By the way Bart if you buy from rocky road you want the medium duty. They are the ones I got. OME 912's
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By the way Bart if you buy from rocky road you want the medium duty. They are the ones I got. OME 912's
:laughing:
Oh I can't wait for some hot scissoring with you guys in May!!
Bart
OK, so gearing up. On deck to get ordered are the OME rear springs. Now, Rocky-road lists both a medium duty and heavy duty for $66.02. I assume the price is for one spring. The prices are the same for both. Clint: you said you ordered the medium duty, correct? Anyone else care to comment here? I am going to contact Rocky-road for a little clarification, too.
Also, if I order the OME shocks for the front and rear, should I notice a softer ride? Any opinions here?
Also, I plan to order the Boot kit:
http://www.independent4x.com/item.jh...0&PRID=1081216
Also, I am considering this kit:
http://www.independent4x.com/item.jh...0&PRID=1221569
Is anyone running the above brake line upgrade? Opinions? If I order this, I will probably have a brake shop install.
Thanks - Bart
Probably not, unless you already have stiff aftermarket shocks...In my experience (Troopers, not VXs BTW) OME Nitrochargers are firmer than the stock shocks, but are not harsh. I think they are outstanding shocks, ruggedly built, and controlled ride under all circumstances on and off road (I have them on my Trooper). And more control is important if you get bigger/heavier tires, too.
As a general rule, lifting the front via torsion bar adjustment tends to make the ride harsher due to the increasingly vertical angles of the control arms. But at 2" lift you probably won't notice that much at all, it is much more noticable beyond 3" lift.
Regarding the coils, the 912s are firmer and carry loads better than stock Trooper coils, but their progressive rate keeps them riding nice. As for the 919 heavy duty coils, consider that a softer coil helps with axle articulation off road. So I recommend the 912s unless you carry around your entire tool collection like Ldub.
That's what I have on if you want to see it in person. It's (very)easy to install, it's the bleeding that takes the time. I also used this:Quote:
Also, I am considering this kit:
http://www.independent4x.com/item.jh...0&PRID=1221569
Is anyone running the above brake line upgrade? Opinions? If I order this, I will probably have a brake shop install.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
and this:
http://www.rotorsandpads.com/AteSupe...SUPERBLUE.aspx
I agree with etlsport on the system being a bit leaky, but once you tighten down all the lines and get that infernal right rear clip seated right it's fine.
I just ordered the 912s!
Bart
Well, they (rockyroad dudes) were fast on the e-mail replies but I ordered on Feb 28th, and they were delivered March 21st. But they had none on hand and were waiting on a truck or something.
The extended bumpstops will hopefully keep the wider larger tires from rubbing the inside fender or outside cladding. Basically under flexing the larger tires would hit and rub on stuff and the extended bumpstops will stop them on up travel before the tires can hit and rub anything, hopefully. Zeus and others have done this and worked well.
Energy Suspension Part # 9.9104R (for red ones) - "Designed with a large reinforced metal plate welded to a mounting plate and molded-in. 4 1/2" tall,
2 1/2" wide. 2 per set" Evidently if you do this all you have to do is take off the old bumpstop and mount and seperate the two so you can use the stock mount with the new bumpstop. Zeus has photos of this: http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...37/ppuser/1999
Yeah I was planning on doing what LDub did with the 33x12.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers, on 20x8.5" Zinik Z26 (Chrome with black insert). I have been running 285/60-18 with no lift and if I was going to stay with the stock rims, which I talk myself out of everyday, I was going to go with 285/65-18 Nitto Terra Grapplers. I just know myself well enough that if I don't go big, I will go home and wish I did. Go big or go home (and order bigger).....
After you posted this, I went and got some. By "seperate" you mean have to cut off some, but not all of the factory stops. If you look at Zeus' pic, you can see that about 1" of the factory stop remains. I am going to use some square 2" steel tubing instead, I think it'll support it better. Just an FYI, I was expecting 1 1/2" longer bumpstops:(.Quote:
Energy Suspension Part # 9.9104R (for red ones) - "Designed with a large reinforced metal plate welded to a mounting plate and molded-in. 4 1/2" tall,
2 1/2" wide. 2 per set" Evidently if you do this all you have to do is take off the old bumpstop and mount and seperate the two so you can use the stock mount with the new bumpstop. Zeus has photos of this: http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...37/ppuser/1999
Dude totally sorry, I was just looking at that myself, as I just picked them up from 4 wheels parts myself. Yeah it does look like he used some of the old bumpstops..... Hmmm..... I am sure we will figure something out. 2" steel tubing as a spacer? Are you going to use the new bumpstops or take them back?
Wassup. The factory bumpstop mount works great for my poly bumper setup. I have caught air and the poly bumpers absorb better than the stock rubbers and the factory mount holds up just fine. The length of the bumpers when mounted this way seems perfect to me.
I went with 2.5" 1/4" wall square tubing(there's no kill like overkill:p) Which I don't recommend since most people are lifted this high so 2.5" won't clear. it was easy to do($10 in steel and drilling six holes plus some bedliner). If you go with smaller tubing, you would be advised to find a way to drill/mill some access holes so you can get a socket through. For anyone who hasn't put these on, how much clearance do you have between the bottom of your stops and your axle? What about you Zeus? Mine seems a little on the smallish side( good for articulation, bad for load carrying) so I'd like to know what is the normal clearance(non lifted). Here's what I got:
[IMG]http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...Poly_bumps.jpg[/IMG]
Maybe quarter-half an inch less than you have
Oh, cool then, I have been so used to the gap being several inches that it seemed really tight, but if it's back close to stock, that's great.
Yessir, I tried to keep the gap about the same because I think the rear snubbers help to reduce the body roll and therefore help in the handling dept. So mine look about like yours. They kick up a little on some speed bumps so I just go faster to smooth it out! :)
So with the help of CrnCnn and Ascinder, I got lifted this week (thanks guys). OME 912s in the rear and about 9 or so cranks on my torsion bars to level out the front end. So far, I notice a big difference in rear end cushyness, which is nice.
Now, is this really all I need to do? Or is this type of "poor man's lift" not very good for longevity? I mean, would it be a good idea to replace my shocks all around? Will my torsion bars eventually sag out? I didn't do the ball joint flip. I'm getting new meat on Saturday and I will see if they have trouble with the alignment. If they can't get things straight, then I guess I will flip them.
Anyway, just looking for some commentary from everyone. What are the real world consequences I should be concerned about? I only want the best for my VX, and I would like to do all I can over the next week.
Bart
#9.9104 from Energy Suspension, they come in black or red. Most local 4x4 shops should be able to get them in pretty quickly for ya. I could even pick some up for you here at 4 Wheel Parts and we can install them in Moab if you want. You might have 4 Wheel Parts in Reno too. http://www.4wheelparts.com/stores/store-locator.aspx
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=9.9104
there is a totally off road here that may have them Bart. maybe even Summit
i ordered mine from summit (shipped from ohio), black ones they had in stock, red were back ordered by a few weeks
So I am now lifted and the new meat is on. The VX looks TOTALLY SICK now and Linda is ready to KILL me. :)
While the new meats were getting mounted, I had the tire shop remove my R1 pads and put on my stock pads (keeping the R1 drilled/slotted rotors). WOW. What a difference. No more mushy braking. I am going to update the R1 thread I posted a while back with this new info.
Bart
Do I have to ask??? PICTURES!