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I was wondering what the best way to get the diagnostic codes are? Is there some way I can do this myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer and let them charge me $40 to tell me the codes/problem?
I just installed the Calmini Hi-Flo air filter, and 2 days later, the light comes on... cooincidental? I dunno, but I don't want to spend $40 for them to tell me it's an air intake problem.
Should I have reset the computer before putting the new filter on? What could be causing it?
AUTOZONE
for a minimal fee
For me, the minimal fee has been $nada$. I didn't think AutoZone charged for pulling codes?Quote:
Originally posted by Anita
AUTOZONE
for a minimal fee
Earlier this year I picked up this OBDII code scanner. It's a nice thing to have. It allows you to read all the stored codes, erase them, and turn off the CE light. If the light does not come back on for the same code, it was a false code and you took care of it yourself in 30 seconds.
A while back my CE came on for an O2 sensor. A couple days later the light was on for a different O2 sensor. It didn't come back on for either since, so I guess they were false codes. If you get a repeat code, leave the light on and see the dealer.
No one wants to have the CE come on during a long drive. It just glares at you the whole trip and you wonder why it's on. With this tool, you can pull over, write down the code, look up it's meaning, turn off the light, and continue with the light hopefully staying off.
Don't pay $200 for this from Actron or Pep Boys. I got mine at a local parts store for $160. Summit Racing has them for $140.
http://www.wtv-zone.com/markg/imag/D12z.gif
Mark Griffin
The CalMini filter should not cause a CE light. I would double check that you don't have any leaks between the mass air flow sensor (the thing you attached to the blue CalMini bracket) and the throttle body. If all looks good, pull the ECM fuse in the fuse box in the engine compartment for about 30 seconds and reinstall. This should clear the light. Then wait and see if the light comes back on.
Or take it to Autozone and pull the code.
I don't know if a Calmini filter requires oiling or not but I do know that when I reinstall My K& N Filter after cleaning & reoiling that when some oil gets on the MAF sensor wires I get a Chheck Engine light. I just wipe the Sensor with alcohol & that takes care of the problem.
Thank you for the tips guys... I did put oil on the filter, even though it didn't specify on the one sheet Calmini instructions. It looked enough like a K&N that I Figured it probably wouldn't hurt... so perhaps some of that oil got onto the sensor.
Are you saying just wipe off those little square sensor things suspended by wires with a q-tip or should I use something else?
I'll drop by Autozone sometime this weekend and see if they can pull the code for me.
I would like to pick up a OBDII code scanner, anyone know if it can be upgraded for newer cars in the future?
I just soak a shop towel with alcohol & gently wipe down everything.
Here are more OBD2 scanning options...
http://www.obd2.com/
and
http://www.obd-2.com/
My check engine light came on after I did my first oil change (not using jiffy lube) and I freaked out. It went off after about 3 hours. Then it came back on again about 2 days later and stayed on all day until I:
1. Made sure the gas cap was on really tight ( I read that on here)
2. Put the platic engine cover on tight (it had come loose on 2 sides)
3. I took a cloth and wiped down the engine and around.
after that it went off in 3 minutes hasn't been on since. What does this mean? I don't know just wanted you guys to know in case it helps anyone.
Thanks :rolleyes:
My engine light came on during my trip back from Moab and the Ft Worth dealership advised that as long as its not flashing, the car is okay to drive. Just check it for the type of stuff you have already mentioned (they suggested the gas cap first thing). If it keeps coming back on, you haven't found what's causing it and if it starts flashing, you are not supposed to drive it. Get it to a dealership immediately (they suggested towing it if its at that point).
I think mine was oil related because when I filled it up with oil, the light went off and hasn't come back on.
The tank is pressurized when the motor is running. A loose cap would keep the tank from pressurizing properly.Quote:
Originally posted by deldorado
1. Made sure the gas cap was on really tight ( I read that on here)
There is no way the engine cover coming loose would affect anything. The cover's function is only cosmetic.Quote:
2. Put the platic engine cover on tight (it had come loose on 2 sides)
Unlikely that would do anything... I mean perhaps debris and grime could cause an electrical short somewhere, but not likely.Quote:
3. I took a cloth and wiped down the engine and around.
Whenever the check engine light comes on, a fault code is registered in the vehicle's computer. The only way to know for sure what the trigger is is to have the computer scanned with an OBD2 scanner. You can have it done at the dealer, buy your own scanner tool/software... or, as some have mentioned, some auto parts stores can scan the ECU for you.
HAS ANYONE EVER HAD ALL WARNING DASH LIGHTS COME ON AND THE ENGINE JUST QUIT/NOT ABLE TO START/HAD TO HAVE A TOW. THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE- HAD TO HAVE A SENSOR REPLACED ON BOTH OCCASIONS. ANYWAY IT LEFT ME STRANDED WITH ALONG HIKE OUT SO I'VE BEEN APPREHENSIVE ABOUT TAKING IT OUT IN THE BOONIES AGAIN- IS THIS JUST A CASE OF LIGHTENING STRIKING TWICE OR IS THIS MORE COMMON!
Perhaps at electrical short is zapping the computer... Ask BumbleV-X or Swordy - I think they had a similar problem which was resolved.
Yes, Anita we did have the check engine light come on. I was driving home when all of sudden all the lights flashed including check engine, and the motor started pinging. I was unable to go over 30 mph.
Our problem was located in the back (they had to check everything else before finding the problem). What was happening was that when Swordy articulated the back tire all the way the spring was coming unseated. When the spring again made contact with the truck it was squashing the wire harness, and it set out a short in the wiring. Ours are bigger springs than stock, as Swordy tends to articulate just a bit more than stock. When the spring would come unseated it would give out a LOUD POP/THUNK noise. Last month we had to get a new wire harness for the back...$290.00. If you play..... you pay! I guess we've found that out the hard way. I hate to even guess at the money we've spent on repairs on our VX because of offroading. Cladding, paint, body damage (both rear quarter panels), cv boots. 2 axels, repairs of locker, spider gears, bearings, tie rods, front window, shocks, springs, cross member, and the stuff he hasn't told me about. ;eekp; OMG, I didn't add it up till just now. ;eekb;
Guess I really shouldn't have been surprised to see "check everything" lights come on. ;Dy;
Granpa Bob catching Swordy articulating....
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...papass=&sort=4
In the picture the VX is level, but the back left tire that is reaching down is fully articulated.
Deby