Aight thain...we'll be waiting for the updates on the quarter hour...:yesgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
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Aight thain...we'll be waiting for the updates on the quarter hour...:yesgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
I think we had a miscommunication. This was never meant to be a how-to, that is already done by Phines. I actually used his with a few minor changes. I have some photos to add to his write up and some suggestions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
This was just to give you guys something to look at and something to read. :badhorse:
Done.
I ended up lifting 3 inches. The rear sits about 3/4 inch higher than the front. Not as high as I had it before, it was completely level. My ride isn't as stiff as before, I kind if miss the bone jarring bumps.
I ended up not indexing the passenger side. I still have about 2/3 of the nut with threads. I think it will be fine, but if I need to, I can. (the nut is like 1.5" long)
The clacking went away as well. Once the CVs were level, no problems. My CVs are now just out of level, much better than the ridiculous angle they were before the drop. I would have to work pretty hard to break one now.
The pin seems looser now that I have the truck leveled out. Still haven't pulled it. Now I have to make my new crossmember, or mod the existing one. Then the worst thing ever, clean out the garage. It is so bad right now that it isn't even usable.
On a side note, I don't think lowering the VX via torsion bars would be a good idea. It would ride like garbage. Way to soft.
Nice job Marlin. Do you have any additional pictures you can send me from the SFIFS install? I'll combine everything into one set of instructions that others can download from the site.
Yep, I will put them together. I do have a question. The drivers side zerk fitting is clearly visible on the square plate that the torsion bar key sits in. On the passenger side, its not visible and inside the confines of the torsion bar key. Seems to me they should be symmetrical? Just wondering, I haven't tried the pin pulled, but both torsion bars are lined up appropriately.
As far as suggestions, I would recommend that the torsion bars be on their forward mounting bolts prior to aligning the keys. I would also recommend that the keys be aligned such that they are leaned toward the inboard vice vertical. Especially if you are going to lift the truck. Otherwise you run into the reindexing that I might have to do. I figure 99% of those that would use this will be lifted 2-4" in the front.
I will get everything together once I test it next weekend.
But without the diff it would be a John Dear...
...Or get rid of the VX and its beginning to look a lot like Christmas...
...Mon!:bwgy:
Well, I did wash all the baking soda off of it today, and finally treat the bed liner. Looks like a new truck again. I am still trying to get used to the front not being as high. It also rides a lot softer. I may lift it back up after URE and then lower it in the spring for Moab. Although it does just sit in the driveway most of the time now:(
Rofl... nice Ascinder. Marlin you going to get another red Isuzu emblem for your hood to complete the color scheme before Uwharrie?
While we're talking about colors... anybody know why BigMeat chose that godawful shade of green? Looks like the color of our school desks from the 1960's. ;puke: