The VX is really starting to piss me off. The EGR valve issue has returned. New valve, removed intake and cleaned everything, and it is idling rough as hell. Fml ...
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The VX is really starting to piss me off. The EGR valve issue has returned. New valve, removed intake and cleaned everything, and it is idling rough as hell. Fml ...
After calming down I stopped by a Jeep/Off-road shop today to see about an complete engine rebuild. They are going to get back with me sometime tomorrow with a quote. The nice thing is that the guy knows Isuzu and has a trooper at the shop waiting for a transmission replacement. If the price is right I will most likely pull the trigger on this.
Seems like a pretty big leap to engine rebuild...especially after the solonoid thing. Did you mean trans rebuild? Rough idling can be one of several things without warranting a rebuild. First few things off the top of my head would be intake gasket, FPR, plugs, vacuum leak (especially after r/r the intake), and O2 sensor.
Exactly why I am looking for a rebuild. I am tired of fixing the same issues repeatedly. The way I see it, the engine made it 170,000 miles and now it is one problem after another. The EGR code is back, despite a new EGR valve, new intake gasket, new vacuums lines, new throttle body gasket, and a lot more. I did an oil change around 2000 miles ago and the oil is already back sludge, which is probably causing the rough idle by clogging the oil passages. In order to clean all of that out properly I will need to pull the heads, so why not just rebuild it and hot tank the block at this point? I can chase small fixes forever or I can just fix it right.
For the transmission, my solenoids came in today and I will try that before having the transmission rebuilt. Even if it works though, I will probably have it and the transfer case rebuilt at some point anyway.
All this may be overkill, but I need this Vehicross to be reliable as I plan on taking it to some very remote places. I can’t do that if new issues keep cropping up before I get the current ones under control.
At some point I will also need to get the ABS module rebuilt/replaced as well.
I have already swapped the entire suspension, rebuilt all of the brake calipers and new pads, rebuilt or replaced the entire front end except gears, and those are just the large items. This VX was abused and not cared for at all. I didn’t realize the level of neglect this truck had been through when I purchased it. But, as they say, in for a penny in for a pound.
Yeah, I'd wager that the PM was completely neglected. I HIGHLY recommend Shell Rotella T6 full synethetic for oil. The reason is because diesel oils do not have the same restrictions on cleaning agents that "regular" oils do--so their cleaning agents will last longer between oil changes. For an engine that has been neglected, those cleaning agents may be entirely consumed in the first 1000 miles--at least with a regular oil. I change mine religiously at 3,000; have done it for several vehicles now--and it works great. I don't buy the hype about longer change intervals.
P.S.
The ONE thing I'd verify if they do a rebuild on your engine--is the oil squirters & passageways. There's a reason OEM engines tend to burn oil--and I can state factually that my own engine does not. I'm not sure if it's a rebuild--but I wouldn't be surprised.
p.p.s.
Unfortunately, you're also seeing one of the issues I've seen some of my car buddies run into by trying to buy on the cheap end of the market. That Corvette that is selling for 5 grand less than any other comparable model--is probably beat to tar. Fortunately, you're a handyman & can address problems yourself. There are many who aren't nearly as skilled--and they quickly realize that buying on the cheap end of the spectrum--in order to afford a vehicle they probably shouldn't afford in the first place--is a losing proposition. Kind of like how thinking you're approved for a $200,000 mortgage doesn't mean that you can or should AFFORD said mortgage.
Best of luck to you! Keep us informed.
I think I may have a warped intake manifold. I started the engine today and I have an audible air leak at the same location I have had three times. Three gaskets. Three times taking it apart and putting it back together again. Same location. The latest gasket was the most heavy duty I could find. Rubber coated steel and much thicker than the previous ones.
I could beat the previous owner with his own severed arm. Gahhhhh!
Yup....An intake leak would cause your issue. Without trying to be Debbie Downer, it COULD also be the corresponding surface that's warped. Did you "glue" the intake gasket on....or install dry? There are some VERY good sealants that might solve the issue. On a SBC, most mechanics DO use sealant on the intake....though it doesn't necessarily call for it.
Back in the 80's, I had a Toyota with a persistent intake problem. I took it apart and redid the intake gasket about 6 times. Got where I could do it in 1/2hr. It would last 3-6 weeks before leaking each time. At the time, the internet didn't exist. I gave up and sold it without knowing all my options. I would suggest you have an advantage...since no coolant/oil is running through VX intakes. Those fluids add to the challenge for maintaining a long-term seal....with liquid/rubber sealant. If you try a sealant, make sure you pick one rated for gasoline. I recommend you Google "intake manifold sealant" to find the most current sealants. If you haven't tried that route yet, do so.
