Printable View
Alright the question is.......TO LIFT OR NOT TO LIFT? ????????????
Send me your pros/cons, advice, suggestions.
My main concern is added stress to the VX after lift.
And whats the deal with torn CV boots, I dont even know what a CV is (but I read there are kevlar covers for them?)
If the pros outweighth the cons I will lift in the next three weeks....
Parts needed for lift:
OEM 912's
Ball Joint flip
___
___
___
anything else?
Been lifted for almost 4 yrs, offroaded for 3yrs+, no problems.
I've broken things while wheeling, but nothing related to my lift. My CV boots look brand new. If you are lifting just for the look, you should have no issues.
If you are going to wheel it, you are going to break things. I don't even think you can tear a CV boot unless you catch it on a rock, or disconnect your swaybar, but I'm not positive. Triathlete? Bob? Spazz?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/f13498de.jpg
Brian
Yes good answer. What size tires do you have. I would like to fit a 31.5ish?
Score board:
Do (1) vs. Don't do it (0)
iirc you were worried about your gas mileage being low in ur VX... a lift/bigger tires will make it worse and slow your vx down some
I lifted and never looked back. The only thing i wished i had done different is gone with bigger tires. I have 265/70/17 yoko mud+. Next time maybe 305 or 315/70/17. I haven't noticed anything negative. :p I didn't buy my Vx for the mileage :p I wheel with it too. I haven't broke anything yet, knock on wood. I rive my Vx for 80 min commute each way to a house I am building and generally wheel on my lunch break or hit some powerlines on my way home.
I'm running 33x10.5x15 BFG MTs.
Do you even need a lift for 31.5? Isn't stock size like 29.8 or so? Couldn't you put a few cranks on the T-bars and be done with it? I'm not trying to discourage you, I'm just curious.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...1/fca985eb.jpg
Brian
Well if you are planning on going with 31.5" tires on stock rims or close to stock offset rims then you really don't have to lift it. I mounted 31.5" tires on an 18x8.5 rim with 0 offset - they stick out past the cladding a bit. Wormgod has the same size tire, rim, and offset on his. Some trimming around the front wheel wells and cranking the torsion bars up an inch is all that was needed to clear them. The handling was barely affected in comparison to the 2.5" lift I have now. The ride and handling get worse every inch you lift it, obviously. Torque is lost for every inch increase in tire size as well. Braking performance also suffers some - a lift will make you nose dive more during hard braking too. You could try using the 1" coil spacers in the rear and cranking the front up 1.5-2". That would be a nice compromise if you don't want to go for the full 2.5" lift. Or just go for it - you will find your own negatives and positives for whatever you decide to do!
I'm with WiSDoM...lifted & never looked back, also wish I would have gone with larger tires from the start instead of "sneaking up" on 33's.
I went from stock to 265/70x16 thinking that would be enough...Riiight.
Then, after Moab, OME 912's, BJ flip, T-bar crank & a set of 285/75x16" Nitto Terra-Graps(almost 33")...There, THAT ought to do it...Riiight... :rolleyes:
I think you know the rest...33's on dubs, H-D tie rods & lower links, another inch of lift, flares, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah... :rolleyes:
Now all I want... 34's or 35's, lockers, SAS, body lift, winch, more skid plate, bigger sliders...
It's all trade off's...which side of the coin you wish to be on.
Aside from trimming a little cladding where it isn't noticed anyway, everything discussed so-far, is reversible...it's only money... :rolleyes:
Now that I read this, maybe you should get out now, while you can still save yourself ! ;)
Well by the time I read this post, ITS TOO LATE. I bought the 912's from Rocky Road and can not wait to put them on. Along with buying the 912's I went to pep-boys and pre order some out of stock 265/75-16 AT's now I am thinking those are too small? I thought Bimatti has 265/70-17 with his lift which is very comparable to my tires I bought (and i thought they looked good). But since they are on back order I is never too late to go back and order something bigger. I really dont want a tire that is too wide, for this is my daily commute car now. But if you all say Ill regret it you all know best I will easily turn around and get some more meat (I really am seeking a midly quite road tire with good off roadness.) I am fitting these on some 16x8 pro-comp 8089 0offset 4.5bs, just to let you know. (I dont have them yet they are going to arrive at my door Weds., hopefully, if you happen to know of my past exp with shipping tires/wheels)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...XA_8089x_c.jpg
Thanks for all your opinons. Bring some more
CV issues?
Kevlar CV boot covers? Where?
Tie rods? how much-what kind-where at-how hard to install
And I am a novice to 4x4's where the #### is the torsion bar nut.
I need a torque wrench for these, any suggestions? I did see a goodyear cordless at Pep-boys but did not catch a price only that it t's to 200lbs.
Also where is the best place to get a jack and two stands or all they all comparable.
Thanks again.
In no particular order...
265/75-16" are probably a good compromise @ 31.6", since you didn't want to go too wide, also, the wider, the taller, the heavier,... the lower the mileage will be.
The "bug" doesn't bite us all with the same intensity...you'll never know untill it's too late.
As far as quiet off-road tires goes, my two faves are Nitto terra grapplers & Bridgestone Dueller REVO's.
Jacks & stands ?...shop around, I found some spiffy chrome 6 ton stands @ Sam's Club for 25 bucks a pair. Got my jack @ Harbor Freight.
You can crank your T-bar nuts with a 1/2" ratchet, though some extra leverage (pipe to extend the handle or a breaker bar) will come in handy, also liquid wrench or PB blaster is your friend. (put it on your nuts) ;)
You will find a great "how to" on the 4X4 wire.(also giving you a better idea of location)
OR...crawl under & trace the torsion bar back from where it attaches to the lower control arm, at the end of the T-bar is where the adjustment nuts are.
edit...I decided I like the "how to" for the T-bar crank at Planet Isuzu better...
also has other info. of intrest to you.(HD tie rods etc.)
OOOhhh... you are in so much trouble! You have been bitten... "Should I go bigger?" If you are asking that before even getting your tires, you are in trouble!
I wouldn't worry about your CV boots yet. There is accelerated wear from the increase in angle but it's not all that severe. You have time. As for adjusting the torsion bars, an electric impact wrench is not necessary. Spazz and I have found some of them don't work past a horizontal plane anyway. I got a 3/4" slide bar and socket at Sears that works great to adjust the torsion bars and remove big stubborn nuts on the vehicle. You can put lots of leverage on that thing and it makes it easy to make several full turns on the adjuster nuts without ever removing it. Many auto stores have sales on combo packs of floor jacks and stands right now - tis the season. I would stay away from Wal-Mart though - is no bueno.
Here is the link Ldub speaks of: http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles...Bar_Adjustment
Those are some good looking wheels! Post pics when you get everything mounted up. I plan on stepping up to 33" BFG A/T's in a few months - they have a great rep as a nice, jack of all trades, light truck tire. You could call around for shops that carry blems (factory asthetically blemished tires that fetch a discount price).
Lifted...Love it...and use it! Wouldn't have it any other way....well, except SAS'd!
check sears.. i just got a craftsman 2-1/4 floor jack and two 2-1/4 ton jack stand for just under $30 total
Lift.
I would if I could fit it in the garage afterwards. :(
If you want larger or wider tires, you'll probably need to lift. Here are some cons:
If you crank your torsion bars all the way, you WILL tear CV boots, even if you never leave the pavement. I believe the simplest cure for this might be the Mechatech boots which are super flexible - I have them, but have not installed yet so I can't speak from personal experience. I believe the "Kevlar covers" you speak of protect the CV boots from tears from debris and whatnot - those wouldn't prevent tears that are caused by a CV joint that is stressed from the angle it is placed in by lifting. Next step up is to get the diff drop brackets and a modified cross member. This will ease the strain on the CV joints, but you'll lose a little bit of ground clearance. I've had a set on order for a couple of months now - good luck getting one any time soon. Beyond that, you need to go SAS.
If you put bigger, wider, heavier tires on your VX, you WILL notice a difference in performance. With 33's my VX is sluggish, especially on initial take off and going up hills. A gear swap should help some. I'm still trying to get all the parts I need for that one. Once again, good luck if you want to go this route. Ultimately I'll also need more power, either with a supercharger or another engine. You may also want to get your speedo/odo recalculated.
Also, there is the handling difference - you definitely won't be taking those corners as fast as you used to.
