sorry... was there an attachment or some other link that I was suppose to take? I still don't understand the slotting.
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sorry... was there an attachment or some other link that I was suppose to take? I still don't understand the slotting.
Click on my user name to look at the pictures in my gallery. Even more discriptions of the pictures are in the treads. You can look at all treads about windows that I have posted the same way, when you click on a users name you get a pop-up menu. Very handy.Quote:
Originally Posted by disasterlady
thanks again... you can tell I am new to the site!
I bought some Sticky Putty off HSN.COM and it seems to bond to just about anything. It bonds to glass. brick, just about anything. I have the classic drivers door window hangups that most of us have. I will attempt to pull the door panel this weekend and try it. I will let the group know how successful or not this goes.
So - my newly acquired '99 VX has 'widows woe'. I was told so by seller, so we just discounted some from his price tag, and I have not risked even opening neither of windows so far. ;)
I carefully went through all the thread, yet I have couple of Qs unclear still:
1. where do you apply those washers in order to align the lifting mechanism right below the glass? Any explanatory pics anybody? :rolleyes:
2. Have I understood correctly, that moving glass-holding tabs forward ~5mm (~0.2 inches) so that they push glass firmly in the back slider TOGETHER with applying washers mentioned in (1) SHOULD fix the problem once and for good?
Advance thanx on clarifications! :p
P.S.
Suggestion for tabs creation and fixing: may be one can use stiff rubber used usually in engine pillows or axle stoppers (don't know right eng term for them; I mean bumpers below car to stop shocks and springs being driven too deep into wheel arch. I have four of such on my Discovery and Defender, have not looked beneath VX yet... ;) ), and for gluing use glass-fixing adhesive used by professional guys replacing windows on contemporary cars? Just thinking out loud... :)
I made my own tabs from plastic and used GOOP adhesive to put everything together. My drivers' window with the homemade brackets is still working perfectly and I use it all the time. It was cheap, but not trivial to make the tabs. The plastic I used is more flexible than the stock pieces, so even if the door does bind the window, they won't break off again. I also took the opportunity to push the window into the back channnel properly.
http://vehicross.info/forums/showpos...4&postcount=27
http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=9013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rednex
Answer #1
The amount of washers depends on how far your inner door panel has been pulled in, it should be a different amount for every problem.
You replace the stock bolts (four) with longer metric bolts.
lower the window and remove the two bottom stock bolts.that hold the lift arm mechanism.
place as many washers between the bolt holes as needed to place the lift arm under the glass.
unbolting the glass is a good way of checking if the arm is under the glass, it should hold it up without bolts.
after counting the washers, tape them together like a roll of pennies, to make two spacers. re-bolt the bottom of the lift arm mechanism with the longer bolts.
Raise the window near the top, and repete all these step with the upper two bolts.
There are pictures in my gallery.
If you have it right you should be able to raise and lower your window unbolted from the glass.
Answer #2
Lower the window again. unbolt the window glass tabs from the lifting arm.
Push the glass as far as you can into the rear window guide.
Look at the window tab and lift arm bolt holes.
if they do not line up, you need to:
a) move / replace the window tabs and re-glue them.
b) slot the holes in the lift arm. (if it is close)
c) slot the lift mechanism holes. (the same four that now have spacers)
Again there are pictures in my gallery.
If you have it right you should be able to raise and lower your window unbolted from the glass.
I just finished this repair after the brass insert ripped loose from the nylon window bolt. forcing another alignment to releave the binding. After all privious fixes the window had a tendency to tilt foward when raising as it came into the non adjustable mirror( about 4" from the top) part of the front guide that is widened and pushed foward in the Common "fix". the REAL issue is the window needs to move back into the rear guide. Each door is probibly a little different and where they glued the tabs on the window would make a lot of change in the adjustment also.
The discriptions are in the gallary, ALL pictures are of the DRIVER side only.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../P10100011.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/P1010002.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/P1010003.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/P1010004.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../P10100052.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...s/P1010006.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../P10100071.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../P10100082.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../P10100092.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../P10100101.JPG
That's the kind of answer I didn't even dare to dream about! :) Just don't remove the pics - I'll get hands-on on my VX next week. A well earned 2 vacation weeks right before xmas holidays - the best time to shape up all three babies... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldoggie
Thanx a ton, Bulldoggie!
If tabs are broken.
What is overall best adhesive to use?
Who has corrected without a second fix needed and what method did you use?
Are the GM tabs the way to go with added adhesive?
Are GM clips to stiff like OEM and break? Are making out of other plastic material superior?
Is spacing necessary?
Is there a link with step by step instructions to fix and items neede for us intimdated shade tree mechanics????
If tabs are not brken adn window tilts forward during use what is best approach to fix?
puff puff, (blowing the dust off this thread!!)
well, ive been having some problems with the window, with the weather changing. ive done all the mods months ago, and have had no problems. but when the weather warmed up last week, the epoxy i put in the tabs came loose from the glass, and have been wrestling with the window for about a week, you know, slowing the back end down to keep the window in track, etc....
well, today, as a storm front was comming in, the window decided to go out of the front track, break my clip in front, cut the rubber some more.....ugh,
so i FINALLY got the window back in the track, and rolled up. came home, looked up the window tab GM part#22689012 off of this thread, gave my dealer a call, and what do you know, they had three of em. so i bought one, and i must say, they work perfectly.
they might be just the teensiest bit higher than the stock, but i was putting it in the front, so it just added to the tilt, which is good. the only mod i made was to clip off some very small tabs on each side,(youll see what im talking about if you get one) but other than that, they work very well. just wanted to add my testamony to a great find!!!
oh, i also used jb weld to "glue" them to the window.
david