Printable View
An old-school trick to engine cleaning was to ad a quart of diesel fuel/fuel oil to your engine for about a half hour of run time and then pull the plug, I wouldn't recommend that trick any more. There's also alot of voodoo engine cleaners I wouldn't trust either, especially anything containing naptha, ether, toluene, acetone or anything caustic.
I guess the bottom line is if you have a really gunked-up, high mileage engine and feel you must clean it, don't be surprised if you open a can-o-worms in the process. Don't let your engine get that way and don't buy an engine that way and you should be good...and still you can have problems, there are no guarantees!! Too many forum members have done exactly the right things and still gotten burned...
I am with ya Scott, My VX started using more oil about 7000 miles ago it went from a quart 1000 to 1500 mile to a quart 300 to 700 miles. I figure that maybe if I add MMO now maybe I get it clean before it goes to long. I am the second owner of this car. Bought it with 56000 miles it now has 69000 miles on it. I honestly think that MMO would be not as harsh as some other engine cleaners out there. If it works I'm happy happy happy! if not I will run it till it blows. Just gotta try somethingQuote:
Originally Posted by Scott Larson
you are right - and it does seem to have quieted it down a bit but it could just be my imaginationQuote:
Originally Posted by blacksambo
It would be reasonable to assume that units still running well -- and w/o any lower ring issues -- will be aging to the point where valve seals will seep (especially at start-up). Take a good look out the back window at (cold) start-up. If you see some [light-bluish] smoke, that's probably where your oil is going.
MMO definitely won't help that. Not really convinced these high-mileage oils would provide the "magic" seal conditioner that would help valve seals either. Seems they're more for simple leaky gaskets -- which are better off replaced.
Sleeping on an issue sometimes brings clarity...I recall this morning something my dad did to free sticky rings in our '64 Comet with great results. It was burning oil and he knew it was getting past the rings 'cuz it even smoked a little after warm-up, so one Friday night after mom got home he pulled the plugs and poured Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and then turned the engine over a few times by hand and shut the hood 'till Sunday afternoon. He reinstalled the plugs and fired it up, let it build oil pressure and then reved the hell out of it; man did that thing smoke! After about five minutes of idling and occasional reving he took it out with me and "burned the carbon out". No more smoking Comet, the MMO freed-up the rings and they did their job for the next couple of years until my older brother got the car and proceeded to wreck it much to our father's dismay...Now, would that trick work on our oft-times fouled-ringed little V6's? Can't see how it could hurt to try, it dissolved whatever gunk was sticking the rings in that old Ford. In hindsight, and with what I've learned since all those years ago, I'm sure the ring-lands were carboned-up and the Marvel dissolved that carbon. Sounds like a familiar situation, hmmmmmmm...:_confused Anybody care to give it a shot? :luck:
I did the same thing on a Chevy V8 with transmission fluid in the carb to clean the top end...run the engine...pour it in....shut it off and let sit overnight...start it up the next day and no bugs for about 2 months from the smoke...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Larson
Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't we kinda doing that by blowing Marvel Mystery treated Crankcase oil into the plenum via the PCV?
My rear main seal started leaking so I changed to high-mileage Mobil1 with seal conditioner, and low and behold it worked like a charm 15K miles ago. Still going strong.....Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
Also, you can add Marvel Mystery to your gas and get it into the top of the engine, can't ya?
Via PCV or Fuel, It wouldn't have time to "penetrate" the rings. IMO, not the same.
OTOH, I'd have to think a higher concentration of Naptha via "Motor Flush" would be "the same" as an over-night soak.
IIRC, they say you can go a few days/100 miles with light driving....Can't remember for sure. Haven't used the stuff since the 70's.
I'd have to agree, since the oil ring is in the bottom groove of the piston, the only time it'll have a chance to see any sea foam, or mmo, would be if added to the crank case.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
Good point. Thx
My main skepticism is there are no directions or claims how it works. Add to oil or gas. Well do you add for a few miles before oil change or add it afterwards and run it the whole time. Depending on strength etc a short time would not be long enough or at high strength would eat through everything
Maybe that's the Mystery? I've used it since the 80's and it's great stuff. Wouldn't put too much in the gas tank, after all, it is oil. Good for the valves and older engines.
But it is most definately not oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cable Bob
I use MMO in my nitro vehicles as an after-run oil as it keeps the castor oil from gumming up the works and protects against corrosion, but then so does WD-40. It does have lubricating qualities to it but I wouldn't use it as a primary lubricant, that is to say as a the only lubricant in an engine. I am a firm believer in it's ability to free stickey rings when poured into the cylinders and left to sit for a few days.
When you pour too much in your gas tank it will burn off like oil, blue smoke out the exhaust. I ran it in an old Case Mini Sneaker and it kept it alive beyond it's normal shelf life, it kept the valves from sticking and kept the compression up.
"The product is composed of 74 percent mineral oil, 25 percent stoddard solvent, and 1 percent lard."
74% Mineral Oil is Oil, may not be motor oil but it is oil.
you are right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cable Bob