http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...axx=300&maxy=0
Ballistic 14 bolt cover.:bwgy:
Printable View
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...axx=300&maxy=0
Ballistic 14 bolt cover.:bwgy:
It will be amaizing if it ever be finished! http://kolobok.us/smiles/light_skin/shok.gifhttp://kolobok.us/smiles/light_skin/shok.gifhttp://kolobok.us/smiles/light_skin/shok.gif
I'm actually getting everything together to build another diesel VX. But it will be 3.0L only http://kolobok.us/smiles/light_skin/blush.gif and still with independent front http://kolobok.us/smiles/light_skin/sorry.gif
Amazing Beau!! too cool!!
@ASA, Why not do a Cummins 4BT, or an Isuzu 4bd1t? They're the perfect engine for the VX IMO...
Plus there is a ton of good swap information out there, and kits to bolt to standard Chevy Trans.
Just a thought :D
Don't worry, Justin will be here this weekend, and with the 3 of us we should have it done by Sunday night. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_asa
:laughing: Bart
Hell yeah! We'll even get the Falcon up and running this weekend too!
Yeah right, I can barely even get an oil change done anymore...
Well, it looks like bad weather this weekend, so maybe we will get some stuff done.....after all, that beer isn't going to drink itself:bwgy: In the spirit of this thread though, the diff covers are on their way as well as a pinion guard for the 14 bolt, and I'm going through all the brackets and tabs at ballistic right now to set up the link system. I am also looking really hard at this gas tank, since I will have to remove the stock one so the links can be properly positioned.
http://www.tanksinc.com/cartimages/prd_lp_37.jpg
It is heavy duty 16 gauge 304 stainless steel. It's only 16 gallons though. Losing 6 gallons will suck a lot, but this new engine is supposed to be quite a bit more fuel efficient, so it might be a wash. I was getting a consistent 12MPG before, so hopefully I'll still see a boosted range with the new powerplant. If not, there's always Jerry cans:bgwo: As far as legalities go for replacing fuel tanks in vehicles, which Billy mentioned was a potential issue, I came across this:
Although the tank in the above picture is not from the same company, I have called and confirmed it exceeds our stock tanks' standards, so we're safe legally. I am planning on running either a Bosch 044 high pressure fuel pump or a Walbro 255. The former is a pump used by the vast majority of pro rally racers worldwide, and in other forms of racing. The latter is also a high pressure pump that is used more in the rock crawling/offroad arena. I plan on mounting either of them externally, with the VX stock pump acting as a "feeder pump" to a small accumulator that is mounted inline between the two. I'd like to get this fuel system sorted out soon, so I can begin to plan the rest of the systems.Quote:
What is a Legal Fuel Tank System?
In the aftermarket fuel tank system industry, there is a lot of confusion over what is “legal” when adding or replacing a fuel tank. We hope the following information helps clear up some of these very important concerns. Be advised that this information is not intended to be a complete list, but rather a general overview.
In order to address the question of which federal or state regulations a fuel system must meet or exceed, it is necessary to know the particular vehicle and fuel system being used. The following information is divided into two main categories, Vehicles less than 10,000 GVW, and vehicles greater than 10,000 GVW.
Regulations for vehicles less than 10,000 GVW
Regulations for vehicles greater than 10,000 GVW
ICC Fuel Tank Regulations
Refueling Tank Regulations
Miscellaneous Information
CAUTION Information
For Vehicles Less Than 10,000 GVW
TFI fuel systems meet FMVSS 301 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards), VESC-22 (Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission), NFPA 1192, ANSI 119.2, RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) regulations, CARB (California Air Resources Board), and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) regulations.
FMVSS 301 states that anyone who alters a vehicle must meet or exceed the structural integrity and performance of the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) fuel system. A fuel system includes anything associated with fuel systems such as the fillneck, tank, gasoline lines, fuel pump, emission canister and fasteners. In other words, if an alterer adds an auxiliary system to a vehicle thereby reducing the performance of the fuel system, he or she has violated FMVSS 301 standards. An example of performance reduction could be if fuel from the original system leaked because the auxiliary system was gravity feeding into the original tank. This creates a real concern as it not only violates FMVSS 301 regulations, but is also a hazardous waste problem.
