I thought I was wrong once... But I was mistakenQuote:
Originally Posted by samneil2000
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I thought I was wrong once... But I was mistakenQuote:
Originally Posted by samneil2000
had mine since new and always rand between 1/4 -1/2Quote:
Originally Posted by VXobsession
OK here is where i am at . last i told you the mechanic said he checked the bolt and it was fine (I hope he checked it) He said he did a compression test and it was fine (again was not there so taking him for his word) he said it was absolutaly the thermostat being aftermarket so it told him about a compression leak tester that changes the blue liquid to yellow if there are gasses in the radiator to make it overheat (kind of on the same basis as the emmisions in the overflow for the antifreeze which my car failed detecting the co2) he said he would get one and test my car befor he did the thermostat.
so he got one and tested it and told me it was fine and the thermostate was the problem so i got one from st charles since for 2 weeks my mechanic said it would be there tommorrow, +1 for st charles :) got mine in 3 days. well after him putting it in he told me he took my car on a test drive and it was fine, good to go. great i thought untill i took if for my test drive an guess what , you got it . it OVERHEATED AGAIN!!
I went to autozone and got my own engine compression leak tester and sure enough it passed on this one. here is a pick and video of the blocktester and how it was used.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/tester.jpg
here is the video of the test and results
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X05PDw5IE1U
Here is the thing, I told the mechanic to get my car to over heat you have to drive it hard, meaning reve it above 3000 rpms. maby floor it a few times all when driving on the highway. for example I live in staten island , i took my car on the expressway for roughly 15-20 miles not to much traffic , I drive it around 50-70 mph moving the revs around from 2000-5000 . doing this the temp got right to the hot line at the end of this drive about a 15 - 20 minute ride. going back home i babied the car only going 40 and keepiing the revs at 2000 not above and the temp stayed at the line below the h but never rose.
any ideas, im at my whitz end, i really dont want to get rid of the vx but cant keep fixing things that dont solve the problem.
could it be the bolt if there are no gasses in the radiator?
An overheating tranny will cause overheating. Also have you had your radiator flow tested?
I would imagine if you modify your driving habits then your vehicle would no longer overheat. If you have to drive at 5k RPM for 15-20 minutes then just don't drive like that and it wouldn't give you issues. I don't ever need to drive my VX like that, even when I'm goofing off in the dirt.
I'm sure the factory system should be strong enough to cool the engine under hard driving, but extreme driving for 20 minutes would put almost any factory stock cooling system to the test, and repeating that would eventually cause parts to fail.
i did that just to see if i still over heated. if I drive on long distance on an expressway at posted speed I will still overheat. it just happens faster if I drive a little harder. the drive was mostaly at 3000 rpm but passing vehicles was at the 5roll markQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
also I was wondering is there anyway this could be a head gasket if I don't have it gas is in my radiator now,smoke or loss of power?
Maybe you covered this in the other threads you mentioned, but I didn't see anything about it here so just thought I'd ask to make sure the simple stuff has been covered. Have you checked your anti-freeze mixture lately? An approximate 50/50 mix is generally recommended, since straight anti-freeze or straight water doesn't have the cooling efficiency of a mix, and it's easily checked using one of those $1 testers you can get at any automotive store.
Just bringing it up so as not to overlook the possible obvious. And not that it should be needed under normal operating conditions, but something like the coolant system additive Water Wetter (I think Royal Purple also makes a similar additive) may be worth consideration until the problem is determined.
antifreeze mixture is good
ITS FINALLY OVERQuote:
Originally Posted by zadam123
Meaning you solved the problem...or something else? That had sort of an ominous tone to it depending on how it was read.
ITS FINALLY OVER!
On a hope and a prayer i brought my radiator to a radiator shop. It cost me 100 to have it professionaly cleaned and checked out(they took it out an put it back in) He told me it was pretty cloged up maby 50% so they blew it out top an bottem (this is what the last guy told me he did for 2 days but for some reason i didnt believe him) this guy also checked my a/c for me since it hasent worked after the last guy installed the heater core (they told me one had nothing to do with the other, liars) also since they did the heater core my compressor keeps comming on and off every 5 minutes , they said it was a coinsidence that it happend after the heater core.
so this guy blew out the radiator and said there was to much freon in there probably when they did the heater core they needed to replenish it and added to much and the final result ....A DRIVE HOME WITH MY A/C KICK'IN STRONG WITHOUT OVERHEATING, EVEN WHEN DRIVING IT HARD !!!!!!!
WOOHOO I GOT MY BABY BACK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zadam123
Congrats zadam I hope this is the final chapter of you quest in finding the overheating issue and i think you finally did......The shop you was dealing with was the real issue.
I hate shops that does want your business,but fails doing the job right
and also lying to you.
Congrats and have fun,you still can enjoy the rest of the summer with blow cooling A/C.
Awesome! I know how good it feels to finally get that problem fixed. Funny thing is I got mine fixed over 2 years ago and I still catch myself checking the temperature gauge on a regular basis when it's hot outside.
There's nothing wrong with checking the gauges. Don't feel guilty.Quote:
Originally Posted by phines
Quote:
Originally Posted by zadam123
Please please please, get a written report for the guy that fixed your problems, and take that and the account back to the first shop.
Even if you don't get anything out of them, it should teach them what the should be looking for the next time they come across an overheating issue.
I would just give them the information and see what their response is.
If they don't offer any refund, ask for 50%.
If they are total a**holes, walk out and just post a review of their service on every site you can.
PK
thank you for all the responses on this issueQuote:
Originally Posted by PK
funny thing is they told me they guarentee there work but when i said the car still overheated they said all they will do is try to find the problem, then said they wanted to have the radiator sent out and would cost more money to do it, how is that guarenting you work by telling me its definataly the thermostat and then telling me it will cost me more money to find the real problem? so i doubt i will get anything back. but will absolutaly post neg reviews on sites and maby even the BBB
as far as the temp guage , when this thing rose it rose quick with no symptoms of anything except the loss of my a/c. Is there anyting i can buy to add like a warning buzzer to let me know if it starts to overheat? I dont want to go through this again.
Good to hear zadam.Quote:
Originally Posted by zadam123
And for what my opinion is worth, the shop that told you the heater core has nothing to do with the A/C system was correct. The only way the heater core can be used to aid in cooling is when the engine is running hot and the heater is turned on. (The additional cooling effect is accomplished by incorporating the extra fluid capacity in the heater core and the heater hoses themselves).
They also proved themselves correct when they determined that the A/C system had too much freon in the system. That can have just as adverse an effect on the systems' cooling capabilities as not having enough freon.
While it sux that it cost you unnecessary $$ in the process because of the first shop, it's good to hear that you found a shop who knew what they were doing and got the VX fixed. Happy summer cruising!
Dang...I must of been a mechanic in a previous life :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
Glad to hear all is well with your VX again. Just sux when you take it to the guys that are supposed to know what they are doing and the have no clue!
Fixed that for you so you weren't just a "parts changer"... like me! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
ok im curious now. i bought the car new and know what has ever been done to it, if my car overheated and heater core was replaced, do they have to add freon to it, maby they had to take off a freon line to do the heater core?Quote:
Originally Posted by Y33TREKker
if not how can i get to much freon in the system?
it worked untill last summer and only things done to the car were heater core,theromostat and clutch fan
Sometimes people will just blindly dump "X-amount" of refrigerant into the system instead of using using gauges to add what is actually needed. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by zadam123
Only the shop that replaced your heater core would know whether they broke open the A/C system in the process, but normally, they shouldn't have had to. The A/C system is a closed/pressurized gaseous system entirely separate from the heater core/radiator water-filled system.Quote:
Originally Posted by zadam123
If they did add freon to your A/C system when they were replacing your heater core thinking for some reason that it would help with the overheating problems you were experiencing, it's like RickOKC said, maybe they didn't properly use/read the gauges made for working on A/C systems and simply overfilled/over-pressurized the A/C system.
We can only speculate on what may have happened and who may have done what, but the important thing is that it sounds like your VX overheating problem has been solved.
:?::?:
following this closely as had 2 overheating episodes in a month.
Both around 95 degrees, A/C on , going slow on a trail. Was OK for about a mile, but when I stopped...temp needle maxed. Turned off A/C, heat on max, drove faster on trail...temp came back to normal within a min or two. No doubt due to A/C, air temp, slow speed.:rollo:
I figure my Kilby skids must prevent some heat from escaping, plus my VX is carrying a fair amount of extra weight full time (tires, skids, sliders, roof rack, cargo basket, f/s spare, hitch, superbumper, JAMAS boxes....and the 2 plastic skids.) That's about 450 lbs.
