I talked to Welder Guy earlier this week. He was Hoggin with freinds last week & I'm headed to Misssisssipppi next week. It'll probably be sometime close to the 23rd before we get to fit check the next (hopefully final) iteration.
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I talked to Welder Guy earlier this week. He was Hoggin with freinds last week & I'm headed to Misssisssipppi next week. It'll probably be sometime close to the 23rd before we get to fit check the next (hopefully final) iteration.
Well, I stopped by Welder Guy's shop yesterday for a fit check with the 1.5 inch tube design & here's what happened:
Arrived at 1430 & shut off VX.
Went in shop to move stuff around so we could pull in the VX.
Tried to start the VX at about 1440 ... no juice from the Optima Yellow Top.
Hooked up a battery charger & left it for about 30 minutes.
Still no juice (even with the charger set to jump setting).
Made run to AutoZone for new battery - Optima was only putting out 2 Amps.
Got the new battery in at about 1615 (added Lucas to power steering res since it was below min).
VX started right up but too late to start removing rear cladding. Brought the hitch pieces home with me to fit check & mark up for final assembly.
I'll keep you posted.
Hey Tom, is welder guy interested selling the scrapped hitch? I know someone who might be interested :naughty:
My frame is now under the rear bumper slightly so i would be interested in buying the old hitch (for a right price) if it fits okay without the cladding. Just a thought. I really like the design you guys have used because it will protect my gas tank in case of collision.
I'm not sure if he kept the scrap pieces or not (still hafta make the end plates though). I'll ask.
Sounds good, either way i'll be interested in one.
I fit checked the latest parts from Welder Guy on the hitch. It looks like it'll work. Now I just hafta get the parts back to him for finall assembly. He wants to add a gussett for strength since we went to 1/5" thick wall tubing. I'll keep you posted.
Tom
Any news on the hich? I'm finally doing some work on my VX and would like to have a hitch to install while it's apart.
:bump: for updates!
Hitch is at house ... waiting for me to get home from AZ for fit check. Hope to have update for you soon.
Looking forward to the fit check. I'll probably buy one as soon as you confirm they're ready.
Thanks for the bump and update on this... looking forward to next one and fruition.
Another speed bump in the hitch design.
While doing the final fit check, I broke the hitch. Welder Guy just had it tack welded in place & I broke off one of the end plates. He's fixing it now & I hope to do the final fit check this Friday.
Will keep you posted.
Hows it Lookin Tom?
He's got it ready for me to pick up on friday. Still just tack welded because it needs the final fit check. I'll have to mess with the gusset he added for strength as well. I'm sure it'll be hitting the cladding.
Hopefully the next rendition will be final.
Sorry it's taking so long but Welder Guy has been swamped & his shop is an hour away from me (usta work at the same place though ... much easier then).
I'll take a before & after pic of that gusset so you can see the tight tolerance Dub & I are talking about.
I've only dropped it twice so far ... & haven't broken it yet:)
Tom - Probably should have mentioned this well before now, but do you think welder guy could pre-drill holes for a j-pin? We had a hitch installed on our Axiom and it came pre-drilled for one of these:
http://www.realtruck.com/images/prod...74_j-pin_a.jpg
We took our hitch-mounted cargo box (which is infamous for rattling if you don't tighten it somehow) to Wisconsin and it was rock solid with this thing.
Here's a better explanation from eTrailer.com:
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/gr...3/63201_bb.jpgQuote:
Draw-Tite's exclusive J-Pin ready receiver design allows for the most confident and secure hookup in today's towing market by compressing the hitch mounted accessory against the inner side wall of the hitch receiver tube. Once attached, the hitch and towing components seem virtually welded together.
Draw-Tite's J-Pin quickly and confidently secures ball mounts and other hitch mounted accessories, eliminating the sway and rattle caused by necessary part clearance issues.
Ash,
It shouldn't be a problem. Can you get me a C/L to C/L between the two holes?
The only issue that I can see is that we are trying to keep the receiver as low profile as possible. The hole for the J-Hook may encroach on the end collar. Will keep you posted.
Tom
Would you only put ONE (1) new hole, on one side, or two (2), for the J-pin? Obviously one hole only allows pin to be installed in one direction. Would that ever be an issue?
When I went thru my mounting hell on the rear skid, I had to have my shop drill a 2nd hole in the receiver closer to the collar to be able to fit a locking pin with my skid. If WelderGuy places hole exactly as he did mine, there's room for another without hitting the collar.
I'm not really sure if the 2nd hole compromises the integrity of the hitch, but my guy felt there was still enough metal between the collar and 2nd hole to safely use the hitch, although I told him I'd NEVER be towing a trailer of any kind. Mr. Engineer Tom, what do you think?
~There's 28mm from the aft side of the original hole, to the beginning of the collar.
~I centered a 2nd hole (5/8" = 17mm) within that 28mm space, it left 5.5mm on each side.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/7573/dsc6658c.jpg
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/7641/dsc6659v.jpg
OOORRRRR ...
Now I'm just thinkin outside the box right now so bear with me ...
I focus on getting the dang thing to fit & worry about all yer minutiae stuff later:)
Just kidding.
I'm kinda leaning towards just drill & tap a hole through the collar (on the under side) for a large set screw. Benefits: hidden (no extra holes), no compromise of strength, gives you your locking option for rattling hitches. Issues: Ya gotta carry an allen wrench with you to remove the hitch.
BTW, Welder Guy has already located the hole for the pin 1/2 inch farther outboard for youse people who really can't stand the idea of me getting any sleep so put on stoopid fiberglass bling stuff that gets in the way of using the hitch for what it's intended for.:)
This is what I had done on my Tone hitch, but it didn't work as well as the J-pin. I think it may have had to do with the fact that with a bottom-mounted bolt you're trying to squeeze the accessory against the roof of the hitch, which is fighting against gravity, especially when your accessory is fully loaded. And I can tell you from experience it's much easier to tighten a bolt that goes in from the side (without the force of gravity pushing against you) than from underneath. Plus you don't have to get dirty. ;)
So why does a second hole for the J-pin compromise strength more than a second hole for a bolt? Is it because they're on different walls?
P.S. If it's a big headache I can just drill the second hole after I buy it. I guess the important thing is to make sure the first hole is placed as to leave enough room for the second hole to be drilled.
mine had 28mm from the back of the hole to the collar....so if WelderGuy moved it more aft 1/2" for use goofballs....that probably means it would be really really tight to get another hole and still have some metal integrity....???
It's more of an issue with the second hole being in line with the primary (pin) hole in the direction of the most significant force (draw weight). As long as there is at least 2x the wall thickness of the tube between the two holes, it should be fine.
You're taking me entirely too seriously ... but what's next, duzzit hafta be powder coated an exact match to foxfire???
I have no response to that.
WooHoo!!!
Cladding now fits over the hitch. Need to drop it off to Welder Guy this week to finish her up (full welds, clean up, & paint).
Will keep you posted & add some pix next week (middle of week - gotsa run to Vermont on Monday for work).
No J pin hole yet, but we'll add that.
Prolly gonna mount the safety chain loops tucked under - harder to get to but cleaner look ... hope that's OK with everyone.
I'll try to get him to extend the mounting brackets down so that you can add a shakle on both sides if you wish. Feedback on hole for shakle???
Woohoo! Can't wait. If you're talking about a shackle (like d-link?) on each extreme end of the bracket for recovery, I personally think it's a GREAT idea... adds versatility, and you could always remove the shackle/link if you want. Thanks for the update Tom!
Tom, are you talking about adding clevis shackle mounts like the ones pictured below?
http://www.comp4x4.com/Images/Compet...levis%2001.jpg
Yah, dat's what I'm talkin 'bout.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...user/3558/sl/v
The mount for the clevis shackle is actually part of the bracket for the rear bumper under the cladding. 80% of that bumper is going away (including that mount). I'm not sure if there is any benefit on adding it to the drivers side since the tail pipe will be in the way for using it but I'm sure some would like the one on the passenger side.
As promised, here are a few pix of the hitch before it goes back to Welder Guy tomorrow.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../IMG_11061.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1107.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1108.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1109.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1110.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1111.JPG
:thumbup:
When you see welder guy tomorrow, can you please get a final price? I think i read $250 somewhere but wasn't sure if that still stands.
Also, not sure if he's ready for orders but you can let him know Jon in CO thinks his design looks REAL good. ;)
So whats going on with this build? Ill definatly be getting one of these when its complete
Got a call from Welder Guy last night. He has 2 hitches tack welded together for me to fit check before he does full weld/finish/paint. Hope to pick them up tomorrow. If they both work out, he'll be able to put together a jig to start cranking them out. Will keep you posted.
Tom
Silly question, what is going the pull weight on it? what size is the square tubing 1/8 or 1/4?