TFI’s inboard chassis frame and in-bed tank systems meet and exceed the OEM systems in the following areas:
1. TFI tanks are designed using 14-gauge aluminized steel as a minimum instead of the 22 gauge terneplate or plastic that OEM typically uses. Transfer Flow’s aluminum diamond plate in-bed tanks are made from 1/8” thick aluminum.
2. TFI tanks are fully baffled unlike OEM tanks which have no baffles.
3. At a minimum, TFI tanks are drop tested in accordance with VESC-22. When drop tested, they are fully filled with water and cannot leak. Many of TFI’s fuel systems are also crash tested to FMVSS 301 standards.
4. Tanks are 100% pressure tested. Some are tested using a sophisticated automatic Helium testing machine. This machine is capable of finding leaks with a helium concentration of less that 1.00E-7 liters/sec (leak size of 0.0000000315 in-sq or 3.15 E-8 in-sq).
5. TFI tank systems meet the fastener (strap) regulations specified by ANSI, NFPA, and required by RVIA (Recreation Vehicle Industry Association).
6. TFI systems meet CARB and EPA emissions regulations. We design our systems with the correct emission canister capacity necessary for gasoline applications. GM, Ford, Dodge, etc. all use different canisters with different absorption characteristics. Each TFI fuel system is designed to be compatible with that vehicle’s emissions system.
7. TFI fillneck designs meet CARB fuel fill regulations. We design our fillnecks with proper alpha and beta angles and correct inclination angles for gasoline and diesel applications.
8. TFI systems meet CARB and EPA requirements concerning fuel fill rates. This test verifies that our system fills at a minimum of 10 gallons per minute - a rate equal to that dispensed at most gas stations.
I think you'll be fine with 16 gallons. I mean, you can always carry a 5 gallon jerry can and that will give you basically the same capacity you had before. Plus, it's not like you will be going on cross country road trips in it all the time, so...
Yeah, bummer about the weather, it was soooo nice last weekend. We should get some work done and drink a lot. Maybe Sunday morning it will be clear enough to take the Troop out back with some toys and spray a little lead...
Bart
Nice! I installed an aluminum version of that tank in my CJ. Mine was without baffles so I ordered two fuel pickups that have flappers. When the fuel pickup goes dry on one side it shuts and only one pick up feeds fuel. I installed a Y-fitting on my high-volume in-tank Walbro pump and cut the fuel lines long enough to put the pickups in alternate corners... no fuel starvation on ascents, descents, or sidehilling. I chose to use a fuel sending unit that has no moving parts and reads more accurately: http://www.stewartwarner.com/Comp/prel/intel00.html
http://www.maximatech.com/products/sendersandsensors
It drops right in and is not affected by the fuel pickups. Finding out what ohms to use and what depth to use are the only issues. See ya in 25 hours or so! :_beer: :yesy: :smack::_wrench: :yesy: :tweed::_snowplow:yesy:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascinder
What did that sensor setup run you? Sounds great to me!! I guess with the system I'm running(returnless), the fuel can overheat in the rails at very high temperatures, so I have to figure out a fix for that too, probably just some heatwrap.
On a sidenote, those awesome ORI struts Billy mentioned are only available in the ST version right now. I am thinking more along the lines of the DP3s, but they aren't expected to be produced until next year due to machining issues being worked out.
I got the sensor for around $100 but I have seen them as cheap as $70 - I can't find a link to the fuel pickups tho... I might have to scrounge receipts to find info - I bought all that 4 or 5 years ago. Why aren't you using a return line?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascinder
Just because of short frame Bighorn will be more direct swap donor :) Though, lot of wiring issues anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorRichie
4BT's are also extremely heavy if I remember right, I was looking at putting one in a 1946 WDX dodge power wagon project awhile back. They're great for torque and good horepower, but if you do stuff like jump your ride at all, be prepared to be making trips to the body shop for a tweaked frame. I'm already very leery of my VX with this heavier engine and the winch and winch bumper up front.
Here's the progress so far. I'm still in the gutting the VX/accumulating parts stage, but at least it is progressing....
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1020.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1021.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1022.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1024.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1025.JPG
H O L Y P O O P ! ! ! :eek:
Those jack stands look like they did the trick!!! Just be careful, bro!
