Use the highest octane UNLEADED gas. Lead poisons O² sensors, and will clog the cat. Leaded gas also causes most fuel injected cars to run much richer.
John C.
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Use the highest octane UNLEADED gas. Lead poisons O² sensors, and will clog the cat. Leaded gas also causes most fuel injected cars to run much richer.
John C.
Thanks for the input guys, so in 2-3 weeks I will go back out there and try some 112 out, see what it will do. I also need to find a new intake since I am still running the stock box from fender, and I think that is the main performance restrictor right now.
Try each of them ...
... too much octane can actually slow you down.
Higher octane does work better in high compression engines... however you risk pre-ignition and knocking.
Too high an octane WILL slow you down. In addition to preventing pre- ignition, higher octane fuels burn slower and more completely. Too much octane for the amount of compression or boost, and the fuel can’t burn completely and thus can’t give off all of the potential energy. See any race fuel site such as Sunoco, VP or Howell for more details.
Our vehicles can benefit from about a 50/50 blend of 93 and 110 or 112 unleaded IF using a SC or NOS - the computer can and does adjust for this.
Do you actually get into 4th gear before the end of the 1/4 mi?
Did you try leaving it in 3rd and making a pass?
Tone, is high 15s the theoretical best with his setup?
According to the dyno chart on our engine (or perhaps a similar 2.5L in an Axiom) the SC gives you 45 hp ($70-90 per horse [after installation] !). Given a stocker should run around a 17.2 e.t., a car with 45 more horses should run about 16.0 e.t.Quote:
Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
is high 15s the theoretical best with his setup?
Those are mathematical equations, assuming the same weight, tires, barometric pressure, altitude, etc.
So, since he was running 16.7 stock and 16.6 with PV and Interceptor then the s/c is only good for .5 in the 1/4?:(
Y'all seem to forget how heavy the VX is... and that we are running a fairly well tuned 6-cyl.
To slice a whole second (and then some) off of any vehicle's 1/4 mi. with these upgrades, and still have it streetable (and off-roadable) is still impressive.
Just out of curiosity, does anyone have 0-60 and 0-100 times before and after their interceptor/SC/PV/K&N mods?
Not the 0-60, but the e.t.'s are posted here. For Alaska, the muffler didn't drop his time even by a tenth.
Guess that brings us back to the old claim:
The Jargon Dictionary entry:
http://info.astrian.net/jargon/terms..._may_vary.html
Your mileage may vary
Your mileage may vary cav. [from the standard disclaimer attached to EPA mileage ratings by American car manufacturers] 1. A ritual warning often found in Unix freeware distributions. Translates roughly as "Hey, I tried to write this portably, but who knows what'll happen on your system?" 2. More generally, a qualifier attached to advice. "I find that sending flowers works well, but your mileage may vary."
Thanx for all the responses, now for my bit.
Yes the VX kicks into 4th before the end and it just won't accel once it hits it.
As for the gas I was planning on using a half tank 92 and a half to 1/4 tank of 112. I have tried to leave it in 3rd but it will still kick into 4th for some reason. I actually haven't put it in 3rd with the SC yet, maybe it will stay in 3rd for longer than before?
Spike, I couldn't understand your jargon :confused:
I'm sure that I will hit high 15's once I get to do some more runs, my first few runs are never my best anyway.
Jolly Roger, I have already changed my tires back over to the stock ones, and it made a .12 difference
Heres a question, If I was to disconnect the front drive shaft, will the TOD still be running and take power away from the rear wheels? If so I can install that TOD on/off switch. I also would like to disconnect my rear breaks so I could burn them at the track :D Is there an easy way to disable the rear breaks? There is a guy that takes proffesional pictures out there and I would love to have a picture of my VX burning some rubber!
First, we're not talking about a second, and then some. We're talking about 1/2 of a second, if that much.Quote:
Originally posted by Spike
Y'all seem to forget how heavy the VX is... and that we are running a fairly well tuned 6-cyl.
To slice a whole second (and then some) off of any vehicle's 1/4 mi. with these upgrades, and still have it streetable (and off-roadable) is still impressive.
Second, if I put 3 grand+ into a V-6, 3700 lb. Grand National, rated at 245 hp (stock) , we're cutting off close to or more than 2 seconds . GSCA has a 12 sec./ $ 1000 recipe for thr T-T GN.
Probably not the best comparison considering the G.N. already has a turbo and 3.42 gearing. Just food for thought. I figure the s/c to provide 45 hp @ $66/ horse.
Alaska,
At what rpm does it shift out of 3rd?
DISCLAIMER! I will not be responsible for anyone who kills themselves using the first 2 methods, the information is provided for conversational, theoretical, educational and entertainment purposes only! ;)Quote:
Originally posted by AlaskaVX
If I was to disconnect the front drive shaft, will the TOD still be running and take power away from the rear wheels?
Yes
Is there an easy way to disable the rear breaks?
I would think that after you disable the front drivetrain, a rear only burnout shouldn't be too difficult, since the front brakes should come in before the rears. You should be able to stall or brake torque it. That being said. if you still need less rear brake action...
......AT YOUR OWN RISK!.......
Either remove rear pads and fabricate a bracket to hold the pistons in, ( don't they tech your vehicle before they let you run? They'll flag you if they find out your rear brakes are disabled)
or..
Oil your rear pads for the exhibition. Then clean rotors thoroughly with brake cleaner / replace pads after burnout session.
Warning!
The first 2 methods will diminish your braking effectiveness and should not be used at speeds over 20 M.P.H. or for anything other then exhibition purposes. Do not drive on the street or race the vehicle under these conditions!!!!!!!!!!!
or..
Invest in a line lock to lock/ unlock the front brakes at the push of a button (they're pretty cheap, install will probably cost more than parts) . Makes a good anti-theft device when wired to a constant 12 volt source too.
There is a guy that takes proffesional pictures out there and I would love to have a picture of my VX burning some rubber!
Well, the SC itself costs $3,000. But I doubt most people are installing this themselves, so figure $150-1,050 for installation :D In rough calculations of other mods, that's pretty high. An air intake would be probably $20-40 per hp. The PV promises only $9 per hp.Quote:
Originally posted by IsuZOOM
the SC gives you 45 hp ($70-90 per horse [after installation] !)
Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
I figure the s/c to provide 45 hp @ $66/ horse.
Tell that to this guy;)Quote:
Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
DISCLAIMER! I will not be responsible ...
I think someone needs to slide a small block V-8 under the hood to get the kind of HP needed to blow other vehicles off the road (or if you are off road already, blow them back onto the street)
Hey if you can fit a NorthStar into a Fiero I am sure there is something that can be fabricated to fit.
I'm actually not sure, I'll have to get back to you on thatQuote:
Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
Alaska,
At what rpm does it shift out of 3rd?
Stall or brake torque it? Do you mean powerbrake it? :confused: I feel horrible powerbraking any car, especially my VX!Quote:
I would think that after you disable the front drivetrain, a rear only burnout shouldn't be too difficult, since the front brakes should come in before the rears. You should be able to stall or brake torque it. That being said. if you still need less rear brake action...
So this completely locks the fronts? So I just hit a switch and the fronts are locked and the rears are not touching therefore lots-o-smoke? This sounds like what I'm looking for! Any ideas where to find it? How much knowledge is needed to install it myself? How much money for the setup? How much would ya guesstimate a shop would charge to install?Quote:
Invest in a line lock to lock/ unlock the front brakes at the push of a button (they're pretty cheap, install will probably cost more than parts) . Makes a good anti-theft device when wired to a constant 12 volt source too.
Thanks SGT. BATGUANO, great info! :thumbup:
Hey Spike, BOARZHEAD is actually debating putting a V8 Northstar in there since he is having a lot of problems with the sensors.
Isuzoom, go ahead and get your intake and exhaust, you need to get behind the wheel of a SCed VX and feel the difference, it has sooooooooo much more than it did. It was worth it! Once you hit the 3,500 rpm mark it just starts taking off even when your taking your foot off the gas!
Wow, the SC turns our VX into an AUDI?Quote:
Originally posted by AlaskaVX
Isuzoom, go ahead and get your intake and exhaust, you need to get behind the wheel of a SCed VX and feel the difference, it has sooooooooo much more than it did. It was worth it! Once you hit the 3,500 rpm mark it just starts taking off even when your taking your foot off the gas!
Jer, I didn't see a smilie at the end of your post.;eekb;Quote:
Originally posted by WyrreJ
Wow, the SC turns our VX into an AUDI?
Quote:
Originally posted by AlaskaVX
I'm actually not sure, I'll have to get back to you on that
Stall or brake torque it? Do you mean powerbrake it?
yes. hold the brakes 'till you overcome the stall of the convertor.
So this completely locks the fronts?
Yes, the one's I'm familiar with use a button. When pushed, with the brakes applied it locks the appropriate brake(s) when hit next, it releases the brake(s).
So I just hit a switch and the fronts are locked and the rears are not touching therefore lots-o-smoke?
Yes.
Any ideas where to find it?
Try a speed shop for install. You can probably find the part in the Summit catalogue.
How much knowledge is needed to install it myself?
Can you double-flare tubing?
How much money for the setup?
How much would ya guesstimate a shop would charge to install?
Under 400, I should hope
[/B]
Thanks again SGT. BATGUANO, you have been great help. I'll look around in town and see what I find. Can I double flare tubing hehehe I've never even heard that term before so I think I'll have to say no :).
Wyrejj, well I actually lined up with an Audi and it seemed a little close, up to 3rd gear, but then it was gone. The Audi ran a 15.0 if I remember correctly.
The track is open and I got my first run of the year in. I ran constant 15.8's! I am going to go all out one of these weekends and drop the front drive shaft, hook up TOD on/off switch, and loose some of that weight! BOARZHEAD ran a 16.29 I think, and he just disconnected his TOD and the elbow to the air box. I would be willing to bet I get into the 14's if I run in 2 wheel, without speakers, back seat, and all my guns and crap in the back.
OK well one thing that seems pretty crazy is my 1/8 mile trap speed is 70 and the 1/4 is only 84. It takes me 5 seconds to get from the 1/8 to the 1/4 and I only gain 14mph!
Here is the link to my Time Slip
wow....u broke into the 15s.....tats amazing....gl in gettin to the 14s
________
VOLCANO DIGITAL VAPORIZER
yeh I got a 16.283 at 80.46 mph. Not bad for a stock vx.. I think with all that lift the air just went below me. hahaha. Alan.. Don't forget to go to alaska raceway web site and look at the pics there. your truck was there.
Ha your VX at the strip! I am a little disappointed the times of the VX with the SC and such, I swear mine is faster than that... need to get my butt to the strip to see...
Cool pics...
-Dave
http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/...um=0&adjust=-1
http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/...um=0&adjust=-1
http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/...um=0&adjust=-1
Has anyone ever thought about running 5.38 gears in the VX? This would drop times dramatically for you 1/8 and 1/4 mile racers.
Also, the reason no one really sees an improvement with a disconnected TOD for mileage or acceleration times is because the front hubs are still connected no matter what you do. Install some of the old fashioned "get out and put it in 4wd" hubs. They are readily available for the Trooper, and would allow the front wheels to be free spinning. Then disconnect the TOD so the transfer case wouldnt even spin the front driveshaft, and you would have true 2wd. You could then engage front hubs when wanting TOD.
The only way to go- then factor in a S/C!
How would we go about getting some 5.38 gears, I'd be up for that?
-Dave
The VX already has low gearing - 4:33 ratio. I'm not so sure lower gearing - especially something as low as 5:38 - would be of that much benefit. 1/8 mile - probably, but not for the 1/4 mile. It may be of benefit - but probably not as much as lower gearing does in many other applications. To take adantage of a set of 5:38's - the engine must produce alot of hp at high rpm.
.
I think one of the reasons is that the VX engine appears to produce much of its power down low (at lower rpm) ..... unlike many other dohc engines. The power curve appears to be 'flat' - I suspect the maximum power achieved by the Isuzu 3.5 is at a relativley low rpm ........
.
This may also be one of the reason that many feel the VX is faster than the published figures .........
.
The camshaft profile may be one (primary) reason. Variable valve timing (ala Honda, Toyota, Nissan ?) would probably prove to be very beneifical for the 3.5. Still - I would bet the engineers were more than happy with the performance of the 3.5 given the intended application.
.
Again - this is just a theory - I have never been able to locate a chart with the horsepower and torque figures.
.
..... and speaking of gearing, I would prefer 4:10 gearing - over the OEM 4:33. The gearing is a tad low for my use. I never realized how fast I drive on the highway until I started driving the VX. I would not be surprised if the Trooper - especially the US spec Trooper - has higher gearing.
Well BOARZHEAD just snipped the TOD wire and he was definately pulling some better times than I was stock, so it must do something! I think I really need an intake! My 1/8 mile seems pretty solid, however after that theres not much there. I will hit up the track a lot early this year, unltil I get my lift and tires. I will hit a 14.9, hopefully in the next 2 weeks!Quote:
Originally posted by MrCrowley
Has anyone ever thought about running 5.38 gears in the VX? This would drop times dramatically for you 1/8 and 1/4 mile racers.
Also, the reason no one really sees an improvement with a disconnected TOD for mileage or acceleration times is because the front hubs are still connected no matter what you do.
I ran 16.49 totally stock last summer. I wish I had the funds for a super charger:mad:
how r u launching the car?
r u reving it in neutral and dropping it into drive?
holdin the brakes and holding the gas?
stomp the gas?
im plannin to go to infineon(sp?) raceway 2morow...sure could use some tips on how launch....
________
Grianxx live
2 foot driving one on the break and one on the gas, I could probably give it more gas off the start. I never look at what I rev it up to since I am looking at the lights of the tree, but I would guess I rev it to 2500-3000 rpm's then release the break and stomp the throttle as fast as possible. I keep it in 3rd gear but I think it shifts to 4th. BOARZHEAD said he had his in 3rd and it was redlining at the end. Mine is definately not redlining at the end, more like 3,000-3,500 rpm's. It has to be hitting O.D. Any way to fix this? I will try to get video from inside the car to see what it does, cus when I'm racing I'm not looking at that stuff.
???
.
3000 rpm at the end of the 1/4 mile ......... ???
.
I believe I'm somewhere around 3000 rpm at 75 mph ......
.
???
.
The reason I think the gearing will benefit- Quicker offline stomp Especially with TOD (this is why the WRX-STI kills off the line). 40 mph in 1st gear with stock gearing is way too high for launching. over the last half of the track you are in 3rd - being lower would accelerate a little better. Our trannies have "racing gears. Closer ratio for track style- not drag racing from a stop to 1/4 mile. No one else in the world does this hence no import has good drag strip gearing. around maybe once off the line, and then keep racing between say 30 to 110 mph. Another option would be to use a smaller diameter tire than needed for looks for a trial run. Like a 16" rim w/ wide performance car tires maybe 25" total diameter. This would equate to lower gearing. If someone could try it I would guarantee lower times.
The Trooper has identical gears although the old late '80's Trooper 2 boxy style had a wide tire option w/ 4.77 gears. Hard to find, and not compatible to our larger late model trooper components. Our front axle is the back of an old boxy trooper hence you can get a limited slip from an old trooper rear and put it in our front.
Yes ...I would like the idea of lower gears. Has anyone ever done a change over? Are they available?....this car IMO is not really very well geared for real hard core rock crawling and reverse backing down a really steep hill is awful!~Guys running those 33 inch O.D tires would greatly benefit from those axles
Also, I would advise against a limited slip differencial on the front axle...straight up and straight down conditions would be fine, but side hilling in icy, mud, snow conditions could get hairy to down right dangerous.