I have seen this kit from Independent4x for $2350 Looks like its got the best of parts from everyone!
Has anyone bought this kit or know if its worth the money?
Thanks
Haggis
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I have seen this kit from Independent4x for $2350 Looks like its got the best of parts from everyone!
Has anyone bought this kit or know if its worth the money?
Thanks
Haggis
Do a search here on lifting the vx. You can save yourself about $2300 bucks. Anything that has 3" lift in the title shouldn't also say "extreme":rolleyes:. Matt at independent is a great guy, and his products are good too, but if you have working shocks, a working sway bar, working springs, and working links already, then you can spend about $100-$150 and get about the same results. I can tell you for a fact that that steel braided brake line kit is not necessary if you are only lifting 3". I had it and the plastic deteriorates and one of my lines began to leak. I had it remade here locally and it was not only a little cheaper, but they guaranteed that theirs would not deteriorate or fail-ever! Our sway bars are already extremely stiff, so that's a non-issue, The only thing I would definitely recommend looking into in that kit would be the HD tie rod links(ours are frail) and maybe the quick disconnects for the swaybar(more for convenience only, and still not really necessary). Other than that, all you really need is a couple cranks with a wrench on the torsion bars, and either a set of taller spring or some spring spacers to lift. That's it.
Here's the info haggisgood is questioning...Quote:
Originally Posted by haggisgood
EXTREME DUTY 3" Lift Kit: 92-03 Trooper/VX $2,349.99
NEW for 2008! (introductory pricing) This is the top of the line! The Extreme Duty 3" Trooper Lift is intended for those looking for superior performance when taking their rig out in the toughest terrain. This Kit addresses all the know weak links on the stock 1992-2003 Trooper. FEATURES: OME progressive rate rear lift coils, Indy4x 1" Coil spacers, rear 3 piece Extreme Duty adjustable links, Full 5 piece Braided steel brake line kit, Heavy Duty front torsion Bars, Front Ball joint/ bumpstop kit, Ranch 9000 XL gas charged adjustable shocks, front / rear poly sway bar bushing sets, front / rear Sway bar disconnects, Front HD tie rods... This is the total package for lifting you 2nd gen trooper and hitting those tough trails with confidence! (fits a 285/75 r 16 w/out cutting)
https://id211.chi.us.securedata.net/...TREMEduty3.jpg
HAGGISGOOD--- The purpose for lifting a 4x4 is to clear larger tires. What size tires are you looking at putting on the VX that would require a 3" lift???
In addition, do you plan on mounting your new tires on the OEM Stock Wheels??? By using the OEM Stock Wheels will help keep the tires neatly tucked within the wheel wells and the new tires might not even rub.
yea i ordered the SS brake lines from matt at indy 4x... they work fantastic, but the outer plastic red shell is coming off now after 1.5-2 years, but no leaks
If you plan on doing any hard wheeling those links are also very nice. Ours are like toothpicks in comparison. I have bent mine and had to straighten them a time or two!
I would probably be going w/ 33" for the 3" lift.. perhaps 35" w/a 2" body lift on top of the suspension lift. I hear a lot of this cranking on the torsion bar, however I understand that you loose travel by the amount you crank it up! I would be changing out the wheels also .. not sure but I think I heard it was a 6.6 offset? ..
Anyways , I would prefer purpose rather than show!
I can only add a small tidbit here. I lifted with the OME912 springs in the rear and 9-10 cranks of the torsion bars up front. This gave me roughly 2"s of lift over stock. This cost me $120 for the springs, not a penny more! I added some 265 75/R16 M/Ts for a total overall lift of 3"s. I do not feel any stiffness as a result of cranking the T-bars. I do not think I get less travel up front either. I wheeled with this setup in Moab last year with no issues, but I guess it all depends on if you are going to wheel like a madman (like Billy) or just have a little fun offroading (like most of us). The beefed up links would be nice to have for sure.
Bart
Dumke is rockin that kit (or something close to it anyway). Here is his thread: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...eferrerid=1999Quote:
Originally Posted by haggisgood
Page 4 has the good pics...
Hey haggis....
Quote:
Originally Posted by haggisgood
...what happened to you calling me for a torsion bar tweak and some OME 912's?
PLEASE...save yer $$$'s....:eek:
jo
joe.. I was going to hook up w/ u and do the lift, however I have heard that simply cranking torsion bars looses suspension travel downwards and puts more pressure on the shaft.. believe me I do want the lift, but I also want some serious off-road capability.
Perhaps there is a link or someone who can explain the difference between the 2; both the positive and negative effects of each lift.
Thanks
Haggis
Haggis...I guess it depends on what you call "serious off-road capability"
Take a peek at some of last years Moab shots...some trails were 'fairly' serious.....
...and most of the lifted VX's had a simple spring and torsion crank.
OK , we're not talking HUGE boulder climbing , or REAL rock crawling...
...but a VX aint right for that anyway.
Jo
if you want your VX to have some 'serious offroad capabilities' you have 2 options-
1) save the money on all those parts, but the OME springs with a 1" spacer for the rear, crank the front...then lock both front and back axles...and add LOTS of underbody protection
2) SAS swap, lock, exo-skeleton, huge lift, keep going until you have a complete trail rig or are completely broke....
the VX is a GREAT offroad rig for a semi-stock vehicle...if you actually get out there and wheel the VX it will suprise the hell outta you, promise...
ask toddadams if you need a professional rock crawler to tell you about the capabilities of the VX... i believe he told me last year that his would keep up with anything with 33" tires or smaller....
thats pretty good for a vehicle that hasnt had rediculous amounts of money spent on it...
Here's the deal, bottom line...Quote:
Originally Posted by haggisgood
If you install everything in that kit, you STILL lose the same amount of down travel in the front suspension...end of story.
You don't need the:
HD torsion bars
Shocks
Sway bar disconnects
Ball joint spacers
Rear axle adjustable third link (though it would be nice)
All the other stuff is basically the same as what I'm currently using, with the exception of the adjustable MONDO lower links...:_drool:
Use the money you save to lock the rear with an Aussie locker or an ARB air locker...:thumbup:
And maybe even have some left over to become a site supporter...;)
Don't be offended, drumming up site support is what I do...:rolleyesg
You now have two cents worth of opinion, that used to belong to me...:smilewink
Being in SD, give Dallas a call over at StinkyFab Racing. Dallas owns two (sort of) isuzus and does some sweet custom fab work. If the links are a must have item Dallas makes Stinky Links that fit the VX.
I lifted using most of the Indy4X products. In the front I used the ball joint spacers (+ did the flip), the low profile snubbers and poly anti sway bar bushings. In the rear I used the OME 912 coil springs, 1-inch coil spring spacers, extreme lower links, extreme upper link and the poly anti sway bar bushings and stainless brake cables all around. I cranked the torsion bars for a slightly nose-down stance.
I lifted because I have larger tires on 16-inch wheels and I just like the look of a lift on the a VX. I did do a light trim on the front cladding too.
With a 3-inch lift, the rear axle was slightly forward of the center of the rear wheel wells so I adjusted the lower links out to center the wheels perfectly then I adjusted the upper link to level the axle, taking the strain off the u-joints.
Although the links are shown painted black on the Indy4X web site they were unpainted when I received them. Same with the ball joint spacers. I had them powder coated in gloss black. Also the holes in the spacers didn't match up with the holes in the new ball joints so I had to match drill them and the opening in the spacers that goes around the top of the ball joint was too small to seat properly so I had to grind the opening larger.
The lower links have grease fittings and can only be mounted with them pointing down because there's not enough room to get to them if they're pointing upward. Pointing down leaves them completely exposed to damage from impact so I replaced them with bolts.
The upper link didn't fit into the mounting bracket on the frame without some cutting and bending of the bracket. The bearing housing of the link was just slightly too big.
These issues were the same when I purchased a second set of all these parts from Indy4X for my other VX...no paint, misaligned holes and too tight a fit for the upper link.
These parts are awesomely beefy and look terrific on the VXs but Indy4X should have taken care of these issues on their end. I also bought a set of the shock absorber extensions but I didn't use them on the stock shocks. 10,000 miles since the installations with no problems.
Navi
HAGGISGOOD--- Ok, it's time for "Tire School-101":
You mentioned you would possibly like to go with a 35" O.D. tire. Please seriously consider this tire/wheel set-up:
TIRES: TOYO "Open Country" A/T or M/T (both tread styles are available) in size LT285/75R18 (35" O.D.). Incidentally, these tires are only 2 of 3 types in the entire world in this unique size. The 3rd tire is the Maxxis "Big Horn" M/T in this exact same size. Your only decision would be to pick the style of tread (A/T or M/T).
WHEELS: OEM Stock 18x7. Why???
A. They look great and you already own them on your VX (saves money). Don't waste money on aftermarket wheels while the OEM wheel is the best for the VX.
B. They are capable of fitting a "285" series width tire like the LT285/75R18 (35" O.D.) - Toyo "Open Country" A/T or M/T & Maxxis "Big Horn" M/T.
