That link in post #18 goes over what fuel can do to the charcoal canister. Not a good thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Numba1goalie
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That link in post #18 goes over what fuel can do to the charcoal canister. Not a good thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Numba1goalie
http://www.leeric.lsu.edu/bgbb/7/ece.../a/illus-c.gif
sorry to be dumb but how do i check the intake gaskets?? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by psychos2
Take that engine cover off the top and look to see if there is any black film coming from around the seems of the intake manifold.
And, yes I have locking hubs on the front of mine, however I hardly ever unlock them making it 2wd.
Joe, is there a way to check the canister for functionality/damage to see if it needs replacing?
All that was very helpful. thank you.
I've attached an Acrobat file of some various info regarding excessive fuel consumption from the service manual. Y'all should find it interesting, especially the component locator table.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruflyf
I posted a couple of months ago that my mileage dropped from 16.5 to 13.5 immediately after I had my 30,000 service at Sierra. Today I took the VX in for them to check things like the 02 sensor.
Here's what found:''Diag fuel ratio in specs, 025 sensor in specs...no problem found - performed scan tool diag -- found no DTCS -- all fuel trims in spec -- fuel ratio is right on -- 02 sensors working correctly"
Looks pretty thorough to me. No problems identified.
Am I correct in assuming that if some of the things mentioned above -- pinched lines, etc. -- were the cause this would have showed up in the testing?
So other than brake drag or flat tires, what else could it be?
Question: if the brakes were dragging enough to reduce my mileage that much would I not notice excessive heat and some kind of burning smell?
Update: When i first started this thread I was fresh with a new tank of gas and apparently the VX heard my growling and got 355 miles to the tank.
Now with a new fill up, I'm at half tank and only have 134 mile sont he odemeter. Here we go again I guess.
I am ordering a new intake manifold gasket soon along with some other things.
And here I go again - Goalie, before you go ordering parts, please - finish the mileage experiment. Don't do any math with the fuel gauge - it's only accurate to maybe +/- a quarter of a tank of gas, and you even said in a previous post that itt was showing only an eighth of a tank left, but only 11 gallons went in.
If you don't have the patience to wait until you finish this tank of gas, then go ahead and fill up now just like you did the last time when you reset the trip odometer and DO THE MATH... divide the number of miles showing on your odo by the number of gallons you just put in your tank, and that will tell you your true mileage. By the numbers you yourself posted before, you are getting over 19 mpg! (210 miles on 11 gallons of gas... 210/11 = 19.09).
Make sure you have a problem before you try to fix it. Problems that aren't really there have an annoying way of not responding to fixes.
Good luck!
You know, have you changed your driving style/ route/ schedule lately? Bad traffic, lots of starts and stops, even aggressive driving can affect your mileage.
I noticed when I worked late for a week that I got better mileage. (The drive home had almost no traffic).
Nate
^^^^ Heed what VehiGAZ is saying, good advice! ^^^^
I notice real bad fuel economy mostly on the highways over 70 mph. which is about 2800-3000 rpms.
I am still following your advice though, I am just giving it a few tanks to get the average number. I feel like im in a Math class again. lol.
I installed my new Fuel pressure reg yesterday. Pathetic how small that thing is. My idle is more regular now instead of so high and it seems to start easier.
Hopefully my mileage will gain from the new one.
A Thousand Pardons if this is a stupid question, but wouldn't driving with the Power button activated affect mileage? The location of the button is such that it could accidentally (or purposefully) be depressed by a passenger without the driver's knowledge.
I always drive with the power button on. I get 18 mpg.Quote:
Originally Posted by WyldWeasel
Most Isuzu owners report that the POWER setting usually gives the best overall economy, and this is across the Trooper/Rodeo/Amigo/VehiCROSS line. Additionally, there is an illuminated indicator on the instrument cluster to let you know when the buttons are set to anything other than NORMAL. In a nutshell, the different modes adjust the shift points and torque-converter lock-up profile to suit your driving style or conditions.Quote:
Originally Posted by WyldWeasel
I just put 600 plus miles on the VX this past weekend with a trip to Twenty-Nine Palms and through Joshua Tree National Park and around the Salton Sea.
My mileage went from 13.5 to an average of 20 mpg -- much of it with the air conditioner on.
What did I do differently? I increased the tire pressure from 32 to 34 psi. Original wheels and tires. Amazing.
Do what I do... I live 3 miles from work. Drive the GF's 350Z and when Im Im boared I hop on the TL1000R. Pretty much use the VX to drive to work, get groceries, quick trip to HomeDepo, restaurant, and go Quading on Sundays. LOL! Soccer mom car! 52k miles and counting
V
First, Use the right plug: NGK laser platinum ONLY it runs like crap without them and eats too much fuel with any others ( Yes I know there $10 each, just buy them).
Second, clean the mass air flow sensor, nobody ever thinks of it and it ALWAYS adds MPG. Just make sure you buy the right stuff its called um.. mass air flow sensor cleaner; while your at it put in a new filter.
third, rid yourself of the factory fan and opt for an electric one.
fourth, turn TOD off and install some manual hubs.
I average 18-19 MPG with 20-21 (maybe 22 if theres a stiff wind to my back) MPG freeway, with these mods.
Doc.
Ok - Since this thread is alive again, I'll add an update. Back when I originally posted in '06, I had just shy of 100K miles... Well it's more like 160k miles now. My mileage is up around 17.5 to just shy of 19 usually these days. (I'm not fanatical about my tire pressure and when I add air, I run them around 34-35psi. I think I may boot them to 39 & see what happens.)
The valve cover fix I mentioned. It was covered by warrantybynet.com, but didn't solve my oil consumption problem. (It sometimes uses a lot... other times not so much. Still not solved.)
The intake gasket. I fixed that myself last summer after I was fed up w/ getting 12-13mpg. READ: 250ish miles per tank w/ 20 gallon fill-ups. **Note: Mileage calc lessons were humorous. Thanks! (No offense) After I replaced the gasket, my milage went up to the 16-19mpg range.
To check for an intake leak, just take a can of carb cleaner and spray it along the intake-to-cylinder head mating surfaces while at idle. If the idle goes up or changes, then you have found your leak.
The brake drag... Yes, you will feel the heat and smell them if they are dragging very much.
I would also suspect the fuel gauge is wrong, goalie. Mine is definitely messed up now. The needle is all over the place once the level drops from a totally full tank. Sort of like if the tank didn't have any baffles and the fuel could slosh all around, letting the float rise and fall too much.
Ok - That's all! Best to everyone!
Fogot to ask... Any additional info on the 3.0L diesel swap and the manual hubs??
Holy cow! Did you realize there is 2 years and 4 months between post #58 and #59 ??? Tall, narrow and lightweight tires can help in overall MPG. The most "economical" tire for the best MPG is the TOYO - Open Country A/T in 255/70R18 (only 10.3" wide, 32.1" O.D., weighs only 41 lbs, and set to max PSI of 35 per sidewall panel). Only drawback is the VX will look like it's on skinny wagon wheels.
Gas Mileage tips that have served me well no matter which car I drive
General Maintenance:
1. Tires at maximum suggested pressure
2. replace (or recharge) your filter ever other oil change... a clean filter is better than anything else.
3. and clean your MAF with maf cleaner whenever you change your filter
4. make sure your bearings are in good shape, and properly tightened, also make sure your vehicle is properly aligned... these should be checked annually.
5. run higher octane gas, it might be more expensive but moving from regular to premium can add 3-4mpg and only cost 30cents more per gallon and in general that works out in your favor in the end. play with different grades and pay attention
6. Run full synthetic oil at the weight specified by the manufacturer, pick a name brand filter over a cheapie and use a magnetic oil plug (collects metalic debris in your system)... if you're switching from conventional to synthetic make your first synthetic change for about 200-400 miles and then change the oil and filter again, this will help clean out the sludge that the synthetic clean out that the conventional does not.
7. have the driveshaft/axle shafts lubed (should be done every other oil change)
8. replace your transmission fluid (don't forget the diffs)
9. get your coolant flushed
10. have your water pump and timing belts checked (if your over 80k miles you should consider getting them replaced)
11. Replace your O2 Sensors
12. Replace your sparkplugs
13. replace your EGR valve
Modifications
1. narrow tires, slightly taller than stock (make sure you calibrate your speedo so youre mileage is tracked properly!!!) Also a tread pattern for good on-road characteristics is good for mileage, big knobby mud tires are horrid.
2. smallest wheels possible, wheels weight more than tires, smaller wheels = less weight, pay attention to the wheel weight too, it can vary greatly depending on how it was made and of what material... chrome = the worst
3. a conical, in-bay intake ("shorty" or "ram" style) will be the best for mileage, cold air intakes are the worst, paper filters are generally better for mileage than something like a K&N...
4. an OEM exhaust will likely work much better for mileage than an aftermarket one, consider switching back to stock.
5. REMOVE your PCV system. (note: illegal)
6. Replace or remove your catalytic converters (note: illegal)
7. remove any roof racks, rain guards, bash bars, or other objects that can cause drag (if you want to get serious swap out the mirrors for something smaller/more streamlined too)
8. drop as much weight as possible: remove anything from that car that doesn't need to be there, remove the spare tire, back seat, go with carbon fiber hood or other parts, explore other options for weight reduction, go on a diet :p
Driving characteristics
1. drive at whatever speed gives you maximum MPH per RPM (typically 40-45MPH) maybe instead of the highway there is a smaller road with a 45MPH speed limit.
2. keep the windows up and the AC off, if you NEED to be cool use the AC with the windows up over 40MPH, and below 40MPH drive with the windows down and the AC off.
3. avoid stopping, if you see a red light up ahead, start slowing down early in hopes that it will turn green before you get there so you don't have to stop. (consider this: everytime you use your brakes you're throwing away energy, the harder you use them the faster you're wasting energy)
4. accelerate slowly, the key is keeping the RPMs low
I'm sure I could think of more if I tried... there's a lot of stuff you can do and a lot of things that people never really consider.
I met a guy along time ago ..in the late 70s ..he said he could save 30% in fuel cost in any car..for less then $10 worth of part ..
he told me to go get a tennis ball and some duct tape ..put the ball under the gas pedal and tape it to it....i never tried it ..but ???
and then he said "you have to giveup some thing to get some thing else"
you want a hotrod ...give up mileage...you want mileage... give up the hotrod..:smilegray
i like my:bwgr: 4x4 hotrod..
ime getting mine lpg converted on the 13/oct/08 lpg is 100 octain and he can give me a extra 40bhp the gas tank comes out and a 80ltr lpg cylinder and a smaler petrol tank goes in place petrol in the uk is £113 per litre and lpg is 54pence are petrol prices would be about $2.26 per litre your fuel is well cheep dont know wot you crying about