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For those that have used CarSystem Refinish Restorer....does it seem to make more dirt cling to the cladding?
I've tried Back to Black and Stoner Trim Shine....but both seem to make dirt (from from fabulous dirt road I live on) REALLY cling to it...literally covers it solid usually from doors rearward.
Since, the dirt road ain't goin' anywhere, I've just got to find a product that doesn't make it cling like crazy. Any suggestions?http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN1567.jpg
Dirt does NOT cling :)
Warning though, apply it very well the first time. And DO NOT apply in 90 degree weather. Mine is beginning to need a redo on a couple bits I didn't do as well.
Ditto... no dirt clinging at all.
Keep in mind, it's not a "dressing" for the plastic - it's closer to a clear-coat paint than anything else. It does not seem to wear off at any noticable rate.
Thanks so much for confirming that, I think that's my next purchase. I did think it was kind of a sealer not a dressing that would be tacky or sticky at all, but I wasn't sure.
Does it tend to darken the cladding at all? :?:
Well, I just got my supply of this stuff today, we'll see if its all that is cracked up to be.
Well, I just unpacked it. It tells me in 6 languages what it does. It tells me in 7 languages about safety, but I don't have a bloody clue on how to use it. Where are the instructions??
ROWHARD--- For the official manufacturer's instructions, do a "search" for: ALTERNATIVE GATORBACK ,then specifically look at thread posting #30.
I don't know how to add a direct link to that specific thread, but the above "search" route will immediately get you there. Aim High!!!
Here's the link to the .pdf file.
http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files...estorer_gb.pdf
Think a foam type paint brush would work OK for application?
when you are on the page that you want to move....copy the URL at the top of your browser...then paste into the thread ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
Thanks, I saw that, but the prep seemed vague. Do I need to try and get all of the other crap off that I have tried.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Um, I don't think so from my experience, but I can't say for sure. I used a terrycloth rag which worked pretty well. I bristle-type paint brush would probably work well.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
I would try to get any other products off if they are freshly applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by rowhard
I'm gonna buy some of this stuff too, even though my cladding still looks like new. My advice for "prepping" is BrakeKleen (in the red can) - it will remove EVERYTHING that is on there, and leave ZERO residual - you'll have a perfect palette for this product, IMHO...
Wouldn't BrakeKleen be a little too harsh for the cladding? If that is the stuff that is made to clean gunk off of engine blocks it may melt the cladding. I would try it on a hidden area first to make sure it doesn't do any damage.
Categorically NOT the same thing! It's primarily designed to clean off drum/disc brake surfaces and brake parts prior to reassembly; as such, it's designed to leave NO chemical residue whatsoever! While it is invasive on SOME plastics, I don't think there would be a problem on the cladding - of course, try it in an inconspicuous place first...Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHardeman
What about using Windex to prep it? I recall somebody has been using Windex on the cladding to make it look good. So it apparently doesn't dry it out too bad...maybe it would be a pretty good prep solution to get off most of the "oily" type products we've put on it (Back to Black, etc...) :?:
If you have used a silicon-based product in the last year, I would try to clean it off first. Any wild organic solvent will work for that.
The "oily products" come off by themselves (which is their problem, of course). If you put any of them on recently, then maybe it would be worth removing prior to refinishing. Brakekleen sounds like it would be way too harsh!
Otherwise, just wash normally & dry thoroughly. Be mindful of the Torx-head cladding screws - use compressed air to get the water out of them. Water seemed to make the product go on somewhat unevenly.
We have a lot of blueberry patches around here, is that organic enough:confused: I suppose if I lived in Florida I could use oranges:bwgr::bgwp:Quote:
Originally Posted by VehiGAZ
If all else fails, how about some TSP soap:_thinking
LOL!!! Make that a MILD organic solvent...Quote:
Originally Posted by rowhard
ROWHARD--- I would try the WINDEX idea first on a sample cladding location, as it is an extremely "mild" cleaner and won't harm anything. If that doesn't work well; then upgrade to 409 Cleaner, as 409 is a bit more powerful than WINDEX. It is always wiser to begin with a mild type cleaner, and then gradually upgrade to a stronger cleaner as required to accomplish the mission. SIMPLE GREEN; might be an option, too. AIM HIGH!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Now, I do hope this stuff last as long as some of you have said cause it don't look half bad.:gring:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../IMG_00037.JPG
Seems like application is swirly and uneven, does it come off? Definately looks better than grey washed out side but looks like you have put nothing on bad cladding for long time. I use Back to Black and it does collect dust somewhat but nothing seems to be perfect for the cladding IMO. Definaely looks better than nothing on the cladding.
