Yes it will work for other Isuzus...and am also making them for many other make/models vehicals as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
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Yes it will work for other Isuzus...and am also making them for many other make/models vehicals as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Pulling teeth using rockcrawler gears might be less painful than this wait......:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by BigMeatVX
Said the man who's been dangling the "supercharger carrot" since 5-09...:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbomaz
JK Rob, I know how it goes with alpine...:rolleyesg
LOL I was expecting SOMEONE to point that out! :yesb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Here is a few pics of what the kit looks like and consist of...Also, you can see the side-to-side movement with the SECUREMENT PIN REMOVED.
Note....the parts are the green ones ONLY...the crossmember is shown to give a reference point....
See them for sale over in the FOR SALE section....
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...x_movement.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...3_20_12_00.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...3_20_12_40.jpg
WTF...... how in the hell does that thing work.....
alan, your mind is crazy and amazing at the same time...
wow that looks awesome!!!!! I have to try this :)
;eeky;NOT IN THE FOR SALE SECTION!!!!!!
On a side note, you have to remove torsion bars to feed them through the holes, will those holes fit the HD torsion bars? Do you have to disconnect the drive shaft to fit it in there, where does the top plate mount? I need more info!!!!! You're killin me smalls.
+1 - Come on man, can't wait to see the price!Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
This amazing mod can be yours... if the price is right. (Sorry Bob Barker :))
Hmmm. I'm guessing that yoke-shaped part in the middle slides left and right with differential flex...if that pin is removed. Otherwise with the pin in place the whole system is locked in place and the torsion bars are anchored as per normal for road use. Very interesting. I would love to try it.
[Edit] Duh, the first pic shows the pin out and the yoke part off center...can't quite make out how the torsion bar mounts swivel to accommodate this movement, but they obviously are doing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Link to KIT
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...958#post205958
No, you don't have to completely remove the torsion bars, (but it does make it easier) they just need to be loosened up...
Unless your "Adjustment Keys" are different than the OEM (torsion bar spline count/size), they should work fine with HD bars...
No, you DO NOT have to remove or disconnect the driveshaft to install.
In the pics, the green parts are the parts in the Kit...it is mounted on a crossmember in some of the pics to show how it is positioned in the vehical.
Install takes between 1-3 hrs depending on your abilities, tools, and how dirty/rusty your VX underside is....:o
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...t_Ifs_Flex.jpg
I didn't want to add to the sell thread, do you have install instructions. I was looking at the parts, and thought that the torsion bars had to sleeve through the big holes.
Do you have to drill any holes? (I don't mind, but that is a big deal for some folks)
Does this affect ground clearance?
That contraption looks pretty heavy duty, sweet! Look for my order on the 1st, still moping from spending 2K on the F250 rear end rebuild, but this kit goes higher up on the list of wants...even higher than my gooseneck trailer:) Good job man!!
I am working on making up some instructions with detailed pics...should be availble in a few days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
The torsion bars are splined on the ends, so yes they do slide into the big holes, unless someone has changed the keys to non-OEM size, the kit will fit.
NO DRILLING REQUIRED!!!!
Does not affect ground clearance, as all the parts in the kit are positioned ABOVE the crossmember.
Thanks for being patient, this has been quite a project!:bgwb:
Think there will be any rub/clearance issues with Kilby skid plates?
Looks good! My questions:
1) What is the total weight of the parts?
2) What type of metal are these made from?
3) What type of finish? (painted or powdercoated)
4) Can you buy extra keys in the event of misplacement?
Not steal his thunder, but the key looks to be a hitch pin style key. Probably can be had at any RV store or pending the diameter, even a regular old auto parts store.Quote:
Originally Posted by eternal21
Paint is a good question, although I kind of like the green:)
Another question, in light of the brake line thread I just started, are the factory brake lines long enough to support the extra flex on the front end? I ordered my lines +2" just in case. I know on my Expedition I did a 2 " lift, and I was pushing it with the brake lines. I would equate the allowing of the front to drop out to be the same as a lift.
1 35 Lbs...Quote:
Originally Posted by eternal21
2 3/4" thick mild steel, grade 8 bolts ,nuts and threads...lightweight Titaininum is avail. for extra $$$$:bgwb:
3 enamel finish...powdercoating is availble for extra $$
4 The "SECURMENT PIN" is a common part (1/2" hitch pin) and is readily avail. locally...(The "KEY" is a splined part, that the Torsion bar slides into and is used for ride height adjustment...)