In retrospect, I don't regret lifting my VX, as I've always had the "bug" and knew this was the road I was going down. If you do decide to join us, we'll be hear to help you along the way. ;Db;
Oh yeah, and mine won't fit in a standard garage either, but it will if I remove the spare tire from the rack.
Awesome, posts. I cant wait to lift. 1.) I just love the look....2.) Want to really get into some midly serious offroading...(I dont think Ill ever just own sport cars..this is my first 4x4)
Mechatech boots? Where is the best place to get them. I am the kind of guy that likes to give small companies my business rather than a large super store online.
Also,what are drop diff bracket? And what is this SAS??????????? And where do I get some skid plates. I like Ldubs.
I think Ill stick with my 265/75-16's for now? Maybe start saving up for another set right now? I was on a mild budget and got a good deal on them at pep-boys for $108 x3 becuase you get the fourth one free w/mail-in rebate. But you did have to buy their road side hazard package and tire installation.
I cant wait for all of this to come in the mail. And I will for sure take pictures and post them of my pro-comp wheels. I just bought a new dual lens compact Kodak digital camera as well, so Im looking to use it.
I am going to miss the handles of the vx but oh well I want the lift more.
Looks like I will be heading to SEARS with this list
Jack - 6ton? too much? too little?
2 floor stands
What else tools do I need I want to get a brand new ones...
Thanks for the info again.....
Well, I got my 912's last week and just got on here to read up before I try to tackle the job. Tommorrow is the day. My only worry is that I won't be able to get the torsion bars adjusted. When I bought the VX the front end sat down in the front and I took it to a shop and they did get it adjusted but they said it took him about 3 hours to adjust it about 1/2"
Hopefully, he wasn't just familar with that procedures. I will up updat on Monday on how it went. To begin with I will be running 265/70/16 BFG's on it with aftermarket wheels with a 4" backspacing. They sit out a bit, but I like that look.
3 hours to turn two bolts? Guy must have been a genius!
texasVX,
The key is to make sure when you are cranking them that your jack raises the vehicle high enough off the ground. When I did mine, my jack was not quite high enough. That's when it gets tough to crank the torsion bars.
Drive it around a little bit and let it settle. Check it again to see if you need to crank one side or the other just a bit.
Peace.
Tom
Two good points....
Number One...The guy was a real genius.....He kept calling the VX a Toyota..
Number two... I will make sure that the jack is high enough.
I will update on Monday.
I did the lift with Triathlete's instructions and I wish I had done it earlier. The look with bigger tires is so much better. It took me over an hour to adjust the front. On the lift off the lift and measure then back on the lift off the lift and measure again then back on the lift off the lift and measure again then back on the lift off the lift and measure again then back on the lift off the lift and measure again. :p About an hour later it was done and both side in the front were the same. It had to be perfect.
Wish you luck.
One big problem I had was tha the jack was not high enough. I had to cut some boards and use the hitch on the back to lift the back of the VX. Then I didnt have one of the tools so I had to buy it. It took me about 4-5 hrs to do the process. If I had to do it again it would have taken me about 2hrs to do it.
How long would it take you to drive to Austin? I need the experience.....
Texas Vx
the VX is only 39xx lbs... thats 2 tons.. all you REALLY need is a 2 ton jack.. at sears they have the 2-1/4 ton set that comes with floor jack and two stands rated at 2-1/4 tons (4500lbs) which will be fine for your VX assuming you dont have two friends in the car when you try to lift it.. it was on sale when i bought it last week for 27.. if you keep an eye out on their website chances are you can catch it on sale too before christmas sometime... normal price is 55
Awesome, posts. I cant wait to lift. 1.) I just love the look....2.) Want to really get into some midly serious offroading...(I dont think Ill ever just own sport cars..this is my first 4x4)
Mechatech boots? Where is the best place to get them. I am the kind of guy that likes to give small companies my business rather than a large super store online.
Also,what are drop diff bracket? And what is this SAS??????????? And where do I get some skid plates. I like Ldubs.
I think Ill stick with my 265/75-16's for now? Maybe start saving up for another set right now? I was on a mild budget and got a good deal on them at pep-boys for $108 x3 becuase you get the fourth one free w/mail-in rebate. But you did have to buy their road side hazard package and tire installation.
I cant wait for all of this to come in the mail. And I will for sure take pictures and post them of my pro-comp wheels. I just bought a new dual lens compact Kodak digital camera as well, so Im looking to use it.