So that's like 2 real good size passengers..... should be OK I'd think.....:?: Dub probably carries about 1000 lbs freight on board! :p....:?:
I have Purple Ice in the coolant which claims to reduce temp a few degrees. With the extra demands I'm putting on it, and the full skids, figure a radiator functioning at peak efficiency would be a really good idea. Since I don't know service history, I'm thinking of doing what zadam did...having radiator prof cleaned.
Could a cleaning/backflush create leaks, similar to when you switch from dino to synthetic?..i.e. cleans out crude that's actually plugging a hole?
Thoughts, suggestions, recommendations? :thanx:
p.s. pbkid prev suggested cutting a few extra holes in the skids to vent heat, with a backward facing cupped cover (to prevent getting hung up)....but that will cost bigger $$$.....
I am not a pro, but I believe coolant does loose its effectiveness overtime. A flush and refill every so often is a good thing.
Sue did you read the post about the aluminum radiator? Probably not cheap, but if you consider your extra heat-generating / trapping mods as permanent, maybe it's a good idea to approach the solution to your intermittent problem as a permanent cooling mod as well?
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=20866
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/Rad16.JPG http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/Rad21.JPG
I don't think that is correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
The major constituent of most coolants is some form of glycol, although there are other chemicals used. It does not break down chemically in a sealed cooling system, it will breakdown in the environment.
What does break down are various additives that inhibit corrosion. It also gets dirty.
darn....I think it's official, I've got an overheating issue, now occurring every time I drive...:(
Just reviewed this thread and pulled out all the various things mentioned as possible culprits:
- Broken head bolt
- Head gasket
- Thermostat
- Stuck thermostat
- Radiator cap
- Sensor that turns fan on/off
- fan clutch
- Heater core
- Water pump
- Radiator obstruction
- Anti-freeze mixture
Printed out "newthings" recent thread on the custom Ron Davis aluminum radiator too......http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=20866
Called up my mechanic to make appt...first thing he says is why don't I put in an aluminum radiator....hmmm...now there's an idea......:?::drool2::drool2:
OK, gonna look into details of the Ron Davis radiator...gulp...and see what kind of moula I'd be talkin' here...gulp....also asked newthings for detail$.
After I faint, and dave revives me, I know I'll have to have my mechanic explore some of the "other" possible culprits.
Since my heat-adding mods are basically "permanent", this aluminum radiator really does make good sense......that's my story and I'm stickin' to it! :slap:
Stuck thermostat. Open or closed, it doesn't matter. If it's closed, water can't circulate. If it's open, water circulates too much, too fast and can't pull the heat away. The fact that it just suddenly started overheating is the clue IMHO. Faulty rad cap is also a suspect in this hot mystery
Sue I've been having the exact same problem too. Only when I use the A/C does it start to shoot up after about 10 minutes. I look forward to hearing what you find out!
Agree with Scott, you can have new radiator, shiney new cap, the prettiest new hoses, ect..... But if the thermostat isnt working right, none of that new stuff will cure your problem. Maybe it's just me, but I always start with the little (read cheap) stuff first. And these cheap things probably needed replaced anyway. Are you Loosing coolant? Also check the firewall between brake booster and fender for coolant. I've seen my truck spray coolant thru the resivour cap.
Mine does it too, and so did my other vx in the Texas heat with ac on in stop and go traffic, I just turn ac off and sweat til I start moving. Funny thing is the temp gauge in the truck says normal or tad over half when scan gauge says 210 , but after it gets just 6 degrees warmer the needle shoots way over, I have let it get to 222, too hot for me, no leaking coolant, coolant new in last yr and half and royalmpurple wetter always used too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Yeah, absolutely, going to have mechanic start next week picking off the possibilities (based on his eval and what he suspects). I'll also discuss various options with him re: radiator flush, alum radiator, etc...Quote:
Originally Posted by IndianaVX
1) Drove it for last 2 days up the big hill, with A/C, NO overheating at all...:?: but AIR temp was at least 6-8 degrees cooler....can that small of an air temp variation 6-8 degrees (91 vs. 98-99) really make a big difference??
2) Talked to "Bill" today at Ron Davis Racing Radiators. He wanted to ask about some things about my VX before he finishes the design updates (from "newthings") on the aluminum unit.
