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so its finally time to replace that abs module.. dusted off the new unit thats been sitting on a shelf for the last year
but im not sure where to start... should i drain the brake fluid out of the vx first? (start the car, open the bleeder screws and let it drain) or can i remove the abs unit with the system still full then just bleed everything out later?
any tips?
I'm clueless on the ABS. Sorry.
Might start by lookin' at page 5B2 in the VX shop manual...:naughty:Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
They mention nothing about having to drain down the entire system...:_wrench:
well i got the unit replaced (no more abs light hurray!)
but this brake bleeding is taking forever by myself.. anyone in the downingtown area wanna come push the brake pedal down a few hundred times for me? beer and dinner on me!
I'm clueless on the ABS. Sorry.
I just cant say how helpful this must have been to the thread starter:p
Vacuum pump from Sears or Harbor Freight...:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
all done! replacing the unit itself took me 15 minutes tops
bleeding the brake system took about an hour for the rear passenger side (was doing alone... pump brakes.. wedge pipe between seat and pedal.. open bleeder.. close bleeder.. rinse and repeat
doing the other three wheels took about 15 minutes cause my roommate showed up and became the official brake pusher..
end result..
no more abs light and blean brake fluid... mmmm good!:dance:
WOOT !:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
you said it! this time last month.. i had an ABS light, a charging indicator light and a check engine lightQuote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
now i have.... a power mode light ;Db;
So where exactly is the module located? Maybe I should try to find a used one myself...good job.
Bart
ill do a photographic writeup later this weekend
"I just cant say how helpful this must have been to the thread starter"
There's method to my madness. His post was about to drop off the first page so I was just bumping it for him:) Yer welcum!
heres how i replaced my abs module.. it was very easy for me.. i have a pretty decent amount of experience working on cars but i am far from being considered a great mechanic too..
tools i used...
8mm crescent (open end) wrench
10mm crescent (open end) wrench
12mm crescent (open end) wrench
30" of 1/4" inner diameter (ID) clear tubing
32oz bottle of gatorade (empty)
48oz (1.5 quarts) DOT3 synthetic brake fluid (I used valvoline brand)
someone to sit in vx and push the brake pedal on command
Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable
locate your abs module
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_075.jpg
find the wire harness connected to it, on the right side of the harness there is a little nub you can grab onto, pull it straight out (sideways from the harness) until it wont go any further (should pull out about 1-1.5 inches
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_077.jpg
remove the harness by pulling straight upwards
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_078.jpg
using the 10mm crescent wrench, undo all 5 connections on the abs module.. the threads are pretty deep so it will take you a little while, i started in the back, then did the two on the right then the two on the left, but i dont think order matters
after getting each one unscrewed completely i let it rest in the abs module still to keep debris from getting into the lines
take the 12mm crescent wrench and undo the two nuts holding the abs module on either side
be careful not to bend the brake lines, gently move them out of the way and wiggle your abs unit out
mine took a good amount of wiggling, but i also have about 3 trillion aftermarket wires running through that area
on either side of the abs module where you had to take off the 12mm nuts, there are rubber stoppers in the unit where the threaded mounting bolts stick out of, pull them out and put them in your new abs unit if you dont have them already
slide your new abs unit in place, be careful not to bend the brake lines, make sure the mounting bolts and rubber stoppers are in place and secure the unit with the two 12mm nuts you removed before taking out the unit
reconnect all 5 brake lines, i started with the back, then did the two on the left and then the two on the right, start them by hand as far as you can go to avoid cross-threading
take care not to overtighten to the point you strip threads
with the locking slide still pulled all the way out, carefully put the electrical harness back on and lock it into place with the sliding piece you had to pull out to remove the harness before
double check that all of your connections are secure and that your wiring harness cannot be pulled loose
reconnect your negative (-) battery cable
start your VX (BUT DONT DRIVE ANYWHERE!)
smile at the fact that your abs light is out, admire how easy the replacement was and wonder why you didnt do it weeks ago
stop the vx
take your bottle, pour 1-2" of clean brake fluid in the bottom of it
cut a hole in the lid just large enough to pass the clear plastic tubing through
insert the plastic tubing through the hole, make sure the end is completely submerged in the brake fluid or you will get more air in your lines!
