OMG. I just saw the pix. It's worse/better than I thought.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
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OMG. I just saw the pix. It's worse/better than I thought.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
OH BOY OH BOY. The shop thinks they fixed it. I stopped in and they were still working on it. I will pick it up in the morning and post pictures.
SO, they removed everything and started over. He said one of the plastic mounting brackets was broken, so he had to get new ones. ISUZU HAD THEM IN STOCK! WOW!!! And the replacements are now metal?! He said they only attach with a plastic (DUH) set screw to the glass, so he used window adhesive to mount to the glass. He had to place several washers under the right side on the top and several on the right side on the bottom (where I had the gap between the regulator guides and the track). He said it stays on the track with no problems but slows a little when the glass gets to about 3" from the top.
I won't be able to test it for 2 days until this adhesvie dries, but I'm excited. He didn't charge me any labor, just $35 for the replacement brackets.
I feel really bad because they started on it at 8am and just now getting done. But I'm thrilled it might be fixed!
Well it appears they fixed it. It goes up and down with no tilt now, but it's really slow and REALLY slow at the top. Also, the rubber on the top of the door panel that runs along the glass now flips under when the window goes down. Maybe due to the shop moving the glass closer? Not sure, but at least I can tint the windows now. Here are some pictures on how they repaired it.
(This is the passenger door)
Before:
Bottom right track after shimming:
Top right track after shimming:
New metal glass mounting brackets from Isuzu:
This is how the guides seat now:
Any suggestions to keep the top rubber gasket from buckling under?
Also, this is how he had to relocate the top guide bolts:
My guess…
that strip has multiple fasteners along it that fasten to the metal tabs on the door shell…sounds like he didn't line it up and hook onto each fastener. Once fastened, that strip can't flip down.
You can pry it up starting at the door lock knob. Be very careful doing it as that has a metal rod inside and if you bend that, it will be a PITA to get it back flat.
ALSO…the slowness TOWARD THE TOP….means it NEEDS LUBRICATION!!! Review the posts that talk about lubricating the rubber channel. Very important, or you'll end up burning out your window motor. Can use 100% pure silicon spray, Teflon Silicone, Dive Silicone
http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...21197251lg.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...47&postcount=8
And consider the discussion earlier in this thread about whether the vertical metal channel needs to be windened and possibly moved a little forward. I, and many many others have done that, with great improvement in the slowness, as it relieves some of the pressure/friction on the front edge of glass along the rubber track. LeonR disagrees with this theory however.
Here's pics of that strip…it's got rubber on the top, but it has metal in it and bends easily!
It hs some fuzzy stuff along the strip to keep dirt out of the window mechanism, and to clean the window (somewhat)
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7896.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7897.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7900.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7901.jpg
Glad you got it fixed!!!
I got the regulator from Buffy over the weekend. I'm all ready to install then modify/fix my old one ... as soon as I get my VX back!!!
see question below...
Has anyone found a workable solution to repair or replace the small white plastic guides that keep the regulator on the track? On the side with two guides, I have one completely missing and the one on the other side is broken.
I have an idea rattling around in the noggin.
I hope to impliment this Friday since the DS on the Proton has gotten really bad. I'll keep you posted.
My problem is the white plastic parts of the crossbar that raise and lower the window are cracked and broken. My window clips that the SBC bracket replaces look fine. Is it possible to just replace this crossbar?Quote:
Originally Posted by Devvon
I'm going to replace those 2 white pieces on the right in your top photo with a couple of brass wheels I 'borrowed' from a pully. I'll let you know how that works out (but it'll be a couple more weeks ... low on the priority list at the moment).
AFAIK the cross bar is not available seperately, you have to buy the whole regulator.
My real problem is the piece in the middle that the cable attaches to, to raise and lower the window. That part is shot. As others have noted, it is a terrible design! Guess I'll be calling Merlin.
One other thing that I recently learnt is that we should NOT be using lithium grease in the window tracks. That gums up as it dries. We should only use a silicon based lubricant (that info comes from recent experience & from the guy who installed my windshield ... so I rekin he knows).
I don't think that I'll be able to get to modifying the regulator this week (up to my eyeballs in repairing the AC on our RV). If I can though, I'll let you know. I'd be willing to do a $0 swap with you for your FUBAR ones & you get to BETA test my enginerding skills (otherwise, I'll put them in Boy's VX to test).Quote:
Originally Posted by fotomaker
Sounds interesting!
I was about to contact Merlin... I can wait until next week, if you like.
I need to get it fixed fairly soon since she is now my DD.
Do you have a strategy on the part of mine that is broken?
Not yet but that'll be my problem if we work out the swap.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by fotomaker
Some pics of unbroken regulator for reference.
First 2 pics are a BRAND NEW one, other 2 are used.
1) New Passenger side
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2243.jpg
2)
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2255.jpg
3)Used Driver side
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7687.jpg
4)Used Driver side
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7686.jpg
OK... Please keep me informed on your progress and success.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Fortunately it's summer and I can drive my Celica.
The problem is after a couple of days with the Celica I start thinking about selling the VX. This parts issue is starting to worry me.
Ordered my new part from Merlin today... Thanks for the help!
fotomaker,
where you able to order just the cross arm or did you have to get the entire regulator assembly?
Jason
have to buy the entire assembly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason
I had to buy the entire assembly. $93, if I remember correctly. The irony is that I could not get the motor off the old assembly so I removed the new cross arm and put it on the old assembly and installed it. All is working well!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason
Hi all,
Its been a long time since I've posted here. I've been busy with my other mode of transportation (1978 Alfa Spider).
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...300/photo4.jpg
When I first got my VX three years ago, I bought the SBC fix before I had even opened my doors up. Both windows were tilting, with the worst being the passenger. I thought that it was a clip issue given the state of the forum at the time. After opening it up it was clear that the issue was with the wear of the plastic guides on the cross member. This was a terrible design flaw, but I assume that a scissor mechanism wouldn't fit inside the VX's door due to the curvature.
Anyways, after some lazy bit of searching, I came across this Isuzu Rodeo regulator from 94-97 (and honda passport). Does that cross member look familiar?
VX regulator:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...-regulator.jpg
Rodeo Regulator:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...-regulator.JPG
My dad has 2001 trooper and we bought a new rear door regulator for it. when it came it looked almost identical to the V. So based only on the pictures posted here and the pictures on ebay I think you could drill out the spot welds on the mount brackets on the old reg and rivet them on the trooper reg and you would be good to go. THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED. just an idea.
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTk3WDE2MD...S2VPz/$_57.JPG
So when I installed my new regulator I played with it a bit to see what the issues might be.
I noticed that when I operated the window with the top bolts removed that it worked great and that the support moved away from the door frame as the window neared the top of the run. When it would go down the support moved back toward the frame as intended. This is likely what has allowed the use of more washers to be a good fix.
I had a thought...what if you used a longer bolt at the top. The kind that has a shaft and then threads. This would allow the support to slide in and out. You could use a heavy spring between the outer door side of the regulator attachment point and the end of the bolt to hold it against the door frame but one that would allow some outward movement as the window raised and the regulator frame move outward. You might accomplish the same allowance for travel by using this type of set up between the regulator and the SBC bracket.
I'm not an engineer but it seems like from the behavior that I observed in the components that this might help the issue a great deal.
Anyone try this or have any thoughts on my observations?