While not required, longer brake lines sound like a great idea...Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
The SUPER FLEXY IFS KIT does not necessarliy put more strain on the brake lines, as your overall drop travel will not change. (both front tires at full droop) HOWEVER, it does allow one tire to be at FULL COMPRESSION while the other tire is at FULL DROOP, AND more importantly while the tires are in these extreem positions, the weight is ballanced between the two tires MUCH MORE evenly, and the vehical remains much more level, while increasing traction....Typical OEM syle IFS does not allow this as much.
Also, as one front tire climes an obstical and compresses that side of the suspension, the KIT transfers force to the other front tire, pushing it downward...
This does a few things...First, the tire climing the obstical has its spring rate decreased, allowing it to stuff farther and easier and sooner up into the wheelweell untill it reaches maximum compression (bump stop)... at the same time, the tire on the opposite side has its spring rate increased, pushing it down into the terrain...
For example, With this Kit, You can drop one front tire into a 4" deep rut while the other front tire is sitting on a 4" tall rock, and maintain EQUAL tire preasure on both fronts, and maintain a more level vehical as well.
Makes sense...it doesn't increase suspension travel, but does allow the available travel to be fully utilized, without fighting against the torsion bars.
I still don't see how the sway bar is taken out of the equation though, seems to me it will still be fighting against L/R differential suspension movement.
The Kit should fit finr with the Kilby skid plate...All the parts are positioned ABOVE the crossmember.:yesgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
I'm all in for more articulation but I don't think it would be wise with my offset. Think I'd better pass on this one.
Hope Santa is nice this year!:bwgy:
dumb ? but will that work with the tracks i'm thinking about ordering
website...... http://www.americantracktruck.com/in...page=sno-truck
Did you gut the inside of the fender and trim the cladding?
Any thoughts on a dash controlled super flexy IFS?
It should work with those...Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCvxOFFROAD
YES!!! Hopefully we will see this produced by a large automaker in the future...Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyDude
.Remember when just a few years back, a few folks were cutting the front swaybar on jeeps and welding on splines and a coupler, contolled with a cable...badda-bing NOW JEEP OFFERS THIS FROM THE FACTORY ON AT LEAST TWO MODELS....push-button swaybar disconnect....:smilegray
Yep, long ago I tore out all the inner plastic fenders...and smacked all the high points down with a BIG sledge hammer...opened it up....beat the firewall back about 1"Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Trimmed the cladding 1" around the radius as well
Interesting! I met the guy who invented the Revolver shackles and I figured he had made a bunch of money off of the patent sell to Teraflex. When I asked him about it he said you really don't get that much money from it. What is your stance? Have you floated the idea around to a bunch of places, come up with some sort of cost per unit sell or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMeatVX
I dont expect to get rich off these....if thats what your askin:p
Who knows what the future holds, though....
I was referring to a dash-mounted super flexy IFS controller for the VX, not looking to buy a 2014 Jeep. I've got to think something could be substituted for the removable pin?
Those vids are awesome!
I think the thing you're looking for in that case is a solenoid. You could also use a cable or push rod to make it lever actuated. An air or hydraulic cylinder would also work but require a little more work. I'd stick with the solenoid. You would probably have to taper the pin too so it would engage smoothly. How hard is it to get out and pull a pin though? Seems like for as much as you'd use this, you could pull a pin out 50 times and it would take just as long as installing a system like that once, not to mention cost, complexity, and reliability.Quote:
I was referring to a dash-mounted super flexy IFS controller for the VX, not looking to buy a 2014 Jeep. I've got to think something could be substituted for the removable pin?
I thought about a solenoid, but I didn't know if you had to move that yolk back and forth in order to get the pin in.
I have an idea, go to Home Depot, yell "Uno", put a harness under the VX, and voila, knock once to engage, knock twice to disengage.Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyDude
Good idea, but might have clearance issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Unless you have skid plates. Obviously I've never installed this kit on my VX, but I would think it would be difficult to pull (and probably even harder to replace) the pin without removing the plate. If that's the only way to do it, then it kind of defeats the point of an easy to use pin.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascinder