I did the pin bendy thang & the fuse pully thang. Still had the light so I just pulled the dash cluster & removed the bulb. It's about a 20 minute job with just a phillips screwdriver.
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I did the pin bendy thang & the fuse pully thang. Still had the light so I just pulled the dash cluster & removed the bulb. It's about a 20 minute job with just a phillips screwdriver.
The fuze is labeled on the fuze box cover under the hood. There will be 2 ABS locations (1 fuze & 1 fuzable link). You'll be able to figger it out when you check.
I can not.
JK, I've been thinking about pulling the TOD check lite anyway. I'll try to take pix of the process this weekend.
No but since I changed my rotors it has been on.........
So my issue is a bit different. My ABS Light is on all the time EXCEPT when temperatures are about 10 degrees or below. When the light goes out, the ABS works. After the car warms up or the temperatures warm up, the light comes on and the ABS stops working.
What would that be an indication of?
Thanks
I Had Purchased A Used ABS Module For My 2001 VX Last Year For $80. I Worked Well For Over 1 Year But Eventually It Went Bad And The ABS Light Was Activated And The Scan Showed A Trouble Code Problem. I Did Some Research Online And Found A Rebuilt ABS Unit By Automotive Scientific In Rogersville Tennessee (423) 921-9085 With A LIFETIME WARRANTY For $229 I Received The Rebuilt ABS Unit But It Was Only The Black Plastic Brain Part. Installation Took 10 Minutes Because I Did Not Have To Bleed The Brakes. The Trouble Code Was Clear And Hopefully The End Of My ABS Issue ! This Was Sept 12Th. So Far So Good! It Is Worth To Spend A Little More For Peace Of Mind. To Install Another Used ABS Module For $100 Did Not Make Sense and Gamble How Long It Will Last !
HOLY MOLY Al! We've been talking about and using that company for a few years now, and buying it thru ebay is only $49 with lifetime warranty - - seriously, it's the same company and the same repair and warranty - for $49. I've sent two modules to him so far. And they paying shipping too.
Start reading this thread at about post #44. We've had lots of discussions on the ABS failure, and found a great option - Repair exisiting module with lifetime warranty for $49!!
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=dodge+abs
Here's the current ebay listing: (Doesn't matter that it says Trooper - he fixes the VX one under this too).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110784352777...84.m1438.l2649
that ebay link is not currently active
The other link doesn't work either! :p
I was going to read up and see if I could find the exchange hand-off that was started. Wasn't there an extra unit that started a VXInfo supply chain hand-off on this?
Do I recall reading it's undriveable until the module comes back?
I know Jamas was great enough to help me with the exchange hand off, but I don't think anyone else jumped in at the time. One issue we had was they want the vin number of the vehicle that the unit is going on, so we did some creative shipping (I filled out the form and had Jamas send it with his unit, then he filled out the form and I sent it with my unit). He was a great help for me and I hope you can find someone else to do the same for you. It has been almost 10 months and I haven't had any sign of an issue since. If you search for ABS module you will see one titled "2005 Durango ABS control module fits" that is the one where we discuss the hand off.
I never tried driving without the unit since I didn't have to remove mine, but since you are disconnecting several lines I would not suggest it.
I agree. That whole "round robin" process seemed to work nicely so no one had to be without an ABS unit while one was getting repaired. I had an extra broken abs unit so I was the start and the finish of the process. I am more than happy to start that process again. However, I must first install the repaired module so that I will have another broken one to send in.
I fixed the vehicross.info link above.
It's the thread where the round robin was discussed.
Here it is again.
Post #69 has the instructions on how to fill out the form and get it started.
Note -you have to fill it out as if it came out of the buyer's VX.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=dodge+abs
and here's the ebay link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110784352777...84.m1438.l2649
Ebay price is up to about $69.00.
I called today and they told me since our vehicle was not listed on Ebay it would be $99.
The instructions that they gave me were to fill out the R&R form and send the module to them. Once received they would call me for payment.
Anyone else have an issue like this?
Screw that, say you have a Trooper and get in for $69.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110784352777
I had my ABS rebuilt by by automotive scientific inc (ppl. behind that ebay link) and got to test it last weekend in wet snow / slush up in Tahoe. Works exactly as expected, also looks like brand new. I purchased Trooper listing, but called them up to make sure it was the right thing to do. Payed 69$ and shipping to them, return shipping was free.
Mine looks great, but I have STILL not installed it. I will stop procrastinating tomorrow.
