eh, I'm alright with it.
Time is the real issue though.
It sure would be nice if it was something easy.
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eh, I'm alright with it.
Time is the real issue though.
It sure would be nice if it was something easy.
I have also read this many times on this board, but I had the feeling that all ABS units are sealed. In the AUDI/VW's case, they require careful prying open of the the case, and slicing through the sealant/glue that holds it together. I won't know until I do it, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by rsteinmetz70112
The sporadic activation did feel to me as an obvious loose connection, as computer-boards don't suddenly work at lower temperatures if they have an internal de-lamination or they need to be re-balled.
A blown capacitor reduces capacitance to 4% of the original value, and this value would be even lower at low temperature, according to this page on ceramic caps (http://www.niccomp.com/Products/TC_Ceramics.pdf).
I still am not sure why everyone wants to fix this when the ABS on the VX for whatever reason actually increases braking distance.
X2Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBeast
I'll be towing that ^&%&*% trailer home tonight with the VX. Hope I have better luck w/o ABS than I did wit.
Pull a 4000 lb trailer on a winding mountain road after a hard rain and you'll understand!Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBeast
Actually your argument could be said of the ABS on just about any vehicle. If you're a skilled driver who can constantly brake at the point of incipient slide and you're on clean pavement, you can best the results of most ABS systems. In the real world, however, people are getting old, driving skills aren't what they used to be, feet are numb from pinched nerves, diabetes, etc. and there's gravel washed across the road - usually in the middle of a turn. ABS can make the difference between jack-knifing into oncoming traffic or going around the turn.
Joseph, that repair video shows a Bosch 5.3 which is a four channel module. We've got the Bosch 5.4 which, unfortunately, is a three channel model. (How about that logical German nomenclature, eh?) Some Troopers use the 5.3 but some have a 4 channel. The 5.4 is also found in the Dodge Durango & Dakota, mid 00's Ford F-150, late 90's SAABs and a bunch of other not-so-sporty cars. (Wait... is a Buick Lacrosse sporty?) I don't think you're supposed to use a 5.4 module from another vehicle though. Supposedly they're vehicle specific - programmed according to vehicle mass, dynamics, braking system, etc.
If you try the repair yourself and it turns out it's your "silver" bus wires, good luck soldering those and having the joint last! I know you probably meant silver in color but in case you meant silver metal... well... unfortunately that's not the case. Those bus wires are actually aluminum. No idea why they would use a wire made of material known to work harden, fatigue and crack in an environment subject to heat cycling and vibration but that's what they did and apparently that's the most common failure point in these units. Go figure...
When my ABS started flashing a Code 43, I thought briefly about Dremeling it open and repairing it myself but then I found out that might involve soldering aluminum and bailed on the idea real quick. Decided rather than risk ruining the unit with my jiggly 35W chisel and cataract addled eyes I'd to leave it to a pro who's got the proper flux, a skinny tip - and plenty of practice on other people's units! The hair-fine gold wires on the circuit board are allegedly another common failure point. No special flux needed for that - just plain old rosin core, good eyes and a steady hand.
On my unit, the power busses were good but a pad for a wire serving the FR solenoid had pulled completely loose from the board. The eBay ABS repair guy in Charlottesville, VA (Matt) fixed it and I would highly recommend him - good communication and blazing fast service. I think he normally charges $99 if you purchase service through his website (cheapabs.com) but check eBay and he's usually running an $85 auction for the same service. The title will say Bosch 5.3 for an Audi A4 or A6 if I recall - but he'll do a Bosch 5.4 for the same price. And that includes shipping the unit back to you. Can't beat it. Five minutes to take the unit off, ten to box it, slap a label and some stamps on it and put it in the mailbox and five minutes to re-install the unit. Quickest, easiest fix ever...
And yeah - you send just the electronic control module not the pump/hydraulics. You can drive the vehicle without the module but expect a little more tire scrubbing/chirping in parking lots and other slow speed/tight turn situations. Oh and you won't have ABS. :bgwo:
BTW, there's no harm in it but you really don't have to force the ABS to function every once in a while to "keep it all loose" because the solenoids and the pump get cycled during a system test every time you start and drive the vehicle.
Awesome explanation and info SlowPro! :thumbup:
sorry to open a months-old thread, but has anyone tried the soldering? I now have light on intermittently. Here's a question: I want to keep the thing on the road.If I separate the module from the rest, will brake fluid spew? I want to try the soldering but not if I am going to be bleeding brakes at night.
thanks, all!
No, nothing will spew out at you. Here's what it looks like with module separated:Quote:
Originally Posted by xcelr8
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...nit_inside.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...alve_block.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...ech310_001.jpg
As always, thank you Kat! I can't believe at 65,000 miles this thing is broken. Bosch usually makes stuff pretty good...I'm pretty surprised. I know it's 13 years old, but nonethelsess...should still be good.
Have you seen the guy on ebay that repairs the ABS modules for $99?
Here's a few posts on it.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...s+ebay+rebuild
VT_Maverick had his done back in May by this guy and it apparently works as new. A new ABS unit is like $2,000 - $3,000 :freek::freek:
Yup, $99 and works like a charm. Don't waste your time!
So is this for real? For $99 I can have ABS again? I'm currently on my 2nd used module.
My understanding is that the problem is pretty simple for an electronics engineer with the appropriate equipment and probably takes less than an hour to fix. But obviously dealerships and other shops don't have that kind of know-how so the only thing Isuzu can do is provide full replacements.
If you check out the company's website you'll find that they repair all kinds of car electronics. Apparently they've found a niche. :thumbup:
Read post #19 from thread I attached above:Quote:
Originally Posted by tysamigo
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...3&postcount=19
I wrote to the ebay guy (resk123) that wrote that today to ask him some more questions...awaiting reply.
I've also written to the ebay REBUILD guy 3 times now, with pics, sent these latest pics of the innerds,
and referenced the Isuzu Workshop Manual, page 5A-5 which says this:
General Service Precautions
The following are general precautions which should be
observed when servicing and diagnosing the Anti-lock
Brake System and/or other vehicle systems. Failure to
observe these precautions may result in Anti-lock Brake
System damage.
The EHCU and valve block connectors should never
be connected or disconnected with the ignition “ON” .
EHCU of the Anti-lock Brake System are not
separately serviceable and must be replaced as
assemblies. Do not disassemble any component
which is designated as non-serviceable in this
Section.
...here's his response today:
Hi Sue,
We have several thousand of this same type abs Module, This Design is used on many other Makes and Model Automobiles, We will have no problem rebuilding this abs Module.
Thank You
Don
I have a "broken" one that I should send to him.
I currently have 3. One installed, one backup, and one that needs to be fixed.
I will just keep cycling them :)
This is good info, and I'm glad there is a reasonable fix. I guess I now know why I found the abs light bulb in the glove box:(
I kind of did what you did Jon,...I'd already seen the guy on ebay for quite a while, so I bought a dead one from a VXer with plans to get it fixed by that guy if my current one ever died.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
Interesting side note.....when Mav was preparing for his major driving trip last May, his ABS light was on, and he recalled I had a dead unit.
He had a very short amount of time so he asked me to send my unit to the ebay guy right away, have him ship it to Mav when finished.
Then Mav got that one installed, and gave me his dead unit when we met in Moab.
....and I still have the dead unit sitting in the garage...I figure I'll get it fixed by this guy if/when mine goes. Can't see any reason to fix it now.
Thanks again Sue! That last week before leaving for Moab was a whirlwind for sure, I think I paid at least half of the repair cost in priority shipping to get it to my mechanic two days before we were set to leave. Thank goodness it worked on the first try!
No one in here mentions connectors. I had problems with the TOD light coming on. Driving symptom was felt when cranking wheels almost to stop while moving, as though driving over speed bump or wheels out of round. Dealer diagnosed it as the TOD wiring harness. $1400 for the harness plus labor. I read online that it may be the connector and to clean them. That's what I did and it cured the problem. So now my ABS light comes on solid while driving. Stop, turn off ignition, restart, no light. So going to clean connectors. I'll let you know if that works for the ABS.
Great idea...I'll do this before anything else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddawg
This part also malfunctioned on my VX last year and needed to be replaced. I went online and found a Newer Replacement than my 2001 at a Salvage Yard on Long Island. I discovered that the Isuzu OEM part is Exactly the SAME for I think the Trooper or Rodeo maybe Both! Merlin could explain. Took a Few Minutes to Install by my Mechanic and it works like a Charm ever since !
good call. BTW: The cleaning of terminals did NOT work for me, though oddly, after cleaning the light did not come on for like 20 miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALC1717
Saturday I investigate soldering.
Before soldering, try a conductive grease on the terminals.Quote:
Originally Posted by xcelr8
OK, this is what I did. I opened mine and cut thru some wires that are laser soldered...thinner than a hair. My neighbor who works on computer soldering could not fix. I searched and came up with a Dodge Durango 4x4 module that looked exact. Took a chance, and it fit and works perfect. 100. Here's thread detailing.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=23339