lift set up

ok so i know this horse has been beaten to death over and over and over but...just double checking...
all i need to get to lift the vx 3" is the OME 919's and the OME shocks designed to for vehicles with 3" lifts?
i have gathered that it would be good to get new torsion bars, but i dont have enough for that right now...so will this be enough with the ball joint flip and the torsion bar crank in the front?
secondly, once this is done can i fit 33's under the fenders with minimal cutting required?
third, is there anyone in the northern colorado area who would be willing to help me do this on a nice weekend? i have a couple of friends that say they will help but i would prefer someone who has done this before?

Not in Colorado...but, get OME 912's, no new shocks (unless stockers are bad), no new torsion bars (just crank) and you are good to go. I have not flipped my bj yet becuase that is only needed when you find trouble in aligning the front end. Thus far and more than a year later after my lift I have not had any troubles. The lift took me about 30minutes to install and I am a novice.

33's will fit but not with "minimal" trimming. You will also ned to take BFH to the rear of the front wheel well and do some non-minimal trimming of the cladding.

I don't mean to disagree with Mr Harris, but I would do the ball joint flip now because you are going to get new tires. I lifted, but didn't flip the bj's originally - I did get an alignment right away tho. The wear on my tires after that was my indicator that I needed to flip the bj's - pretty expensive way to figure it out the alignment didn't take. Also, I went to Firestone and got the lifetime alignment deal that Tone mentioned awhile ago. That way I can keep an eye on things before I wear out my $200+ tires, and when I get HD tie rods I will get a free alignment, and when I get new shocks I will get a free alignment, and when I re-lift I will get another free alignment. I think it cost $160 or so.

How hard is it to do the BJ flip?

Wow, that sounds dirty.... :)

Bart

alright, good, thanks for the great info... im gonna order the new springs probably next week and give it a try...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nfpgasmask

How hard is it to do the BJ flip?

Wow, that sounds dirty.... :)

Bart

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Extremely easy... for those with experience with midgets! No, it really is easy to do.

jus ome 912's?
how many cranks on the torsion bars and in which direction?
what would be the advantage/disadvantage to getting the calmini kit?

well ive been researching more since my last post and i think im gonna go with 919's because i can get a little more lift out of them and im trying to stuff 33's under the VX so im gonna need as much lift as i can get, i dont really mind doing some major cutting/slicing because i already have some pretty significant damage from a yukon so a little more ^(&#$ed up fenders wont be noticed much =)...
i know i have plently of room in the back for spacers and bigger springs and whatnot but ive found that the limiting is all with the CV's and ball joints...
someone needs to make a drop bracket or something for the front so we can go to 4 inches or 5...that would be really nice :naughty:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nfpgasmask

How hard is it to do the BJ flip?

Wow, that sounds dirty.... :)

Bart

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I could walk you through it when you are ready big boy....
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...deli_Silva.gif

Though it didnt make it any easier for them to do my alignment. So who knows if you want to do it.

There is a thread about the spring compression and height of 912's versus 919's. The 12's are taller.....


Go to planetisuzu.com for the cranking of the t-bars for a helpfull post. It is on the front page if I recall.

can anything be dropped with spacers to release cv stress?
Or is there anything else that can be dun to accomplish that?

Diff drop brackets. That's pretty much it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iceaxe

October 2004 and June 2006 ARB application guide North American Version both list the specs as follows.

Part #, Free Hight, # Coils, lbf/in spring rate, (application)

OME912, 420 mm, 10.8, 180-300 (medium load Trooper 92-02)
OME913, 390 mm, 9.3, 180-300 (medium Amigo/Rodeo 5door coil spring 98-02)
OME919, 430 mm, 10.8, 200-280 (heavy load Trooper 92-02)

bar diameter is same for each. 913 has lowest coil weight, 912 is + 0.8Kg and 919 is + 0.9Kg.

I verified the application guide is correct as it pertains to the OME912 and OME913 part numbers with a Rep at ARB-USA who cross checked for any updates.
I also cross checked in the Oct 2005 International Application guide and the specs are identical number for number, only the applications are listed as follows;

OME912 (medium load GM Frontera 95-98) and (medium Jackaroo/Monterey 92-2/2001)
OME913 (medium load GM Frontera 99+ 5 door)
OME919 (medium Jackaroo/Monterey 3/2001 - 04, Heavy load Jackaroo/Monterey 92-2/2001)

hope this information is helpful and clears up any confusion about the specs.

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As you can see from above the 919s are actually longer by 10mm.

There are tons of threads on these subjects that are helpful.
Difference in springs for lift: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=10299
Size of bolt for torsion cranking (27mm): http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=738
Lots of questions answered:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=10525
How to ball joint flip with pics:
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/78
Torsion bar how to with pics:
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles...Bar_Adjustment

My question would be while doing ball joint flip should we replace ball joints when they are around $240 for both upper and lower on both sides: http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...t=Ball%20Joint

When I did mine I did not replave the ball joints. They are not that hard to do so if they go bad at a later time it will not be to much time wise to change them...especially after doing it once already.
Of course I hope to not have to worry about that. The front end will hopefully be replaced with a solid axle before then.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LittleBeast

My question would be while doing ball joint flip should we replace ball joints when they are around $240 for both upper and lower on both sides: http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...t=Ball%20Joint

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OEM is hard to beat - sources like that sometimes use inferior metal in comparison so you may be taking a backward step by replacing the OEM's with junk.

I see your point Zeus, but I'll throw down a tidbit on this having replaced all my BJs with aftermarket. The ones I got are all made in Japan and appeared to be well finished quality products. I have beat them pretty hard and they show no signs of adverse wear or damage. The company who made mine is called Sankei Industry co. of Japan.

I have never seen this mentioned on here, but in order to do the ball joint flip you absolutely need:

22mm box wrench
14mm box wrench
14mm socket (+ ratchet)
Penetrating Oil
New Cotter Pins

Just didn't want anyone to get half way in and realize the closest to 22mm they had was 7/8ths" (and nearly strip the castle nut) and realize they had no cotter pins big enough to replace the rusted in place one that you might have to drill out..... Because that is exactly what happened to me. Oh and make sure to clean up the threads on the ball joint shaft and the castle nut, because if they do not screw back on freely by hand than you cannot put it all back together at all. Hope this helps someone eventually.