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So - if I understand correctly the lift is pretty easy.
- Crank torsion bolts (left and right) about 8 turns for 1" lift
- OME springs 1.25 medium for rear of truck
Question - do you have to flip the ball joints for this type of lift or is there enough room left?
Any other suggestions appreicated.
I'm not quite sure about the number of cranks on the torsion bars for lifting an inch since every spring is different, but I know that on mine, they were fairly loose most of the way and that when they began to became harder to turn is where most of the actual lift came from. Also, as a side note, it is much easier to turn the bolts when the front end is off the ground, so you aren't having to lift it by turning the bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grand_Canyon_VXer
As far as the "OME springs 1.25 medium" statement, I'm not real sure what you mean there, but most people I have heard of use OME 912 springs to lift and it is around 3" -period. To lift less in the rear(sounds like you're after an inch or so, you may want to consider using either polyurethane spring spacer along with your normal springs, or, what I did was use an adjustable steel spring spacer which allows you to more or less dial in the exact amount of lift you are going for just like the front. They cost less than a set of coil springs, less shipping cost, are adjustable, and then you don't have a set of stock springs lying around taking up space somewhere.
If you are only going an inch, you probably won't need to flip the ball joints, especially for what's involved to do it. Mine were held in there extremely well and I destroyed the boot getting one side out. I'm not trying to discourage the balljoint flip mod, but unless you actually need it, I don't think it's worth the risk. Although if you are going up higher, it does make the vehicle easier to align-which is absolutely necessary if you lift it even a little bit.
its 3-4 turns per inch.
Excellent - thanks for the info.
for the OME 912's - how is the ride. Does it get much stiffer or about the same?
Thanks again.
turn it say 2 or 3 times then drive the vx around a bit. remeasure and re-adjust. rinse and repeat.....
Ascinder-Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascinder
Could you elaborate some about these SPACERS?
I haven't been too interested in a complete lift and with brand new tires, wouldn't need one for quite a while. However, I've had a small rubbing issue in the back of the front wheel well on the pass. side (which I think I finally have fixed as of today). But I have been considering raising the T-bars just a hair (i dunno, maybe an inch) just for clearance comfort, and could be interested in a slight raise in the rear as well. This method seems just the thing I've been wondering about.
Thanx much,
Cy
Zeus Dood...Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEUS
Lovin' the new sig...got yer back on that one.:cool:
A little lift is a good thing.:p
I am paying ever so close attention to these lift threads. A 1"-1.5" lift is exactly what I want. Just enough to clear some bigger tires and give my VX that much of a tougher stance. I'm in the same boat though as far as waiting. I've still got A LOT of tread left on my A/Ts, not to say that the right moment or mood might cause me to abandon those tires, lift my VX to where I want it, and buy a full set of BFG M/Ts...
It would cost me about $1500 to get a set of 5 new tires and have it aligned and everthing else.
Bart
Its easy just get the spacers. An inch on your cv's = little downward angle. If 90 degrees is my cv's pointing straight to the center of the tire/brake, then with my lift my cv's are at a -70. I of course didnt not pull out my protractor from math class. However I do plan to get the diff drop brackets no matter what. Even if I decided to take a little lift off, I would keep the dropp brakcets to give me a little more upwards articulation.
Thanx!Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEUS
after doing a front lift you might think about redoing your headlight adjustments also:rolleyes:
No lift required here...just a B.F.H., and a couple of whacks:pQuote:
Originally Posted by cyronman
Chopper-Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper
Yeah, first time around I thought I got it. Then the tire caught the corner of the cladding and pulled it out away from the frame. It was split and stuck out, so it flapped against the tire. I had to tuck the split piece under the other (inner) piece of cladding, bend the frame in a little, :smack: it in some more, and finally zip-tied it flat. I am questioning if raising the front a hair would keep that edge out of the turning radius.
Maybe my H isn't as FB as I thought :p
The ball joint flip really is for giving your front articulation a little more drop.
Some folks have "leveled" the truck by torsion cranking only until truck is level, not nose-down stock, adjust headlights as they will be pointing up more. This may decrease rubbing, but not much.
Lifting will probably fix rubbing. Headlights may not have to be adjusted if you raise F/R equally. Longer coil springs will increase travel of rear articulation-especially when rear sway bar disconnected. Stiffer coil springs will ride nice and sporty, and increase your rear cargo loads from drooping the back of truck and ride nicer- tows better as well. Stock springs w/ spacers will lift, but keep stock travel- which is adequate.
Good Luck!
The ball joint flip is really for alignment issues after lifting, but you are right, it ALSO does allow a little more down travel. Didn't even think of that until you mentioned it. However, doing the bj flip without a lift may screw with the geometry in the opposite direction people try to compensate for after lifting. When installing the low profile snubbers and flipping the bj's on my VX, I measured less than a 1" increase in down travel.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCrowley