Wow, this got my attention...
I have 4 bottles and some thirsty, faded cladding just waiting for good weather to align with a day off.
JAMAS, I hope it works out for you, bud. I'm planning to pad it on, NOT use a sprayer now. Keep us posted!
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Wow, this got my attention...
I have 4 bottles and some thirsty, faded cladding just waiting for good weather to align with a day off.
JAMAS, I hope it works out for you, bud. I'm planning to pad it on, NOT use a sprayer now. Keep us posted!
I realize you're saying the streak occurs when you overlap a tiny bit on the previous row (I think I interpreted that correctly)...but I think...Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
?You may be pushing your fingers just a little too hard on the terry sponge, and more product is coming out that you want. When "gergmon" came up to do his in my garage, he kept having that problem, his fingers were pushing too hard on the sponge thing and it made 4 streaks horizontally...so I mentioned to keep your fingers vertical when going horizontally with the applicator.
I think the term is "feathering"...I generously applied the product horizontally and completed a pass on the entire SECTION I was doing, then immediately took the sponge thing and went back over it using lighter and lighter pressure until it looked really uniform......but also DON'T go over so much that it dries it out (I made that mistake on my front driver's bumper).
Another thought....how far in are you dunking your sponge cloth thing?
I used a rectangular one, and only dipped mostly the corner, maybe 1/2" -3/4" into the dye. Could it be you have too much product on the sponge and that's why there's streaks being left??
I feathered and feathered with this thing, mostly with out re-dipping.
You can tell which "corner" I used mainly and can tell I laid it a little flatter when I did the feathering..that's how the rest of the cloth got black. It was this technique that smoothed out/blended/evened out the streaks.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3393.JPG
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
Yes, dry time is important IMHO. I let sit an hour tween coats in warm but not humid weather. Also did mine in the shade.
Dunno what happened with your Preval sprayer, DO NOT SHAKE it, the cap has a vent hole, it you shake it, it will leak, i found that out the hard way too. Also dont overfill, and always keep the sprayer upright for the same reason. I ended up with dye on my shirt and shoes, and I was trying to be really carefull.
Since the dye is diluted for the spray, the pigment goes on lighter but wetter and requires more dry time. I suck at spray painting so I had a few runs which eventually blended in OK, but resist the temptation to spray more to fix somthing without letting it dry first, thats a sure fire recipe for runs. So spray lightly and let dry fully before going back to fix things. Yes "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!" is exactly what you should do, hehe, at least until it dries fully. Adding more while its still wet is just going to make things worse.
Maybe your sprayer was defective, I dunno. Used carefully I thought it was fairly impressive, tho I did get a bit messy too.
I had similar results as Jamas, using first the roller, then a foam brush, and then the Preval sprayer. What a mess. What worked for me finally, getting a nice even coat and getting rid of the streaks, was to take the remaining dye, diluted at about 2 parts dye to 1 part spirits on a plain old shop rag (i.e. well worn and many times washed t-shirt) and just lightly wiped it over the whole shebang after it had had two days in the sun to dry. This filled in the streaks (and they were really ugly) pretty much flawlessly. It just took time. I did the pure black dye myself, and I think it looks like new.
I took back the "broken" sprayer to my local Rockler shop and they switched it out for a new one. The guy is pretty sure it got clogged...sputtered....then the back pressure filled the glass jar causing it to blow the seal. Apparently if the sprayer starts to sputter, you have to do some crazy hold down the red button and spray while standing on one foot...or somthing like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grif
So nervous and anxious to try it.....might try it tonight....maybe...
This sounds promising. Perhaps I will try this first in a small section. Especially since you seem to have had the exact experience I have had and ended your "saga" with success. Although the only thing I have right now is the mixture of 2 parts mineral spirits to 1 part dye that was prepared in the preval sprayer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiredgoon
At this juncture...my biggest recommendation is to find a wrecked piece of cladding and use it as "practice". Perhaps someone can sawzall up some 1 foot sections and sell them cheap cheap to those wishing to try this process out...just a thought.
Alright....I'm back.....with...
SUCCESS!!!!
The preval sprayer worked like a charm. my HORRIBLE streaks are all but a distant memory. I havent seen all of it in the sun yet (did it in the evening when it was cool and shady) but I did see the one side before the sunset too much and it was ...dare I say it....PERFECT!
When spraying, you must....must must must "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!"
I retract this statement:The spray runs something fierce and scares the bajeebus out of you. But somehow, some way....it all fades in and looks terrific. Keep in mind, its a dye not a paint. so it wont dry "raised" ...all those drops will fade away.
I am leaving everything masked off for tonight and might hit a few touch up spots tomorrow. Then I will take some "after" shots to go with my "before" shots and post them for all to see. My fingers are crossed that the sunrise doesn't bring any surprises.
So.....
what I believe to be the best way to apply this....
Step 1: liberrally apply with your choice of applicator pads. Coverage is more important than streaking.
Step 2: let dry for 24 hours
Step 3: Apply second coat in same manner
Step 4: let dry for 24 hours
Step 5: use Preval sprayer. (if preval sprayer starts to "sputter" STOP and read box on how to clear clog)
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
:jump::jump::jump::jump:
This morning brought a few surprises and a status change from Perfect to....almost perfect.
The streaking has gone, but a few runs have shown themselves. I did some touch up spray this morning it its almost all better....
I think I will give it a week, then hit the whole thing ONE LAST TIME. regardless of what this morning brought, I still recommend the sprayer.
You guys are cracking me up. In the Navy, we would say you are nuking it out, meaning you are making something WAY WAY harder than it needs to be. I am telling you, 29cent HF 2" paint brush, one bottle, buy 2 just in case, and away you go. No fancy technique, no sprayer and certainly no mess. The streaks clear out after a few days since it is a dye and not paint. I spent less than 2 hours doing the entire project. Just paint it on, wait a day or two, touch up any lighter spots, and voila, fancy black looking plastic:smack::smack: :dance:
If it isn't 100% to your liking, go spend a bunch of money on a sprayer and whatnot, then go over it again. If it does work, you saved a bunch of money and time. I don't see how there is any risk in this concept?
I must have bought the difficult version then :) ...I think my problem was not waiting long enough. I think the "wait a day or 2" part is the most important.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
The sprayer cost all of $5-$7 (depending on where you buy it)Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Pics? Interested to see the pure black on a Foxfire, I think it looks great on Ironman and Proton but curious to see the contrast against a dark color.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiredgoon
Has anyone tried a product called "BlackWow"? Just curious as it was mentioned in another forum with good results...Some links to the product below
http://www.showcarsupplies.com/bw/
I have not, but one thing that caught my eye is "provides a rich, long lasting look (measured in months)". This indicates its more of a temporary solution that you need to apply to your car on a schedule similar to wax. Showroom New provides a Permanent solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by VXD959
It might be good on our mirrors/roof rack/etc. though.
Ok so was planning on doing this this weekend but they are calling for scattered showers for the next 5 day or so. What would be the shortest time for it to dry before I would have to worry about rain causing a problem. Or at least best guess.
Bottle's indicated dry time (20 minutes)....LIES!!..
In my opinion, you shouldn't TOUCH the cladding for at least 24 hours after you put on the first coat.
Best of luck.
So if 30 minutes before rain hits think it will be safe till next day?
Can you rephrase that?Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowgizmo99
in my opinion, you shouldnt expose your cladding to anything but dry air for 24 hours. Again, this is my opinion.
I was trying to say if it is not going to rain in the next 30 minutes I would be safe to apply the dye. From your above statement I think I will wait till this weather blows over.
Yeah, if I would say patience is the one thing I learned from applying this dye.
It looks just fantastic though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowgizmo99
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
I agree....wait until you have many days of clear weather. Mfg told me it dries a little slower in humid weather........ my humidity is only around 12%...and it still took at LEAST 6-8 hrs before it dried (and recall I said it keeps changing in appearance for at least a few hrs so it must be still "drying".
WOW! Yours looks fantastic JAMAS! :thumbup:.......um, oh wait, you didn't post any pics yet....... :rolleyes:
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;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
I know I know I know....I need to take some. I want to run ONE MORE spray coat over top to clear up a couple areas. Then I will take a couple "After" shots:)
Yea I remember when I went to Las Vegas and people were complaining that it was in the double digits humidity wise and coming from the east coast on the water I was like it gets that low, lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
Where have I heard this before?Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
ha! You're probably right. But its been drying for a couple weeks so I think another shot wouldn't hurt.
hmmmm....7/28 to 8/5...that's 8 days by my math..."LEAVE IT ALONE JON" :pQuote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
JON... walk away away from the vehicle. srsly Let it sit. More is not better necessarily better.
Don't make us send Grif up there to smack you and take away your sprayer and dye! :slap:......'course if you'd ever post pics we'd see how it looks, then we might not have to send in the heat to control you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Grif
You guys are just HILLARIOUS:)
My plan was to spray a couple spots that still showed some drips, but only after a couple weeks. My plan was/is to give it a good scrubbing and reanalyze what , if anything, needs to be done. However, that will occur a week from today. So it will be roughly 2 weeks before I do anything.
well I got one day friday to do and was going to do the second coat next day and of course rain came in early so no second coat, will be trying sometime this week after work. I think they are calling for rain every day except wednesday and thursday. Looks good so far, no pics as of yet. for those that used the sprayer what did you use for thinner? OK I found, Mineral Spirits is what is used.
Thanks to VX Kat. I was working on my soundproofing project. The weather was nice, 50 degrees and dry. I washed the car, wiped down the cladding with isopropyl alcohol. I thinned the SN with mineral spirits just a little, maybe 25%. I used a 4" foam brush and a throw away bristle brush for tight spots, cladding screws, etc. I have a proton yellow vx, so I used plain black dye. After one coat, the vx looked great, a couple of steaks and misses. The second coat really smoothed it all out. I used approx. 6 oz. of product, and the vx looks great! I could not be more pleased.
Thanks, Sue for being the Guinea pig.
Dave
Sounds like it will look great, the Proton with blacker cladding is awesome! :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveMcKenz
Don't recall anyone else cutting it with mineral spirits when applying it with a brush.....:_thinking:_thinking
Is there an advantage to thinning it out with brush use? Maybe less streaks or something??
I have an update as well. I've noticed that the cladding is much more prone to being stained by spilled gas than it was before applying the dye.
Just something to be careful of.
Interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiredgoon
I found just the opposite to be true. I've only dribbled gas on the cladding twice. Once before SRN dye and once after. Both times i was able to get it wiped off quickly and effects were minimized, but after the SRN dye, it seemed easier. I have no idea why. YMMV I guess.
So I want to have black cladding to match my black hood, what do I get? Gatorback or Showroom New? Have we make a collective "forum decision" on which one is better?
IMO, Gatorback is much smoother and uniform looking, BUT it will chip off when abraded. I found that SRN didn't really "chip" off when it got trail rash, but did show something like scratches from it, and you can just touch it up lightly with a rag. I think Grif, didn't you find that to be true? That's the ONLY reason I decided not to try GatorBack....so anybody that encounters trail rash....might want to seriously consider that. However, I THINK I recall Mike Nomy said he also could also touch up the GB with just spraying more on.....I think....I'd have to re-read this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by VXorado
Oh, forgot to mention....hubby did drip just a few drops of gas on the cladding :mado2:.. ...and because I had previously advised him to NEVER rub it with any type of rag...he left it and it came right off at home, no residual at all......well, maybe a few days off my life, but no visual evidence that the cladding ever got gas on it. (but hey, how can I be upset with my hunny doing me a favor and getting the gas that day :heart:) ..:laugho:
Gatorback is a bedliner, it is very thick and replaces the surface of the cladding with a tough abrasive resistant coating. Your cladding surface texture will not be the same after Gatorback.
SRN is simply a thin layer of dye. It does not affect the texture of the original cladding. It just dyes it back to it normal darker color. It does not alter the plastic properties of the original cladding but since surface scratches often manifest themselves as lighter in color, SRN does a great job at hiding them.
Gatorback will entirely coat cladding with a full new surface, new texture with different properties of the original cladding. It does not look like original cladding, or act like it. And yes if your Gatorback coat does eventually get scratched or damaged, you can simply spray another coat to "fix" it. (at a much greater cost than SRN)
Hardcore trail riders might benefit from Gatorback or similar bedliner products, but I prefer SRN because it adds no thickness, retains the look, texture and feel of the original cladding, and does a good job of re-mediating superficial scratches from trail brush. Furthermore, when Gatorback does chip off (which it can) you are dealing with a much deeper surface to repair and may require multiple coats of gatorback to get it back into repair. With the SRN dye there is nothing to chip, to fix, you simply wipe on. Its simply a surface dye, not a re-coating with a different plastic like Gatorback is.
Thanks Kat & Grif, that sums it up pretty well. I think I'll go with the SN mostly because i'm worried about the GB chipping off from tight trails & becoming a pain repairing it.