He had me try some stuff:
- evaluating how far the fan blades protrude beyond the shroud (toward the rear of truck). The top of the shroud is a little deeper, for finger protection, but the sides are a little shallower.
My fan blades BARELY break the plane of the shroud.....meaning, my fan blades are set well INTO the shroud. Bill said that set up moves LESS AIR.
WHAT DOES EVERYBODY ELSES VX LOOK LIKE IN THIS REGARD??
COULD THIS BE YET ANOTHER "HAND MADE" VARIANCE??
- moving the OEM main fan blades manually, feeling for resistance, when cold and when hot.
We found it spun pretty well, even easier when engine was warm
- We checked to see if all bolts holding the radiator were tight and flush, with no spaces - checked ok.
- Dave and I already confirmed the A/C fan comes on appropriately.
- He asked if everything appeared to be OEM...he STRONGLY recommends ONLY OEM parts such as the blades, shroud, etc... He feels they're properly engineered for the vehicle, have certain tolerances, and are more durable in general.
- [*He advised the OEM mechanical fan can move MORE AIR than a twin electrical fan set up can, so he recommends we keep the OEM....and make sure it's functioning optimally.
Is there a spec on the fan blade placement?.....gotta look that one up in the big manual.
Any comments, input????
.
.
Sue...your vx is just too clean. The dirt keeps the sun from heating things up...see, there is a method to my madness! :D
Sue, I looked at my fan last night and it's relation to the shroud. Mine protrudes about 3/4" at the top. I don't know how you would modify that clearance, maybe someone put washers in-between the fan and the clutch. You mention that the fan moves easier with your hand when warm? When it gets Hot it should actually be harder to move since the thermostatic clutch should be engaging. Of course this is when measuring resistance with the engine off. It is not recommended to check this with your hand while the engine is running :smilewink
Have you checked to make sure you don't have wax residue clogging the radiator fins from your incessant detailing? All kidding aside, a good power washing of the radiator might rid it of excess dust and grime that builds up after time.
I saw the same thing discussed recently on one of those half-hour automobile repair television shows.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zu4two
They suggested holding a flashlight or worklight behind the radiator and looking to see how much light shined through to the front, because over time, road debris can accumulate between the radiator fins (and any other fluid cooling coils/fins in that area - like trans cooling coils, a/c condensor coils, etc) which can restrict air flow and significantly reduce cooling capacities.
And seeing as how the VX front end is just a straight shot right into the grill, it's not hard to imagine how a lot of road debris could find it's way into our radiators. Sometimes if we're lucky, it's checking the simple stuff that pays off.
Nothin' that a good pressure washing can't fix...
I'll give that a try. Same with me Sue, doesn't overheat when the A/C isn't running. Thanks for the tips.
I'm going to try the pressure washer for sure, I see all kinds of bugs and brown crap on mine. Guess I can just blast it straight on?Quote:
Originally Posted by gergmon
What about your fan blades Greg, are they way into the shroud or do they break the plane by some distance?
This was October of last year on my long road trip...but it pretty much looks the same now....does this seem to be a lot of crude?
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_4763.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_4758.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_4757.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_4760.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSC_4762.jpg
I'm going snap some pics tomorrow of the fan blades. I'll post them for comparison.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zu4two
"Bill" also described how the "oil" in there should actually get thicker when hot, so it should be harder to spin the blade by hand after it's been warmed up. It was kind of a subjective assessment by Dave and I but it appeared to spin a little easier after engine was up to temp.....AND ENGINE WAS OFF :slap:. :_thinking
I got in touch with the VX owner on ebay that had purchased the FFD twin fan set-up and was so pleased with it. He's somewhere in TX and has had overheating for a while, with A/C on, in stop/go traffic, on high air temp days. He installed the twin fan set-up but it didn't help problem. When he contacted the company, they realized he should have been sent the "extreme" package, which is a SINGLE 17" FAN, and that solved his problem. This is consistent with what "Bill" told me.....a single larger fan can move more air than the smaller electronic fans.
Here's pics of the guys install: I thought the FFD set-up was in addition to the factory fan, and would be mounted in front of the radiator, but these pics appear it replaced the OEM.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...LLEDONVX-1.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...SETUPONVX3.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...SETUPONVX4.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...SETUPONVX2.jpg