Bart
The pads on the rear stands are 8" across and are stuck up in the old spring pockets. The fronts I removed the pads and they have a cup underneath which I have got jacked up around some bolts on the front frame rail. I also have two three ton jackstands supporting the sides where the rear trailing arms connect to the frame. Trust me when I say I'm paranoid about VX's falling on me:rollo2:
WOW!!! You go wildman! That's insane - when we talked about how much headroom you had in your garage I had no idea you were going to take up ALL of it! I'd say your just a bit more committed to the task now... :p
Yeah, the funny thing is, I still have about 18-24" until it hits the roof of the garage, but only about a foot until the windshield hits the beam. It doesn't matter though, I just wanted it up high enough so I don't have to weld on my back. I can also stick some mock up PVC axles and foam wheels under there to see how everything is going to articulate and what will hit.Quote:
when we talked about how much headroom you had in your garage I had no idea you were going to take up ALL of it!
Yeah, committed, that's what I'm going to be if I don't get this project finished:smilewinkQuote:
I'd say your just a bit more committed to the task now...
http://unrepentantoldhippie.files.wo.../02/insane.jpg
Have you had any breakthrus with the suspension geometry software? I like the idea of PVC axles and links with the rod ends taped to the fake links. Should help you eliminate axle steer upon flexing.
No breakthroughs yet. I have been trying to pin down what I want to use for my Hydro steering and also been trying to find a good set of full hydraulic capable highsteer arms that have adjustable kingpin preload centercaps. What do you think about this idea? What I want to do is get the double ended arms like these:
http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_im...arge_image.jpg
But instead of just getting one short and one double ended arm for crossover steering, I would get two double arms so that I could run the ram behind the differential, and a high mounted tierod across the front. The way I'm envisioning it is that the steering would be somewhat similar to a parallelogram, but one that would pivot off of the kingpin caps not the bases. Does that make sense? The only thing I'm running into is that I really don't like this picture:
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/91924...ng_diagram.jpg
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/91924...ng_diagram.jpg
It looks like the hydro side of the parallelogram would not be a straight line and may cause things to act funny. I think it might just be in my head though. Common sense dictates that if I have two(four) points that are equidistant from their respective pivot points, that all the angles will stay the same-parallelogram style. In other words, as long as the distance(and angles) between the two forward steering arms stays the same, the rears have to match too, so even if the hydro steer diagrams look funky, they should still work right anyways with a tierod added across the backs. Maybe I'm overthinking/analyzing this stuff though.......:confused:
Just wondering if you considered to separate body from the frame, build whole suspension on the frame and then put the body back. I believe it would be much easier to weld, measure and finally less dangerous :)
I would absolutely love to do that, but I'm fresh out of room for a body and a frame in my meager garage. Justin and Bart will attest to this. My plan is to mock up the suspension under the VX using PVC pipes and the links so I can see how everything works and where it needs to bolt up, then when I get ready to weld I will drop the frame in place and support the body with the large yellow jacks. The trick is going to be making sure I have enough room for everything when it's all said and done.
I have thought about this after you brought up the potential issues and I think you are right to concern yourself. I'm not real sure of the severity though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascinder
The fault I see in the design is different than what you may have been concerned with though. I see the major issue as this... the linking rod that acts as a bridge between the two steering arms never adjusts in length while the rods at the ends of the plungers have to swivel to compensate for the throw of the steering arms. That swiveling motion would cause a subtle variation in length between the steering arms that would apply deflective pressure to the linking rod. I just created the basic concept with single lines in AutoCAD and in my sketch I noticed a difference of -5/16" in distance applied to the linking rod from the point of center (no steer) to 40 degrees of steer (using 10" arms from kingpin to arm end - so 20" total arm length).
We could get much more accurate with what you are dealing with if you knew the length of the steering arms, the kingpin separation, the angle of max steering throw, the distance of separation between the ends of the plungers, and the location off axle center line to the center of the ram. I hope you know what I mean... The "more desirable" method in your illustration would lessen the degree of severity of the "most desirable" method because of the equal angle of the rods at the ends of the plungers during full lock and seemingly during the whole of the steering motion but there would most likely still be a variation in length.
Remember when I asked you, "Why do we do this to ourselves?"? :p As always, I may or may not be correct!
I see what you are saying, but it just stands to reason that if the fronts of the arms must remain parallel so your tires are both steering the same axact angle, then the rears must too, does that make sense? That would mean that throughout the movement of the tie rods, as one increased it's arc, the other would simultaneously decrease it's arc at the same rate which I would think would balance out. The other issues I am having are that I was reading over at pirate that people have basically said this won't work in theory or on paper, but there are people running it problem free. It's very confusing trying to sort through all the contradictory information. I think I may make a model out of PVC and some plywood to real world test this. Also, I wanted to ask if you saw an incredibly big difference between the more desirable and most desirable mounting methods. They look about the same except the ram is deflected to the right in one and centered in the other. Another note is that most hydro steer arms I have heard of mount up on 8 or 9 inch centers. I dont know if that matters, but there you go, they did mention proper Ackerman angle as the reason for that though. Also the rams I have been looking at are typically 8" throws for ~40 degree steering and
10" for 50 degree if you get the U joints machined. Here's also the prints for an example 8" ram(not the one I'm using, but close enough)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...center_ram.jpg
The pivot centers of the kingpins are approximately 53.5" as I assume the forward tierod will be as well.. The tierods for the ram are obviously whatever lengths they need to be to set up properly. Hope this helps, I'm crossing my fingers.
Just wondering mate when your done can you come over here and do mine :D
These would be sweet on that front 60...50 degrees of steering!:bwgy:
http://www.spidertrax.com/core/media...b1c672861d6494
I would have already bought those because they are priced around the same as upgrading to forged inner C's and knuckles, but the spidertrax setup requires two unit bearings at an additional cost of $740!!! Unit bearings are also not servicable, only replaceable, so if one goes out, so does your wallet:freek: I was thinking more along the lines of this for 50 degree steering:Quote:
These would be sweet on that front 60...50 degrees of steering!
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/DSCN0619.jpg
For $300 for the whole set, not too bad. I could also use the opportunity to upgrade to alloy alxles. This nice part is that they retain the maunfacturers warranty!!
Yeah, shoot me a plane ticket and put me up, and I'll do it.Quote:
Just wondering mate when your done can you come over here and do mine
Well, Beau, I'm confusaled with ya! OK, the distance between the fronts of the arms related to the rears is always equidistant because of the design of the arms you are looking at eliminate the Ackerman principle... the "issue" that I bring up is that since 3 sides of the parallelogram are of static distance but one side is not, pressure is put on the tie rod - the weakest of the 4 sides. With what I just did in Cad, based off the dims you gave me, the deflection of the tie rod will be 7/32" or just over 3/16" with an 8" stroke. Because of this, I would say stay away from the long tie rod bridging the arms together. However, with those dims, you only get 31 degrees of steering if the ram was mounted 6" off axle center (which would be inline with the arm at 40 degree steer)! I just cannot see how they are getting 80 degrees of steer from lock to lock with an 8" stroke and an 8" straight arm! An 8" arm would need a 10" stroke to accomplish 40 degrees each way in this example because the Ackerman angle is nonexistent in the design of the arms. That is just what I have found - again, I could be wrong or missed something. PLEASE school me if you find out how they make it happen.
Otherwise, in the case of the more desirable way and the most desirable way - I see little difference but it seems the more desirable way is simply the middle ground between the other two options. I'm going to go work on my Army truck now - it's far more simple!!! :)
Do you have CAD? I can send to you what I have so you can see what I see happening... Happy researching! :p
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascinder
Yeah I have cad, but the last time I turned it on was about a decade ago. I have Autocad 2004 and Solidworks 2003, but I haven't really messed with either. I'll try and take a look at it. People are accomplishing this somehow though, and have been for awhile now, so there must be something we are missing.
Also, I think I found why this whole thing is confusing us: Ackerman steering
I also read this guys thread and it looks like that if I run the behind the axle steering(the opposite of his) i would get better ackerman angles and therefore a better scrub radius!!! Also, I think I'm just going to get the 10" ram anyways since they can set the stops internally. I need to give this hydraulic steering guru over at pirate a call tomorrow. He has quite the reputation for squaring people away.
