Grampa Bob...????

The box/bed you have is really cool. A question...Do you have your back seat in or removed. I like that idea but would like to keep my rear seat. How easy is it to remove the box when not in use? Thanks!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...bicon3-med.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...bicon1-med.jpg :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

nice nice....but too bad im always driving peopel around =P

I'd gladly give up the back seat for a bed, but.. the length is only 46" long, standard "single" or "twin" is 75" long!

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Originally posted by SPAZZ
Lay the front seats fwd and then slide them as far fwd....wow...more room

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Huh? They're talking putting a BED back there. I think they know how to fold the seats up.

I don't understand why you need to resort to trying to be-little someone and call someone names to make yourself feel better.

My point was that they were talking about putting a bed just in the back... not laying a mattress or what have you across the back and across the front, folded down seats.

Dude, you need to spend some time with a therapist.

Seriously. If you always assume things, take everything the wrong way, and fly off the handle as much as it looks like you do, then you can't be a very happy person. There are people that can help you.

Well, 75" is from the hatch to the steering wheel, so you're not getting a real mattress in there unless you take out the front seats too ;)

Rear seat is removed. Mat is a 3 part fold up. As I said sleeping is EZ with your head to the back & legs between the seats,You have to remove all the stuff in the box before removing the box it'self

1 - Spare left & right axles- inner & outer front wheel bearings- boot kit- Set of Asian Hubs
2 - Spare deep cycle battery
3 - Tow straps- jumper cables- Winch rope-Shackles etc
4 - Spare K & N- Tire Chains- Snow shovel
5 - Oil-Gear Oil-ATF Fluid- Anti Freeze- Lubricants - Grease
6 - Tire repair kit- Air gauge with filler hose-
7 - Jack- spare pipes- spare metal- welding goggles (#10 shade)
8 - First Aid kit-Spare mini fuses- Valve cores/caps/stems
9 - Tool Bag (complete).
10- Four Meals Ready to Eat (MRES)
11 - Roll up Table- Folding chair- Pancho-Ground Mat

In the rear compartment above or beside the box

1 - Halon Fire extinquisher
2 - Rechargable flashlight (2)
3- 6 liter water bag/ GI Mess kit
4- GPS- 2 Petzl headlamps
5 - 1 Backpack (clothes & shoes )
6 - Pillow & Down comforter- Three towels
7 - Two person tent- Mini Lantern

In the rear door
1 - Ax
2 - Fishing gear
3 - Spare CO2 Bottle
4 - Spare engine belts
5 - Dragonfly stove with fuel bottle- Matches- Fire starter etc

Stuff scatered about
Maps- Trail Mix- Dried fruit- Binoculars- Camera-Windex- shop towels- Shaving gear- Baby Wipes etc

So just MT the back of the VX & Tilt box approx 45 degrees & it comes right out.

Bob ;Db; ;Db; ;Db; ;Db;

Bob (sir)
Awesome I tell ya! Andy and I slept in the back of the VX a few weeks ago. I have NO clue how you can fit a 6'4" body in there. We ended up opening the back door and waking up looking like pretzels. It was very uncomfortable. I know the box gives you a flat surface, and up's the area about 10", and that right there has got to be a help. Please let us all know how it did on the Rubicon trail. Did it bounce around at all? Did the doors open at all? How did the VX do? Scratches? Trail breaks? Wish we coulda been with you!


Deby

Bob,

Spare front axles??
Have you ever broken one, or just being cautious??

Brian

Absolutely: Destroyed Drivers side outer/outer CV Cage at Bronco Canyon.

Purchased both axles from salvage yard in PA.

Had CV Joint ( Cage-Ball- Boots) rebuilt for $85

Swordy has broken at least two Axles

You Play- You Pay

Bob

Dang Bob,, you start a simple post, and Dallas turns it into a boxing ring LMAO

Maybe I did fly off the handle, but I don't like being threatened. i apologize if I took SPAZZ's comment as being sarcastic (hence the ...wow... part of his post, but I don't understand how I am accused of taking it off topic.

Anyway, I've been thinking of removing the back seats as well and making some sort of storage for the rear... I just always seem to be put in a position where, right before decide to do it, I have to haul around a couple people back there. Maybe if I just ripped them out then I wouldn't be put in that position.

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Originally posted by Dallas4u
Maybe if I just ripped them out then I wouldn't be put in that position.

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I was thinking the same thing.

HI Bob,
Did you get the axils off a junk VX or other Isuzu model?
What are Asian Hubs?
The Boot Kit is for the axil?
Do you need special tools to change an axil in the boonies?
Thanks, Roy

Did you get the axils off a junk VX or other Isuzu model?

Paid $120 out the door for 2 VX Front Axles from a salvage yard in PA. Dealer price for a single Axle $598 after a 15% discount.

What are Asian Hubs?

http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/manualhubs/

The Boot Kit is for the axil?

Yes, Once Boot tears you must replace as soon as possible otherwise the CV Joint will probably fail.

Do you need special tools to change an axil in the boonies?

No special tools all Metric hand tools/wrenches/Allen Wrenches- Snap Ring pliers

Takes about two hours if Trail conditions are favorable. one hour fifteen minutes in your Garage.

Bob

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Absolutely: Destroyed Drivers side outer/outer CV Cage at Bronco Canyon.

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Quote:

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Swordy has broken at least two Axles

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Quote:

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You Play- You Pay

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Bob,
Yer breakin' my heart, here!!! I just picked up two new sets of tie rods and ends for $275.... oh my achin' wallet.:mbrasd:

Brian

Yer breakin' my heart, here!!! I just picked up two new sets of tie rods and ends for $275.... oh my achin' wallet.:mbrasd:


Do yourself a favor & see if Swordy has a set of his bullet proof tie rods with ends for sale . Approx $200. Save your old ones as spares & get your $275 back from whoever-wherever.

[IMG]http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...php?photo=1960[/IMG]

My buddy and I here in Austin built that box and it removes with a few screws up front. We built it as big as would fit through the door (somewhat trial and error) and then added the lower front piece to cover the dropped floor area.

I am working on a shorter version of the box with the same doors and no compartment down the middle that will remove without any disassembly so I can have one for when the seats are out and one that fits behind the rear seat that is already in production. If you want one, you’ll have to come to TX or I could bring one to Colorado Zu.

GP Bob has to be the best equipped VX out there - he’ll be welding soon!

Thanks for the heads up on the tie rods Bob, but I beat you to it. I emailed him last week. :)

Do you have the name of the junkyard where you got the axle shafts?? That sounds like one lucky score, I'm going to bet that they don't have anymore. Do you know where I could find a part number??

What else have you broken on the trail, that you would recommend having in reserve??

Thanks,
Brian

Bob,

The link you posted...

http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/manualhubs/

says that there is a lot less wear on the CV joints with the manual hubs unlocked. This is because the front wheels aren't being powered by the front axles, right?? So, if I understand...

the CV joints are still turning and meshing together, but because they are disconnected from the tires, there is less strain on them. Is that right??
And doing this has no ill effect on the TOD computer??

Thanks for the info and the patience,
I'm still new to the offroading thing,
Brian

Brian,

The point is to install a TOD switch with the manual locking hubs.
I haven't tried enabling my TOD with my hubs unlocked, and I really don't want to see what happens if I do. :)

Since you've also lifted your VX, it's probably an even better idea to get manual locking hubs and install a TOD switch. The lift will probably increase the wear on the joints over a VX at stock height because of the angle on the joints.

Installing manual locking hubs and a TOD switch will essentially stop moving the joints completely, saving a great deal of wear.

Aisin hubs are the hubs that came stock on older Troopers, and they have a good reputation for durability. These days we get a flange that locks the axles full time. Superwinch and Warn also make hubs that fit our VXs. I have the Superwinch myself. I don't know anyone who has the Warn hubs, but they also have an excellent reputation.

-Daver

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Originally posted by Tone

GP Bob has to be the best equipped VX out there - he’ll be welding soon!

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Todd & Swordy have winches- That's my next project

Have two Deep cycle Batterys- Jumper cables- Welding rods- Goggles ( #10 shade). Will do if I have to but my trail buddies
(Sierra Stompers) are so good, so fast that I probably just get in the way.
Reason I keep referring to a #10 shade is that welding goggles usually come with a #5 shade (Gas) but for TIG- MIG a #10 is required. Got the goggles & shade at

http://www.use-enco.com/pdfs/796.PDF

Get the lift up goggles ( top right)& get the #10 shade from the Welding helmet ( lower left)

Total price out the door is < $20

Bob

I understand the idea of unloading the front CV/Axle system with a switch and unlocked hubs.
How about this as an application model --
Install the unlockable hubs and leave them locked, just like stock.
Break a CV joint/axle and unlock the hubs to get home with 2WD? Swordy, did you do this once?
Maybe the TOD would go nuts and the TOD disable would still be smart, so as to stop things rotating. I am getting lost in too many layers of disconnect.

Roy

Also, the other big benefit to manually locking hubs and/or TOD switch is the ability to use a spare that isn't the same size as your other wheels.

For now, when I don't have my rack/full-size spare mounted I can just pop the stock donut spare in the door and not worry about destroying my transfer case.

-Daver

I understand the idea of unloading the front CV/Axle system with a switch and unlocked hubs.

1: How about this as an application model --
Install the unlockable hubs and leave them locked, just like stock.

I don't install the hubs because they stick out too far with the wheels I have & are subject to trail damage. Mainly carry in the event OEM hub splines shear. Just pop off existing OEM hub & replace with Asian manual lock.

2:Break a CV joint/axle and unlock the hubs to get home with 2WD? Swordy, did you do this once?

Yes, When my CV joint failed I used my TOD disconnect switch but if CV joint has failed chances are it is not rotating & no torque applied to wheel. Got home in 2WD. If necessary just take off front OEM HUBs (Metric Allen) to keep wheels from rotating torque back thru driveshaft

3:Maybe the TOD would go nuts and the TOD disable would still be smart, so as to stop things rotating. I am getting lost in too many layers of disconnect.

TOD disconnect stops relay from energizing but see 2: above

Swordy, jump in anytime to if you have anything to add or to correct me if your of another opinion.

Bob

Bob...Sounds like you are prepared for just about anything. Wish I had the mechanical knowledge you guys have. Thanks for the info on the "BOX" plus all the bonus info you guys put out in this thread!:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Quote:

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Originally posted by Green Dragon
I understand the idea of unloading the front CV/Axle system with a switch and unlocked hubs.

1: How about this as an application model --
Install the unlockable hubs and leave them locked, just like stock.

I don't install the hubs because they stick out too far with the wheels I have & are subject to trail damage. Mainly carry in the event OEM hub splines shear. Just pop off existing OEM hub & replace with Asian manual lock.
...snip...
Bob

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After looking at the stock hub flanges, if the splines shear and don't destroy your axle at the same time, I would be well and truly amazed. :) But it never hurts to be prepared anyway.

-Daver