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Thinning 15-25% with mineral spirits is standard for varnish especially the first coat. It brushes and flows much easier. I found this to be the case with SN, and got very little streaking if any. It just felt right.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Dave
Ran accross this today while looking for something completely unrelated. Thinking about trying it on a junk yard piece before my VX. Anyone have experience with this process?
http://www.raptorforumz.com/showthre...t=14043&page=2
Jeff
Are you referring to Line-X? If so, Line-X is a professional application that isn't DIY like other spray on bed liners. IMO Line-X the best stuff around but you pay a lot for it and it will change the cladding texture to "rough." The local Line-X shop in CO will spray all the cladding for about $500. I had my hood insert sprayed with Line-X after I installed a reverse hood scoop...luv it!Quote:
Originally Posted by PA-99
This is my favorite Line-X'd VX (actually my all time favorite- way to go Patrick Cooper)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/1012.jpg
On another note... I did buy "Showroom New" in black & i'm waiting for some warmer temps to apply it. The currently cold & snowy :_snowplow
Let me know when you're going to do this...I'll come and "help"...Quote:
Originally Posted by VXorado
Been thinking about doing this as well.
Well, I don't know what the temperature in CO is like at the moment, but I've done my cladding a few days ago at the underground parking where it was like +5C/+10C and it worked quite well. Took more than an hour to cure, but worked nonetheless.
I opted for the grey SRN dye in hopes it would match my Kaiser VX. It's not the exact match of course, but I do like the look. I'll snap a few photos when I take it out on a snow. :)
Thanks again Kat! My cladding looked simply horrible with faded spots all over before.
:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by stangri
I mixed the gray and black until I got the color I wanted....maybe buy some and do another coat? My first 3 coats were 2:1 black:gray, then I added a little more black to darken it up a bit for my 4th coat...but don't do 4 coats! Stop at 3 max.
Are you going to use the sprayer like several have done? It makes a better finish.
No, I've cheaped out and used a small roller and a tray. Thankfully VX is small enough so I could finish the whole cladding before the dye started drying up in the tray. :)
I'll see how it looks in the sun before deciding what the next coat is going to be. For now I'm pretty happy with the dull grey I've got.
That Line-x exterior is about as cool as you can get. Won't have to worry about parking at the end of the row with that. I did know that Line-X was not a DIY project, but did not know about the pricing. That is quite expensive just for the cladding. I'm going to try the dye in spring and hopefully see the same results as others!Quote:
Originally Posted by VXorado
Sounds good, I'll let ya know. I don't have a planned day yet but I'll keep an eye on the weather forecast for an approximate date.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile High VX
I have had a silver 2001 for 6 years. I bought it on Ebay with 53,000 miles. Now it has 164,000 miles, thousands on dirt roads in the Mojave Desert and surrounding regions. The cladding slowly turned grey and I resisted Armor-All type short term fixes because of the long term damage. But because of the great discussion here, I decided to try Showroom New.
The first coat was black, about 1/3 thinned with mineral spirits. I put it on with a small cotton rag. It was pretty streaky - I thought it would average out more, like spray paint does, but it dried streaky. It looked incredibly much better though, just needed more than 1 coat.
For the second coat, I used black unthinned, applied with a 2" foam brush. This worked very well and make for great coverage with the streaking pretty much gone. It will probably be gone by tomorrow afternoon, at the rate it was curing.
It looks, so far, like a good solution. It's certainly not an oil-based product, which is good. I've noticed that with just the first coat It was turning heads again. I would post before and after pics but I can't figure that out, so take my wordfor it. It looks great. Thanks for contributing so much info about this everyone.
It has been 2 months since I put the Showroom New on and it looks the same as the day I put it on. It doesn't evaporate away like oil-based products. Now I'm going to help a friend put some on his Jeep.
put mine on the last of November and still looks good as new.
great idea yellowgiz and Adios :thumbup:..... it's been a little over a year since I applied mine, so I'll plan to do update pics real soon.....
I didn't realize that you had changed the cladding cover... I like that SN much better! Nice job, I think I will get into that unless YOU HAVE HEARD OF SOMETHING BETTER NOW?
sure miss AZ! glad to see you still on the forum.
Hey good to see ya on here. I haven't taken "official" update pics, but here's a few. these are about 15 months after I applied it.Quote:
Originally Posted by disasterlady
****Remember*** I mixed the black and gray 2:1 to get a dark charcoal color****
When I use flash it looks much shinier...you can see it.
Pic 1 ,3 AND 4 show some of the damage the shop did when making those tail light guards...that's how light gray my cladding was before! Basically they scratched the dyedlayer off my cladding during install....and never said a word to me...and they do NOT get my biz ever again!