One other thing you could do is take the intake to a machine shop and have them check it for "flatness". In Kansas City, there's a cylinder-head service/shop that has the equipment to "plane" it back straight. If you consider it, look for a similiar "machine shop/cylinder-head service" near you.
Installed it dry. I could probably do it again in a couple of hours with some sealant. The real question is do I really want to?
Who am I kidding. Of course I am going to.
Damn it.
While it's off, take it in to be checked....OR... put something long, metal, & straight on the surface to see if you can shove a feeler gauge underneath. (IOW, perform your own check). Might as well to make sure.
I finally broke down and put it in a shop. I should find out later today what the cost is going to be. Having the entire engine gone through to include new timing belt and full service while they are in there. Once that is all done I can work on the transmission shift solenoids.
I miss my VX ...
Yay! The shop called. Turns out it wasn’t anything major, except to my wallet. $400 for a complete engine checkup just to find out that my EGR valve self destructed without throwing a single code or CEL. I should be able to pick it up later today. I thought about just picking it up and doing the work myself, my this guy has been great and throwing a local mechanic some business, especially on me that is willing to work on a VX, is OK with me.
$400 for a complete engine checkup? What did they do?
Aside from new EGR valve, which was a bit over $120 just for the part, they also did a vacuum pressure test, compression test, full service on the engine, checked the master cylinder pressure, and checked every gasket for leaks. Only other “issue” found was where I unplugged the wire for the power steering pump to stop the high idle (bad sensor), but the pump itself checked out fine. I still have the intermittent ABS light, but I told them not to worry about that yet.
I was also quoted $800 for a new timing belt and water pump, but that will have to wait as well. I dumped too much money too fast into this VX and now I need to pay down some credit cards before I start again.
Sounds reasonable. At least you have the peace of mind it doesn't need a complete rebuild! Did they explain how the EGR valve cause the symptoms reported earlier? Was the valve itself leaking?
Yeah. The valve body separated from the plastic part while leaving the valve closed without throwing a CEL.
An update.
I got Izzy (have no idea why that name has stuck, but it did) back from the mechanic. Ran great, for a day. Then a CEL. EGR Flow Insufficient. Did the Seafoam treatment, and so far no more CEL or codes and it seems to be running great. I wonder how long before I will have to do it again? At least it is an easy thing to do, about a half hour total.
Of course, the downside to all of this is money. I have dropped around $7000 total so far into it. 99% of that is just getting it runnng reliably. $7k over 8 months is still less than a grand a month, but is still more than I was putting out for my Tacoma in payments. These costs really need to slow down before it kills me. And yes, I still have loads more work to do.
Gahhh!
It's amazing how much effort it takes to save something that has been badly neglected.
No kidding. Good news is that it’s day 3 since the egr cleaning and still no CEL.
New goal: Try to make it through the entire month of March without spending any money besides gas/oil as needed while still using it as a daily driver.
Yes, I know I have parts that need to be installed. I would just like to take a breather and not work on it for a while, unless I am forced to in order to keep it running anyway.
So ... lets see how long this works out LOL!
So the CEL came back. Code is 401, low EGR flow detected. Damn it. Looks like I am going to have to pull the exhaust tube and do a deep clean on that as well.
It is become rather tiresome to re-fix the same issues over and over again. It is almost as if this VX is trying to die...
Pulled and cleaned the “Mode Selector/Neutral Safety Switch. It shifts properly! Yay!
Shout out to @dallas121469 for this thread:
http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...tch-ADJUSTMENT
I really thought I was going to have open the transmission back up again to install new solenoids. This fixed it! Woot! :jump::jump::jump:
I think I may have to check the fluid level in the transmission, god I wish it had a dip stick...
Trying to build up the motivation to swap out the shift solenoids in the transmission. I have a set, and I probably need to change them out anyway. I am just remembering how messy it was to work on the transmission the last time I pulled the pans, and it’s cold outside, and I need to pick up new gaskets, and transmission fluid ... really wish this VX would just work...
I have also discovered the bolts for the transmission mount have sheared off, so it is just resting on top of the mount. Maybe that is why I occasionally have hard shifts ... sighhhhhh ....
You are braver than me! GL!
