But isn't that moving the weight away from the rear cross-member by another inch or more? Wouldn't that increase the lean effect / decrease the maximum weight capacity of a hitch-mounted cargo box?
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For Junky... :) Fully installed with bent hitch pin. Sorry for the quality, my cell phone lens was blurry.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...10419-1108.jpg
wonder if you could persuade this thing in place..... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ventura-U-...ndingMethod=rr
have you mentioned your backup sensors in a thread....
How long do you think that would take, i.e. turnaround Tom? He could also modify that edge (that Dub tried to grind down when installing it for me), so the cladding tucks back down tight.
We'd use Dave's FJ or my GX470. 5000 lb, 6500 lb rated respectively.
Dang I was hoping the pin didn't affect safety at all....
I've been leaning toward that too. Can could anybody drill new holes on the hitch tube while it's STILL on the truck?
Hmmm.....I like that idea Dan.
~To solve that problem Tom, wouldn't a barrel connector (internally threaded connector like Eric said) work if I could get the other bolt to thread into it?
~Outside tube is 2 3/4", probably use 1 1/4" long bolts on each side, plus the connector.???
the hitch pin supplies support in a horizontal plane for towing and in the case of the super bumper, an accident.
in the case of tongue weight or a cargo carrier, the hitch pin would act as a fulcrum, the load is taken by the bottom of the front of the receiver and the top of the rear of the receiver. Now that I'm thinking about it though, having two pins would eliminate that rotational movement, and put all of the weight on the two pins, similar to how the carrier contacts the receiver.
putting two pins might cause issues with the superbumper though, its has a slot instead of a hole, so two hitch pins would reduce the length of travel/absorption it has
I can see how the two pins stop the vertical rotation, but it seems like you're still putting more weight farther away from the fulcrum. Kind of like wheel spacers which everyone seems to think are bad for the same reason - pushing weight farther away from the axle (or whatever you want to say).
I think it would depend on how it was done, if you use both pins (make a new hole in your cargo carrier) the weight doesnt move any further from the frame which is the concern. It would put more stress on the hitch itself, but thats never been an issue to my knowledge, the weight is transferred to the frame in the same manner
if you re-use the existing hole in the cargo carrier and just use 1 pin, you will definitely increase the distance from the frame and increase the twisting effect.
the reason i have a problem with wheel spacers is not the stress on the steering/suspension components, its the stress on the wheel studs. a spacer which lets the studs pass through creates two shear points on the studs, and moves the weight farther down the studs. a wheel spacer that bolts to the hub and has its own studs reduces this and is less harmful to the vehicle. but as far as wheels with low offset vs wheel spacers, the stress on the suspension and steering is the same
[QUOTE=VX KAT;226827]How long do you think that would take, i.e. turnaround Tom? He could also modify that edge (that Dub tried to grind down when installing it for me), so the cladding tucks back down tight.
Probably not long ... he's currently underemployed (trying to get his shop to be his sole income). I'll give him a call.
I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...:_thinking
If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...:yesgray:
A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...:smilewink
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC04323.JPG