no, actually I did it everytime I washed it. with different products. the undone cladding looks that way caused I used a strong chemical cleaned to get all the old product off of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by VXNIT
The first coat just goes on that way. a second (or third) coat will coat over any swirls or streaks. You want a lint free cloth to put this on, and thin multiple coats is the way to go. Try to put it on with as uniform a wipe as you can, dont change direction or do swirls. I went a section of cladding at a time and waited the 10 mins and wiped off then put on additional coats until it looked "right" then moved on to the next section. A little goes a loong way. I have had it on mine for almost seven months and it still shines up nicely. Invest in a few hours putting this on and do it right, and you'll just need to treat your cladding once or twice a year (depending on weather conditions/how hard you ride her) instead of every other month like most of the other stuff (back to black, tire shine, clear coat wax, ICE)
Phantom, did you wax once you got it right to get a high sheen look? Step seven says you can
ROWHARD--- Nice pic's. I like the "half-n-half" look to show us "before-n-after".
Incidentally, did the Body Shop do a good job on your VX from the Winter incident??? Did you ever get your antenna "buzzing" sound corrected??? AIM HIGH!!!
Yea, I thought it would help anyone that is sitting on the fence that doesn't want to spend the money. Seems like a good product.Quote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
No, and no. It needs to go back and have the hood resprayed, I still have the buzz from what ever them did, they also fried the rear dome light I had installed and a 18 work day job turned into 25. Don't think I will go back or recommend them.
Busted :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anita
How that isn't for me
Hope that isn't for meQuote:
Originally Posted by Anita
No, for a spammer who is no longer among us...
back on topic... I put this stuff on my VX last fall... and the cladding still looks great even after driving it daily through the hard New England Winter and dozens of washes :D
it's hard to say if it's faded at all... but let me at least say that it doesn't even need to be freshened up or anything...
FWIW I pained it on... basically took a horsehair brush and a small hand held paint container and pained the cladding with it, after 15 minutes I wiped it all off with a shop rag.
it didn't damage the paint or any of the bumper lights
one bad thing is that it pooled up a little bit in a couple of the bolt holes, I think I didn't wipe it out as well as I could have and there are 2 bolts that have a 1/2" drip streak below them (which has also lasted the winter and is still visible today) but the rest of them came out a-ok... so just make sure you wipe it off well.
everyone thinks my VX is a brand new car... they're shocked when I tell them it's 10 years old and has 120 thousand miles on it :bwgy:
I put the Restore/Refinish by CARSYSTEM on all my cladding, it's AMAZING STUFF! Cladding has a bit of a satin finish and a touch darker.
PROCESS:
~I Windexed all the cladding first to get ANY remaining, anything off. I'd let my cladding go naked for a full 2 months now, in preparation for this R/R stuff, so it was pretty dried out.
~Then rubbed down with plain water on lint-free microfiber cloth.
~I used painter's tape to tape off all painted areas adjacent to cladding.
~I poured some of the R/R into a small metal tin can.
~WEAR GLOVES ! Do in very well ventilated area! Strong stuff! I did it in garage with door open.
~I dipped part of a folded microfiber cloth (80/20%) that was lint-free into the R/R liquid. Shook off excess dripping liquid.
~Applied it to cladding in horizontal strokes, as evenly as possible.
~I discovered by doing it with a cloth instead of a paintbrush of any kind, you don't get any excess liquid pooling in the cladding screws, and no running of the liquid anywhere.
~You'll want to get this stuff on and spread evenly. The directions say to wait 10 minutes then rub off excess with another clean lint-free cloth. When I first tried to do so, I found the surface was pretty tacky and the cloth just kind of stuck to it and disrupted the smooth finish and made marks. So, I quickly realized, by applying it with the cloth, there really is NO EXCESS to remove.
~Reapplied a 2nd coat to areas I smudged up with the dry cloth.
~Did all remaining cladding panels.
~Applied to hood insert. This was the hardest part to apply in even strokes, just 'cause it's awkward...but you taller folks will have no problem.
~When back door was open to get access to all parts of rear cladding, I decided this stuff just might be good for some INTERIOR areas too.
~So I applied it to rear door interior panel and it looked great!
~My rear door threshold area is quite scuffed, so I applied it heavily there too. Worked great.
~Also applied several coats to the door thresholds/sill areas.
~Let it dry overnight in garage.
~Entire garage still had pretty strong fumes in am.
~Applied second coat next day.
~Also did interior door panels, just one coat.
~Think I'm going to do the interior from front seats rearward.
~It looks fantastic. Nice satin finish, not too shiny. Makes it look like brand new.
TIPS:
**Because this stuff gets pretty sticky/tacky as it's drying, EVERY little airborne particle will stick to it before it's dry. So expect a few hairs, specs etc...I have a few. Keep cotton towels AWAY from area, the little lint balls that shed from them kept getting stuck in the stuff.
**A little goes a LONG LONG way, as everyone else has said! It's a one liter can, which is just a hair over one quart (33.82 oz). After applying two coats all the way around, and a few interior panels. I MAY have used about 5 oz.
**I don't know if the heat will affect the stuff on the hood insert over time. I didn't see any warning not to do it there.
**I'm letting it sit with open windows to air it out.
It sure was $52 bucks well spent!
I've been wearing mine for 8 months now. I put on 3 or 4 coats, but it looks as good as when it first went on...great product! Now....what do I do with the $250.00 worth of Gator coating I'd bought? hahahahaha
how much you want to sell it for? I am going to take a medium followed by a fine scotch brite pads to remove all of the blemishes, cowboy pinstrips, what have you then refinish it. It's either the Gatorback or paint it with cladding paint, little more involved, but will be good when done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper
Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Hey sue can you tell me where did you bought the kit ?
I'm interested doing the same application with my cladding.
I've been using this black out silicone formula since i bought my horse.
It takes me around 10 minutes to apply the silicone,thereafter i use a clean towel just to removed any accumulated dust & pollen to keep shiny :o
Here ya go Gussie!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gussie2000
http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya.../carere1l.html
I think this is the only place any of us have found to buy this stuff. If I could find a place to get a secure metal canister that wouldn't leak I'd be able to sell you half of mine. Like I said I used maybe 5 oz of the 33+ oz in can. I'm going to do some of Dave's trim on the FJ, but still I'll NEVER use all this stuff. This can came with a seal inside the top (like the kind on milk cartons now with the pull tab ring). Want me to look into seeing if I can find an appropriate type of can to ship it in?
Hi, folks, I applied R/R on my VX last week-end and made a bad mistake... applied with a brush, and decided to take a break before wiping off the excess... unfortunately, a football game was on tv and l lost control of the time... :( when I came back, it turned out R/R already dried up and it was impossible to wipe it off... and now I have ugly streaks all over my plastic, which also collected some dust and do look awful... :(
any suggestions on how to deal with this will be very much appreciated!
In an area that is least noticable, try re-applying a fresh coat with a sponge or wax applicator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Petos
You might get lucky, & find that the restorer, in liquid form, MAY dissolve the dried stuff & even out the appearance...:luck:
I have no experience with this stuff, so it's a WAG on my part...:_confused
PETOS--- Refinish Restorer turns into a varnish-like hard coating very simular to varnished wood furniture if not buffed-off within 10 minutes (per instructions) after application.
Excess build-up can be removed with a "terpintine substitute" per the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, use paint thinner on a rag and lots and lots of elbow grease to get it off. Be sure and wear a face mask or enjoy getting high off the paint thinner fumes.
For the official manufacturer's instructions, please do a "search" for specific thread entitled: "Alternative To Gatorback - Faded Cladding Solutions"
Once at the thread, then scroll-down and look at Posting #30
In addition, a printable "PDF" file is also available by clicking on the "link" in Posting #30