Sadly, none of the auto parts stores around be have the pan gaskets. I will have to order them. :(
I ordered a new transmission filter and gasket for $2.98 from RockAuto! They are having a clearance on them.
I also got a the smaller gasket, and a new transmission mount. Sucks that I have to order it all online, but there it is. Total with shipping is $56.08 so not too shabby. However, now I have to put off the solenoids until next weekend at the earliest. Once the parts get here I will buy a gallon of Dextron III and I “should” be good to go. I hope ...
So my ABS Light has been coming on and going off intermittently for months. When I first got the VX I replaced all of the pads and rebuilt the calipers. Since I had the hood open anyway for round two of the Seafoam treatment to try and clean out the EGR system, I decided to check all of the fluids. My brake fluid was just under the “add” line. I filled it to about 1/4” below the “max” line and the light went off. Hopefully this fixes the issue. Hopefully.
I also reset the 401 code for “low EGR flow” while doing the cleaning. So far, it hasn’t come back. We shall see. I still have two cans of SeaFoam. Fortunately I am getting good at this process. I may have to make it part of my regular service.
Oh! And there is no sign of oil burn since I changed the oil while it was in the shop, for the EGR fix! Yay!
ABS light came back... damn it...
6 days and no CEL! So far so good.
All my parts arrived from rock auto today! Yay! If the weather holds I will be replacing the shift solenoids and transmission mount in the morning.
Today was a good day. Installed all five of the transmission solenoids along with another filter for the transmission.
Oil was deep red, but since I got the VX with dirt brown fluid I am not surprised. However, now I am getting slipping and shuttering from a dead stop. I am hoping it is just air bubbles in the system.
Have you changed the fluid in rear differential? I had shuttering from dead stop and found out whoever changed the rear fluid last didn't add LSD (limited slip diff) additive. I changed the fluid and made sure the gear oil had it, they also sell a stand alone product. Shuttering stopped after that
Yes, I used dextron iii , per the manual.
I'm talking about the rear differential, I thought my trans was slipping also but then read about the LSD additive.
Ohhh. No I haven’t changed that out yet. It’s on the list.
I drove it today with the transmission cold. When cold I get hard shift from 2nd -> 3rd, along with the low power in first. After a ton of googling, it seems my transmission is going into “limp mode”. This would also explain some strange numbers from the computer regarding applied horse power. Most common fix seems to be the mode selector switch. I have worked on it before to clean it. Since then I have had to re-align the shift linkage to compensate, so it is possible I didn’t get it right the first time. I am going to try and clean it out again, and see what that does. Either way, I plan on doing the diff fluid (front and back) this weekend.
What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...
I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibu_Robert
Update on transmission issues!
So as it turns out, my transmission may actually be fine. After months of extensive work, and over $500 in parts, it may not actually be the transmission. As it turns out our transmission can have the same symptoms from fuel pressure being out of spec. I have ordered a fuel pressure test kit. If the pressure is too high, it is the pressure regulator. Which would suck as I have already changed it once. If it is too low then there is a feed problem. Could be a line blockage, bad fuel filter, clogged fuel pump strainer, or a bad fuel pump.
With the symptoms in the transmission I am guessing it is a low pressure problem, but that is a guess, which is why I ordered the test kit (only $25 on amazon). It should be here tomorrow and the test should only take a few minutes.
After the amount of work I have done to this thing, I was both glad and pissed that I found this information from both Isuzu and BMW mechanics on FB. I may have been chasing a ghost for 8 months. Hopefully this test will tell me where to go to excise this gremlin.
That SOUNDS like a stretch. I wouldn't consider symptoms the same -- at all. When I read about the startup/shifting problem (after sensor swap), it sounded like the torque-converter might not be full yet (air bubbles -- as you posted). Wasn't sure if running it (til warm), then shifting thru gears was the "cure"? But, I found something like that posted on the net for our trannies. (All of this done with the vehicle stationary).
FP can go pretty high w/o issue. Engines have the ability to compensate for significant variance. When FP is too high, the ECM shortenes injector pulse width (PW) to reduce the amount of fuel and bring things back "into spec". When it's too low, the engine won't run right because you've have a lean condition -- whose symptoms would present much differently in my mind. Missing/bucking engine isn't the same as a transmission with shifting issues. Someone without knowledge of either might not know -- but anyone willing to swap trans sensors themselves seems to savvy to mistake the two.
AutoZone lends FP testers -- so you really didn't need to buy anything