my first oil change, and I've now got 117,500 on my VX. I did a Google search a few minutes ago and found a thread on the Acura MDX site where a guy says he was able to install the longer M1-105 filter on his MDX. I've got my last M1-104 sitting on the shelf, so I may try to find an M1-105 for my 120K tuneup.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGanzman
cool! def report how that goes.. the M1-104 filter is so hard to find around here since its such a common filter.. my local advanced was out of stock for like 2 weeks during their last mobil1 oil change specialQuote:
Originally Posted by Cobrajet
FROM AN EDMONDS BLOG ON ULTIMATE AWD --
Please be advised that Castrol Syntec 5W-30 DOES NOT meet the necessary oil specifications required for any BMW built since at least the late 1990s. Running that oil is a recipe for a sludged engine and a refusal from your dealership/BMW for warranty repairs if/when the engine fails. The only Castrol Syntec that meets the BMW LongLife-98 and LongLife-01 oil specifications (equired for every gasoline powered BMW sold this decade is Syntec 0W-30. That said, you can buy a Castrol produced oil under the BMW label from your dealership that is in fact a 5W-30, but make no mistake, that is NOT the same oil as is in the Castrol Syntec 5W-30 bottle.
For all who buy their own oil, the only two generally available LL-01 oils sold here in the U.S. are Mobil 1 0W-40 and Castrol Syntec 0W-30.
Best regards,
Shipo
so, just wondering.. Are the 3.5L v6 used in the vehi the same ones used in the troopers? do most of you guys have oil burning problems?
Just as an FYI - I just did my first oil change on my 60K mile VX, and installed the M1-105 filter (also filled up with slightly over 5 quarts of Mobil 1 10W-30 Full Synthetic). Seems to be fine, with no leaks, though the "O-Ring" style gasket and larger diameter concerned me initially. Also, the larger diameter puts the filter w/in 1/4" of the harmonic balancer; I don't think this will be a problem though, since even if the engine "torqued" upon heavy acceleration, it SHOULD torque AWAY from the filter. Has anyone else gone to the larger Mobil 1 M1-105 filter yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrajet
Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
Makes a synthetic for high mileage
I'm still using Castrol Syntec, but the 0w30 'europeon formula' since it's supposed to be a 'group 4' synthetic. Used 10w30 syntec up til a couple years ago. Since i change my oil so often (try to stay close to 2500 miles each time) I suppose it doesn't really matter. Have only used the Mobil 1 filter too. The Mobil M-105 filter fits the VX and is a little longer than the one originally spec'd for it, the M-104. As expensive as oil can be, it's still cheap in mho. Scott
I started using that same viscosity oil,the horse gets warmer a bit faster so it will be my spring/summer oil whist fall/winter would be 0W-20 also by mobil 1Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeVenom
Ok I just got a VX last month and I really love it but I bought it with very high mileage and it needs a bit of work- I know that the previous owner just used regular oil... I am wondering if it is worth it to switch to synthetic at this point. I am ask because I heard that unless a vehicle owner used synth from the start, then the bennifits of using the synthetic oil wont be attainable.
What do you guys think?
p.s. I just hit 140k and I would like it to go another 140k
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronk
Hi Aaronk.
You definately should go do that;Mobil 1 is the way to go. 5w-30 for starters.
Another thing you can have done is adding a bottle of sea foam when you are about to have a the last oil change before switching,which will help remove a lot of gunk within the engine.After that oil change the mobil 1 high mileage formula helps sealing gaskets & seals.If more info about the sea foam is needed use the "Search" button & type the word "sea foam"
We have meet on the 25th this month in rockaway,northern NJ.
Hope you wanna join us.If you do go to the tri-state area & PA meet thread & drop your sign there,all the info you need is there.
Again,welcome to hood ;)
if you are going to switch to synthetic i would say go for it.. the synthetic oil is going to release a lot of crud from inside your engine though, so i would recommend doing an oil change after 1000 miles the first time you switch, after that just regular intervals
i actually did find mobil1 full synthetic high mileage at advanced auto, so thats going in today.. best of both worlds
all done purring like a kitten... i forgot how easy doing an oil change on the VX is :thumbup:
Good advice Gussie2000 and etslsport - yeah, I am definitely going to switch to the synth - thanks so much for the quick responses and good advice ! Will look up the sea foam and do a quick change after 1000 miles.
Also Gussie - I am going to make it to Northern NJ meet up - I just changed out my shocks to Bilsteins and I am no longer afraid to drive through the wreck of the a highway running through the Bronx !
cool, look forward to seeing you aaron, if you want we can even do the seafoam treatment while we are at the meet, ive done it on my vx 4-5 times now.. becoming a pro at it.. so if you want to bring 2 cans of it we can take care of it there, only tool needed is a funnel which i can bring if you want
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronk
Great aaronk !
Tell me about it;NYC highways are all wrecking of roads
The grand central parkway is the only highway in the US with bumps to slow drivers,i hope the book of record guinness have that info.......What a proud :thumbdn:
Was a plesaure;See you soon :bgwo: