Yarp, looks great! Thats quite an improvement.
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Yarp, looks great! Thats quite an improvement.
You need to edit your post and press enter after each picture. That way they stack vertically vs horizontally.
Looks amazing. I am definitely gonna do it.
How did you like that sprayer thing?...much overspray?
and what did you do about your mirrors? I too have mirror covers (Carbon Fiber)
I really liked how the Preval Sprayer worked overall. It gave the tint a nice, "smooth" appearance compared to wiping it on with a terry cloth on the first coat. I would suggest doing the first coat as I did and using the sprayer for the second as you don't want to have to put a lot on with the sprayer as to prevent runs of the dye.
As far as overspray, yes, there is some. You can see in the pics. that I used 2" painters tape around all of the areas I was going to spray. There was still overspray above the tape, but just use Mineral Spirits and it comes right off. I would still use the tape so that you do not have to get close to the cladding with Mineral Spirits when cleaning up, or you could just use plastic above the tape. I think it was quicker just to clean up afterwards with mineral spirits.
Didn't do anything with the mirrors yet.... I'm thinking about painting them body color (at least where the chrome mirror covers are not), but not sure yet.
P.S. I used two entire bottles for the cladding and half moon for two coats.... Just an FYI for anyone looking for usage.
I am about to place an order for some cladding juice.....
A few questions before I click "buy"...
1. will 2 bottles get the job done?
2. Should I apply the first coat with terry cloth or foam brush?
3. How long should I let the first coat dry, before I apply a second coat with preval sprayer?
Jamas,
Here's my 2 cents to your questions:
1. Two bottles got the job done for me with a little left over and my cladding was in BAD shape. You actually need to "cut" the dye when using the sprayer with Mineral Spirits, so the 2nd coat goes a lot further than the 1st that is applied by the terry cloth.
2. I used those round terry cloth wax pads that you can find at Wal_mart or any automotive store. I applied liberally for my 1st coat covering small areas at a time before re-applying the dye to the pad.
3. I let mine dry overnight, but I'm sure you can do it sooner.... There is timing in the included instructions with the dye.
Hope this helps...
CP
I used a crappy harbor freight brush. As for the time, by the time I was done with the first coat....oh wait, it only took one coat:) One bottle did the whole truck, now I have a full bottle sitting in my garage....just in case.
Definitely do small sections at a time. And try to do the entire door panels in one full stroke, from edge to edge, it will look better that way...but this may be irrelevant since you're going to be spraying a 2nd coat.
Good luck...take lots of pics!! :wave:
Have either of you (CP or Sue) tried to use this stuff on roof racks, spoilers, door handles, etc?
From their site....
For the Black dye a 2 mineral spirits to 1 dye ratio is about right but check your manual for its own ratio needs.
The Grey dye is thicker and is approximately a 3:1 ratio. Watch the sprayer for spitting.
Just checked my notes (yes, I'm anal retentive) when I got home.... Used 2-1 ratio MS - Dye.
Used on Door Handles only as they are the same plastic as the cladding... I did not use on the roof rack, spoiler or hood insert as I was not sold that this would do the trick... Painting my hood insert and may paint my mirrors body color.... Not sure what I'm going to do with the rack & spoiler at this point
I did door handles, very lightly and yes, it did act like it was cladding. I also skipped doing the mirrors, rails, spoiler or insert as I didn't think it would absorb the same, since it seems to be s shiny, smooth, denser "plastic".
Did you buy gray or just black? Are you mixing color? just curious.... and yes the gray is thicker, so the mfg told me to add the black TO the gray when I mixed it.
Ditto what the others have said. Terrycloth covered foam pads for first coat, waited about an hour to dry, followed by preval sprayer diluted 2:1 with mineral spirits. Used approx 1.5 bottles of all black. Door handles OK, pretty much anything else NOT OK as the stuff wont penetrate correctly.
As an aside, I did test the the half moon area with some Refinish Restorer afterward and advise against it. The solvents in RR will lift the dye and cause streaking, which was easily fixed with more Showroom New dye.
Showroom new eliminates the need for any kind of armorall type product. It makes the plastic and not shiny. Good stuff. Mud has no effect on it. Still nice and black.
Correct, I used SN on the half moon, came out beautiful, no streaks at all cuz it's a small area and you can apply it easily in continuous strokes. ....and just to muddy it up a bit..I left the R/R on my half moon and didn't blast it off with the pressure washer...and the SN went on and soaked in apparently just fine.
DId you start on it yesterday?
(Those white streaks at the top of the moon are just in the picture, think it was snow.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3391.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3160.JPG
Gotta believe that if you don't treat it with a detailing product at least occasionally you'll need to do this again eventually though. But since it sounds like application is about the same as 2-3 coats of B2B / Armor All / TS-1 maybe preventative maintenance isn't worth it.
I suppose. But how many years does it take to fade the new dye back to a gray color again? I guess we will find out. I can tell you that getting it muddy and pressure washing it had no effect on the color.
I never putting anything else on it again!! SN or nothing.
Does it have a UV protectant? Did the original cladding have a UV inhibitor? I'd think sun would be far more damaging over time than mud or water.
Well I just made my "attempt" at applying this....
story preview.....I'm streaky...and so is the VX's cladding :):)
First mistake: picking the hottest, most humid day. ( I did work in the shade though)
I took the day off work to do this, so I didnt want to wait. I applied first coat with terry cloth disc applicator thingy...definitely needed a second coat. Waited the suggested (on the bottle) 20 minutes max dry time before applying second coat. I now know I should have waited longer.....like a couple hours. Applying the second coat messed with the first (I think). Then I went do use the preval sprayer. HOly crap that messed me up. Mixed the ratio perfect...began to spray and the sprayer was messed up...started spraying out the bottom. Got dye on me and paint thinner on the cladding (similar issue to Grif's RR issues and resolved just as easily). I quickly gave up on the sprayer (half a bottle down the drain) then went to try and repair everything with another coat with the terry cloth applicator. That messed it up more. I waited for it to dry for an hour and tried to apply the little I had left which was probably not enough. SOOOOO sooo frustrating. I got it look "ok" from about 10 feet away.
My plan of attack to fix it is to buy 2 more bottles and apply much more liberally with the roller and maybe foam brush for the crevices.
Hopefuly the next coat with cover the streaks.
The color looks TONS better and it fixed the gas stain on the cladding and the buff job that a PO did. but the streaks are unacceptable in my book. I have to fix it. I can't sleep. Damn VX addiction.:)
oh no Jon! You're so precise and meticulous.....so sorry to hear this. :( I think it can still be fixed to your level of acceptable by spraying. Maybe you should order a new Preval sprayer from them, it wasn't too much money.
it made it start to look kinda "thicker" like it was becoming a coating. I know the sprayer is diluted so I believe a lesser amount of product is being applied, so maybe spraying a 3rd and even 4th coat would be fine.
When doing coating #1, I got so frustrated and stretched the product. I learned clearly NOT to try to stretch it, so on subsequent coats, I think I went pretty heavy, with this past problem in mind. Soooo....my 4th coat may well have caused it to reach a saturation point, for lack of a better term, and that's why it started looking a little thick. When I recognized that, I backed off some. My gauge was if I could still see the native texture of the cladding.
If I had been doing the SAME COLOR mixture as 1,2,3...I would have STOPPED as soon as I perceived it was looking kinda thick...but being the rocket scientist I am, I had wanted it darker, so coating #4 had to be completed or it would be a 2-tone.....
I just re-read this entire thread, and I think the sprayer is the way to go for you. Grif and Child's Play both did it with the sprayer, so I'm sure they can give you some tips.
The other pointer I want to make....it really does change after 6-8 hrs, and overnight....I don't care what the label says about drying time.....so if you just did it today....at least wait until tomorrow to see how it looks, so you can decide if spraying is the way to go.
Come on, remember these pics...I thought I was going to have a heart attack when I saw these streaks.....but they dried up and blended....and this was when I was doing vertical strokes with the roller, vs. horizontal with the sponge cloth.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2977.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2985.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../DSCF33891.JPG
Grif and Child's Play-
you guys have any tips on using the preval sprayer? I am having difficulty.
I did it yesterday morning. I really think the dry time is a big factor in what got me. I am hoping that if I put a good coat on it and "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!!!!" then it will look better. Even with the roller or foam brush.
I let it dry to their spec and rubbed it with a dry terry cloth and black came off.
I will probably try the preval sprayer again in a small area to see if that helps. I am taking back the one and getting another one tomorrow.
One other point after I re-read your post....the roller spews the dye out the edges after it's saturated and you can NOT HELP BUT GET STREAKS....since it spews it out in a line on both sides of the roller....you have to address that or those "thicker streaks" will remain....... So....since you're already at coating 1.5 ish...I would NOT use the roller....the terry sponge thing did far, far better.
what about the sponge brush?...
I feel like when I put the stuff on the terry cloth applicator, after I made the top pass, and came back with the next row, it rubbed the top pass and created a streak....
if that makes sense....
I need practice cladding