I think you should put the plate upside down and draw an "x" through it with a sharpie. Keep doing that for all the donor vehicles you use and you'll look like a WWI ace in the engine bay. ;)
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I think you should put the plate upside down and draw an "x" through it with a sharpie. Keep doing that for all the donor vehicles you use and you'll look like a WWI ace in the engine bay. ;)
'68-'72 is my favorite classic truck style! Next to my office is a weird psuedo/ghetto/classic car storage lot and there is a white '68 bowtie stepside in there that always tempts me - I have a disease. :bwgy:
I wanted that VIN plate cuz the matching engine, trans, instruments, and harnesses are all connected to the VIN so it's the code for the heart of this ride and since the L33 option was so rare, it adds a bit more cool to it - I also like the idea of having the VIN in case of tuning issues. I like your idea of the 'kills' tho! Too bad there is no way to have the dogtags of all my victims at this point... :( That would be SIX extra VIN plates on the firewall so far HAHA! :cool: If I ever get to build the dedicated rat-rock-rod I have envisioned I will be all over that idea, Mav!
I should do that with all the plates I've had on previous vehicles hahahaha. Ya I love the 67-68 chevy grille the best, they just look sweet, I really want a 68' crew cab conversion!
Can someone direct me to a good source of info on how to graft this sheet metal on to the Blazer?
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/...0f682302_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5059/...f3145cbd_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/...a6405b38_b.jpg
amigo flares!!!! You could do it a number of ways. Spot weld the panels in place working from one end and then switching to the other back and forth until you get it basically welded up, grind the welds, some body filler and/or glass. You could straight glass it in, you could use lead and melt it in with that like the old school body guys.
Those are Pathfinder fenders actually - much easier to find than the Amigo fenders. And I already knew that I was going to spot/stitch weld them in place but I just want to make sure I go thru the process correctly. I have weldable primer to go under the flare and on the quarter panel behind the flare. I just don't want to end up with some bondo cracked rusted panel...
Gotcha, those Pathfinder flares do look alot like Amigo ones. Gonna be sweet! I'll see if I can find a good video, you just wanna make sure you let your welds cool and keep jumping sides and leaving a little space in between the welds at first to not warp anything.
So then my 4" flare 2" rise fiber fenders came in!!! These were tough to find but I have had my eye on them for over a year. I chose the axle combination based on the idea of the extra width afforded by these front fenders and the Pathfinder fenders grafted to the rear. 8" wide 4.5" backspaced wheels work just about perfectly with this setup - barely legal! :bgwo:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/...9e6a8c64_b.jpg
Oh, the front axle is shown at it's full compression location in these pics. After flexing out, the tires should tuck up in there nicely. :)
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/...c345357b_b.jpg
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I was also RIGHT about the prospect of using a Hummer H3 DBW gas pedal in combination with the Sierra pedal to create a pedal assembly of a more compact size. I removed the H3 pedal and springs (slightly softer setup than the Sierra) from it's housing and added that to the Sierra housing and it fits perfectly on the firewall while clearing the steering column!!! I'll be making up a simple how-to for folks familiar with the search function on LS1Tech.com and some S-10 forums. :laughgray Yes, I am a courteous prick!
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/...0bbc9c3a_b.jpg
awesome job man! I honestly wish my truck used a cable instead of the DBW. Never been a fan of DBW. That H3 setup looks like it will save a good bit of space, good deal!
Justin, looks awesome. Can't wait to see the final product. I need to call you...
Bart
Thanks gents. The DBW affords me cruise control with no vacuum needed and that I like, plus I like how everything is tied together by working with the APP which is pretty simple.
Bart, I'll be hittin up some Pres Day sales and otherwise in the garage all weekend so ring me up!
Better hurry up if your going to have it ready for ZuZoo:bwgy:
Going to look good!
HAHA! I know huh - the pressure is on! I'm hopeful but not confident. :(
You guys may be wheeling with a big Jeep in tow!
Ya the DBW cleans everything up I've just never been a fan of tuning it for performance and the throttle response feels so much slower in kicking in on my truck than any cable vehicle. You could ease on the throttle with a cable now if I barely ease on it it does nothing until it reach "that" point than all of a sudden, gas. Plus maybe it's me, I like being in control of it lol.
I like flooring it so it works for me! LOL
hahahaha true that!
I have been using Revit Architecture 2012 to model a few things on the Blazer. I also acquired some parts over the last few months and have done crap loads of research and parts watching. I have studied the chassis, firewall, steering box mount and all the parts that I know will be going in and it plainly came down to making a serious decision. I was overwhelmed with the thought of cutting the frame at the firewall, effectively removing the strongest section of frame and leaving the weakest in tact. So I took several measurements across the body and frame - most important, the body mounts. I chose the wheel and tire size I would like and modeled them to scale (or close anyway). I then started modeling the parts I had in hand to use or reuse.....
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...xy_Ghosted.jpg
This where I am at right now - the rear floor section has been modeled, the fuel tank with connections at the top, the body mounts, the Cage Offroad radius arms, reference points on the frame and body.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...er_Ghosted.jpg
I aim to build a tube chassis or perhaps a hybrid of rectangle steel and tube - I have 1 3/4" DOM in hand and the tubing bender mounted. I am nervous because of the scale of it. :( But by modeling everything beforehand I should make less waste and mistakes. :o
I am hunting for a driver side drop 27 spline NP241C... the later the better. I already have a '94 32 spline so I could settle for a 27 spline input shaft as well. :yesgray: Oh and an aluminum radiator that will cool an LS. These items need to be modeled before I would start building...
Man, dude, I wish you lived over here. We could gang bang our mutual projects. I'm guessing your situation is basically like mine, 100% solo. It sucks not having a helper to motivate you and assist you. It gets tough and extremely overwhelming. All three of my Zus need wrench time right now, and it sucks and stresses me out bigtime.
The project looks cool though. Try to stay focused, and eat it like an elephant.
Bart
Sounds like you guys should organize a "Zu-pack" and pick days where you all get together (fly/drive whatever....yes $$$ I know ) and work on somebody's project.
Zeus...if your going tube frame ya might as well go full on buggy then just bolt the body panels on.:)
sounds like I need to pack up my garage and move out west
hahaha
Yeah man I could use your help and support big time thru this! My roommate (you 'Zoo 2011ers met Spencer) wants to help out as much as he can but he has his own life also. I am trying to assign the wiring and some interior stuff to him tho so I can focus on the big items! We removed the frame last weekend so the body is just hanging out on stands all alone now.
HAHA that's right, we have talked about it... I still consider moving to Reno but I gotta tackle this first.
Nah, it is still to be my daily, plus I am only going to have ~4" of uptravel so this is no Ultra-4 rig. The front end tho will mimic a buggy to some degree!
I TOLD YOU!!! See ya in Reno! :p Did you ever ask your buds about their experience with those Rancho coil overs for me? I'm still trying to figure out spring n shock items...
I went to Tear-A-Part today and found a '92 Suburban 1500 Auto with an NP241. Tore it out with 3 sockets and a clamp, carried it 100 yards as if I were performing in a Worlds Strongest Wee-man competition, and spent $100. It shifts great, had no signs of leakage, and mated right up to my trans. I'll probably order the SYE from JB later.
Don't mind me, I'm just recording what year Pathfinder I took the blower motor, heater core, damper box and ducting from today... it was a '91.
When you get all done, plz try to cypher what % original vehicle is left...:laughing:
Hey, I said I wanted to build my own vehicle! That info would be fun to know tho - to bad I suck at math... :)
Sweet! I need to start hitting Pick & Pull again for some more Trooper stuff. Projects, projects, projects!!
Bart
Got some rims off eBay. BLINGY!! I wanted 17's but when I found billet Centerlines in 16x8 from 1993... BRAND NEW still in plastic!!! ...I jumped on 'em. They match the old skool body but damn are they shiny! Need 1/4" spacers to clear the tie rod end also...
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC00921.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC00918.JPG
Wow, very blingy.
Bart
Those would look cool in black chrome! Nice old school find.
Ooh black chrome is not a bad idea...
Lookin' good Son...totally McDiggn' the racing stripe on the chinny-chin-chin...:thumbup:
Nice wheels too!...:yesgray:
:smilewink
Flavor Saver! :D And thanks.
What flavor might you be saving in your "racing stripe" there, Justin. Might it possibly be fish taco flavor? :eek: :laughing:
Bart
Haha I'll have to get on that!! Get it, get it? ...Get on that! :D
BTW, Saturday is the Utah Undie Run - supposedly 15,000 will be running downtown in our skivvies to protest how uptight Utah is while trying to set a Guinness record! Should be FUN! I wanna go as a Banana in a banana hammock but I'd prob'ly get arrested.