Wheel Spec Info, Hard to find a one stop shop.

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WHEEL SPEC WIKI - Please take a side image showing your offset and I'll add it here

Please include all tire and wheel specs.
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http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/lifted05.jpg
Tires: 33X12.5R20 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Wheels: 20X8.5 +10mm offset 108mm center Bore KMC XD Rockstars
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http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../IMG_00271.JPG
tires:285/60/18 Toyo AT
Wheels:+18mm offset 18" Wheels
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http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...ations_024.jpg
tires:33X12.5 R20 Nitto Terra Grapplers
Wheels: 20X8.5 +15mm offset Zinik Z26
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http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/CIMG1004.JPG
Tires: 33x12.50 R15 Wranglers
Wheels: ??? Guessing 0 offset

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Well, the oem wheel is a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern, 38 mm positive offset with 108 mm center bore. I know Littlebeast was able to use 100 mm centerbore but be sure they will fit, espically when trying to remove a hot wheel that has expanded if you get my drift.

Someone here coined a wonderful phrase about the stock wheel and tires making the VX look like it is stand on it's tip toes or something to that effect, but well said.

I went with a MKW M18 wheel (see in my gallery) it is a 8.5 inch with a 18mm positive offset. I also mounted Toyo AT's, 286/60/18. I did have to crank the torsion bars, trim the front cladding and knock back the rear cladding lip, but that step might not be neccessary with the TB crank. Also had to adjust the speedometer +6%, but was simple with the scan gauge Tone sells.

Hope that helps.

Centerline: 20"x8" with 5" backspacing.

On their site, ( www.centerlinewheels.com ) I search (from the drop down menu) using Toyota 6 lug truck & SUV, to get correct center bore.:thumbup:


Offset - Distance from the wheel center-line (CL) to the wheel mating surface - greater positive offset moves the tires inward (narrower track)
Backspace - Distance from the inside lip of the wheel to the wheel mating surface
The tricky part is that when a wheel is widened the offset and/or backspace change (actually it is impossible for both of them to remain the same), so upgrading to wider wheels is not as straightforward as "get the same offset and backspace and they will fit."

I hope this diagram will help, rather than muddy up the waters of an already murky subject...:rolleyesg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...eel_offset.gif

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rowhard

Well, the oem wheel is a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern, 38 mm positive offset with 108 mm center bore. I know Littlebeast was able to use 100 mm centerbore but be sure they will fit, espically when trying to remove a hot wheel that has expanded if you get my drift.

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Actually I ordered mine with the 108mm centerbore because that is what I was told on here, but they were WAY too big when I put them on and I measured the spare tire and it was at 100mm.
THEN when I took off the STOCK 18"s I measured their center bore and guess what? It was 99.5mm. I don't know where this 108mm came from but it is wrong. Stock centerbore on our wheels is 100mm.

In my opinion +15 is about as low as you should go on the VX, maybe +10, but definitely not 0 or any negatives, please.

If you want to see what - offset looks like talk to tom4bren. I would not suggest it at all. In fact if you go past the +15 that I have I think it starts to look tacky, but that is just my opinion, some people like the look. Here is a sample of negative offset on the VX:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...72/ppuser/2699

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...39/ppuser/2699

Rekin we'll just have to agree to disagree.

I totally agree with you littlebeast, hate the 'slotcar' look

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tom4bren

Rekin we'll just have to agree to disagree.

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HAHA no offense I am glad somebody tried it..... And glad you bought it. Any plans to get different wheels/tires in near future?

Thanks for the help, and thanks for the Diagram LDub, it is confusing, but I'm grasping it.

As for the 108mm centerbore, I'm guessing that came up because that's what most aftermarket wheels have (when they have a large center bore) I haven't seen anything with a 100, they're all 108. I believe that's what the H3 requires.

Tom4Bren, I do have a question about your spare tire... Does the rear door feel like it can handle the weight of that when it's open? I'm considering putting my fullsize spare back there like you, but I worry about the weight on the door.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by taylorRichie

Tom4Bren, I do have a question about your spare tire... Does the rear door feel like it can handle the weight of that when it's open? I'm considering putting my fullsize spare back there like you, but I worry about the weight on the door.

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Oh man, please tell me you are kidding. I think even he wishes that the guy before him would not have done that. There are better options I think that will not seriously screw up the VX like drilling through the back door. Roof mount on a rack or removing the interior seats and making a custom mount..... that door was not designed to hold that much weight, and talk about changing the look of the truck..... not trying to knock Tom4Bren, but ask him if he would have it done if it were not already done, that is the best question I think.

no... I would be using it as an off road mount only. Not always there. I'm fairly confident I could have had something fabbed up that wouldn't permanently alter the Back gate.

A back seat is far more important to me than a full size spare (unless on the trails) I don't like roof top spares, they're ok while you're on the trail but you're just creating a higher center of gravity for yourself. And keeping one up there all the time is really good for gas mileage.

Having a tire back there while off road seems like it'd be a good to have when you're in the "tippies". Jack probably could have used the extra weight ;)

Too many questions & not enough grey matter:)

1) Do I like the look? ABSOLUTELY & even more important, so does Wifey (bought the VX for her).

2) Is it too heavy for the rear door? ABSOLUTELY but ... the latch mechanism on the VX is pretty good so the hinges aren't carrying much of the load. I am very careful about opening & closing the door & will never install a door popper. I've noticed a slight amount of wear on the latch so will have to order some spare parts while they are still available. I'll try to get some pix. On the other hand, the door is bitchin heavy even without the spare so you should be careful with it anyway and NEVER EVER drive with the door open.

3) Do I wish the PO hadn't done it? No, he did a very good job of the mount. He put a fairly beafy plate both inside & out so the sheet metal isn't going to fail (if not abused by door slamming). BTW, I like the look & judging from the compliments I get - Joe Public does too.

4) Is there a better approach if you want a full sized spare & don't want it up on the roof? I'd probably fab up some kind of mount that uses the receiver hitch & never touches sheet metal. Creative engineering would be required to make it stable & not move too much. Bro has a RoadTrek (sp?) that has a similar set up but I never looked at it very closely. Of course the down side of that approach would be that if you tow with the VX, you'd be without a spare.

5) Have I thought about different wheel/tire combo? WHAT??? Prove you right??? NEVER.

Actually, I'd love to replace the Wranglers (these aren't as bad as I remember from some in the past but just never liked them). I'll wait till they're worn out tho.

I think I answered all the questions. Next scheduled tom4bren bashing starts ... now:)

"no... I would be using it as an off road mount only. Not always there."

Sounds like the receiver hitch mount would be your best approach by far. You'd want to make sure that it doesn't affect your departure angle tho.

I realize this is a little off the topic of rear mounted spare tire, but when I went in to get tires at Discount tire, they said I would have excessive bulge if I went with 265/75/16... so i went with the 245/75/16 BFG A/T's. I searched for a while on the forums, and still was doubting myself.

I love the tires, but I really want something more beefy.. I was looking at BFG Mud terrains. Could I just say forget the bulge, and go with 265/75/16 BFG M/T's? Or would I be risking it since the 7" wide rim? Keep in mind, I want to stick with STOCK 16inch rims.

IMHO - should be OK but may want to run them at a slightly higher pressure to ensure even wear (not a bad thing considering that it might also help with the gas mileage).