The mailman came today bearing gifts;Do;:D:dan_ban::D;Do;
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1046.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1045.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1044.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1043.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1042.JPG
These things are ultra beef, and are literally bullet proof:
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...est/index.html
The covers are the last one in the shootout.:bomb::bomb::bomb::bomb::bomb::bomb:
WOW!!!!!!
:eek::drool2:
Yeah dude, you'll be making dust outta rocks with those! DAYUM.
Bart
Maybe this thread should be titled "Ascinder's 3 Ton VX"!
At least it seems you'll have a low CG... :)
Gotta any updates for us, Beau? :D
I'm pretty sure he does...:pQuote:
Originally Posted by ZEUS
Bart
Aside from the Atlas, that's pretty close to what I'm running. Once done, This powertrain will be nigh indestructable. At this point, I'm more worried about twisting the frame of the VX than anything else. BTW, progress pics inbound:supercoolQuote:
So lately I have been trying to sort out loose ends and put out little fires on my VX build. I have been focusing my energy on the fuel system and all its inherent complications. At first glance a fuel system seems simple. Gas just has to make it from the tank to the engine right? Wrong. Not even touching on emissions systems, the fuel setup is a veritable nightmare with a steep learning curve and a lot of pitfalls. I'm about to lay some of them out here:
Putting in a new tank, there are a lot of considerations if you are looking at things from a long term completed perspective. What I mean is that I like to step back from whatever I'm working on and think: "Hmm I wish would have thought of that when I was first building this!", and then build it that way in the first place. A good way to do this if you're lazy like I am is to listen to and learn from the regrets/observation of others who have gone before you. I like to listen to desert racers and rock crawlers because not only have they been there, done that, but their vehicles end up in the weirdest situations imaginable under the most severe conditions. So here we go.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1078.JPG
These are a pair of Sprague aircraft accumulators. They hold 50 cubic inches of fluid each and have a floating aluminum o-ringed "puck" inside that has pressurized air on one side and the fluid on the other. They act as an emergency reservoir of whatever fluid they are set up for. If/when the system looses pressure the compressed air acts as a spring and forces the fluid back into the system. These things are no joke. They are good for 3000 psi worth of pressure and can save you from a spun engine bearing when you are off camber, or from losing your steering if you blow a line, or even from fuel starvation when your booster pump out sucks your supply pump. But I'll get to all that....
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1083.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1084.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1086.JPG
Apart from being fun to look at, the engine has been coming along too. I have installed a lot of components lately that will go unmentioned in this post, but are time eaters that have hassled me at every turn. The original fuel system was returnless, meaning that the fuel pump just supplies pressurized fuel to the rail and it stays there until the engine sucks it down. Well, that's evidently good for emissions, but bad for an engine running hot and hard in the desert heat. Basically the fuel gets heated up by the pump (which relies on the fuel to keep it cool) and then gets sent to the rail where ambient engine heat causes it to vaporize and lock up the system. At the king of the hammers race they were eating fuel pumps and vapor locking engines like crazy. So the fixes were to run a return style system instead which circulates the fuel out of the rails and back into the tank where it has a chance to cool. So I swapped over to billet fuel rails that enable this and a fuel pressure regulator at the engine instead of inside the tank. I also installed 50 lb./HR injectors in place of the stock 28 lb. The fuel pressure regulator is adjustable to allow me to dial in the Bosch"044" racing pumps’ output to usable levels. It is also vacuum sensitive so it automatically lowers output at lower rpms and raises it at higher ones. I also have an emergency ace in the hole. I got a fuel cooler block that is powered by CO2. Basically, the fuel runs through it and the CO2 runs through it parallel and chills the fuel. Gimmicky, but effective.
Fuel pressure regulator
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1102.JPG
Bosch"044" rally pump next to the stock VX pump
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1106.JPG
Cry02 fuel cooler
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1100.JPG
So all of this is getting stuffed into the tank mentioned earlier in this thread, which BTW is absolutely awesome in its construction. The steel is THICK. This tank holds six less gallons than the stock VX tank, but is much heavier. The welds are also nearly seamless and are a work of art.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1122.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1124.JPG
There will be a 100 micron billet inline filter just outside of the tank before the pump. It has a stainless steel element that is cleanable and replaceable. Just before the fuel rails is a large 10 micron fuel canister.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1104.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1105.JPG
In addition to using the stock Vehicross fuel filling port for normal fueling, I picked up an aluminum filler port that will be mounted to the other side of the tank and used for Jerry can refills (which are a PITA on the stock opening). The new port is almost three inches across at the port and around seven or eight inches at the flange, and has a rollover/slosh valve built in.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1103.JPG
One of the other fuel issues people have is that typical racers use fuel cells which are basically a steel box with a rubber bladder inside which holds the fuel. The problem comes in when your fuel is going all over the place inside and sloshing everywhere. It is practically impossible to effectively baffle the inside of a rubber bladder, but inherently necessary for obvious reasons. My fuel tank has a single center baffle which I feel while helpful, is not up to the tasks I will demand of it. Many people use fuel cell foam as a baffle, but it inevitably breaks down sooner or later, clogging your fuel pickups or filters, or pumps in the process. Other guys have tried wiffle balls since the PVC they're made out of is fuel resistant. They still tend to break down eventually though due the additives in normal gasoline not to mention ethanol, and plastics shed a kind of slime/gel into the tank which clogs pickups too. I had a great idea though. Since my tank is stainless steel and my fuel line is going to be stainless steel hard-line, why not use these little buggers as an anti slosh measure. 100% stainless, lightweight and affordable. They don't break down and are totally inert to fuel and/or additives.
There are 100 of these in the box
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1108.JPG
Here's one up close:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1109.JPG
To help with the angles and off camber situations of crawling and high G's in the desert, I got three of these snowmobile fuel pickups. They work on the principle of spraying something like water through a screen door, where the moisture gets trapped in the screen. When they are exposed to air the fuel trapped in the screen makes it so the screen sucks shut so your fuel pump isn’t gulping air when you are climbing a steep hill or are on the side of one. Pretty cool and very effective.
http://www.autoperformanceengineerin.../MP_bottom.jpg
The screen is also a 10 micron fuel filter.
I also nabbed a protorque series starter which is smaller, lighter, more powerful, and clockable.
Protorque under stock starter
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1110.JPG
Adjustable mounting
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1111.JPG
The oil filter on the engine was changed to a remote mount setup to increase capacity and accessibility of the oil system. One of the Sprague accumulators will also be plumbed into this system to run as a pre-oiler at startup and accumulator during use.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1125.JPG
I replaced the crank pulley with a 25% underdrive pulley which will give more horsepower, but run all the accessories slower. They make an overdrive pulley for the alternator that I will install here shortly so it spins at normal speed. So what's the point then? Well, I plan on using an industrial equipment hydraulic pump instead of a dinky power steering pump to power the hydraulic ram steering and the hydroboost system. Those pumps don't like high RPM, so I have a big pulley for them and the small underdrive pulley, and presto, everything is happy. Here's a shot of a similar hydroboost setup to what I'm running and a LINK to some info on them:
http://dieselequipment.net/img/pg_9/p_9_100.jpg
Hydroboost brakes beat the snot out of vacuum assist brakes for a great many reasons, and with a cammed motor like mine, they are even more important for good consistent braking over a large rpm range. My hydroboost is on the way and came out of a 2008 GMC Sierra 3500 truck, what can I say, it fits the theme of the build. Also, upgrading the size of all the brakes on the VX makes this a must have mod. Here are a couple pics of said brakes.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1116.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1118.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/PICT1120.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1121.JPG
The first pic is of the rear calipers which are factory rebuilt with new ceramic pads and painted with caliper paint. The second pic is of the front D60 caliper which I had to wire-wheel and strip of all of the paint and crud, then paint. The third pic is of a 14 bolt wheel hub I had to strip down and paint, then press in new wheel studs and brake rotor. Here's what these used to look like:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1113.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/PICT1114.JPG
Wow, wow, wow. I feel like I am watching an episode of "VX Dream Make Over"!!!!! Amazing stuff indeed. I am pretty sure we are all green with envy, and can't wait to have the means to do something like this as well. Thanks for the photos and update, much appreciated :)
Yes. Exactly what he said. Awesome man! :yesb:Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBeast
________
Naruto advice