Good update, thanks.
Watching and waiting...
-V
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Good update, thanks.
Watching and waiting...
-V
glad to hear it. $200 dollars sounds great.
looking for hitch as well, any hope ? > the new guy
Read the string.
Put me in line for one. Have the funds, and we're looking to utilize the utility in my wifes new VX. We can hardly wait to play with it.
So this new one will allow for additional tongue weight right?
As far as the Curt hitch, I have seen two varieties. Which one is it? Looks like the main difference is the way it is winged at the top to attach.
Outside: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...cleid=20009025
Inside: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-...ht_6667wt_1034
Which one is the right one? The more expensive non-ebay one I bet.
Nope. Somebody please give that man a lolliepop. 2 guesses & both wrong.:)
Just rattling yer cage Dude.
This will be completely hidden by the cladding ('cept for the receiver). It's the next generation of the Tone hitch. It's inspired by 'Buns of Steel' to give your VX the tightest hiney in town.
?
!
I went with the Curt hitch.... I know, I know it gives the "filled diaper" look as Tom4bren as mentioned but.............
in my many years of R & I bumpers, I have never seen ones so whimpy!
I don't know how they even passed the US 10 mph standards.?.?
So, if you are just gonna use it for a camping grill holder or step bar, I would go with the strength of the Curt that bolts to the frame rails.
"That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it"............;)
ooooorrrrrrrr.......wait for the New WelderGuy&Tom special edition.Quote:
Originally Posted by Luna X
Should have all the benefits of both sides of the discussion.
Anyone know which is the correct mount for the curt hitch?
Outside: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...cleid=20009025
or
Inside: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-...ht_6667wt_1034
Sorry, I misinterpreted what you were asking. I thought that you were asking which of the two links you posted were what we've been calling the Tone upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
Sorry, I don't know. Maybe PM SilverBullet. I think he's the most knowlegable about the Curt design.Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luna X
not sure if the inside works as well but the outside is easier to mountQuote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
Just bought: http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Trailer-Hitches
I talked to Welder Guy last night. I'm supposed to hook up with him next Thursday or Friday for him to fit check the new design (& to locate the tabs for the cladding bolts). Will keep you posted.
Please do, anxiously awaiting the next generation of tow hitch. Can you snap a picture when you see it???
Dan
sure, but it'll be ugly. It'll still just be tacked together & not fully welded.
I'm wondering if the hitch will fit the same notch in Rowhard's fiberglass rear skid plate. Any good info on that would be greatly appreciated!
-V
I dont want to speak for him, but I believe Tom will make sure the hitch fits in his existing "slot" already cut out for the Tone style hitch. So if its in the same position as before, I would say it will fit the same notch in the Rowhards fiberglass rear skid plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vendetta
That's the plan (read page 2 of this thread).
I planned on spending about 2 hours with Welder Guy on Friday (I had lotsa honey-do's that the rest of the day was scheduled for).
Instead, I spent about 9 hours in his shop. This is what we learnt:
Rural Virginia has lotsa 'good ol boys' stopping by throughout the day with beer in hand willing to "help".
Things behind the cladding are much tighter than I thought they were. Everytime that we adjusted the design to eliminate an interference, another came about. After about 6 iterations of the design, we think we have a viable product.
The cut out in your cladding (for the original Tone hitch) should still be correct.
The receiver will protrude approximately 1/2 inch further than the original. This should be a good thing though since some were having problems installing a locking hitch pin.
We may be able to retain the tube bumper but the tabs for the cladding bolts will have to be cut off. Of course, I already cut mine up thinking that we wouldn't be using it anymore.
We will lose both of the rear snatch points. Sorry ... you'll just hafta get a receiver Mr Scary Hook from Harbor Freight. The right side snatch point uses 3 bolts that we need to use. The left side only uses 1. Since we are going for strength on this design, 6 mounting bolt features are worth the loss of the shackles. We'll have 2 vertical bolts and 4 horizontal.
It will be made from 2" thick wall steel square tube. It's going to be heavy so shipping cost will be more.
Welder Guy will try to have the first prototype fully welded in a week. He's keeping the tacked version as a shop queen to use for comparison till the process is locked in.
I took some pix. I'll get them posted later today.
As promised:
Shows everything removed for installation.
Shows all that's left of the tube bumper (had to retain that part for side cladding bolts)
New hitch (just tack welded so far - spacing and angles later changed)
Hitch held in place with jack & cladding held on with 3 bolts.
Hitch without cladding. Right mounting plate missing (it was a BFH thang - you wouldn't understand).
Looking good.
how hard was it to remove the bolts that were holding the snatch/tie-down points?
17mm box end with a 2' piece of PVC for leverage.
It was suprisingly easy considering the age, mud and fine threads.
I just re-read your question & see there is more to it than I originally thought.
You CAN remove the one on the left (driver) side without removing the rear cladding. You MAY be able to remove the one on the right (passenger) side without removing the rear cladding but you'll have to be a contortionist.
Your original reply answered my question. However, that is good to know about having to remove the cladding.
I know I've been almost non-existent around this place lately (2 back to back 4-week accelerated summer courses will do that), but I surface every now and again with something to say...
...and I say I like this hitch. Sign me up for one as well, but in a little while -- I have the funds for either a hitch OR a roof rack at this point in time, but not both. If work ever gives me more hours, I'll pick up both...until then, I need to hold onto the extra play money I have, in case I find someone who is actually willing to sell me their rack. ;py;
No problemo.Quote:
Originally Posted by MeowMix
The intent is to get the product designed & produceable right now. Welder Guy will fabricate as needed (neither of us have deep enough pockets to keep a large stock on hand). Summer is his busy time anyway. As the weather gets more worser, he'll have more time to fab stuff for us.
BTW, still looking for someone who is willing to loan me their brush guard mounting brackets for Welder Guy to copy.
About finding someone willing to sell you their awsome rack ... I have no response to that.
Talked to Welder Guy last night. He hasn't started fabricating the final hitch yet. He hopes to get to it later today. Will keep you posted.
OK, spent another 2 hours with Welder Guy last night. He's going to have to start over from scratch. We got the hitch tucked in as far as humanly possible (snug against fuel tank shield & frame crossmember). Still couldn't get the cladding to align properly.
Our fall back position is to change from 2" stock tubing with 1/4" wall thickness to 1 1/2" stock tubing with 1/4" wall thickness. This should NOT significantly decrease the strength since we are WAY overdesigning anyway. The main reason that we were trying not to go away from the 2" tubing is that is what he had on hand. He'll be picking up the new tubing and tack a new copy together ASAP. Poor guy had such confidence in the last design that he actually cut enough tubing for 3 hitches. His plasma cutter is FUBAR & his welder is acting up so that's slowing him down too.
Wierd: I've sheered off two of the 10mm bolts on the rear of the cladding. Not sure what that's all about. I've learnt to get the cladding off in 10 min flat. WooHoo!!!
Are you using a high speed air gun to remove the bolts "pit crew" style?Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Nah, I'm old school - the gorilly approach.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
Talked to Ron last night. He's got the materials for the next build but his plasma cutter is still FUBAR (replacement coming in from Cali early next week). He hopes to have the final prototype by the end of next week. Will keep you posted.
Tom
BTW, looks like the cost is going to come in around $250 by his latest estimates.
Not bad, considering the "over-engineering" factor with custom nip'tuck fit. My VX currently has NO hitch. Tongue-weight & "flex" with the original Tone hitch has always been the showstopper (no fugly bar... haul w/fugly truck instead) & it's still a concern with 1.5" tubing (Class II?)... but this is an exciting prospect!
Question.. would ALL the tubing be 1.5"? Or just the main lateral support between frame rails? Thinking about re-use of existing 2" bars/balls, hooks & other implements we already have.
Like all here, I look forward to updates and the possibility of hauling with the VX soon!
All of the square tube will be 1.5". IIRC Ron said that it's 1/4" wall thickness so that's why I said that we are still well within the realm of 'designed by Max Headroom'. The receiver tube itself will of course NOT be 1.5".
Basically, to keep it all behind the cladding, the 2" tube will not fit without some very creative engineering/fabrication. The $$$ just don't make that practical (don't want to design something that nobody can afford). Besides, that creative fabrication would almost certainly have as much effect on structural integrity as switching to 1.5".
The problem lies with the curvature of the cladding and the location of the fuel tank shield. 2" stock could also be used if the fuel tank shield were modified but then it wouldn't be a bolt on modification. Again, designing something that couldn't be bolted on in the driveway was NOT an option (not everyone can drive from Azrizony to North Darkarta for a custom Ldub install).
That was an absolutely wonderful fall trip...I highly recommend it!Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
About the hitch....as noted before, Dub couldn't get 3 of the bottom cladding bolts in after the hitch install...but when I had the rear skid plate installed, my mechanic did get the skid and cladding lined up and in the holes....:_thinking
I haven't noticed any bulging or embossing on the rear cladding from the hitch pressing on it...:_thinking
Apparently the hitch dimensions were close enough to allow it when it was forced with vice-grips...??:?:
Those cladding mounting holes are going to be relocated to the receiver tube since the tube bumper behind the cladding will either be modified or go away entirely. vt_mav will be the guinnea pig on the installation instructions (my tube bumper has already been cut up).
We won't know until the final design of the hitch if we'll have to include some spacers for the cladding bolts.
Sue, I think that your cladding alignment issue was related to some sharp corners on the hitch plate that needed to be knocked off. If we were going to continue with that design, I'd make sure that we fixed that problem.
Welder Guy's plasma cutter finally arrived last night. He plans on having the next copy tacked together before next Wednesday.
So when do you guys visit Natural Bridge? :D
Been a little while... any update worth mentioning on this project? I know many on the east and gulf coasts have been preoccupied with the weather lately. :_shrug: