I actually had better luck with standard zip ties than I did with HD. The HD were just too wide. The standard ones fit the grooves much better.
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I actually had better luck with standard zip ties than I did with HD. The HD were just too wide. The standard ones fit the grooves much better.
Well here's something to be aware of: I needed to replace my passenger side lower ball joint due to a tear in the boot. I could NOT get the ball joint to release from the knuckle so I took it to a shop to have them replace the joint while they were installing some real band clamps on the CV boots. I just heard back from the site and they said that in order to do the ball joint swap the book/program that they have states that you need to release the torsion bar to take the pressure off of the A-arms so that you can remove the ball joint. I told them that I had removed the plate that the ball joint is on by just jacking up the lower A-arm to take the pressure off of the joint.
"Oh" was the answer that I got. I know that they are just doing things by the book, and I trust this shop as they are the ones who did the engine swap for me and have always been straight up with me. They are an independent shop, but are run by a VW master mechanic who worked for a couple of the VW dealerships in the area. I'm guessing that he is still doing things by the book which is why his guys aren't thinking outside the box and just jacking up the lower A-arm instead of disconnecting the torsion bar.
Just a heads up to anyone who might have a shop replace their lower ball joints for them. The book/program states that the ball joint swap is .8 hours, but you have to release the torsion bar to do the swap (according to the book) so that adds another .7 hours to the job.
can someone answer a quick question on this topic? Both suretracks on amazon. If I have popping in my left front, this means I need the full assembly including the cup, correct? The longer of the two is driver?
This is probably due to the fact that in a workshop situation, they would most likely be doing this type of work with the vehicle on a hoist and lifted to a comfortable working height. More difficult and a bit dangerous to try and jack up the lower control arm in this instance.Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHardeman
At home with the vehicle on jack stands the obvious method is jacking the LCA.
PK
PK, that's kind of the same thing that I was thinking. It was just fun to tell them that I had done the same thing without having to remove the torsion bar.
Vinnybin, you will probably be fine just buying the "half shafts". The cheapest place that I have found them is Dave's Discount Autoparts:
http://www.davesdiscountautoparts.co...search/iz-8021
Usually the outer CV joint is the one that goes and starts clicking and clacking. This joint takes up and down movement as well as turning movement so it gets pretty hammered. I thought that I was going to have to replace the whole axle from the third member out to the wheel, but once I took my driver side half shaft out I saw that water had gotten into the outer joint somehow and that was the joint that was clacking for me. Unless your inner CV boots are split, and have been for a while, they should be fine.
Billy's write-up (referenced in this thread) is perfect and if you follow it you should have no problem replacing your half shafts.
Hope that helps.
This was the most convenient place I could think of to post this question; does anyone know how to get the outer CV joint apart, or can it be done at all?
I'm trying to rebuild my stock half shafts and the outer CV joint had some water get into it and bugger it up. I don't see the "snap ring" that the inner joint has that would allow the cage and balls to slide out of the cup (outer race) like the inner joint.
Mark, I do not think there is a way to get it all apart. I think they are pressed together somehow. I tried to take mine apart to clean thoroughly and I could not figure it out either, so I just cleaned them as best I could assembled, and then blew out all the old grease and solvent with air. Then I just regreased them up.
Bart
Thanks Bart. After cleaning the joint out and having a good look at I thought the same thing. Looks like it's pressed together somehow because I couldn't find any way to take it apart. With all the water that was in the joint I think it's shot now. With all of the grease out the joint is still sticky and doesn't move as well as it should.
Do you actually see any rust in there?
Bart
Don't see any rust, but the balls look stained (for lack of a better term). I'll see if I can get some pictures of it and post them up. The biggest thing is that the joint doesn't move freely. It seems to catch in a couple of spots unlike some of the other spares that I have lying around. Maybe I'll give it an overnight soak in brake cleaner and see if that will free the joint up any.
I know what you mean, there's kind of some "sticky" spots if you will. I think that is quite normal. I would soak it, blast it out with compressed air, and then regrease it up and see how it feels with fresh grease. No need to throw it away, you never know if you will need it.
Bart
If you have a piece of cheese cloth, rub it around and see if it snags on anything. If so, some emery cloth will fix it up. Cheese cloth is better then your finger, CC doesn't bleed:bgwb:Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHardeman
Mine actually locks up in certain positions so there may still be some crud in the joint that I need to get out. I'll definitely keep it no matter what because the inner joint is completely fine so if it comes down to it I can at least use the parts of the inner joint to rebuild another joint if it ever comes to that. Heck, even rolling on a clacking CV would be fine as a last resort if anything catastrophic happened out in the hinterlands.
Cheese cloth is a great idea Rowhard, but with the joint completely assembled (and no way to take it apart) it would be tough to get the cheese cloth in there to check for rough spots. I may give it a try anyway.
for sure works best when disassembled