"Evap system flow during non-purge". Is this the evaporation canister for gasoline fumes? maybe it has a solenoid that is open or closed at the wrong time? Any thoughts y'all? Thanks, Don
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"Evap system flow during non-purge". Is this the evaporation canister for gasoline fumes? maybe it has a solenoid that is open or closed at the wrong time? Any thoughts y'all? Thanks, Don
My 1441 code was due to a capped off vac line when I had Alpine add the S/C. A visit to the dealer for fuel leak problems found the correct placement and no more 1441.
Roy
I had the same issue. I was about to replace all the hoses when I noticed the green wire connecting to the valve (under the rear end plugged into EVAP box) had it's insulation crumbling. The wire was actually broken. Was acutally not working therefor no pressurized tank. stripped and twisted teh wires together, no problem since.
Damon
Problem solved...I removed the purge solenoid and tested on the bench...it worked fine. Then I measured the voltage to the solenoid plud...0 with VX off and 12 volts when on...um...reassembled and check engine light still on. Then I disconnected the battery waited awhile (left and returned an hour later), reconnected and check engine light is now off.
Mine started having the same problem today....P1441 code. I'm going to try that and see if it works.
Three weeks ago I had my EGR replaced. That is what was thought to be my problem from a mechanic I took my VX to.
I used the search engine found several questions asked about it and a ton of different suggestions but no follow up as to what worked to fix it. Can anyone tell me if what caused it has been found? I know it is nit gas cap, I have done recent PVC and the fuel pressure regulator. No mods or anythging
Might your FPR be leaking a teensy-tiny bit?
I recently had same problem
Did a search for P 1441 code and found many suggestions to correct the problem.
Checked for vacuum leaks, wired disconnected and tightened the gas cap.
Went to Auto Zone and they reset the computer.
Check engine light off for now.
What is it?
Sorry for the unnecessary abbreviation...
FPR = fuel pressure regulator. I thought that if your regulator is not seated correctly, you might have a small leak in the fuel system that is caused the code? Maybe?
but it has been replaced and it was in for awhile before this started happening
my fuel line leading up to my fuel pressure regulator was cracked when i went to replace the fpr.. maybe that happened to you?
I replaced thew PVC valve, put on a new fuel filter and unhooked the battery for a half hour. So far no code. I still sense a disturbance in the force. For some reason I get these occasional slowing as if it was a manual and I downshifted. Not as prominant as that but similar in feeling.
circmand, that sounds like a problem I had once. The check engine light only came on when it "lugged" really bad, though. I ended up replacing my MAF, which got trashed from K&N filter oil. I replaced the MAF and removed my K&N filter, and everything was OK after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by circmand
I had a similar problem last year after power-washing the engine bay and I got water down under one of the ignition coil packs. I replaced it, but all it really needed was to dry out down where the spark plug goes. The "lugging" sensation was much more pronounced with this problem than with the bum MAF.
Good luck!
thanks for the advice but I think my issue is different. I still use the OEM filters have not switched to K&N. Out here in BHC we do not get a lot of rain and I have avoided any water in bay. (haven't washed it)
Huh - you are probably right. The wording you used really set off some bells from my own experience, but that don't make it so. Even though my VX's problem was from an MAF that was trashed by K&N oil, I had an MAF problem on my 928 that had nothing to do with K&N. Maybe it was just the age of the sensor, but the MAF on that car was freaking out intermittently for a long time before I figured out what it might be and replaced it. The second I started it up with the new MAF, it purred like a kitten.
So your MAF could still be out of spec on its own - you can always get a new one from AutoZone (stay away from remanufactured ones), pop it in, and return it if it doesn't fix the problem.
where is the MAF. Searches provided many hits but know location.
It's the square item located just after the air cleaner box. Very obvious.Quote:
Originally Posted by circmand
It's the assembly between the orange coupling and the filter (in your case, probably stock airbox) there in the pic below:
http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebo...al/blown01.jpg
appreciate the help
The picture they showed me looked different than what I am seeing here. Did it run about $100 including a core charg of around $45?
Looks like this stand-alone....
http://chevythunder.com/LT1_maf_sensor.jpg
Before replacing the MAF you might try cleaning it. A can of MAF cleaner will only set you back less than $5.
i removed the honeycomb filter out of mine .......like my vette..less air restriction..