Printable View
i am looking at a set of 16x8 rock crawler 51 series, with a lug pattern of 6-5.5, and a backspacing of 4.25inch my question is how much more will this back spacing make my tires sick out and will it clear all brakes and ball joints and so on. also i can not find a center bore size. isn't the center bore i need like 110cm? please help. thank you :confused: :confused: :confused:
I actually have those rims. However, I cannot find whether I have the 4.5 or the 4.25 backspacing.
They cleared my calipers and the centerbore was big enough, fit really well actually.
I will try to dig out the packing invoice to find out what they were.
Check out my gallery to see how they look
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da..._back_view.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by bobmumgaard
Mmmmmmmmm black & mud. That's a great look.
4.5 or 4.75" backspacing,
4.25" hub bore. This is 108mm.
If you start talking metric you'll confuse the salesman.
EDIT:
Factory wheel (18") backspacing was 5" (a 7" rim with +38 offset).
An 8" wheel (any diameter) with an offset of +0 will have a backspacing of 4".
An 8" wheel (any diameter) with an offset of +10 will have a backspacing of 4.4"
An 8" wheel (any diameter) with an offset of +20 will have a backspacing of 4.75"
I'd stick with the 4.75" offset in order to minimize rubbing and trimming/bashing.
THANK YOU GUYS, so the less back spacing the further it pushes the edge of the rim away from the truck (the rim sticks out further) right or rong?
You are correct.
The closer the backspacing is to 1/2 of the rim width, the closer to 0 offset you will be. So, an 8" wide wheel, with a backspace of 4" will stick out further than the same wheel with a backspace of 4.75"
Lay a wheel face down on the ground, and then lay a straightedge across the edges of the rim (parallel to the ground). Backspacing is found by measuring the distance (vertical now) from the mounting pad to the bottom edge of the straightedge.
Brake caliper clearance is determined by spoke design and wheel diameter -backspacing/offset mean nothing here.
ok now i feel really dumb but you have helped thank you so much
I JUST NOTICED THAT I SAID 16x8 AND I ACULLY MENT 15 x8 PLEASE TELL ME THEY WILL STILL FIT
Diameter will just clear the brake rotors.
The inner edge of the rim might rub your upper control arm (just outboard of the ball joints) depending on the amount of backspacing. More backspacing (in this case) will cause them to rub.
DO YOU HAV ANY IDE WHAT SORT OF BACK SPACING WOULD YOU SAY WOULD CLEAR. CAUSE I READ ON HEAR SOME WHERE I CANT FIND IT NOW BUT SOMEBODY IS RUNNING 15x8 ROCK CRAWLERS I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW SO WHEN I ORDER THEM TOMARROW I DONT GET THE WRONG ONES PLEASE THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP
O.K., you have to follow along here.
Joe Black is running 15x7 wheels with an offset of +40mm.
About 2mm of the inside edge of the rim contacted the upper control arms. So...
These wheels (15x7) equal an offset of 5.07".
Therefore, we can safely assume (?) that the upper control arm lies 5.00" inboard of the mounting pad for the wheel. (that 2mm of contact = 0.08").
Still following me...?
You need to find the correct backspacing for an 8" wide wheel.
Well, 1/2 of your rim width = 4.0" If you find a wheel with 4.0" of backspacing, it WILL NOT hit your upper control arms BUT , it will cause problems with the rubbing of fenders and such -many members have had troubles with +0 wheels.
So...
You need to split the difference. Not too much rim inside, and not too much rim outside.
Somewhere between a backspacing of 4 and 5 inches will be best. I'd get as close to 5" as possible, without actually hitting 5". This will keep the wheels tucked in, fighting the dreaded rub AND it will keep the wheels out far enough that your small diameter rims won't rub your suspension bits.
Make sense..?
Go for the 4.75" wheels.
This is the same as a 15x8 wheel with a +20mm offset. This has been proven to fit the VX as long as you don't get too crazy with the tire selection.
Thank You So Much For Your Help I Found Exactly What I Needed Thanks To So I Really Owe You One
damn how much offroading can you do in Key West before you need positive bouyancy? :P
Hey mbeach, I've been reading along here since you seem to know what you are talking about and I am also in the market for rims. I know I could machine anything I buy to fit the large bore, so taking that into consideration I was thinking about the American Racing Chamber rims again.
http://www.americanracing.com/wheels...lloy§ion=S
But, considering everything you have stated here it looks like none of these rims will work no matter what, since the 16" rims with a 6x5.5 bolt pattern have a 0 offset and only 4 1/2 on the backside. All the offsets on their chart are negative offsets or 0 offset. There is only one listed with a positive offset.
Am I correct? I really want to get these rims or at least know there is no way to make them work so I can stop dreaming about them. :) Sorry, I absoluted NOT mathmatically inclined and all of these numbers give me a headache.
Thanks - Bart
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeach
I really oversimplified my earlier explaination -it's kinda difficult when dealing with offsets/backspacing/suspension bits/fenders. You could go nuts trying to figure it all out.
I learned quite a bit trying to stuff some 17x9 wheels into a car after I had converted it to coilovers. Nothing seemed to fit, because the coils were rubbing the tires. I had all kinds of cardboard templates out in the driveway trying to make things fit. It was a painful learning process, and it actually cost me a set of nice wheels.
Here's a really good site explaining some of the finer points of wheel selection:
http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
As for those Chamber wheels, they really are sweet (especially in black), but it looks like none of them will work. Wait for the Colorado/Canyon pickups to gain popularity -they have a close fitment to us.