Today the tires got mounted on the wheels. Tomorrow they get fitted to the car (just leaning against the existing wheel for now.) Oooooh, I'm so excited, I won't sleep at all tonight.
http://i45.tinypic.com/72q0xl.jpg
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Today the tires got mounted on the wheels. Tomorrow they get fitted to the car (just leaning against the existing wheel for now.) Oooooh, I'm so excited, I won't sleep at all tonight.
http://i45.tinypic.com/72q0xl.jpg
HOLY BEHEEZERS DAWG_ Gnarley Dude!! :thumbup:
sorry for the late post here, and even more sorry for the TJ to maddawg, but...
how come no one ever looks at swapping their front IFS to something with more readily available gears and lockers?? (i know Alan-bigmeatvx, swapped his front IFS for a dana 44 IFS, and therefore opened up more options for parts?)
Wouldnt it be relatively easy to drop a IFS out of a vehicle with the same amount of splines on the CV axles? If the CV axles plug in, you make brackets to mount it, and you make an adapter to get the driveshaft to work?
I guess i've been getting more into swapping stuff off other vehicles rather than keeping stuff that breaks and keep on fixing it. Maybe thats the thoughts of an SAS on my own vehicle speaking, i dunno.
Yup...
Thats gonna look OK......:p
OK..as in Freak'n awesome.
Nice ...and all ready for Moab next year :clap:
You, me & frankd....road trip!
Jo
I don't believe Alan ever actually completed the swap. He looked into it and was collecting parts but I believe that was as far as it got. He was also planning on changing out the spinddles and going to use larger (bigger spline count) shafts.
If you're going to do all that you might as well do a SAS unless you love ifs that much. :)
SAS? Solid axle suspension? Don't laugh please.
Maddawg- yes, solid axle swap. No one here will laugh at asking questions like that. SAS is a pretty advanced term, especially if your not into rock crawling much. Welll, i take that back, we will probably laugh a little, but its all in good fun, we all treat each other like brothers and sisters here, so we like to bicker and make fun :)
Billy- last i heard he completed it, but now im curious. And i also assume to just swap the diff would be a lot cheaper. You'd have quite a task convincing me that it cost $5-8 k just for a diff and some brackets?
My Jeep friend suggested going to a Jeep solid front axle. My thinking at that point was "hell why don't I just buy a Jeep" (blasphemy!).
Anybody here know what this piece of structure is?
http://i50.tinypic.com/pxftj.jpg
That's the cross member which goes directly under the front diff.
Here's Tom4brens:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...m/CIMG1005.JPG
Ok, thanks! I thought maybe it might have something to do with the diff drop.
It does. It's in the way & needs to be lowered.
Most of us stay at "The Red Rock Lodge"....an older motel that has two rows of rooms, with a parking lot in between.
The rooms are clean, and they give us a 10% discount. Run about $59-$69 giver or take.
There's a wide sidewalk in front of the rooms and we've somehow adopted it as our own and call it "The Stoop". Most of us gather on the stoop in the evening to cavort and have fun and do some wrenching. Alcohol may be involved.....:goof:
Some have called us the "Moab mafia".... :thumbup: laugho:
www.red-rocklodge.com
Red Rock Lodge
51 North 100 West
Moab, Utah 84532
435-259-5431
For Reservations
Toll Free: 877-253-5431
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_7750.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_7247.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_7974-1.jpg
Yep a motley crew as would be expected, lol. Just kidding all, you should see the Baja bunch I used to run with. BUT, I managed to get all four tires on the VX this morning. :p Now to see if I can rent a Sawzall for a day.:bwgy:
looks great - the way our fenders flare it almost looks like the tires are just a continuation of the sexy vx curves
That's one fine lookin' Ironman if ever there was one, NICE JOB!! :thumbup: :_steering
Thanks guys!!
Looks great Maddawg. :thumbup:
Good choice on the rims and tires. It reminds me of my Ironman a few years back. :yesy:
Trimming front edge of clad: Determine the area of contact and lay some masking tape at the outer edge and the inside edge to define the clearance cut. This is the right hand side
http://i47.tinypic.com/2z7fzfm.jpg
I used a jigsaw which creates some heat and leaves a bit of slag behind the blade. Hey, donworryaboudit! It comes off with fingers or razor blade. So its best to not take too much off at first, can always come back and remove more if needed.
http://i50.tinypic.com/23vm2s1.jpg
Good! Now go do the other side.
Lookin good mad dawg! Fyi, brand new razor blade seems to be the best way to cut cladding, or airsaw, i wouldnt go sawzall
Too late man, its a done deal. I can't see a way to avoid cutting the rear fender clad with the Sawzall because the clad is tucked up right against the sheet metal. The only way to avoid would be to remove the fender clad completely. :( BUT...if you're referring to the front piece, yes that is easy with a small hand saw.
Ok, I'm done with the left side. I pretty much followed Kate's guide and I do have clearance, but its nothing to rave about. I'm pretty sure I'm going to experience some rubbing with suspension articulation.
This pic shows the screws removed from the splash guard and the next pic shows the screws themselves.
http://i46.tinypic.com/rsbuqg.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/126a4nd.jpg
Now the splash guard can be pulled away and bent upward. I used a bungee to my door mirror to retain it.
http://i47.tinypic.com/67sg9v.jpg
Now the structure is revealed below.
http://i47.tinypic.com/dmqibt.jpg
And for comparison this is the clad and sheet metal removed.
http://i50.tinypic.com/2i9nm9y.jpg
Save this anchor/clip nut.
http://i46.tinypic.com/2mchki8.jpg
The next two pics show the edge that needs to be hammered back.
http://i45.tinypic.com/2dvkdn6.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/aynkmc.jpg
I used a small handsaw to cut away this piece because there was nothing behind it now.
http://i45.tinypic.com/2s6oxet.jpg
Because I'm such a neatnik I radiused the lower corner. The hole above it is where the saved anchor/clip nut will be reused (in the sheet metal behind).
http://i50.tinypic.com/qnl0ea.jpg
Now tuck the splash guard back behind the clad and reinstall the screws. Done.
http://i50.tinypic.com/jktw14.jpg
Well, not quite. I didn't like how close this section of the splash guard looked to my tire so I sawed it off.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2col7pt.jpg
Well, I hope this is informative and good luck with installation of your humongus tires in the future. If I missed anything let me know.
Great write up/pictorial :thumbup:
Yup..you'll probably find yourself doing additional trimming over
the next several weeks as you flex everything more.......I know I did !
Jo
No cladding trim needed.....
...but entire axle rotates forward as you lift.
My tires are very close to the front of the rear arches...with plenty of space to the rear.
Adjustable Lower Links fix this...Ryan (LittleBeast) has 'em......
.....they are on my shopping list.
jo
Very nice! Keep up the good work!
I went with some "close to a 33 inch tire" on my stock 18s, and you make me regret it! Looking good my friend! Also I might be a tad bit jealous of the ironman edition...!