I am going to miss the handles of the vx but oh well I want the lift more.
Looks like I will be heading to SEARS with this list
Jack - 6ton? too much? too little?
2 floor stands
What else tools do I need I want to get a brand new ones...
Thanks for the info again.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
Again, in no particular order...
Mecha-tech boot replacement kit, H-D tie rod ends, H-D lower links, etc. available from Independent 4x4.
SAS is solid axle swap, you lose the torsion bars/ IFS & swap in a solid front axle. Doing away with high c-v joint angles.
My skid plate up front came from Tone, email him to see if he still has these available. All the ones underneath came from a 92 Trooper in a salvage yard.
Use search, there's a skid plate thread in the forums somewhere.
Diff drop bracket lowers the mounting position of the front diff., straightening out the c-v joint angles somewhat after lifting. There are lots of peeps around here who know a LOT more about it than I...again, search SAS.
Darlington off road & Independent 4x4 are "small guy" sites that are like a candy store for Isuzu off-road bits.(bring $ome money) ;)
Also, give Stinkyfab a look.
The VX weighs close to 2 tons...a six ton jack is a little over-kill.
There is a list of tools needed in one of those how to articles mentioned earlier.
Darlington Offroad is shutting down for a while - if you want diff drop brackets I strongly suggest getting in touch with Joe ASAP.
Independent 4x4 offers a lot of the same products. Stinky Fab is the shiznit for super beefy offroading parts. They're not cheap, but they're the only supplier of a lot of these things.
You don't need a 6 ton jack for the VX. 2-1/2 ton is fine - more importantly, look for one that will give you enough lift. The craftsman model I bought at Sears for about $60 was marketed as an "SUV Jack" and had a 3" extension. A lot of the standard sized jacks won't lift my VX with 33's far enough off the ground to remove the tire.
Well here's the update on the lift. It did not go very well!!!!!!
About thirty minutes in..... we broke two wrenches. I think we need to go to heavier equipment. We broke 2- 3/4" drive rachetts. We got the total weight off the VX, and had a cheater piper to the wrench and "snap". That was it for the weekend, no more tools..... Does any have any other suggestions???? I'm about to the end of my wrench..... :(
Soak the bolts with penetrating oil to help loosen up any rust and built up gunk! Put a bunch on and repeat a few times until your next battle with the wrench. Also tap the bolt head with a hammer. This will help loosen things up also. If all else fails a little heat from a tourch may help (just be aware of your surroundings...wiring, fuel lines, etc.).
Also, I have no idea what kind of tools your using but, in the long run one good tool is cheaper than 2+ cheap tools.
...What Triathlete says, & make sure to get the threads on the top side of the adjuster as well, if that doesn't work...air impact, make a reference mark on the socket & turn the nut with short bursts.
It would probably help to take a wire brush to those threads as well - and like I mentioned, a slide bar with a socket works really well.
I'd contact your local VX expert. Tone is only 15 miles or so away. He can help you with anything that comes up and has a fully stocked garage of tools.Quote:
Originally Posted by texasvx
Thanks, I didn't know he was that close....I'll get in contact with him..
I live in Leander as well.....
Hey, here is an update on the on going lift problem. I got with Tone this weekend and he put the back spring in but couldn't move the torsion bars. Even after a 1000 lbs. inpact wrench. On Monday, I went to a guy who does custom suspensions on jeeps. I thought that maybe he could heat it to get it moved. He said that alot of times it is easier to do it with a breakover bar than with am impact. After a couple of minutes he got it move and was going up. We got it to about 1/2" from where it needed to be and we heard a loud "snap" and pieces falling and looked down and the whole torsion bar adjustment bolt had fallen out. The bolt had striped, along with the nut on the top. After several calls I was able to order one from Isuzu. It will take about 3 to 4 days to get. The complete bolt and collars were 46.00.
Luckily, the VX had a jack under it as when we released it it was down on the wheel. Please stayed tuned to the next installment of "As the Torsion Bar Bolt Turns" :(
A little off topic, as it sounds like you only needed to replace a bolt, but I was wondering if anyone has considered replacing their torsion bars with these:
http://www.independent4x.com/item.jh...6&PRID=1027864
???