I think that this has been asked before, but I can't find (or remember) the answer; is it possible to drive the VX without the ABS controller installed? My ABS light has decided to remain on (was intermittent) so I might need to have mine re-built.
Here's the link we're we discussed all this in much more detail.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ht=durango+abs
Since I talked to the guy several times, I'll make contact with him and explain it's the VX group again, and see if I can get him to the $69.
Earl, hold on until I can reach him, and remind him of our several emails AND his confirmation that the charge was the same for the Trooper OR the VX.
Thanks Sue.
For anyone who has removed the electronics, but not the mechanics:
How did you get enough slack in the brake lines to get the units apart without bending the lines?
Love to do it this way so I won't need to bleed the brakes.
OK, talked to the guy at ASI, he'll honor the Trooper price for the VX. You can just purchase the Trooper listing and it will all work out fine. :thumbup:
Dear purple.kat1,
Hello,
Yes we will honor the ebay price. Please purchase through ebay to insure your get that special price. Thank you for your business.
ASI
- ate1234
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110784352777...S:1123&vxp=mtr
.
As always, YOU ROCK SUE!! :_beer:
Just in case you'd like to remove your ABS bulb whilst waiting for the new control module, here's a simple write up I did on the process.
T4B to the rescue! Anybody wonder what makes this forum so great?? :dance: :_steering
Removed and shipped today...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:
Thanks for all of the collective help...gotta love this forum!
Received the part back today...
Hooked it up and NO MORE LIGHT and the ABS works as it should. We got a few inches of snow this week and the shady part of my neighborhood was a great testing spot.
I would recommend the service discussed in this thread to anyone wanting to get their ABS groove back on...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:
Also as a note I did drive the VX with the electronic portion of the ABS removed and it was awful. Brakes locked up on tight turns ( think in/out of a parking space and riding the brake) and was very jerky...:(
This is really strange to me. Shouldn't the braking performance be the same with a non-functioning ABS controller and no controller? They way I think it works is you apply force to the brake pedal providing hydraulic pressure to all four brake calipers. When wheel slippage is detected the ABS controller rapidly opens and closes the solenoid associated with that wheel effectively pulsing the hydraulic pressure to that caliper. Having the ABS controller removed should provide normal non-abs braking. Right? Could there be another issue with the brakes that M H VX is experiencing?
OK so about one month later and two weekends in conditions where ABS is actually helpful (snow / slush / ice) up at Tahoe ABS module repaired by ASI went bad again. I am sure they will fix it for me free but it takes time / money to pull it out and esoecially reinstall since I need to bleed brakes. Is there a way to pull black part of it without touching break lines?
Yes, this is what I did.
Just loosen it from the bracket and loosen the brakelines mounted on the fender well and the firewall. Be careful or you will break the plastic retainers that hold the brake lines in place.
Gently move it up, so as not to crimp any brake lines and remove the six torx screws and the black module. You would have already removed the two electrical connections. Mount the silver box back into the bracket.
I drove mine with the black box removed and it drove terrible when braking and turning in tight places like parking spots or getting into my garage.
Just be careful and you'll be fine...:bgwb::bwgy::smilewink:bgwo:
How do you disconnect the electrical plug under the harness connector? I was advised to press the pin that keeps the plug in place with a flat head screwdriver. However, can't seem to find by feel the release pin. I don't want to break the plug or anything else. I have not been able to see enough of the plug to figure out how to release a pin or whatever.
Anyone know of a link to an image of the plug?
Mile High VX, when you said "loosen" the brake lines what did you do?
TIA.
The lines are held in place on the firewall and fender by a plastic holder that the lines snap into. You need to get them free. These plastic pieces will break easily. Spray them down with WD-40 and be gentle. Once free from the holder you'll have enough slack to pull the assembly up to remove the electronic piece from the brake module.
Shortened a T20 torque screwdriver to reach the "hidden" 6th torque screw. It worked to loosen that near impossible to reach spot. All 6 screws are ready to be removed. However, still haven't managed to remove that electrical plug. I expect I'm going to be embarrassed when I eventually see how easy it should have been to unplug. The wire to the plug has no play so I cannot disconnect the module and access the plug even by loosening the brake lines.
Alltech said they could remove the module in less than 30 minutes, but they would not release my VX back to me until they installed the repaired module due to liability concerns. If I haven't figured out how to unplug that electrical plug by the end of tomorrow I will concede defeat, yet again, on another VX DIY project.:mado: