"Abby somebody" :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Printable View
"Abby somebody" :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Who's Abby Normal?
It's what Igor says to Dr. Frankensteen when he's asked what brain he got from the lab...."I don't know, somebody named Abby Normal"...get it??..AB NORMAL?:laugho::laugho:Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperBoomTurbo
My sarcasam wasn't relayed through the internet. it's 'Algore's' fault.
Anyway, to the subject at hand, I have no idea what the PO used in the 99 astral but it's all still in there after about 1200 miles (except the damn dipstick is ridiculously hard to tell with... Looks like Guinness at every fill-up on the stick but clean on paper. Brilliant!) Since our other two cars get Castrol Syntec 5-50, I'll probably start buying it by the case (Eek! $6 a quart not on sale... Gulp!!)
I tried Mobil 1 in a 20 year old 240sx but it kept eating the stuff at a quart every three months. Royal Purple was worse!!
Anybody dig Castrol for their yahzu?
I'm currently running castrol GTX in mine but gonna be switching to rotella soon
I run Castrol Magnatec 10W40.
Have done in all my petrol powered cars for years.
Never any oil usage in any of them.
PK
new moter about to hit 12,000mi in only 5 months (used to take amlost two years to do that). next oil change im switching to amsoil. when we finaly got all the leaks fixed we havent seen any consumption.
how well does rotella work?
and what weight would you recommend?
I'm switching right now to Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic Diesel oil, 5W40. I'm probably going to do a half and half mix next oil change, and then add Rotella as I burn oil, and then go full Rotella after another 6000 miles or so.
Bart
I'm burning 1/4 every 1,500 miles. I've been using Rotella full synthetic 5/40 for the last few months and I'm burning much less oil that I was before. But I know I also have a leak....
I haven't noticed any issues so far, but I've only owned for 6 months. Previous owner said no problems with this either.
Sometimes it dont use any oil in 1000 miles, other times it'll use a quart in a week. Been like that for 10 years, 150,000 miles.
I am at about 1 per 1000 but I know most is because of a leak. I haven't been able to track it down though..
Mine uses plenty of oil, but it's not very predictable. Countless times I had the oil in hand sure that I would have to add and it was full. Other times I would be sure it's still full and I have to add a good chunk.
That's why you need to check it almost every day. During the warmer months when I'm off work I will check it every single day before heading out. I will never be one of the many owners who lost an engine simply due to low oil.
Check your oil today, check it tomorrow, check it the next day. Check it again. Check it some more. Check it in the morning, check it that night. Check your oil level as often as you possibly can. This point cannot be overstated. Please check your oil level every day.
I checked my oil yesterday and it was full. I didn't drive very far, but today I realized I hadn't checked it yet and I parked in a nice level spot at Walmart and checked my oil when I came out. It was still full. Peace of mind. :yesy:
Nobody has checked their oil more than me and look how far I've gotten just by keeping my oil full. I check it so much I even broke the dipstick from all the flexing.
http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/...g/vx2/1048.jpg
If your dipstick hasn't broken yet, you're not checking your oil enough. ;Dy;
Mark Griffin (a VX lifer) :_steering
LOL mark you are funny !!!
On the serious side i'll back up your statement as to check your oil every single day.
Since i begin working about 50 miles away from my house my odo is running up fast on miles to the point that the horse is already on the 92K numbers
The engine seems to be burning more oil then before i started working that far,i currently use like 1 Qt every week or so.
Rotella have excelent reviews by customers going from ford to dodge/RAM
I personally use rotella 15-w40 but only on the warmer season (spring-summer) due its heavy viscosity it takes longer to warm up in colder months.
If the Boss ever decides to put a sticky @ the top...I wholeheartedly recommend this to be the first...:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by deermagnet
My oil usage is almost identical.
ditto......it'll use nothing for months and thousands of miles. Then it drops a half quart in a hundred miles. Always been that way, and it leaks nothing. Check it like an OCD guy is the only solution I can think ofQuote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
That sounds like condensation building up (water) until it gets hot enough or hits the right condition to "boil" it off. I believe this is fairly common in cars where shorter trips are the norm.
What happens is condensation builds up and replaces oil as it's "used up" or drips. That's what makes it APPEAR to keep a steady level reading. Then, when the conditions get right, water (floating on the surface of the oil in the oilpan) flashes off and gives that sudden drop in reading.
Water must be a lot lighter in Kansas. And oil temps a lot lower...:bgwb:Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
Yeah, noticed early on that my VX was consuming about a quart every 1000 mi. :madgray: Thats been going on for about the last 4 years. However when I checked it last time, a couple weeks ago, only needed 1/2 a quart. :confused:
OMG, its healing itself! :p
Could by that you're driving differently? Different speeds? I noticed that if I keep it at 60 mph or lower, then I don't burn nearly as much oil than if I hit 70 or higher.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddawg
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeckaTrebeka
Possible, but I always thought that would only effect gas mileage? :confused: But no, I drive pretty consistantly.
When i first got my VX the PO said he ran synthetic oil. I ran castrol 5w 30 synthetic. I went through around 2 1/2 quarts in 3,000 miles. I did not change the pvc valve. The last oil change I changed the pvc valve, switched to Valvoline 10w 40 High Mileage non synthetic oil. I have around 1500 miles on it and only used about a 1/2 quart. Not sure if it is the new pvc valve, (old one did rattle like it was not plugged up) or if it is the thicker oil, or if it is because of the high mileage non syn. oil, or the additives int the high mileage blend?
My VX has 120,000 miles on it and has the original engine as far as I know.
I have no problems with it starting parked outside in single digit weather with the thicker oil.
I have long considered the possibility that it is synthetic oil that causes oil burning.
Bart
After discovering the oil useage I swithed to 10W40, not the High Mileage though. Didn't notice any difference. Even a new PVC valve had no effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by FenderBender
Anyway, the multi-grade oil shouldn't give you a problem with the low temp, just don't try that with straight 40W. I did that once when I was a dumb first time car owner. Oh well, it started again in the Spring, lol.
Could be, but I have never used synthetics. Crap, it could get worse? :(Quote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
i dont use synthetic and all mechanics that i have talked to say with this problem synthetic might be a little better but would almost certainely make no difference just cost more for the oil - apparently the structure of the oil makes no difference its how our engine circulate and cool it - if we had no emissions comtrols on this vehicle it might be another story howeverQuote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
Mine just recently started consuming oil.
I have an idea...
There is an engine flush product on the market that is basically a solvent that you add to the crankcase will full oil level.
You run it at idle for a few minutes, then drain it and change the filter and oil.
It's intended to remove sludge and other build-up.
Wouldn't this help clear the oil drain holes on the pistons, since that is the culprit anyway?
Thoughts?
Here is a link:
http://www.eastwood.com/fast-motor-f...FZGiPAod8SwAHA
I like the idea, but I would trust one of the BG products first. They have a few that are listed to do the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet75
Doesn't the stuff many forum members say they've used (Seafoam and a Amsoil Engine flush) do the same thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
I've used Seafoam once and the Amsoil once.
:_confused..:_wrench:
I've used seafoam every 2-3 oil changes(as a crank case solvent, before draining the old oil) for most of Suzy's career as my daily pony...she still likes about 3/4 of a quart every 1000, whether it be lead foot'n around back & forth to work, all hiway to & from Moab, or grunting up & down trails...:_confused
She likes 1.5 qt every 2000...so...basically 2 qt between changes.
drain back holes in rings are supposed to be lacking in some VX engines; I thought it was limited to 1999 versions but from the poll looks like not
when my vx was using a lot of oil it was the pcv valve. I had put a new pcv valve in and used 2 qts in 1000 miles. got rid of the pcv valve by plugging the hose and putting a filter on the valve cover. went back to 1 qt every 3000 . with mobil 1 synthetic. there is no baffle in the valve cover and if the pcv valve sticks open it will suck oil and burn it . you will not notice it because the cat will burn it and no smoke will show in the exhaust. shawn
my 99 astral burns so much oil I think they thing just wants to regulate it's oil changes!
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyErik
Actually there is a baffle. A metal plate runs almost the full length of the left valve cover. But yer 1/2 right. There's no baffle on the right side so if you leave your oil fill cap off by accident, you'll get a nice rust protective coating of oil all over your engine compartment.Quote:
Originally Posted by psychos2
I've also removed the PCV but I used an oil catch can instead of the filter thinggy you described.
i really want to try the breather or catch can method but i have one thing stopping me - i dont understand how either would be helping - if the burnt oil is going out the breather instead of into and out of the exhaust, you are still losing oil and i would figure you would need to clean the breather filter constantly - the catch can is doing the same thing as the breather but catching in in a canister which if not recirculated you are still essentially losing that oil - i know i must be wrong but im too stupid to figure out where
yer not wrong ... just evil:)
Our biggest problem is the oil drain holes in the rings. Nothing is going to fix that other than an overhaul. You can minimize the problem though by adding a detergent just before every other oil change ... basically just keeping the insufficient holes operating as best they can.
Another problem is the PCV valve. It gets clogged so easy & that ain't good. The vent filter or the oil catch can merely replaces that valve with sumpn that doesn't get clogged so easy. In my case I installed the catch can alla way over at the airbox. This gave me a fairly long (& uphill) run on the hose coming from the valve cover (where the PCV usta be mounted). I'm fairly certain that it's allowing much of the vaporized oil in those gases to condensate on the inside of the hose & trickle back down into the valve cover. That's why I'm not collecting much if any oil in my catch can.
so with the canister it actually IS reusing some of the oil that would have been lost - that makes sense - im more likely to try the breather first but that seems like it would just vent the burnt oil into the engine bay instead of out the exhaust... then again my old firebird had a breather on the valve cover and it never burnt a spec of oil
side note - everytime i go to advanced auto the guys there want to talk about the vx - same 3 guys - they all have tuner cars and some of them are models ive never heard of or weird imports that are called something different across the oceans - they keep telling me to basically dismantle the entire emissions system on the vx - apparently these guys dont use any type of egr or pcv or even cat converters - they say not only does it help with stupid stuff like oil burn but you also usually get dramatic performance gains without the emissions crap - if i keep the vx and continue to live in indiana where emissions are not regulated on vehicles i might look into this
Not on purpose ... but that seems to be the way it worked out.Quote:
Originally Posted by evillecutter
Emissions removal: Save the parts you remove. You know how lawmakers like to change stuff on you at the least convenient moment.