On top of all the other Pre-Moab, Moab and Post Moab lack of funding ... my U Joints (front and rear) are dead! And have been all week. Called Merlin and I will have the parts in the morning.
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On top of all the other Pre-Moab, Moab and Post Moab lack of funding ... my U Joints (front and rear) are dead! And have been all week. Called Merlin and I will have the parts in the morning.
Whad you do!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by VXIRONwoMAN
Good question... I drove it and it is apparentely terrified of Moab. Because if it keeps acting like this... it's not going next year. Then again, if it does keep acting like this... my VX will be newer than everyone's! Decisions, Decisions...
So what exactly are the U-joints? And where are they and why are yours worn out? Inquiring minds want to know!
Good luck getting er fixed. I'm sure Gill has told you about Espo's.
:) Bart
Driveshaft components.....I believe.
http://wilesdriveshafts.com/db1/0004...Picture024.jpg
wow that was huge.
When you put the VX in gear and hear a CLUNK it is probably your u joint.
Hmmm, my VX has clunked when putting it in gear since the beginning....Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark B
Bart
me too.
THE FOLLOWING IS BAD INFORMATION, KEEP READING FOR THE PROPER CORRECTION ;)
/////////// BEGIN BAD INFO ///////////////////////
U Joint = Universal Joint the Plus shaped component not the "U" shaped :D
/////////// END BAD INFO ////////////////////////
Yoke = U shaped.
That's really too bad :(
Hope your VX gets better.
Good info on page 2
I think all of our VX's clunk when you put them into gear and I think it's just the gears engaging. If you put it into gear and hear a little ring (like a bell) after the clunk that usually means that something is loose. The other way to tell if your U-joints are going is to crawl under the car, grab the drive shaft and try to twist it. If it twists more than a minute amount they your U-joint is going. If it twists a lot, then it's a miracle that your U-joint is still attached.
crawl under your vx... find the drive shaft.. on each end of it is a funny looking connection.. that your u-joint.. while you are down there.. find the grease fitting on them and put some new grease in there! itll help with the hard stop clunks
can any1 of yo guy show some kind of step to step pictures to check the u joints, sorry, i just learn and understand things better with pictures, :o. Thanx guys. also on how to grease them and what grease to use?
check back around 9 or 10 tonight, i'll see if i can put together a quick vid of greasing them.
Etl you mention the grease fitting....
I have a friend with a Ford Explorer AWD and where the drive shaft enters the transfer case the "seal" there has ripped and the grease has spun out of there. You have any idea what to call that seal/gasket part? He is less mechanical than I, and our local parts guy at OReiley's did not know the proper name.
Thanks.
Thanx Etl..
My U-joints went bad around 90,000 miles. Basically, the U-joint connects to the drive shaft. Your drive shaft should be tight and steady. If you grab your drive shaft with two hands. Try moving it back and forth. It shouldn't move at all. If it does, your U-joint needs to be replaced.
Also, if the back of your car shakes in the rear suspect the U-joint. Go 20-30 miles per hour, the car starts shaking, release your foot off of the gas, it should ease shaking. If this happens, you have bad U-joints.
Peace.
Tom
012009
taylorRichie,
Unless I'm mistaken (it happens) the Universal Joint is actually comprised of the plus shaped piece (forget what the real name of that piece is), the yoke (actually 2) and the spline. Typically tho, you only need to replace the plus shaped piece - there are roller bearings inside the end caps & those are usually the only thing that goes bad.
The good news is that the parts are usually cheap. The bad news is that it can be a real pain to replace them. If you do it yourself, make sure you put them back together EXACTLY the same as they came out. If you get the phase wrong, you'll get UBER vibration.
Did a little research:
The piece shaped like a plus sign is called 'the cross'
Also: "Among the most common causes of U-joint and slip failure is the lack of proper lubrication. Properly sized U-joints that are adequately lubricated at recommended intervals will normally meet or exceed operational requirements. Proper lubrication flushes of U-joints thus remove contaminants from the bearing caps."
Very good Tom :D
Thanks for the correction.
The Universal Joint is the combination of the Yokes, The Cross, and the parts that keep 'em together.
I greased my U joints this evening, but I could get much to even penetrate the zerk... weird.
Awesome Image of the complete U-Joint
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...rsal_joint.gif
Back when I used to run parts (when I was 17, so 10 years ago) I used to go here:
http://www.sixstates.com
For all of our driveline components.
If you removed your U-Joints, and brought them in I bet they could match them up and possibly upgrade you to better units.
Just a thought for those in need.
sorry, no video tonight.. got called into work.. should have it up over the weekend
my joints took a little muscle to force the grease through... if you are having grease come back out of the zerk fitting, it either means your fitting is jammed up with a small pebble or your grease gun tip is the wrong size
"I greased my U joints this evening, but I could get much to even penetrate the zerk... weird."
Two thoughts:
1) they don't hold much grease - just a small hole down the length of each leg of the cross to allow the grease to get out to the bearing cups (also happens to be the outer race). The cups aren't that big & they are pretty full considering that they cover the needle bearings and the ends of the cross (inner race). Basically the only room for grease is the area around the needle bearings.
2) without regular service (grease) the bearings could have gotten hot enough to 'cook' the grease & make it harden. You can't force new in if you can't push the old out.
I had an old Dodge & the U Joints didn't have Zirk's. When I finally went to replace, guess what ... no grease in the cups & no needle bearings either - just rust colored dust.
Vid... Etlsport? :(
If you take your front or rear driveshaft off for any reason, put a mark or scratch on both flanges to line them back up to the same position when they go back.
John C.
"If you take your front or rear driveshaft off for any reason, put a mark or scratch on both flanges to line them back up to the same position when they go back."
'Zackly - that's the phase I mentioned earlier - the front & rear U-joints need to be oriented properly with each other.
uploading the video now to youtube.. but i have to run to work in like 15 minutes and its not done uploading.. ill try to post the link to the video later but if you dont want to wait that long try searching youtube for "vehicross zerk"
I have no idea what happened to my grease gun in the move, so the video just shows the zerk fittings on the u joints and the drive shaft
what you would do is buy a grease gun with a flexible hose at least 12" (i had to buy them separate) buy some grease to put in it, it comes in a cardboard tube, i used mobil 1 synthetic grease.. load up the tube into your grease gun according to the instructions
get under the vx and locate your zerk fittings.. if you cant find them, roll the vx forward about 1 foot and check again (dont forget to put it in park and set your parking brake!!!)
push the tip of the grease gun squarely onto the zerk fitting.. start pumping grease in! if you see grease coming out from around the fitting, make sure the grease gun is pushed all the way on and try again, pump grease until the grease you see start to come out of the middle of the u joints looks clean (you will hear it and see it come out after 5-6 pumps)
the fitting in the middle, the grease will come out where the driveshaft changes sizes, youll see it
oh one thing.. i would recommend getting some latex gloves.. i got that grease on my hands the first time i did it.. my hands felt slimey for a week.. used latex gloves this time... i was eating fries about 10 min later ;Db;
Well... I STILL don't have my VX back. I definitely haven't recovered since my return from Moab. I should have just stayed there. Sorry I have been MIA lately. Since my VX is gone, I just don't feel the same... Hopefully I will have her back tomorrow, though I should have had her back last week!!! :(
:cryy: I need a hug...
Quote:
Originally Posted by VXIRONwoMAN
No hugs available...will :flower: do!
jo
link to the video showing all 3 grease points on the drive shaft
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzaNXz-ty34
WTH???....GILL, give her a hug for cryin' out loud! :razzgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by VXIRONwoMAN
Well...I got my VX back yesterday and she was running better than ever. Today, I drove Gill to go get his oil changed and then on my return home my Check Engine light turned on!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!
:_mecker::flame2::_crying::_confused:_brickwal :bomb:
She's going back to the mechanic tomorrow.
On a better note...we had a mini VX meet at the mechanics and didn't even try to get one together. Me, Gill(nocturnalVX), and Petr (Petos)!!!
:yesy: Done and DONE...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
We can all feel for a VXer that can't enjoy it while the VX is in the shop though. I hope the check engine light is something minor, and that there are no more mech./maint. issues for a long time after all of this. :luck: