Hopefully sending the Word file to Buffy today so fingers crossed that a full write up will be forthcoming soon.:dan_ban::dan_ban::dan_ban:
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Hopefully sending the Word file to Buffy today so fingers crossed that a full write up will be forthcoming soon.:dan_ban::dan_ban::dan_ban:
Hey Tom,
I've got some more information that should go into this since I just did the swap.
1. The fuel lines from the Trooper will work. The VX connections are different towards the engine but just cut the rubber line before the connectors and install the same way they are on the Trooper with hose clamps.
2. Cruise control needs a constant 12v to go to pin 12 of connector B-9 at the cruise control module interrupted by the clutch switch. This can be done at either the CC module itself which is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side. This can be done by running two wires under and behind the dash splicing into pin 1 and 12 of B-9 and connecting to the lower of the two clutch switches. This is how I did it but it was tougher to do than I expected. Or you can run the wires from the clutch switch out of the firewall and down to the mode switch connector M-25 pins 5 (D) 12v and 7 (B) cruise.
3. Pins 1 & 4 of M-25 need to be shorted to start the car. I shorted them directly at the M-25 mode switch. The downside of this is the car can be started when the trans is in gear and the clutch is not depressed. No big deal to me but some people might not want that. To avoid this run these back through the upper clutch switch for starter interlock i.e. car can only be started with the clutch pedal depressed. Pins 1 & 4 are the two thick wires on that connector. Because I didn't do it this way I didn't need to run any wiring through the firewall.
4. Brake pedal doesn't have to be changed but it is too close to the clutch pedal in it's current state. I cut mine down to the size of the clutch pedal with a cutting wheel and now there is no clearance issues.
5. The only electrical connection that needs to go to the 5 spd tranny is for the reverse lamp. This goes from M-25 pin 5 (D) 12v and pin 2 (F) to the blue two pin connector on the tranny.
6. The shift indicator controller box can be removed. This is the small plastic box that is right above the alarm/keyless entry module in this picture.
7. Remove the A/T lamp from the instrument cluster to get rid of the shift light.
8. Try fitting the console over the shifter and running through the gears before doing any trimming as you may not need to do any at all.
That's all I can think of right now.
Thanks. I added it to the file. I was about to send the Word file to Buffy on a CD. I'll burn a fresh copy with this added info before mailing in case he wants to use any of the info.
I thought about removing the Check Trans and "L" gear lights but decided to leave them in place because they're actually kind of useful. Granted the Check Trans (i.e. Upshift) is a bit of a granny light but the "L" light tells you whether the clutch is engaged or not. A month or so after I got the VX back from Greg the cruise control stopped working and eventually the absence of the "L" light clued me in that the clutch pedal wasn't coming all the way up. Turns out that clutch switch is pretty sensitive and only needed 1/8-1/4" extra up travel, so without that light I can't imagine how hard it would have been to figure out the problem.
Just food for thought. What I really would like to do is to grab the gauges for a manual Trooper and see if they could somehow be made to work. Beyond my skill level though...
We almost got a 5 Spd VX in Fredericksburg. A local dealer was supposed to get one in last week (an Ebony). Boy found out about it & has been hanging around the dealership ever since. It still wasn't there today so the manager called about it. It was delivered to a dealership in Baltimore and was sold the very same day. Now we'll never know who's it was or how it was done.
Very interesting.... been reviewing the PDF that was completed. I seem to remember Ashley has an issue with the oxygen sensors. I may have gotten a couple wired backwards. Can you add anything Ashley??
I used the Trooper exhaust and so just had to unravel the wiring harness like you documented Buffy. I had a bad o2 sensor and associated codes prior to the swap. No codes or CEL since.
IIRC the post cat O2 sensors were installed pre cat and vice versa so the computer couldn't figure out why the emissions were being INCREASED by the cat.
Hello everyone.
Buffy, I'm doing a 6VE1 swap into an RX-8 and I'd like to know what transmission that is. Every trans I've found from a Trooper has a one-piece housing. I need to find that bell housing you used so I can mate a R154 to it. The R154 has shifter options I'll need to match shifter location.
Thanks for any help. :)
It's an Aisin AR-5. You shouldn't have a problem finding one in a yard on a 98-02 5-speed Trooper.
Hmm. I wonder why I keep finding the other one (mau5?).
I guess I'll keep looking.
btw I saw your VX thread. Nice ride.
Thanks man. The MUA5 was used in late first generation Troopers (89-91) but much more commonly in V6 Rodeos, Passports, and Amigos. I believe it did bolt up to the 3.2 as well so maybe that's another option. Member Buffy can give you a dissertation on the differences I'm sure.
It can bolt to a 3.2. Not sure how hard it will be to find a 2wd version of the AR-5 trans. I believe there are other versions out there though. Pretty popular tranny.
While doing the 5 speed swap in my race truck my racing partner and I dissected the transmission wiring harness. We were able to do away with the green plug entirely and pretty much reduced the trans wire harness by half. I am considering offering a swap program where I rebuild the auto wire harness for the swap so that it is a plug and play venture. Just plug it in and everything works! Any interest in such a service?
It's really the bell housing I'm after but if I can put a R154 tail housing on the AR5, even better. If so I'll keep the AR5. I hear it shifts better then a R154 anyways but as it comes out of the trooper, the shifter location wouldn't work.
Ask and ye shall receive...
:smilewink
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/3646294428.html
Wrong one. I was looking for the AR5 with the removable bell housing.
Found one yesterday. Bought it home today. I'm golden. :)
http://i48.tinypic.com/hteb6s.jpg
Awesome! Glad you found it!
BTW, apparently there are also bell housings for the AR5 that adapt the LS V8s!
Bummer :(. Hard to believe that Isuzu didn't have a center diff option. But I now understand why you go through the considerable effort to adapt TOD.
Just a quick verification...
'98 5 speed Trooper 4x4 is 100% compatible with this swap, correct?
Believe so. IIRC the Trooper's went to electronic throttle vs. throttle cable for 2000 so you must have a 98 or 99 ECU to be compatible with the VX.
Verify with Buffy though.
That's what I thought too.
I have my eye on one...
I just don't like the mileage... 175k.
I missed out on one the other day for $750, at 90k.
Thank you!
Yes indeed.
My donor was a high mileage '98. If I could've found a low mileage one I would have but it seems the '98-01 5spd Troopers are a bit rare. Mine does make a strange sound in 3rd and 5th that sounds like the blower fan is on. Don't know what it is but just when the shifter is in the forward position. Probably would do it in 1st too but never go fast enough in 1st to hear it. It stays the same with clutch in or out. Not a big deal and doesn't effect performance but odd just the same.
Awesome!
Thank you!
Stay patient, I paid $800 for my 99 with 93K miles and no engine. Jerry Lemond's recommendation was not to service the AR-5 before 150K miles, so I don't plan to mess with it for another 40K miles. If you settle for something with 175K miles you can probably add a transmission service/rebuild to your price.
Excellent advice.
Thank you.
Passing on this one.
I've seen about 4 pop up within a 300 mile radius of Vegas within the last 3 months... Some over priced. Some great priced.
How hard do you think it would be to piece-meal it?
I think between You/Buffy and BigMeat(?) there is enough of a parts list to go off of.
Definitely would be harder, more time consuming, and almost certainly more expensive. BigMeat piece-mealed his I believe so it can definitely be done, but I know Buffy said that being able to see the AR-5 completely installed and wired up in the Trooper made it easier to know what needed to go where.
Plus a truck sitting in your driveway is better than a mountain of loose parts in your garage. :)
It wouldn't be that difficult, off the top of my head the parts list:
From '98-01 Trooper
AR5
ECU
Flywheel
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch hydro line - or new
Clutch slave - or new
Fuel line
Exhaust*
-optional
-Shifter boot
-Fuel level sender unit*
Rodeo
Clutch pedal assembly
-optional
-brake pedal assembly*
New
Clutch assembly
*not sure the exhaust really needs to be replaced but you may end up with o2 sensors codes popping up it not used. Mine needed replacing anyway so I used the Trooper one. However, if you plan to off-road a lot the crossover should be rerun. The Trooper exhaust crosses under the front prop shaft so it extends downs right after the front cross-member and will be the first thing to hit when dropping off ledges. Eric's (owns BigMeats 5 spd rig, I think we should change his username from Etfren to LittleMeat ;Do;) exhaust had this re-routed over the top of the prop shaft to eliminate this problem, although i would wager his passenger floor get pretty hot, maybe Kaylie can chime in. I will be doing this in the near future 'cause I definitely took some hits on the exhaust in Moab. Nobody can say I was treading lightly there but I'm learning. :mbrasd:
Here is a picture of Eric's exhaust.
*Fuel level sending unit is calibrated in the ECU and I found running the Trooper ECU with the VX sending unit was mis-calibrated and I was empty with 1/4 tank still showing on the guage. Swapped the sending unit and all is well now.
*If the stock pedal is used it is too close to the clutch pedal and I would hit the brake occasionally when depressing the clutch. I just cut a centimeter off both sides of my stock brake pedal and added some aftermarket pedal covers.
The ECU from the 98 or 99 Trooper is what you need. The trans can come from a 98 or later. I currently have a spare 5 speed swap sitting at my shop I am toying with selling. Was going to use it to build the black VX that went to Tom. I have an AR5 with 63K miles, the computer and flywheel that I am thinking about selling. Still hadn't decided if I would install in my silver VX. But should I sell it I would be asking 1000.00 for it all. I also have the manual gas lines to go with it. Very handy item to have for this install, trust me I know.
PMing you now!
I decided to keep looking for a Trooper.
Question...the Trooper exhaust, can it be from an Auto, or does it have to be manual?
I believe its supposed to be the manual version.
I've collected all the info I can find on components at my VXWiki. I'm eventually going to piece this together.
Something to keep in mind. If your state is performing OBD2 checks, they could ID computer from different car/year and fail you. Mass started with identifying Europian code that was flashed into some car's ECU's and eventually they started picking out non-native ECU's. NH was late to the game, but they are starting picking them out. So before you truely commit to a 5sp ECU from a trooper, make sure your will not have this problem.
Interesting point.
Vegas won't be an issue with it as a whole, since it's the same engine, but knowing our DMV, it'll probably need to be "re-certified".
Thanks!