Front ARB yes, Todd Adams & Swordy have 'em. Rear can be done but mods are neccesary, Swordy has done that.
From the rules sounds like your best bet would be leave the lsd in rear and lock the front.
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Front ARB yes, Todd Adams & Swordy have 'em. Rear can be done but mods are neccesary, Swordy has done that.
From the rules sounds like your best bet would be leave the lsd in rear and lock the front.
Billy check the vids - it looks like there's a speed element to these events - not just rock crawling - so high speed (relatively speaking) handling is a factor. Doesn't a locker in front adversely effect handling? That's why I was thinking locker in back and LSD in the front would be ideal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
Going up steep hills when traction is critical, weight bias shifts to the rear so the locked diff would be feeding torque through stronger components to the tires with the most traction. Meanwhile the front with LSD would slip a little when needed which would yield better handling in tight corners and also hopefully keep the driveline intact for the whole race. From what I've gathered, the CVs are a weak link and front lockers put a lot more stress on them...
But hey - I'm not an off-road VXer - I readily admit I've never driven a VX (or anything else) that had a locker - so this is all theory. Considering Redlyner is interested in going fast rather than crawling, what are your thoughts?
Ideally an ARB in the front. It is selectable on the fly. Flip a switch you are locked, flip it again you are open. That being said with a non selectable locker in front there is a learning curve for driving with it. Manual hubs will cure any on road issues.
An auto locker up front is not an option, it would have to be selectable. Hitting any high speed turn on 33"s in a VX (from what I have seen) would destroy the front end.
Ideally I would run an ARB in the rear and probably keep it open up front. Problem is, an ARB plus 33" tires would run me right up to $1800, leaving me around $200 for the rest of the race mod fund.
Trying to get the best initial bang for the buck setup. Later mods will come.... later.
Also, most important: to finish first, first you must finish.
HERE is an ARB for 650 obo on the Planet...:bwgy:
^^^
Quote:
Originally Posted by Godwindaniel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Godwindaniel
I'm still not sure what you mean.
The first race of the year was this past weekend, looked like tons of fun. Fastest course yet for the A Class guys. I'll post videos shortly.
Yea...I've begun to wonder if he even reads any of the posts before throwing his random two cents in!
X-kuuuuuuuze ME...:rolleyesgQuote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
But doesn't his sig identify him as a spammer...:confused:
http://www.gpsinsight.com/| http://www.gpsinsight.com/gps-fleet-tracking-system
H E L L O...:_thinking
HAHA! Yeah and he has a 2004 VX!
Go sell your crap somewhere else SPAM BOY!....:upsetgrayQuote:
Originally Posted by Godwindaniel
richard (no offence), reported to admin...buh-bye...:)
Just a short update-
10 racers competed in Class A, only 3 crossed the finish line. The race was 10 laps in 2 hours. Time ran out out B and C Class guys, but time was not the enemy in Class A. Radiators, flat tires, and transmissions seemed to knock most of the guys out.
I'm going to test drive a Vehi this weekend, first one that has gone up for sale by me (within an hour) in months.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Does that definition mean Billy's a spammer? (His sig has links to stuff to buy too.) If he is a spammer he's pretty soft sell - putting two links in his sig with no additional detail about the products in any of his posts doesn't seem consistent with other spammers we've seen in the past.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Just my $.02.
Na, I have never liked the taste of the stuff!:bwgy:
Personally I just think he is trying to pad his post count for some reason...it's not a contest.
He's good for now... Strange postings indeed but, he's ok
There is a '99 Ironman on Ebay with 187,000 miles on it. Hypothetically, if I were to be able to get this in the mid to upper $3k range, anyone think it would be a decent platform for the race rig?
Or should I run in the opposite direction from it? :eek:
Any objection to this pre-race mod list:
33" Tires: $900
Rear HD Links: $300
HD Tie rods: $250
Comp 912 springs: $175
1" Wheel Spacers: $120
Fire Suit: $100
Alignment: $75
New Bushings: $30
1" to 2" torsion crank: $0
Roughly $2k. Does that look like a decent initial strength build up plan? Anything I am leaving off that is more important?
Down the road I would like airbumps, resi shocks, internal cage, maybe some exo-skeleton tubes, 5 point harness, and what ever else I am forgetting.
I've narrowed it down to a few vehicles- VX, WJ (Grand Cherokee), and TJ (Wrangler). But the wife likes the Vehi the most, so I'm doing the most research on it. There are only 4 races left this year and I probably couldn't be ready for the next one (April), but would like to have this completed by the July race.
Why the wheel spacers? Seems like one more thing to break... Probably cheaper or similar price for basic steel wheels in a 16.. Factory 18s might be large for a rally
Only thing you may want to consider is bump stops in case you full compress the suspension.. Dont want those larger tires hitting the fenders
I've run spacers in the past on other rigs and liked the added balance they provided. They are not a must, just a thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
I was reading on here about people shortening their bumpstops, are the stock ones not long enough to prevent fender damage? I was planning on trimming as mush as I could as well. I appreciate the input, especially since I haven't even bought one yet.
I was reading on here about people shortening their bumpstops, are the stock ones not long enough to prevent fender damage?
I'm confused. Seems shortening (shaving) the bump stops would allow more suspension travel, making it more likely that tire would hit the wheel well or fender for over sized tires.
Perhaos there's something I'm not understanding.
The rear bump stops on the VX are about 7"-8" long, in a figure "8" shape. But generally have ONLY about 1/2" clearance from the axle or cross member (or whatever it hits)...thus the VX slams into them at the slightest bump....which makes the extreme jarring sensation. Those of us that have cut them in half are indeed allowing for more suspension travel to make our ride more "tolerable".Quote:
Originally Posted by rsteinmetz70112
You're correct, it makes it more likely the tire would hit something...so most off-roaders wouldn't want to do this I'm told. I don't know why they'd buy the shorter polyurethane stops either?
I don't do extreme off-roading, so I was willing to make the sacrifice for the benefit of a better ride on my daily dirt roads. This upcoming Moab trip will be my first with the shorter stops....I'll know a lot better how it affects things after that trip.
Can see OEM rear bump stop here, black thing with the tan color on the bottom of it (that would be my desert dirt) on it. Pic was taken in my garage, so check out how there (WAS) virtually NO clearance on mine. Cut in half, I have about 3"- 4" now. Ahhhhh....much better! Just eliminates the SLAMMING effect in the rear, by no means do I have a smooth ride, even with the Ranchos set low.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../DSCN04351.JPG
Just an FYI, here's one of the front bumps stops (I believe there's 2 sets up front)...not much clearance there either.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../DSCN04381.JPG
Those are great pics!
Now the question is, how can I squeeze some of these in there to cushion the ride:
http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/ima...20bumpstop.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/P1010226.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...bruiser041.jpg
spend mo' moneyQuote:
Originally Posted by REDLYNER
I wouldn't hit one of those races without at least one skid plate. And for sure on the bump stops - protect the tires and the body with them for cheap. Here is how I did mine:Quote:
Originally Posted by REDLYNER
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Bumpstop.JPG
After a few hits over a couple years the zinc coated plate bent a lil bit and I noticed a crack in the poly so it really needs a full plate to mount against.
Where did you get that bump stop?
Here's another question-
Is the risk to reward worth it for 33"s, or would it be better to go with 32"s?
33"s would be better clearance, better traction.
32"s would be easier on the VX components.
I need to be able to make it through the course (a la 33"s), but mechanically, I have to finish the race.
Thoughts? Essentially, I am test drive away from pulling the trigger. The problem is, there is not one for sale within 100 miles of me (Charlotte, NC).
Check out this thread: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=lift+wiki
The bump stops are from Energy Suspension and the part number is in that initial list - they also come in black. The poly adds some kick-back that the rubber didn't generate, but it is managable.
Since you are not planning on a regearing for a while I would advise the 32"s over 33"s for the lesser impact on performance. The leverage difference is not an issue in that range IMO. There is a weight difference that has more of an impact - in theory anyway. Acceleration, braking, and handling would be easier to deal with, with the lesser weight. I ran 32.3"s and BFG 33"s measure out at 32" so maybe it's not even a topic of concern. Tirerack.com has weights of all the tires they carry and may help you make a decision in that regard. A set of used 16" aluminum modular wheels can be found for a price similar to those spacers which would give you the offset you want and minimize weight gain. :smilewink
Good luck with your search!
Front outer CV's will go pretty quickly with some stick off road, especially with the larger tyres. Also if your giving it alot with the larger tyres you have to think about wear to the auo box
In case your wondering the type of racing Redliner is wanting to race check out www.ecors.com. I have been running a 94 Rodeo in Class A and we ended up taking the series championship. Ended up 3rd for the season in Class B with a 99 Rodeo. During the 1st race of the 2011 season the Class A Isuzu lead most of the race, unfortunatly we had some overheating issues late in the race due to a hole in the radiator but still ended up with a 3rd place finish. The Isuzu's do well, just have to drive them smartly... I would love to see a VX out racing ECORS...