Using about one minute of my time, & the search function, I found this...:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by johnny010
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ighlight=axiom
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Using about one minute of my time, & the search function, I found this...:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by johnny010
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ighlight=axiom
Can someone describe the rod knock sound for me? I have a sound that reminds me of an exhaust leak, but I can only hear it INSIDE the cabin. The motor makes no such noise with the hood up. Also, the motor noise is very loud (like the sound of air blasting out of it) when at throttle. This is another thing that makes me believe there is an exhaust leak.
I just drove it 850 miles. I'll be checking the oil before I leave my office in a few hours. Wish me luck.
Might be that your EGR nut has come loose. The EGR valve is between the intake manifold and the firewall, and the nut threads UP into the bottom of the valve. There have even been cases where it's come all the way out of it's threads and has been found just spinning at the bottom of the EGR tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by boondocksaint
(Similarities from another thread) http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...hlight=egr+nut
Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago, resulting in a "dieseling" sound during acceleration. If that's the case, a simple re-tightening of the nut with a 22mm wrench should do the trick. At the time, I also applied some anti-sieze to the threads before tightening, and while I can't say for sure that the anti-sieze helped it stay tight, I do know that it hasn't happened again.
are these failures do to starvation from gunk build up ?
if so has anyone tried the A.T.F. trick
Much obliged. I'll check it as soon as I can. It was about a quart low after about 1000 miles of driving. I know that's within spec to Isuzu, but not for me. I'll be replacing the PCV and EGR soon. Which part of the EGR tube should be replaced? I know there are two parts. I just don't know which one clogs. I've got my fingers crossed that this will eliminate the oil burning for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y33TREKker
The tube itself is generally what can become clogged, but it doesn't necessarily need to be replaced. It can be taken off and cleaned too.Quote:
Originally Posted by boondocksaint
While I didn't read through the entire thing, this thread has a link that probably includes about everything you would ever need to know about the EGR valve: removal and re-installation, cleaning, etc.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...light=egr+tube
Again, much obliged. I know little about these cars, but am not new to wrenching on cars overall. Had a Subaru Impreza WRX/STi for a few years and recently totaled my 99 E36 M3. Turning a wrench isn't new, but the first time doing things is still just as intimidating now as ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y33TREKker
The good news is that at least there's some room to work on these things if necessary, where compared to some cars today...uhm yeah...not so much. :_brickwal
Doesn't sound like you'll have any problems with this one, but even if you do, there's usually someone hanging out around here to provide a quick answer if you need it.
UPDATE: I do smell gas in my oil, but the oil is not thin and I can read it just fine (1000 miles of driving on this change, most of it a long highway trip at interstate speeds). Just a quart low. I added a quart this evening and will re-measure in the morning before work.
The EGR should be here Friday and the plan is to swap it and the PCV this weekend (Sunday). I'll clean out the tubes as well.
UPDATE: EGR was fine, so I did not swap it. PCV was slightly clogged. Replaced it. Cleaned the MAF. Cleaned the throttle body, changed the rear diff fluid. Also discovered that the fan clutch is toast. No one local had one. I can source one from car-stuff.com for ~$60, but I need to wait. Believe it or not, I might be selling it today. Already informed prospective owner of fan clutch, etc. :lol:
Oh, and why the Hell did my driver's side window regulator suddenly stop working? It was working down South a week and a half ago. Does the cold do this, or did it just crap out?
I looked all over and could not find the link to start a new thread. So I saw this link that may be of interewst to those who had engine failure
http://www.sfmslaw.com/class-action-...FRwUawodbjSE0g
Looks like a lawyer looking to build a class action law suit for defective 3.2 and 3.5 engines
Too bad Isuzu had a recall. A lot of people simply didnt take advantage and didnt get their engines replaced. As soon as the warranty on current Isuzus run out Isuzu is gone for good. Which means no more new parts. Not that anyone buys them, and much exist to begin with. lol. Especially for these VX.
What a minute. There's been no recall or lawsuit. A law firm is investigating the possibility of a class action lawsuit. It may or may not happen. Nothing has changed for now. A failed engine will hopefully get replaced under warranty. Out of warranty, out of luck, just like any engine and any auto maker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Med!c
Mark
Well folks, I know I haven't posted here much...(at all) But I've read the forum and your tips were helpful on many ocasions.
Driving home from work on the PA turnpike Friday the oil light came on and stayed on (I know I should have pulled off and dumped oil in, but I didn't) I had plans to change the oil on sunday, honest.
Well, Engine started knocking and, not being familiar with that particular noise I didn't imediatly shut her down.
She stopped running and I made it to an emergency pull off and as soon as I identified that I was out of my depth I sumoned a service truck.
An hour later they showed up.
thirty minutes after that a flatbed showed up.
An hour and $90 later we pulled into a former isuzu dealer. I made the decision to leave her there as that would be the most likely place to get parts.
I spoke with the folks there and asked them to do a diognostic.
They did and report that she needs a new engine for $8900 + labor.
I'm not sure where we are going from here...but I think my time as a VehiCross owner is very limited.
99 Astral 105k miles (I think)
wow bummer that totally sucks! Let us know if you figure out a better option in case it happens to another one.
Wow, thats gotta hurt. I have only about 50k on my 83k VXQuote:
Originally Posted by Farfri
I think turning it off when you first heard the knock, would have still probably been too late.
Is the 8900 for a short block or long block?
Sorry but $ 10 k (I'm including the labor) is just not worth to do at a dealer.
You can purchase an remanufactured engine for half the amount the stealership is charging.
These engines aren't worth to be purchase new,they jusy not reliable because even brand-new you must still keep tabs on the oil compsumtion.
Hell, for $8900 you could bid on that supercharged VX, swap the motor and have a ton of extra goodies and spare parts!:bwgy:
I honestly don't know. he said the price and I moved on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike
Out of curiosity what is the difference between the short and long block?
I found this on ebay wonder if it would work...still not sure what I'm doing.
I would contact them though and see if tehy have a 3.5Quote:
Originally Posted by Farfri
Alright, well, it looks like the stealership is gonna give me a grand for her. I hate to see my baby go, but given the givens it is probably for the best.
My only advice, is advice I've read elsewhere.
CHECK THE OIL every time you fill the gas tank.
I only wish I'd read that earlier.
Anyhow, Take care VXers.
Yep I set my phone's alarm to check my oil every week and add oil probably every other. I would like to have my VX forever. Sure am sorry to hear about your loss :-[
$8900 PLUS LABOR? You'd still be getting raped for $8900 including labor. Find another shop ASAP!Quote:
Originally Posted by Farfri
I just got quoted $7150 for the repair on mine. That included parts and labor. The engine comes with a 3-year, unlimited miles warranty too, which is pretty sweet.
For $8900 plus labor, they are obviously quoting all new parts from Isuzu. That's definitely not the way to go...
I'll have to ask my Dad what his shop charges to do this. I thought he said a replacement engine from Jasper was only like $4K, so it's hard to believe you'd have another $3K in labor on top of that. Of course his shop is in rural North Carolina where labor rates are not nearly as high...
Somebody around here would give you a grand for it. If I wasn't up to my eyes in a rebuild I would come get it from ya.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farfri
No kidding. You could probably part it out for that much. Don't suppose you have any mods on it do you? :naughty:Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffy
Yeah, the labor is only $1730 (high, but not horrible). The engine and all related parts came in around $4800. The rest of the cost was tax and towing. I can definitely do all of this much cheaper back in VA, but if insurance is covering it, I'll let them handle it.Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Just an extra 2cents. Besides the fact that reading this thread has seriously bummed me out about buying a VX. A failure of 600 in 6000 is 10% not 1%.
Make yourself feel better by comparing the replacement costs against buying a brand new car for $30K+. :)
Don't get discouraged!
Where did you get the 600 number?Quote:
Originally Posted by Junster
He's quoting you:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtew
Whew! I thought he was quoting an actual engine failure statistic, not my own reverse bad math from 4 years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
It's a good thing that I'm a "Doubting Thomas", ( Well, make that a "Suspicious Scott." )
'cuz if I would have believed everything I heard about the VX, I wouldn't be the happy owner of one now! Hell, I've got a '98 Explorer with 150,000 miles on it (The same as my VX, by the way.) and it was supposed to blow up a loooooong time ago!!
From you, Sry just a little anal about math.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtew
I'm still sold on buying a VX btw. All cars have some failures, one thing I noticed if it's true, hard to tell from just pics. Does the PCV valve lay on it's side? They need to be straight up to really work right. Also are there really no rocker arms? I'm curious how the cams actuate the valves. And how you adjust the valves. Has anyone just put the 02 oil rings on the 99-01 pistons? This oil usage thing has me curious. Isuzu is know for good quality engines generally.
No, it's upright.Quote:
Originally Posted by Junster
Not complete failure though, but white smoke at initial start up. I took for engine done....
That's correct. We don't need no stinkin' rocker arms!Quote:
Originally Posted by Junster
Our camshafts are driven by internal idler gears instead of a chain. We also have a spring loaded sub-gear assembly that takes up the back lash in the gears to provide high-precision valve timing and reduced noise. Valve action is controlled through an inverted bucket type tappet that rides against the camshaft lobe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Junster
http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/...vx4/valves.gif
Valve adjustment is made by increasing or decreasing the thickness of the shim until the correct amount of valve clearance is obtained.Quote:
Originally Posted by Junster
This is a very rare Isuzu Tech video I have for adjusting the valves, if ya really wanna see how it's done.
7:11, 14.1 mb, 320x240, wmv file-
http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/techvids/valvadj.wmv
I'm an original owner with 238,000 miles on my engine. The valves have never been adjusted. It purrs like a kitten and runs like a dream, so I never saw a reason to have that done.
Mark Griffin (a VX lifer) :_steering
Thanks for a clear and detailed reply. It helped a lot. It's killing me trying to be patient cause I can't fund buying one for myself till March. I bookmarked and DL your link also.