C. The OEM Stock 18x7 wheels have the proper offset and backspacing you will want to maintain and will greatly minimize any rubbing/trimming issues encountered by keeping the tires neatly tucked within the wheelwells.
Then, go over and see Jo in San Diego and test fit the tires and see what "needs to be done" in order for them to fit. You may find that only a moderate lift may be required, but you really won't know until you test fit the tires first. Remember, the "secret" is to use the OEM Stock 18x7 rims to minimize any fitment problems!!!
Do the Tire/Wheel set-up FIRST, and then do the Body Lift SECOND (based upon what is required to fit the new tires). Riff Raff
gonna have to agree to disagree just a tad bit my friend.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
while, yes, the stock wheels will solve any type of bearing problems from changing your offset...
1- it is not necessarily true that they will minimize rubbing...as long as you go VERY small in your change in offset its not going to affect your rubbing...
i have stock toyota 4runner rims on my VX and i have NO rubbing issues and the difference in offset is so small that i would put money on the fact that my bearings will last as long as anyone elses (except for maybe the difference in weight of my heavier tires)
2- the stock wheel is DEFINATELY not the best for buying tires...you will find it difficult and much more expensive to buy tires for the rare shaped VX wheel...if you go with something more generic then you are going to have a whole world of options, and they are going to be much cheaper, any size and width option you could dream up (if you change your wheels)...something more like these..
https://secure.bluehost.com/~gotword...treetlocks.gif
http://www.off-road-outdoors.com/ima...ave-teflon.jpg
3- oh and the savings of money mentioned?? if you bought one of these style of wheels, you will probably save money over keeping the stock wheels....a standard M/T style wheel for the VX wheel is going to cost you $250 per tire at the minimum....if you got something like those streetlocks (thats what jo has) then you could get tires as cheap as $50 per tire...
my point with changing away from the stock wheels is that if you go more universally sized then you are going to open up a world of options on tire sizes, widths, and styles....
PBKID--- Hmmm, sometimes your logic is illogical. Just don't make "cent's". Doh!!!
l dub.. so your saying that the stock suspension is just as capable as the indy? We have to remember that the suspension is 9yrs old now also.. not to say its damaged.. but existing suspension prob has more of a chance of failure.. hard to imagine then putting that kind of cash into something that basically functions no better than what I have currently..
Navi,
When dealing with Matt did you mention the problems with your 1st set? Matt is great to work with and would have probably checked into it and if not fixed it would at least advise future buyers of the situation. The problem is that most of his stuff that fits the VX is actually designed for the Trooper and there is probably some small differences in the two. Matt is a very upfront kind of guy and if he was made aware of the problems would take care of you or as I said at least advise future buyers of any mods that would need to be done for proper fitment.:cool:
I'm saying MY stock torsion bars, shocks, etc. work just fine for me...:_wrench:...:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by haggisgood
I don't know of anyone who has replaced their torsion bars with the H-D ones from Indy4X, & I wheel with 20-30+ of the membership here.
Don't get me wrong, I highly recommend Matt & Indy4X every chance I get, I think it only logical to support the ONLY vendor in the country who is interested in bringing a wide variety of aftermarket parts to a very small market.
I'm just sayin' ALL that stuff isn't necessary to be VERY capable off road.
I did call Matt and he hadn't heard of the misalignment issue before, was willing enough to help and asked for pictures of the completed installation. I wasn't angry or anything I just gave him a call with an FYI. I appreciate that he's got these way cool things for the VX and since I like working with my hands and mechanical things I enjoyed doing the final fitting. The ball joints I used were after market not OEM so perhaps that was part of the problem. Also, the expense of them powder coating the parts certainly would have upped their cost and maybe some people wouldn't care one way or the other that they're unpainted. This topic was an opportunity for me to describe an installation that maybe not everyone has done so I wanted to let everyone know of my difficulties.Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
The VX is about looks in addition to performance and the extreme lower links greatly compliment the overall appearance so even though I know there is not performance advantage it is worth the cost to me. These Indy4X extreme links should have been OEM on the VX.
Navi
how do ya figure?? to change rims to something that has more options for tires and therefore making them cheaper doesnt make sense?Quote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
for offroading purposes.. i think factory VX or trooper or rodeo 16's are the way to go.. lots of options.. lots of sidewall.. factory offset:thumbup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by haggisgood
Here is some more food for thought...:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ht=lift+thread
Not so. The recommended wheel width for the Open Country is 7.5" width for the 33's and 8.5" for the 35's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
Use this link, scroll down to the blue specifications title. Once in scroll the specs to find the tire and wheel match.
http://toyotires.com/tires/pattern/o...traction-tires
Sure, they'll fit a 7.0 wheel but good luck.