I just touched these areas up and it blended perfectly.
I still haven't touched it with anything...no wax, no treatments, no back-to-black, nothing...got a few scratches from Moab this year, but I haven't even bothered to touch them up yet....maybe I should just wait until after Moab 2013...LoL :laugho:
Haven't heard of anything better. Several have used the GatorBack and it's gorgeous and smooth, but it can chip a little when hit by brush or something....so I didn't want to deal with that, so SN fit my needs better...but the GB sure does look gorgeous.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_4764-1.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSC_6741.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSC_4987.jpg
DAMAGE FROM FAB SHOP....:mado2::mado:
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_4923.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_7488.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_7740.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSC_5002.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSC_5026.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCF4017.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_6646.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...2/DSCN1376.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...DSCN0798-1.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...DSCN0817-2.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...2/DSCN0824.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...2/DSCN0896.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...2/DSCN0746.jpg
I have just applied SN on my Proton, which had terrible fading. I used just the black dye, applying with an old sock. First coat was VERY streaky! Second coat was darker and less streaky, but still streaky! For the third coat, I diluted the dye 2:1 with thinner and it has delivered even better results, but... I still can see the streaks!
Perhaps I should just let it try a bit more. I might just put on a forth coat (after thinning it a bit more). This product seems to be easier to apply when it is thinner.
BTW, I am still on my first 4oz bottle! It is almost gone, but still the same bottle! I am not sure how you guys can use up 2-3 bottles!
Might be why you have streaks. I thin every application with mineral spirits and could apply two full coats with one bottle. If you're streaks don't go away, I would continue adding coats until you at least use a full bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon R
Overall, I'm happy with SN. I treated the cladding twice over the year and used 2.5 bottles.
The only downside is that I can't seem to keep gas from dripping on the cladding under the fuel door and the cladding starts to fade in that area over time. Not a big deal but still annoying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon R
How long are you letting it dry? We found that it stayed streaky for even 12 hrs…I was panicked when I did mine with that first coat.
But after it dries for 12 hrs +, it gets LESS streaky. Did you read about the people that used the Preval sprayer to apply it? They had virtually no streaks. ANd yes, you dilute it to use the sprayer, and a few others commented that diluting it helped with streaking when hand applied. I didn't dilute mine, didn't know to do it. :goof:
BIGGEST TIP! DO NOT try to keep wiping it on when there's very little product on your rag….don't try to stretch it, keep rag pretty wet.
I did that and my front driver side bumper got all messed up (I described it all in my earlier posts).
I also applied 4 coats, and would not recommend that…at least stop at 3 coats.
Post some pics :thumbup:
I applied Showroom New to our Vx "Elvira" last weekend and was not at all happy with the results. I read everyone's posts on the procedure and was very careful to clean the cladding and strip any residue off. I applied a total of three coats and used liberal amounts, but in the end the streaking was unacceptable. I'm told that it's likely that the cladding had previously been treated and therefore wouldn't absorb the Showroom New. There is a little evidence of that since in some sections it scratches with my fingernail to gray, but in other sections it doesn't.
Bottom line: It's getting Line-x'ed Monday.
I've also read that since you can't tell if an old application of Showroom New or another coating has been previously applied, only trial and error will let you know if it's going to be successful. It was worth the $30 to find out, but I do wish I had known before I started.
My local Line-X Dealer quoted us $600 for all the cladding, hood insert and hood scoop in black with UV protection. He said it would take all day. So Monday, Elvira goes in to be Line-X'ed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssignature
What applicator did you use?
How long did you let it dry between the 3 coats?
Take any pics?
I bought some pads that have microfiber cloth on the outside and foam on the inside-- palm sized. I used enough Showroom New that it didn't run, but wasn't drying out. I waited about a hour between coats. Each coat was as streaky as the last. I shook it thoroughly in the bottle and mixed it up again in a glass jar. Applied it in 70 degree weather out of the sun. Basically, I followed all of the advice I've seen. I absolutely believe it had previously been treated. I really can't blame the product. Maybe I should have wiped it down with acetone prior to applying it, but the manufacturer's instructions said soap & water (used purple power), rinsed it and let it dry. I'm not upset, Line-X is a better solution anyway.
ALSO>>> I applied some to the step on the back bumper of my 2000 Rodeo and it looks flawless.
Yeah the Line-X will look great!Quote:
Originally Posted by ssignature
I think it may have been much better if you let each coat dry more like 6+ hrs or more (despite what bottle says). I found it looked significantly different from one hour drying time vs. 6 - 24 hr drying. Don't know why, but the streaks definitely went away.
I've noticed the streaking on other VX's I've seen in person too, but it does seem to vary from truck to truck, probably depending on what was done in the past as you suggest. Good luck with the Line-X, I can't recall anyone here ever being unhappy with the result so I'm sure you'll be happy. Be sure to post pics!!!
Just got the Vx Line-X'ed today. did the cladding and the hood insert (with a hood scoop). OMG. OMG. Best $600 you can ever spend. Ride on maypops but get your cladding Line-X'ed. Pics to follow when the sun comes up.
I have a new project VX and was thinking of doing the Line-X on the cladding too. Spoke with a racer buddy who sprays it, told me it would not stick. So I am definitely interested in how it holds up for you.
PS: Look for a new build thread coming soon......:eekgray:
I did a lot of research on it. The info about it not sticking is old. They've had products and techniques to shoot it on to plastic cladding for a number of years.
Has anyone else tried Marlin's application method? I am all for the easy method. I am have currently applied a couple of test spots. If there is a second to Marlins method that is the one I will use.
Armour All came out with a new item that makes your cladding look like new. Very easy. Wipe on , let sit a bit then wipe off. I put two coats on my V and it looks great.
Show room new does not need to be wiped off, touched up or redone. I did mine a few years ago, still looks black. Maybe Billy will jump on here and attest to it. His VX has faded grey cladding, mine still looks black and new compared to it. I even did the gas cap cover since I had a bit of overlap, its still on there...lol:)Quote:
Originally Posted by 1beres
agree with Chris on the look, the one I have at his house is almost gray, the other one I did looks the same as Chris's dark black and never been touched since I did it almost 2 years ago.
My cladding is being done right NOW!!
Apparently the trick is to rough it up/chemcal clean/etch/prime...Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffy
...then fully envelope the cladding inside and out.
The line-X bonds to itself (obviously!)..and by enveloping the cladding
this helps avoid peel away at edges.
Cost at Line-X San Diego for this treatment .........$600.
Jo
And those dealers that don't understand that, don't want to do it. Talking to my guy, if they do understand it, they'll generally give you the lifetime warranty. 600 seems to be the magic number.
Yup....
My guy says some dealers are just P/Up bed guys...and dont want to venture into anything else....
........so quote CRAZY prices to deter people.
Luckily my guy is excited...he loves doing strange stuff.
His warranty....lifetime...and if I badly scratch the cladding...just take off the piece
and he'll re-shoot it before any chance of it starting to peel......:thumbup:
Seems like a great deal to me.
I'm getting "satin" finish, medium texture...with UV protection.
Jo
That sounds like exactly what we got. My guy says the same thing, he's excited to try new things. And since he's owned 3 Troopers, he loved seeing (and test driving) the Vx. When we were in getting some stuff touched up, he was showing off the Vx, telling someone, "This is the VehiCross I told you about!" Love it.
First coat of SB using marlin's method done. Looks like crap. But you all said the first coat looks like crap. Right????
RIGHT??????
Mine looked like crap after three coats. I have enough left that we're going to do it to my niece's VX but this time we're going to spray it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bssage
There's no shortcut to applying this stuff. Applicator and stroke technique are real important. Also, dry time between coats (NOT the instructions on bottle of 20 minutes).Quote:
Originally Posted by ssignature
Did you read this thread with all the detailed application tips? Yes it's long, but there's very detailed info. see post #1, #58 and #63
Don't think anyone else tried Marlin's method because his expectations may have been different than most of us, as his is a real trail rig, "pretty" isn't a high priority to him.
Did you look at my detailed pics?
Do you see any of the horrible streaking?
I had one problem area (front driver bumper) cuz I tried to stretch it as I was running out….and got streaks from the 2" roller brush. Fixed it up with more coats.
Comes out even better when diluted with mineral spirits and sprayed on. Several did it that way.
STREAKS:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2977.JPG
NO STREAKS (or very few):
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3159.JPG
Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
I can attest to this. You need to wait about 24 hours between coats, or at least over night.
I take offense to that comment Sue! Mine has few to no streaks in it, I just used dawn dish soap to get all the armorall crap off it and then smeared it on with a brush from HF. I think those with streaks are having issues with repeated spray on products that are saturated into the plastic, preventing the etching of the dye.
I think the real issue is to remember that it is a dye, not a paint. If you are doing multiple coats, you are using it like a paint, therefore it will scratch off, peel off etc...if it is dyed into the plastic, I can scratch mine and fairly deep it stays black. That means the dye soaked into the plastic. I have to wonder that if by diluting, you are minimizing the penetration of the chemical.