remove the abs fuse
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_079.jpg
find someone to sit in the drivers seat of your vx and step on the brake pedal
did you remember to remove the abs fuse?
start the vx... curse the fact that the abs light is back
if your abs light is not back on... remove the ABS fuse!
make sure your brake fluid reservoir is full, and remains full during the entire process (black cap, yellow fluid)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_074.jpg
do not leave the cap off the of the brake fluid reservoir! debris in your brake fluid = very bad
get under your vx behind the rear passenger wheel
locate the bleeder valve, it is on the caliper towards the rear of the vehicle (note this photo is the front drivers side but you must start at the rear passenger side!)
in this photo it is the cleanish looking round black piece on the caliper
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_080.jpg
remove the cap off of the bleeder valve and put is somewhere you wont lose it
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_081.jpg
this is your bleeder valve
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_083.jpg
slide the end of your tubing over the valve, make sure its snug, be sure the other end is fully submerged in brake fluid in your bottle
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...brakes_084.jpg
fit the 8mm crescent wrench onto the bleeder valve (just below the clear tubing)
check
did you pull your abs fuse?
is your brake fluid reservoir full?
is your vx running?
have the person in the drivers seat pump the brake pedal at least 3 times and hold the pedal firmly down
while the pedal is being held down, turn the wrench to open the bleeder valve, a surge of brake fluid should come down the tube and the brake pedal will drop to the floor, once the initial surge is over, close the bleeder valve
pump the brake pedal 3 times, firmess should return to the pedal by the 3rd pump, hold the brake pedal down
open the bleeder valve and close after the surge of fluid
keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir!! if it goes dry you have to bleed the master cylinder and then start the brake bleeding process over again! mine would get down to the "add" line after every 3-4 times i opened the bleeder valve.. if you have another person around to just keep an eye on the reservoir it would be a good idea, otherwise just remember to keep an eye on it
repeat this 12-15 times at minimum but continue until no air comes out with the brake fluid
be sure the bleeder valve is fully closed, remove the tube from the valve (watch your eyes for spray)
replace the cap for the bleeder valve
check brake fluid reservoir!!!
move to the rear drivers side tire
have helper pump the brakes again and repeat process 12-15 times or until all air is removed, watch your head and arms, the exhaust pipe/muffler will be very hot
check brake fluid reservoir!!!
move to the front passenger tire
repeat bleeding process 8-10 times or until all air is removed
check brake fluid reservoir!!!
move to front drivers tire
repeat bleeding process 8-10 times or until all air is removed
turn off the vx
replace your abs fuse
top off your brake fluid
tips
i had no brake fluid coming out of the lines disconnected from the abs module, but have a rag handy just in case.. brake fluid eats paint
make sure make sure make sure that your brake fluid reservoir stays full the whole time
there is no such thing as over-bleeding your brakes.. worst thing that could happen is you waste brake fluid, so take your time and be thorough
any thing else i should add to this feel free to chime in before i turn this into a how-to
Great Pics and description...this is a 'saver' for my files!
Thanks
jo
Awesome write up, E! One question though, why do you have to bleed the lines? Is it because air gets in there when you remove the ABS unit?
Bart
EDIT: One more question, do you feel the return of your ABS? And how do you like it compared to before? I haven't done mine simply because I actually like the feel of no ABS when stopping, especially offroad, but I may change my tune this winter...we'll see.
yea you get some air into the system by disconnecting the abs module.. i dont know that its 100% necessary.. but its a pretty easy process and needs to be done as regular preventative maintenance every couple years anyway so might as well (i bought 48oz of brake fluid.. maybe used 32oz of it.. and it only cost me 10 bucks)
i dont really feel much difference during daily driving, i did take it down some gravel roads and gave the abs a good workout.. its definitely a different feel when stopping on loose pack (snow, wet leaves, gravel) felt a little slower there.. but more controlled.. but my normal commute to work.. theres surprisingly little difference in how it feels
Good write up Eric. Now I'm not clueless.
I can convert your writeup to pdf & post it to the How2 section for you if you wish.
Tom
For a few months before my ABS went out, I could feel it engage when I started the VX up. Basically, I would fire up, back out of the garage and then put the VX in DRIVE. As my foot came off the brake pedal and I began to move forward, I would feel the brake pedal pulse against my foot. After the module croaked this went away. Also, when stopping in loose terrain, the pedal would pulse and kick back at me, which I did not like at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
Bart
yea i now have the kicking back in loose terrain.. not sure about the going from reverse to park.. i was parallel parking daily when my abs unit was going bad.. and even now i drive up a hill.. shove it in neutral and back into my spot at work i park as far away from everyone as possible.. so pretty much dont ever use reverse
tom yea i was hoping you would PDF that for me.. just give it a couple days so i can make revisions to it if necessary
ps i found that CD i made for you from the shenandoah meet while looking for my wheel lock key.. ill get that in the mail soon ;Db;
Eric,
I'll be in Essington this weekend for my God Daughter's baptism. I can swing by & pick up the CD if you like (another quick trip tho - arrive late Fri nite & head home Sunday afternoon (6am flight on Monday morn)).
I'll go ahead & start building the Word file for the ABS fix & then just cut in corrections before I convert to pdf.
Tom
I've spent my time bleeding brakes... Here's my hints:
1) Consider using a different color of brake fluid. In addition to standard clear, fluids are available in blue, red, and yellow, although I can only find "Super Blue". This helps first of all in identifying puddles in your garage. Secondly, it is easy to tell when you're done bleeding when the color of fluid coming out of the bleeder changes color.
2) As someone mentioned, grab a vacuum pump. Consider This or this. Either one will make bleeding a one-person job, but KEEP AN EYE ON THE RESERVOIR!
cool if you want to do that its fine by me.. ill be in media on saturday from 630am - 3pm at work.. i could probably meet you down towards essington after that, or if you could steal away for an evening i could show ya a few of my "local" (30 mins from essington) watering holes.. sure i could get at least 1 more vxer if youve got timeQuote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
"tom yea i was hoping you would PDF that for me"
Done.
Moncha will have to moderate before it shows in the How2 section.
Tom
Prolly won't have time for any 'watering holes' this trip. Hafta go downtown to pick up neice & MIL, then into Jersey for dinner with family.
well had my first "oh %@&!" moment since changing the abs.. you know the story.. dark road.. rain.. deer.. i slam on my brakes.. feel like im not stopping fast enough.. but before i realized it i had stopped short of where i thought i would.. and the VW golf behind me was unable to stop in time but managed to veer off to the grass shoulder to avoid me.. i got out to check on the driver.. he just simply said "your car stopped faster than mine could"
so while they dont FEEL as though they are working as well.. it would appear they are
A VW that can't stop as fast as a 4000 lb SUV?!? THAT'S the best test, Eric!Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
Some brake fluid facts & points to consider:
Brake fluid absorbs moisture if it gets the opportunity, and this makes it less effective. It's good to flush your fluid periodically. Many people use the colored fluids mentioned above to know when they have fully flushed each line. A helper is invaluable. There are also check-valve nipples you can use which allow you to pump the pedal yourself without a helper, but they have been known to fail. Easier to enlist a friend...
Any time the brake fluid system is opened (e.g, replacement of ABS module), air can and will get into the lines. As pressure is applied to the hydraulic lines during braking, the air bubble in the line compresses instead of your brake caliper, and you get no braking.
Replacing fluid will not necessarily change the feel of the brakes, unless you had an air bubble or a lot of moisture in the fluid. If you want a stiffer brake pedal, which just feels better and safer, you need to replace the rubber brake lines (from the end of the metal pipes to the calipers) with stainless steel brake lines, which do not stretch as much under pressure like rubber lines do and give the pedal a firmer, more responsive feel. It will not change your braking distance, though - that's still function of pads, calipers, and tires, not brake lines.
The pdf version of Eric's write up is in the download section. I'll see if Moncha will move it over to the How2 section.
Tom